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Help! New plants, leaves looks so Curl and Down? PH problem?


New Member

The left 2 plants are Regular Radom seeds form my friend form Europe, one on the back is G13 blueberry auto, on the right one is Dinafem white widow auto.

As you can see the all leaves going down, only the blueberry seems better。

Gears IN DOOR:

I use 600W MH light, 18/6, exhaust fan only works in the lighting hours, sure I will change it to 24 hours on when the plants get bigger.

There's 2 more things in my tent: a small fan blowing the plants all the time and there's a humidifier misting the water and let the mist blow by the fan to the plants, The humidifier only works in the lighting hours.

I live on the highland about 2800m, super dry here and The tempo indoor is like between 20C to 30C, but the night here is super cold maybe indoor tempo is like 12~15C.


I think water here is a problem, no tap water here, only well water, PH level is unstable, but always be alkaline like 8.5~9, I use Glacial acetic acid(Vinegar has about 3.5% Glacial acetic acid) to adjust the ph to about 6.5 before watering, but the problem is few days after the ph will back to original like 8.5 :tokin:


I use local red clay soil mixed with humus and perlite and a little bit slow release.

Everris Scotts Water Soluble 30-10-10 1000ppm (2gram mix 1litter)

this solution can help a little bit PH problem, when the 30-10-10 mix with water can bring PH a little down.

Wish someone can help. THANKS


New Member
By the way, this is my first time grow auto seeds, as you can see the blueberry and white widow already start flowering, is it normal or too early?


New Member
Not enough Perlite and sand? (Too much clay?). How fast does water drain?

I'm on my first grow and I've found quick drainage (more frequent wet/dry cycle) is better.

I also started with organic fertilizer and some time-release built into potting soil I mixed into Pro-Mix HP. But, I didn't feel I had control (understanding) of when nutrients reached the plants. Switched to GH Flora series (3 part) and use their 3-2-1 proportion (1/2 strength, but for your size plants 1/4 would be safer).

What is the ppm of your well water? If it's high, that could reduce the availability of nutes (leaves less headroom for nute PPM. Or, some high mineral content could lock out nutes.).

I also tried white vinegar to lower PH. Between that and my high-PPM tap water, and the organic nutes.... my plants didn't do well the first 2 weeks. Bought PH, PPM meters, PH up/down, Flora Series nutes, and switched to reverse osmosis water (PPM of about 10). Holy cow. Everything's growing like crazy now.

It's funny because, going into this, I was perplexed by PH, PPM, nutes, etc. I just wanted some easy middle ground. Water-absorbing soil, time-release nutes. Plant it and forget it. The idea of soilless and minute control of nutes made me nervous. But, now... my next grow will be Pro-Mix HP, follow the accepted 3-2-1 (1-2-3) nute schedule (or, the so-called "useless" schedule) and memorize the photos of plant stress/deficiencies. This seems a lot more do-able than lower-maintenance "set it and forget it" soils and nutes.

Also, I used dolomite (agricultural lime, fine ground, mixed 1 Tbsp to 1-1/2 Tbsp per gallon of soil). That seems to help stabilize PH of soil.
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