Hempy Smartpot GLH LED Grow, 2011 Bound

theroots

New Member
Light: 300w Grow LED Hydro light (paid full price!)

Grow Tent

Medium: 100% perlite Hempys and 1 gal rootpot hempys

Nutes: OC+ in some, hydro nutes in others

Strains:

4 unknown feminized seeds
2 Triesel (Strawberry Diesel x New York City Diesel Female x Alpha Diesel male)
3 UK Cheese x SuperSilverChemHaze

plus others to be updated. these are my most healthy plants; have others in the infirmary after a disastrous coco attempt. using 100% perlite as perlite kills those got-dang fungus gnats/winged root aphids.

Started in rapid rooters under cfls for the first 7-9 days. After sprouting put rr's into perlite hempy cups, after 9 days then put under the led light, 24/0 light.

a couple of plants have some nute burn, this is b/c I forgot which ones had oc+ at some point.

I have these rootpots sitting in plastic dishes. AKA smart pots? The big one in the milk jug is doing great in that situation.

ukc x ssch #3, 25 days from seed:

uk3.jpg


ukc x ssch #2 - berry, menthol smell
uk2.jpg


ukc x ssch #1 - sweet pine smell
uk1.jpg


these four are feminized beans I got from a random pack. Looks like a couple of different things are going on, got a nice bushy sativa-y girl in the mix.

22 days from seed:

Fem #1 - piney smell
fem19.jpg


Fem #2
fem29.jpg

fem2_top.jpg


Fem #3 - spicy, pepper, sweet smell
fem33.jpg


Fem #4
fem41.jpg


22 days from seed, too:

Triesel #1 - honey, pine smell
tree1.jpg


Triesel #2
tree2.jpg


Light:
tr_led.jpg


Group shot:
tr_groep.jpg
 
Plants look nice and healthy. I can't wait to see how this goes I'm using smartpots right now and was thinking about doing a hempy style next grow but I was going to use coco. Can I asked what happened to yours, was it the bugs or were there other problems as well. Oh yeah and by the way good luck
 
Plants look nice and healthy. I can't wait to see how this goes I'm using smartpots right now and was thinking about doing a hempy style next grow but I was going to use coco. Can I asked what happened to yours, was it the bugs or were there other problems as well. Oh yeah and by the way good luck

In my location, I cannot grow in coco. Went thru 2 batches of seeds before I was like fuck this, perlite all the way. I'm 99% sure it was bugs, fungus gnats or winged aphids, as after a bunch of research I nuked my remaining plants with Bayer Tree & Shrub and they are recovering.

I have one Chemdawg cross (very sativa) that has recovered 100%; it was the most vigorous bean I popped until then. I have two sour diesels that are 75% recovered, I hope the stress doesn't turn then male!

Since I apparently have a bug problem and dont want to have to use pesticides, I'm going 100% perlite. Funny thing, I never say anybody having the same problems as me when I was researching growing cannabis.

Have had ZERO problems since switching, other than with the big SKCxSSCH, which started to eat itself (yellow leaf tips). I was waiting for me new nutes to come in, it couldn't wait.

Good news: remaining plants are taking off. This is my first passive hydro, and I'm using new nutes:

Jack's Professional Hydro 5-12-26 + Calcium Nitrate

I am not using OC+ anymore; need to get one grow dialed in b4 I mess around with advanced grow methods. Jack's Pro is $20/5 lbs. That's a shitload of nutes, as:

1 tbsp each of Jack's + Calcnit gives my 5 gallons of nutes at around 2.0 ec.
 
12.26 update

Update: Transplanted remaining plants into 1-gal smart pots. Moved recovering plants into mini-hempys. Room is starting to smell skunky.

Found out I need to get bloom nutes; thinking about going with Jack's Blossom Booster 10-30-20, 1/4 strength dose added to current nutes.

Here are 4 sour diesel seedlings popped about a week ago. Interesting how I definitely seem to have two phenos - one very sativa, the other bushy. These are growing vigorously in mini-hempys, feeding 1/2 strength nutes:

12_27diesel.jpg


May have to toss UK #3, the big one - it started eating itself b/c it was confused by its nute problem, I think. Its in the back row, 3rd from left.

row 1(back row):
f4, uk2, uk3, t2
row 2:
f2, uk1, f3, t1
row 3:
MOD #2, F1, Chemdawg BX2, MOD #1

12_26update.jpg
 
Day 34 from seed - update

Thanks and welcome to my grow guys, I think I've finally I've moved past the killing plants stage to the growing plants stage!

