Help! Is this potassium deficiency?

whats your pot size?

how many gallons of water are u flushing each plant with?

are u using ph adjusted water to flush with ?

ive always read that flushing with a diluted fertilizer works better than straight water.. ive never understood that statement but those guys know way more than i do .

have u calibrated the ph pen to make sure its dead on coming from the factory?

was the water coming out of the pot at first piss yellow ? and then after u continued flushing did it become clearer ?
 
damn all that sounds good
try to hit it with 6.8 and see what the runoff is .
 
Just read on the biobizz page now.

How do you balance the PH/EC of Biobizz® soil/fertilizer?
With Biobizz® soil and liquid products, the EC and pH value do not need to be adjusted or balanced, as should when using a mineral medium. Biobizz® organic mediums and nutrients are not made of mineral salts but organic bound elements, which are not measurable. The medium has a natural pH form; this will keep the soil in balance by itself.

- See more at: pH/EC values » Biobizz

How can I influence the pH-value?
If the quality of the water differs too much from the standard pH value of 7.0-7.3, then you can use apple vinegar or citric acid to reduce the acidity of your water. Try to reach a value between 6.8 and 7.2. The best is to reduce the pH-value a little, until it reaches the correct level, and only then to add the Biobizz® nutrient.

- See more at: pH/EC values » Biobizz

How does the pH value of my soil influence the growth of plants?
The correct pH-value is very important for the optimal growth of the plant. The pH-value is the measure for the acid concentration or acid degree. The level of the acid degree defines the bacterial life and the metabolism of the plant. The most ideal pH-value for the soil where your plants are, is between 6.3 and 6.5. Biobizz® earth already possesses this pH value. That means that under normal circumstances, you do not have to adjust the pH value of your water. It is not the level of pH in the water, but the pH of the soil that determines your success. Just let the Biobizz® products do their job for you!

- See more at: Home - Biobizz

I dont use biobizz soil, but maybe ill just try to aim for 6.8. Another thing is that I use ph down containing phosphoric acid 81% do you guys think that may be doing some stuff with my organic nutrients?

My PH up contains Potassium hydroxide 50% I havent used that so far. May have to use it if my water should be 7 with nutrients in it.
 
The thing about measuring run off is the first reading will never be accurate due to the fact the excessive run off would of picked up extra minerals etc whilst flowing through the soil (leaching).

Other wise you would have pour a very large amount of PH corrected nutrient filled water through the pot to eventually get an accurate reading which in my eyes is a very wasteful use of resources...


So as mention above the soil PH value is the most important factor & NOT the PH of nutrient solution !

In all my years working in the horticultural trade i've never known anybody to PH correct water/nutrients too be used on plants grown in soil, how the hell do you think granule ferts work for example... i know i must use PH corrected water to make granule ferts work ? farmers and gardeners must be freaking out when it rains as its not PH corrected water... OMG

So ye it is just a fucked up misconception of PH corrected water/nutrients for soil based grows as it is really just the soil PH which is the real matter & ONLY PH corrected water/nutrients is used in hydro water based systems & inert growing mediums such as rockwool/perlite/clay pebbles/coco coir etc etc etc


PPM/EC it only mildly works with organic based ferts you not going to get a true reading when compared to mineral salt ferts where it is much more accurate... so its rather pointless with organic's.




I've never checked PH value of nutrient laced water for soil grows or PH corrected them and yes i did original start out using biobizz nutrients and soil by them, i still use biobizz soil but favour the HESI brand of nutrients these days !

Some old biobizz grows...

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fuzzy i have a question..
i quit using the ff granules because of the massive ph swing .

so your saying if i ph my nutes before the granules are added the swing wont matter?
 
fuzzy i have a question..
i quit using the ff granules because of the massive ph swing .

so your saying if i ph my nutes before the granules are added the swing wont matter?

I'm not sure on ff granules ? if you could give a brand name i could look into it...


