Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I agree with your LHS, they look hungry.
Help: Plant been sick for over a month
- Thread starter parrajara
- Start date
Reave
Well-Known Member
I think we all thought they looked hungry. 
- Thread starter
- #203
parrajara
Well-Known Member
Yes, and I really do appreciate everyone's insight! I didn't mean to ignore anyone... As an inexperienced grower, I just need to REALLY make sure. I will pay the mistake of lesser yields, but gain the knowledge for future grows. I am always afraid/considering the fact that the issue may not just be that they are hungry, but that it could be something else; like root issues, humidity, heat, light height, etc. So I played it safer this entire grow, starving my plants for a large part of it, until all other issues were out of consideration. Next grow, I will feedI think we all thought they looked hungry.
Good thing is I have been pretty consistent with my notes, only missed them a couple of times when life got very busy :/
So the VPD chart keeps you in the green zone, it changes between veg & flower cycles. Environment is critical. Personally I’m a cheapie because I can get with it but I don’t run dehumidifiers, ac unit or extraction fans for the indoor garden.
Nutes are different, but maybe when you settle back down try the Geoflora organic dry mix. I’m starting a LOS soil run but at the same time enjoying the simplicity of 1 shot nute - mega crop on a perlite hempy run, weigh it out, stir into hot water, mix your gallon and pour.... the plants coloring tells you if it’s good or wants more.
Nice job on seeking out this other grower that works at your local shop, yeah we’ve heard of that Gaia Green but I suspect not many here have run it.
Dude - she’s a gorgeous girl and she’s sucking N + chlorophyll and anything else she can get out of those fans. While you may not be impressed take heart she stored up her resources in those fans but now she needs them, you could probably throw the kitchen sink at her and she would gobble it down
Nutes are different, but maybe when you settle back down try the Geoflora organic dry mix. I’m starting a LOS soil run but at the same time enjoying the simplicity of 1 shot nute - mega crop on a perlite hempy run, weigh it out, stir into hot water, mix your gallon and pour.... the plants coloring tells you if it’s good or wants more.
Nice job on seeking out this other grower that works at your local shop, yeah we’ve heard of that Gaia Green but I suspect not many here have run it.
Dude - she’s a gorgeous girl and she’s sucking N + chlorophyll and anything else she can get out of those fans. While you may not be impressed take heart she stored up her resources in those fans but now she needs them, you could probably throw the kitchen sink at her and she would gobble it down
- Thread starter
- #205
parrajara
Well-Known Member
I will definitely keep Geoflora organic dry mix in my considerations for any future grows - whenever that may be. Thank you man!
I am running 2 oscillating fans and a 150 CFM (if I recall correctly) exhaust fan. My humidity wants to stay around 60% but I can manage to lower it around 50-55%... I don't want to risk any molding, and I also read lower RH (30%ish) may help with resin production in the last bit of flower. I also have ready some threads saying 70% RH is fine all throughout flower....
With the air exchange and ventilation in my grow tent, would 55% RH be detrimental? Should I get a small dehumidifier or it's not a huge deal? Last night I removed a fair amount of leaves from Cannabitch, and tonight I will do so for MJ.
This is what Canna looks like now.. it looks like I didn't take much off, but I was at it for 2 hours haha
Here is a little thing to think about 
Potassium is associated with the movement of water, nutrients and carbohydrates in plant tissue. It's involved with enzyme activation within the plant, which affects protein, starch and adenosine triphosphate (ATP) production. The production of ATP can regulate the rate of photosynthesis.
if you let your medium dry out too much potassium cant function proper , its job is to ship water and nutrients from the roots and to ship stored energy to flowers , every time you let your soil dry out you are actually starving your plant at a critical stage , all the potassium you are putting in becomes solids , then you can end up with excess potassium , if you have excess it can lock out potassium then you think you need to be putting more in but there is plenty there but unavailable because the medium is too dry ,
If you look at growers who do the too dry cycle in flower they will have (K) def , ive seen it loads , ive even seen it on plants belonging to people who think its a good idea to let these beautiful flowering plants dry out in flower , not pointing fingers but yes 70% of their own plants have a (K) def caused by over drying
, on your first plants , things can only get better for you , too much information can lead you astray . 
&
,
Next beans you pop tag me
Potassium is associated with the movement of water, nutrients and carbohydrates in plant tissue. It's involved with enzyme activation within the plant, which affects protein, starch and adenosine triphosphate (ATP) production. The production of ATP can regulate the rate of photosynthesis.
if you let your medium dry out too much potassium cant function proper , its job is to ship water and nutrients from the roots and to ship stored energy to flowers , every time you let your soil dry out you are actually starving your plant at a critical stage , all the potassium you are putting in becomes solids , then you can end up with excess potassium , if you have excess it can lock out potassium then you think you need to be putting more in but there is plenty there but unavailable because the medium is too dry ,
If you look at growers who do the too dry cycle in flower they will have (K) def , ive seen it loads , ive even seen it on plants belonging to people who think its a good idea to let these beautiful flowering plants dry out in flower , not pointing fingers but yes 70% of their own plants have a (K) def caused by over drying
, on your first plants , things can only get better for you , too much information can lead you astray . &,Next beans you pop tag me
- Thread starter
- #207
parrajara
Well-Known Member
Thanks Professor, appreciate the information. Will definitely tag you on my future grows!Here is a little thing to think about
Potassium is associated with the movement of water, nutrients and carbohydrates in plant tissue. It's involved with enzyme activation within the plant, which affects protein, starch and adenosine triphosphate (ATP) production. The production of ATP can regulate the rate of photosynthesis.