Wingman - Spark that 'ish and enjoy... I've never had any sour, none whatsoever in my entire 40+ years on this earth... hopefully in a few months I'll be able to spark some sour of my own and see what the fuss is all about! lol

Regarding the Sour Diesels above; They are from Denmark! ZenSeeds Sour Diesel, ECSD cut x the (Notorious) American Sour Diesel IBL. Under 2 Jacksons for a pack. Mods, let me know if this violates the TOS.

Putting in an order for more 1-gallon aurora root pots; I got a bunch of 2-gallons that are gonna be way too big for this grow.

I also should probably invest in another grow tent for veg. Was thinking about getting a T-5 'Badboy' setup but I have excellent results from my 5600k compact cfls, which are waaay less expensive.

Regarding the LEDs, I amazed at how little stretch and how bushy my plants are. This will be interesting to see if the sour diesels stretch.

Plant report:

- t2 has recovered from overwatering
- chemdawg does not like cold temps
- plants in row #2 are exploding
- MOD #2 looks to have completely recovered. The is Mists of Destruction Menage a Trois.
- 2 sour diesels are 90% recovered. When transplanting, found strong healthy white roots coming from the rapid rooters. Trimmed most of the remaining root ball, which weren't white or healthy at all. These two diesels are the last of my coco plants.

mg545df-34days.jpg



- Wingman - as a moderator, I would like to let you know the tutorial posts, particularlay recently in the 'budding cycle' forum are great go-to helpers. With so much information its very handy to have the basics on hand.

I LOVE THE SMELL OF CANNABIS GROWING! :Rasta: :blunt:

p.s. note about fem#4: shortly after it sprouted I attempted to remove the attached seed hull. Instead of doing that, I ended up cutting off most of the seedling's head, little leaves (petioles?) and all. As u can see in the pics, it made a full recovery!:yummy:
 
First female preflowers!!!

Finally, Got a Girl! :blunt:

My Mists of Destruction (defunct breeder) Menage a Trois #2 has girl flowers! This is one of the survivors of my last coco attempt. It is bushy and indica-like, smells of strong bubblegum! here is it's description:

Breeder: Mist of Destruction Menage a Trois
A table of my supreme Dreamweaver goddesses were pollinated with 2 Godbud fathers but were also accidentally pollinated with one of my Arjans Haze x Cinnamon fathers from another breeding area. This accident, like a split condom, has produced these seeds which have been tested and found to have some very nice pure indica phenos; as they say, variety is the spice of life, so expect a few quality variations from Godbud x Dreamweaver = Dream Goddess and Arjans x Cinnamon x Dreamweaver.

Often I find that stellar plants can come forth from the odd accident. Dream Goddess is indica dominant and will need a longer time during the vegetative state of growth to maximize it's full potential. Dream Goddess is not prone to stretch much during the early weeks of the flowering period so for great yields and a bountiful harvest. It is recommended that you change the photoperiod for flowering as late as possible. Good results are seen after flowering late.

As is the case with most indica dominant/broader leaved plants, they will want to feed well so it is advised to be very liberal with the nutrition of the plant whether you are growing organically or hydroponically. It feeds well, and the results will produce large buds with a heavy resin coating. An accident or a blessing, that is the question; and my answer to it is that I have been surely blessed. After growing out these seeds I found some distinct variation in the indica/sativa mix. Some of them may be considered ugly plants but when grown the high was supreme from all of the examples grown. Ugly best describes these plants of an sativa and indica mix.

I might say from my experience that the high is unique over anything else I have tried. Expect many phenotypical variations centering around the haze side and also others that may look more like pure indicas showing a broad spectrum of examples of prime cannabis. From the outset it will be obvious that some will exhibit totally indica dominant traits and on the other hand many will show their true sativa lineage. Broader leafed indica dominant plants should be in the vegetative stage longer than the sativa dominant plants for maximum effect and yields.

Mostly Indica Veg time 3-4 weeks 55-60 days Flower Time


1231_mod_flwer.jpg


This girl has had 4 weeks of veg so far. She may get more as I need to get another tent or make a veg cabinet before I switch the LED tent into flower. Can I get a confirmation on those preflowers? :slide:

Moved my 4 Sour Diesel seedlings into the LED tent.
 