How ever most bottled nutrients are mildly acidic or acidic in nature but i have come across soft, hard water & general liquid nutrients for use with such water types, i assume most are a general type for an average PH value of water !

If the ff granule stuff you used was time release basis...

(copy 'n' paste) Controlled release fertilisers: These are almost always granules of inorganic fertilizers coated with a porous material such as sulphur or synthetic resin. Water enters the granule and the fertilizers leach out into the surrounding soil. The warmer the soil, the faster the leaching; this corresponds to plant growth which is faster in warm weather. By varying the thickness of the coating granules can be designed to feed plants for different periods of time.

It is more likely the warmth of the soil which has created a greater release of nutrients causing leaf burn problems in the past for you coupled with very high NPK ratio, if you are growing indoors you going to have stable base temp of soil but when lights come on temp rise's & this may effect soil temp also...


I suspect i may be able find what temp these time release granules are most productive in their release of nutrients & that soil thermometers are also available... kind of getting technical now !

I'm sure 99% of people don't think about soil temp or how time release ferts work & more than likely not practical for indoors growing under lights !


So PH of water/nutrients will hardly effect the release ratio of time release granules as they don't work like that...



Now over feeding like every day or every other can cause PH imbalance & normally occurs around mid flowering due to increase of nutrients used... nutrients sit in the soil & a build up over time so a swing in PH may occur a a plant is only going to use what it needs.


On the other hand some brands of time release nutrients/granules claim that they are self buffering i guess that is PH ? under normal conditions !

But a mass release of nutrients from said granule due to optimal release conditions & what ever granule is made off ? could cause PH swings or release excessive nutrients to cause problems...


Some links worth a read :peace:

Fertilisers / RHS Gardening

PNT: SOIL pH AND THE AVAILABILITY OF PLANT NUTRIENTS Should explain soil PH well enough & that it is really not the PH corrected water/nutrients for soil grows.

A chart i like...

soil_ph_nutrient_availability.jpg
 
In all my years working in the horticultural trade i've never known anybody to PH correct water/nutrients too be used on plants grown in soil, how the hell do you think granule ferts work for example... i know i must use PH corrected water to make granule ferts work ? farmers and gardeners must be freaking out when it rains as its not PH corrected water... OMG

can you break this down,Ive never heard this.
 
can you break this down,Ive never heard this.

I was being sarcastic...


Since when did any farmer PH correct their water to irrigate a field or any other plant nursery for what ever plant do such ?


Growing in soil whether indoors or out doors is the same principle for soil PH & to make nutrients available & that is all !


The only thing different indoors is you are forcing plant to mature/grow quicker than out doors, hence you feed regular to support growth.
 
haha you got me fuzzy duck

Hehe, ye sorry about that !

Some general pointers/info for those who care to read....

But it proves a point that some may take what is written on forums as face value info... a wise man or some one who is prepared to be self educated on the matter will read between the lines & extract nuggets of information then conduct research of their own to make the ends all join up or at least begin to understand some principles of growing or related matters !

Research should not always be done on MJ forums as they are decades of inbreed misconceptions involved which some believe MJ growing is a science ? well it is NOT, it has been growing in dirt/soil for thousands of years & there are many institutes / professional bodies involved in agriculture/horticulture which all state correct PH of soil/compost is the key to optimal nutrient uptake.


The whole spoon fed recipe is for fail sauce confusion :high-five:

So ye do a little research & when ya think ya know some think about it do some more research a few months later to see if you find new info which you might find your self on a progressive learning curve, that being a good thing for the self educated man/women :Namaste:



Otherwise read my signature do your best to understand the words written & context of it... seek the truth, do some research, never take any bodies word as gospel in till such information feels right (understanding) in your own heart & mind :peace:
 
I get where your at fuzzy duck,
as a former farmer,I will attest to the read and discover principle,ive read some great ideas that have been bunk and some bunk ideas that have been great...
 
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