Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
- Thread starter Doc Bud
- Start date
Great morning to ya Seedling and ya'l!
PCaddict
Member
Good morning Duggan and all the other fine folks here
- Thread starter
- #24,744
A fine Saturday mornin' to ya!
Hey u guys..top of the day to ya'l. Just gettin ready for a mid day hockey game. Boy wants to see if he can keep his goal streak alive... 
....Me too...
. Oldest is LifeGuarding /teaching today..
Plants are/have been in 'bootcamp' , and will stay there a while. After topping , about week to ten days after , thats when things start to get fun. I always try and train to get the lowest grow tip/nodes to 'catch up' with the top two/four. A bush affect starts to take shape. This is when the time /effort needs to happen. Seedlings present garden is a perfect example of this, LSTing for a flattish , even canopy. It doesn't happen naturally, we have to manipulate it such. I've found growing in our confined spaces , it's simply the most effective method of cultivation.
Cheers Doc, PC and many friends..
....Me too.... Oldest is LifeGuarding /teaching today..Plants are/have been in 'bootcamp' , and will stay there a while. After topping , about week to ten days after , thats when things start to get fun. I always try and train to get the lowest grow tip/nodes to 'catch up' with the top two/four. A bush affect starts to take shape. This is when the time /effort needs to happen. Seedlings present garden is a perfect example of this, LSTing for a flattish , even canopy. It doesn't happen naturally, we have to manipulate it such. I've found growing in our confined spaces , it's simply the most effective method of cultivation.
Cheers Doc, PC and many friends..
Highpotanoose
Well-Known Member
Morning everyone
Please excuse the stress/brix covered walls my plants only come out when they finish
Hope all is well with everyone
Looking for some advice to fight spider mites late in flower.
The pics above are zkittles in DBHBB 7 gallon pots they have mites.
I rotate weekly between Leaf Wash,Neem,SNS and Azamax in Veg then use leaf wash for 2 weeks into flower
The plant above is 3 weeks post flip
It will be getting pulled this weekend or first of next week it’s not covered but definitely has some mite damage.
I have read a 1 part alcohol-1 part water, also dawn dish soap, will kill them (I don’t think a nuke will kill them) leary of spraying anything other than stress/brix after the buds form.
I have taken a sponge brush and hit the fans with some leaf wash and sns,but in my situation it is hard to pull plants out and do this I am usually working over others and then I break limbs.
I can’t seem to keep ladybugs alive I have made the a home but they eventually die off and then I clean ladybug carcasses up for months
I am just trying to keep the ladies happy as can be to get the most out of them
Any success stories to keep my hope alive is welcome also.
Thanks for taking the time to read all that
open to any and all suggestions
My friends
Morglie
Well-Known Member
If you have a sprayer that can put out a powerful burst, you can blast the plants every few days with a weak (1/4 strength) destress.
Morning everyone
Please excuse the stress/brix covered walls my plants only come out when they finish
Hope all is well with everyone
Looking for some advice to fight spider mites late in flower.
The pics above are zkittles in DBHBB 7 gallon pots they have mites.
I rotate weekly between Leaf Wash,Neem,SNS and Azamax in Veg then use leaf wash for 2 weeks into flower
The plant above is 3 weeks post flip
It will be getting pulled this weekend or first of next week it’s not covered but definitely has some mite damage.
I have read a 1 part alcohol-1 part water, also dawn dish soap, will kill them (I don’t think a nuke will kill them) leary of spraying anything other than stress/brix after the buds form.
I have taken a sponge brush and hit the fans with some leaf wash and sns,but in my situation it is hard to pull plants out and do this I am usually working over others and then I break limbs.
I can’t seem to keep ladybugs alive I have made the a home but they eventually die off and then I clean ladybug carcasses up for months
I am just trying to keep the ladies happy as can be to get the most out of them
Any success stories to keep my hope alive is welcome also.
Thanks for taking the time to read all that
open to any and all suggestions
✌❤ My friends
You want to avoid leaf wash in later flower due to the oils in the foliar breaking down resin. Spinosad based sprays seem to do ok in late flower. Make sure you have plenty of airflow or you'll risk PM.
Highpotanoose
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your reply I use the same one as doc
And I have tried the 1/4 strength stress routine I end up with the same end result they are there and on fans here and there
I am going to try dawn mixed with the 1-1 alcohol-h2o and hit them hard in veg plus reg routine of the 4 types mentioned above see if I can lower those numbers so reproduction is a little slower
I know I will never be rid of them completely but I’d like to see less damage at the end
Morglie
Well-Known Member
I use a regular spray bottle, like what you'd get bathroom cleaner or something like that in. And put it on the cone spray setting and just really squeeze the handle hard to get a lot of pressure. A note, I get extras from work that are new. I'd be wary of using a bottle that had cleaner in it.