Even if they are male don't kill them. What I wouldn't do for a good male to use for breeding projects. You should grow out @ least one male and keep it segregated. The only thing I can get around here is clones...which is great. I have grown so many strains out and gotten some good strains and some god awful strains but the point is is growing female plants only is limiting. That is why I ordered a bunch of REGULAR seeds from Single Seed Center. I'm almost gunning for a male to @ least have some pollen to save. If worse comes to worse you could always isolate the males in breeding chambers but that wouldn't be too easy with a grow tent I suppose. I was thinking of adding a Sun Hut XL for a spare bedroom. The last grow and this current grow I am using 3 gallon Smart Pots and Roots Pots also with FFoF. I think next time I might go hempy because the fungus gnats are a real pain in the butt. Least they let me know when i'm watering too much though. I want to start a journal of my own but me thinks I will wait a while. a Journal with a picture of 3 Dixie Cups with plants less than a week old is not too exciting. My veg room on the other hand is looking amazing. Hash plant...Metal Haze...Warlock...oh my...I cannot wait to get that hash plant under 12/12. Let the stretching begin! To keep the stretching to a minimum what I do is when I put them under 12/12 I keep them under the MH 1000 for 2 weeks. I did it last time and it kept them from stretching too bad. Never grown with LED though. The results look fantastic. Like growing with a LIGHT BRIGHT....LOL
 
Oh BTW if fungus gnats or maggots are a problem in your hydroponics add some AZAMAX to your reservoir and some sensiZym or HygroZym. I know you're not running hydro but it works with soil too. You mentioned fungus gnats. In my res I always add Nutes, AzaMax, SensiZym (or HygroZyme if they don't have it) and this new stuff called BUSHDOCTOR KANGAROOTS which has all kinds of beneficial fungii and Mycorrhizae that colonize the roots and form a symbiotic relationship with the plant roots. In nature, soil is a lot more bioactive. Indoors soil is somewhat sterile. When I use these products my roots get so thick and white it looks like Santas Beard...and more root=more fruit. I am flowering some Carnival right now using Advance Nutrients CONNOISSEUR 2 part ultra premium bloom fertilizer and I am very impressed. I grew some Purple Urkle in a water farm with this system and the buds are huge, fragrant, dense and purple. This stuff beats Flora Nova or any of the Gen Hydro nutrients hands down. AN CONNOISSEUR, SensiZym, Tarantula, VooDoo juice, and Piranhan FTW!!! That's how I'm going with my hempies in 2011...forget OSMOCOTE. that's for broke stoners and house wives growing flowers. Also, you have no control over how much fertilizer is leeching out with OC+. It is cheap but stay away. It is not going to give you good tasting ganja.
 
Hey Growing247,

Awesome advice! I think hempy is technically a form of hydro, I was wondering if there was a fungus product that works in hempy/hydro.

Will look up AzaMax, SensiZym (or HygroZyme if they don't have it) and BUSHDOCTOR KANGAROOTS.

Good idea to save a male - free seeds, plus if my Triesel in the hempy bucket turns out to be male, I should save it as its an awesome-looking plant, with good genetic background (Strawberry D, Alpha D, etc).

Perhaps I could keep him as a bonsai male? Heard plenty about bonsai fems but not boys!

I am going to attempt my first round of cloning, starting with the MOD #2. I am excited about this one as its leaves have a strong bubblegum smell when rubbed. Also, all three girls are very bushy and can use thinning out as it is.

The MOD #2 was a survivor of the coco attempt. Its come back fantastic!

Next I'll have to figure out the bloom nutes. I want to do it with regular non-canna ferts; got the veg nuts down (Jack's Pro), however Jack's isn't a bloom fert, however there's Jacks Bloom Booster 1-3-2, just got to figure out the ratios.

Edit: I have room to splurge for one of the boosters you mentioned, just want to keep my main nutes cheap/non-canna for the cheap DIY-er in me :p The bushdoctor is $17.95/QT at my fave store, that's not too bad... will check out those others too!
 
AZAMAX is made by ADVANCE NUTRIENTS and is meant to be used as a folier spray and also meant to be put into your hydroponic reservoir or as a root drench in hempies/soil. I use it specifically for fungus gnats because without it they multiply and lay maggots in the root ball and the maggots eat the roots...this is a VERY BAD THING. I use the second highest concentration. It is OMRI listed and vegetable based. One of the least damaging thing you could use on your plants in terms of pesticides. it also works for other pests but I mainly use AzaMax for Fungus Gnats and Hot Shot No Pest Strips for mites. As far as harvesting the males what I would do is grow them segregated then harvest the male pollen sacks and place them in a plastic bag. Use a small paintbrush to apply pollen to a bud you want to seed and cover the bud with a plastic bag and a rubber band to keep pollen from spreading. You never know, could come up with something really good. As far as nutrients go I use Advance Nutrients premium fertilizer called Connoisseur and it kicks ass. The yields are huge and the plants are covered in sugar but it costs a pretty penny. It would be good for hydro and DWC if you get into that all you need is a 5 gallon bucket, an airstone and a netpot and its a lot easier to get bigger roots with the 5 gallon bucket as opposed to the hempies.
 