if you let your medium dry out too much potassium cant function proper , its job is to ship water and nutrients from the roots and to ship stored energy to flowers , every time you let your soil dry out you are actually starving your plant at a critical stage , all the potassium you are putting in becomes solids , then you can end up with excess potassium , if you have excess it can lock out potassium then you think you need to be putting more in but there is plenty there but unavailable because the medium is too dry ,
If you look at growers who do the too dry cycle in flower they will have (K) def , ive seen it loads , ive even seen it on plants belonging to people who think its a good idea to let these beautiful flowering plants dry out in flower , not pointing fingers but yes 70% of their own plants have a (K) def caused bu over drying
Next beans you pop tag me
At this point, since the roots are developed, I am no longer letting the soil dry out. I don't necessarily keep it wet at all times, but I am watering more frequently than I would have been in veg. I also know you're a huge advocate and fan of seaweed, so stay tuned for an update on how this worked out
Just be careful you do not over do it , I love seaweed but i do not use a lot , just at certain times for cell division in the branches and roots , think i use twice , when i top and then a few weeks later for root division , too much K can mess around with mag also , they bounce off each other , cal mag k and n i think from the top of my head , keep these in balance and you will do ok ,Thanks Professor, appreciate the information. Will definitely tag you on my future grows!
At this point, since the roots are developed, I am no longer letting the soil dry out. I don't necessarily keep it wet at all times, but I am watering more frequently than I would have been in veg. I also know you're a huge advocate and fan of seaweed, so stay tuned for an update on how this worked out
The key is keeping the medium from being to wet or being to dry , you want it like you just opened a fresh bag of potting soil , that kind of moist, no over or under watering , if you can find this balance your plants will do their own thing , they will thrive and the microbes will work for you to build your plant , if the medium keeps getting dry spells then your just starting then stopping , there is no real bond with nutes microbes roots and water , its all short lived
If you where to let a sponge dry, squeeze it out then pour water over it , the water just runs off , this happens in peat base potting soils , the cat ion exchange gets less and less until your water and everything just runs out the ass of the pot , the peat becomes hydrophobic and the medium holds no nutrients so the plant just starves even though it feels heavy the CIE is useless because the peat becomes hydrophobic its not holding on to the inputs that you put in ,
- Thread starter
- #209
parrajara
Well-Known Member
Got MJ under the microscope today. She's 1 week out from harvest, give or take
- Thread starter
- #211
- Thread starter
- #212
parrajara
Well-Known Member
What do you guys look at? The calyxes, the sugar leaves? I find some of my sugar leaves look like they're browning, but the buds look like they have so much left to grow. While some areas aren't cloudy yet, others are amber color. I dont want to lose potency, so im trying to get this right lol
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I watch the top most calyxes ... the leaves always turn before they do.
- Thread starter
- #214
parrajara
Well-Known Member
That is such a RELIEF to read. Thank you Emilya <3
- Thread starter
- #215
parrajara
Well-Known Member
I'm doing some research and it seems like it is viable to harvest the main colas but leave the small and medium buds growing for another week or two. Have you guys tried this? I was thinking of shocking my plant with ice cold water and 2 days of darkness before harvest, but if I can leave my smaller buds growing for longer - I'm curious how this would play out. Could I shock the plant, remove colas (further shocking it), and go back to 12/12 with the other buds? Or is the 2 days darkness and ice cold water bad idea if my plan is to continue flowering lower buds?
Hayron1088
Well-Known Member
I also am interested in knowing about harvesting large buds and letting the smaller buds go for a couple weeks.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I do a staggered harvest quite often if I see that the lights are not penetrating the canopy very well, and often times when I have a feminized plant that I want to get seeds from, I overgrow it by taking a harvest and saving one or two buds to grow for another month or two until they go to seed
- Thread starter
- #218
parrajara
Well-Known Member
That's great to know. What do you think about shocking the plant before harvesting the main colas? Would you suggest I save that for the second harvest? Not sure how the plant would react to 12/12 after 48 hours of darkness
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
At the end of the grow period the plant is dying, it is by definition in stress. A little more stress isn't going to hurt anything and there isn't enough time to have the plant do anything about it anyway. In the case of overgrowing the whole point is to stress the plant so that it grows seeds. Stress is very important in mid grow when you're trying to keep a plant from hermying, but at this point it's really not something I worry about.
- Thread starter
- #220
parrajara
Well-Known Member
Ok thank you Emilya. I had read myths, which although unproven I wanted to try, about more trichome and resin production when the two techniques I mentioned are implemented prior to harvest. That is why I wanted to give her that little extra stress. But I would rather get more out of all the smaller budsites that I have by doing a staggered harvest without any further tampering
Similar threads
