Help me help her

[HugePeckerhead]

So she's being grown in Fox Farm. Under LED 18/6. Lights 24 inches above. Water every 2 or 3 days. Feed once a week but add cal mag with watering and not feeding. Her leaves are a little yellow but my flash makes it worse. My main problem is the spotting and the slight yellowing. Magnesium deficiency I think? Strain is Bubblicious if that matters. Temps range 75-80f lights on and 70-75 off. I just topped 4 different areas a few days ago too.

 

[HugePeckerhead]

Also her nutes are Fox farm trio and I feed at recommended dosage.

 

[Woblaaaah]

Not sure man could possibly be leaf septoria... hope not tho

 

[Weaselcracker]

My first guess would be overwatering, as the main problem.

 

[HugePeckerhead]

My first guess would be overwatering, as the main problem.

I water with minimal runoff every 3rd day usually.

 

[HugePeckerhead]

I'll get better pics up today. She isn't as yellow as it seems. My.flash makes it.look a thousand times worse. It's the spots on leaves im concerned with. My flowering widows did this when I was vegging them until I upped their calmag. Once I added it to every feed and water the problem went away. I'm thinking possibly add it into the watering and feeds no

 

[Len Goodman]

So she's being grown in Fox Farm. Under LED 18/6. Lights 24 inches above. Water every 2 or 3 days. Feed once a week but add cal mag with watering and not feeding. Her leaves are a little yellow but my flash makes it worse. My main problem is the spotting and the slight yellowing. Magnesium deficiency I think? Strain is Bubblicious if that matters. Temps range 75-80f lights on and 70-75 off. I just topped 4 different areas a few days ago too.

Try letting the pot completely drie out then light feeding with pure water. Looks like too much potassium. The nitrogen appears to be locked out. Try lowering your fan speed it looks like some wind burn in there. Let it try to get it eating again.

 

[Len Goodman]

You don’t need to keep adding CA and Mg. It could causing you the problem. One is an essential, the other is a trace. The plant can only absorb so much of the trace.

 

[Weaselcracker]

CA and Mg.... One is an essential, the other is a trace.

With respect, this isn’t true. Calcium and magnesium are both very much macro elements. Mg is best kept in proportion at around half the level of Ca, but it is definitely not a trace element.

I’ve never had Calmag cause Ca deficiency like that and see no reason why it would. Calmag also contains a fair amount of N, which the plant is obviously not getting.

Depending on the soil, nutrients added, and water source, some people don’t need to add calmag. I suspect this isn’t one of those people - based on the look of the plant.

I would also look at watering practices and make sure the plant is being allowed to fully dry out between waterings, almost to the point of wilting. Watering every third day sounds like too often. It depends on your environment though- how fast it dries out. Overwatering wouldn’t cause the rust spots (calcium deficiency) but it could cause the yellowing.

Once that’s out of the way- I’d post my feeding schedule so people have some info to base guesses on.

 

[Greenlizard]

How about PH? What are you adjusting to when watering/feeding?

 

[Len Goodman]

You are right sir. But here I’m sure it’s your cal mag.

 

[Len Goodman]

You are right sir. But here I’m sure it’s your cal mag.

 

[Len Goodman]

It’s your calcium.

 

[Weaselcracker]

Yes I would think so too. Which is why I disagree with this advice.

You don’t need to keep adding CA and Mg

 

[Len Goodman]

Yes I would think so too. Which is why I disagree with this advice.

I don’t know what the potassium is like but if there is too much it will shut down the absobtion of others, making appear there is a deficiency.

 

[Len Goodman]

Yes I would think so too. Which is why I disagree with this advice.

Magnesium
Magnesium deficiency on crops like tomatoes can be induced by high levels of potassium uptake.
Calcium
Calcium deficiency, which shows as tip burn on lettuce and blossom end rot on tomatoes and peppers, is a calcium transport problem within the plant rather than a lack of calcium in the solution. It is induced by environmental conditions like high humidity, which restricts transpiration and calcium distribution.

 

[Len Goodman]

Rectify the possible causes: In potting mixes, when the pH is too low (less than 5), use magnesium containing calcium fertilizers. ... Too much magnesium inhibits the uptake of calcium, and the plant displays general symptoms of an excess of salts; stunted growth, and dark-colored vegetation.

 

[Len Goodman]

And my knowledge of nutrient uptake and the plant itself was derived from books and experiments. I have tortured these things with nutrients and recorded their reactions. I may get title if the nutrients wrong but I know what I read. And this is not to be rude, I learned to write in the military and it is direct writing. I cannot write a passive sentence to save my life. Let the pot dry, let the plant eat, water with only water and the plant will correct itself.

 

[Len Goodman]

And my knowledge of nutrient uptake and the plant itself was derived from books and experiments. I have tortured these things with nutrients and recorded their reactions. I may get title if the nutrients wrong but I know what I read. And this is not to be rude, I learned to write in the military and it is direct writing. I cannot write a passive sentence to save my life. Let the pot dry, let the plant eat, water with only water and the plant will correct itself.

Then check ph and only adjust PH after the new growth stops showing symptoms.

 

[HugePeckerhead]

My feeding schedule is the Fox Farm Trio. I use %50 of recommended dose once a week even though the schedule calls for 2 feeds. Sometimes I'll water past the 3rd day but usually 3-4 days is about right. I lift the pot to check. I'm getting ready to transplant into a 5 gal but waiting to get her healthy before the move.