Hey Growing247 I was interested in your thoughts on OC+ or any other CRF/TRF for that matter. You mention that it will make you plants taste like crap..is this from experience?

I ask because there are currently a bunch of people on 420 trying these nutes, myself included. I am looking to harvest in a week or so, so I will have my own opinion on them shortly.

I have heard mixed reviews so I am curious to yours. Doc claims his OC plants don't burn black and taste fine..Irish has experienced some black burning bowls.


:peacetwo:

Marley
 
Hey Growing247 I was interested in your thoughts on OC+ or any other CRF/TRF for that matter. You mention that it will make you plants taste like crap..is this from experience?

I ask because there are currently a bunch of people on 420 trying these nutes, myself included. I am looking to harvest in a week or so, so I will have my own opinion on them shortly.

I have heard mixed reviews so I am curious to yours. Doc claims his OC plants don't burn black and taste fine..Irish has experienced some black burning bowls.


:peacetwo:

Marley

The problem with Osmocote is when you use it you lose all control over how much fertilizer is being delivered to your plants. It could build up and build up to higher toxic concentrations and you would have no idea because it is a time release fertilizer. With so many good, cheap ORGANIC fertilizers out there why Osmocote? When you go to flush you will not be able to flush properly because of the time release nature of the product. The weed will most certainly have a harsh mouth numbing taste to it. Osmocote is used for people who have large indoor container plants (not marijuana) that they feed once a year, water, and forget. I would not use this product for growing marijuana because there is so much stuff out there that will give you better control as well as yields.....

My fellow growers, If you don't know what TLO stands for in the title it stands for TRUE LIVING ORGANICS, and is a style of all natural growing that I use that results in the best quality of smoke that can be had in my opinion. :bongrip: TLO growing is mostly a bottle-free style of growing, and what I mean by that is the plants are grown using a soil-mix, some organic teas, and just-add-water. I am going to babble today about the statement you may have heard a lot, maybe even repeated, yet haven't really understood yourself and the statement is " FEDD THE SOIL NOT THE PLANT!" Lucky for you, TLO growing is all about feeding the soil, so I think I can help you to understand what that really means. Smoke some stellar SATIVA if you got any so you will remember all this heh heh, and let's get rolling....


SYNTHETIC VS. ORGANIC TLO

Here's the thing, there's no comparison period and if anyone thinks there is they have never smoked all natural organically grown herbs; in my opinion. Please get a CLUE what synthetic fertilizers are derived from. It's the synthetic salts in those fertilizers that are different because nitrogen is nitrogen, and phosphorous is phos., whether it's organic or a synthetic fertilizer the nutrient elements are exactly the same.

In the all NATURAL WORLD plants in Mother Nature's world use their relationship with the microbial life in the soil to GET AND ABSORB THEIR NUTRIENTS. MAny fertilizer companies who make liquid organic nutrients use synthetic salts to "force feed" (chelate) nutrients to the plants. and those that make synthetic nutrients use synthetic salts made from things like formaldehyde and cyanide, to "force feed" (chelate) nutrients to the plants, and as you can imagine these salts are ALSO ABSORBED INTO THE PLANT. So, since they don't break down they are smoked by you and your friends, great right? :lot-o-toke: And if you use synthetics on your tomatos you are also eating it. Think about that. To keep it short there are a few organic nutrients out there I will share with you, and tell you WHY IT MATTERS!! :thumb:

Growing using TLO approach I often refer to as just add water growing style, because it is for the most part. The reason why you can just add water in TLO growing is because the plants' roots have formed a symbiotic (mutually beneficial to the plant roots and micro-beasties) relationship with the microbial life in the LIVING SOIL MIX. Your job as the TLO grower is to simply not piss off or kill off the microbes in the soil.:ganjamon: Feed those micro farmers and treat them like you would treat an aquarium full of fish. take care of them, and their environment, so it is a friendly place for them to live. Feed them too much nitrate levels will rise. Even a slight tweak in pH in mild nutrient solution could really piss off your microbe colonies. Microbes can come back after most problems, as long as the problem wasn't adding synthetic nutrients, because the kind of soil-mix damage is close to permanent. If for some reason you do kill a large number of your microbes it takes about ten days for them to come back to normal numbers.

What I try to do is beef up the soil before I plant and therefore do not have to add little if any fertilizer throughout the 3 month flowering stage.Using organic bottle (liquid) nutrients, which are heavily chelated with organic acids, is actually quite counterproductive to TLO growing principles. What you want in TLO is for micro-life in the container soil-mix to create the organic acids, at the LEVELS THE PLANTS REQUESTS, and delivering the nutrients as she needs/wants them. As opposed to you, the human, or a nutrient company, deciding which levels to force feed her which nutrients, and at what ratios, and when. You dig? The plant knows best mygreen amigos. plants have been doing this for a loooong time here on EARTH, way before we got here, so I tend to go with their choices and decisions on these things. IF YOU TAKE THE LEAP AND TRULY GO TLO, YOU WILL SEE WHY I CALL IT SUPERNATURAL SMOKE! IT TULY IS; AND WHAT IS COOLER THAN JUST ADD WATER GROWING STYLE?


THE LIGHTNING ROUNG - WHAT TO FEED TLO PLANTS

Organic matter is what feeding the soil (microbes) is allabout and why I am such a huge fan of the liquid bloom nutrient, FOX FARM BIG BLOOM. Low NPK numbersand the liquid is full of particles of organic matter to easily verifiable by looking at it. Big Bloom is also very microlife friendly and free from any large amounts of organic acids for chelating the nutrients; just tons of nutrient rich organic matter to feed the soil with.

Large NPK numbers or high ratios of chelating organic acids,like humic acid, fulvic acid, and citric acids, is actually counterproductive to feeding the soil. You stun, cause to go dormant, and or kill large numbers of microbial population when you douse your soil mix with these type of nutrients. I use Big Bloom either in an organic tea (bubble with an air stone and worm castings) or in place of an organic tea every 10 days into flowering. Fry organic matter (nutrients) is where its at with TLO. Custom soil mixxes are the way TLO works best and recipes are all over the place online.

TIP: IF YOU CANNOT GET FOX FARM BIG BLOOM WHERE YOU ARE YOU CAN TRY SUBSTITUTING ANY LIQUID BLOOM NUTRIENT DERIVED FROM THINGS LIKE KELP, EARTH WORM CASTINGS, AND GUANOS. MAKE SURE THE NPK NUMBERS ARE LOW ALSO...

1. ROOTS ORGANICS EXTREME SERENE

2. FOX FARM BIG BLOOM (PREFERRED)

3. ORGANIC FISH EMULSIONS

There are many other TLO friendly liquids out there, like some of the Roots ORganics line (which I have come to really like in recent months as their product line has increased in quality and price). I also love my organic fish emulsion which is great for teas in vegging especially the plants love it.

* 1.
 
The problem with Osmocote is when you use it you lose all control over how much fertilizer is being delivered to your plants. It could build up and build up to higher toxic concentrations and you would have no idea because it is a time release fertilizer. With so many good, cheap ORGANIC fertilizers out there why Osmocote? When you go to flush you will not be able to flush properly because of the time release nature of the product. The weed will most certainly have a harsh mouth numbing taste to it. Osmocote is used for people who have large indoor container plants (not marijuana) that they feed once a year, water, and forget. I would not use this product for growing marijuana because there is so much stuff out there that will give you better control as well as yields.....

I don't mean to harp on this, and keep in mind I am not sold at all on ANYTHING currently..

I asked if your opinion on the product is based on experience, or just your own thoughts and ideas of how things 'should' go based on rationalization. I get the impression you have never used the product on marijuana before.

I don't feel it is a good idea to spread possible misinformation on anything without some sort of tangible experience. As I said in my previous post, people have had success with OC+..namely DocBud as he has completed several grows with it. I would suggest checking out his journals to see what I mean by success.

Again, I am not sold on OC+ or any other CRF/TRF for that matter. I will be able to make my own conclusions very soon and am going to happily share my results with the community to let them decide on their own.

One thing I currently do know is that I grew some very healthy looking plants with about .25c worth of macro nutes. Whether or not they burn correctly is yet to be determined. For the sake of ease and price CRF/TRF's cannot be beat, this obviously becomes irrelevant if the product is less than satisfactory.


:peace:

Marley
 
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