They can be beaten. Even in a perpetual. I hit all my plants that were in veg and flower (pre-cats) with leaf wash twice a week, and everything cats and past with a spinosad based spray.
Once you don't see anymore signs. (A month or so), back down to once a week for a month, then back down further to once a month. You'll want to maintain the once a month for a while. I think I did about 6 months like that. Now I hit it about every 2-3 months, to be on the safe side. I haven't seen anything for almost two years now in that manner.
They can be frustrating, but you just need to stay diligent. The two pronged approach is the way to go. If you don't treat the ones in late flower, you won't ever break the cycle and fully eliminate them.
Blazinjones
Well-Known Member
Lmao oh yeah duh i totally spaced ur up there
. Well yeah mine wasnt to bad besides havn to deal with the family it was ok 
.So i was wondering about what is the best soil people have noticed to use with docs kit. I no on his site he says to use sunshine mix #4 or PM HP. Well im using sunshin #4 and i remember doc or sum1 saying wen i askd y my plants were burning up an havn issues that it was looking like i had to much organic matter in there. So i was wondering if its cause of the soil having tons of wood chunks and slices in it like this or is that not it?
Either way im trying to find out the absolute best soil to use lol or if this is normal for sunshine #4?
- Thread starter
- #24,751
- Thread starter
- #24,752
Lmao oh yeah duh i totally spaced ur up there
So i was wondering about what is the best soil people have noticed to use with docs kit. I no on his site he says to use sunshine mix #4 or PM HP. Well im using sunshin #4 and i remember doc or sum1 saying wen i askd y my plants were burning up an havn issues that it was looking like i had to much organic matter in there. So i was wondering if its cause of the soil having tons of wood chunks and slices in it like this or is that not it?
Either way im trying to find out the absolute best soil to use lol or if this is normal for sunshine #4?
I much prefer Promix......Sunshine will work, but it's not best.
The alcohol will kill your micro herd.
Questions for Auto growers:
Is it preferred to start seeds in final pots? I read that was the case because once roots hit the pot the plant starts flowering. Delay flowering and get a bigger plant/yield....?
If just growing autos, what is preferred light cycle? Thinking something like 14/10...?
If you have plants in different light cycles, I.e. autos mixed in with photos, do the autos need to stay on same light cycle throughout the grow?
Can you successfully grow autos in a window with little to no supplemental light?
Got a boat load of snow. Lucked into a new plow guy today. 20 bones a plow, well worth it!
Is it preferred to start seeds in final pots? I read that was the case because once roots hit the pot the plant starts flowering. Delay flowering and get a bigger plant/yield....?
If just growing autos, what is preferred light cycle? Thinking something like 14/10...?
If you have plants in different light cycles, I.e. autos mixed in with photos, do the autos need to stay on same light cycle throughout the grow?
Can you successfully grow autos in a window with little to no supplemental light?
Got a boat load of snow. Lucked into a new plow guy today. 20 bones a plow, well worth it!
Ween.....treat those things like any other plant....no different.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Highpotanoose
Well-Known Member
Check that Doc will not do that I will continue the fight with the same routine just more frequently
Morglie
Well-Known Member
You don't need to worry about the light cycle at all, beyond the fact that you should get better yields with longer light in general.
Good score on the snow removal. I bet you'll need it this year.
That old piece of ‘broscience’ has been well debunked
- by many including some folks here on 420. They Flower whenever, sometimes, early sometimes late. Mostly genetic, sometimes environmental. Folks here have done many grows disproving the root-restriction-triggers flower theory.These days the prevailing thought about the starting in the finish pot is because they have such a tight and unknown/unpredictable schedule that folks like to impose no changes so the plant doesn’t ever have to adapt. I’d imagine with excellent transplanting practices this might not be an issue. But I don’t have the space to experiment with that. Many folks have done it.
I wouldn’t advise that. Unless you like SPOGs
^^^
For the most part. Newty once had a DDA that was not pleasing her in veg - it got moved to the flowering tent and took off. Stoney grows his DDAs in his flowering tent. So it can vary. Seasoned auto growers say as much light as possible tho, like morgs said.
Skybound
Well-Known Member
That old piece of ‘broscience’ has been well debunked
These days the prevailing thought about the starting in the finish pot is because they have such a tight and unknown/unpredictable schedule that folks like to impose no changes so the plant doesn’t ever have to adapt. I’d imagine with excellent transplanting practices this might not be an issue. But I don’t have the space to experiment with that. Many folks have done it.
I wouldn’t advise that. Unless you like SPOGs
^^^
For the most part. Newty once had a DDA that was not pleasing her in veg - it got moved to the flowering tent and took off. Stoney grows his DDAs in his flowering tent. So it can vary. Seasoned auto growers say as much light as possible tho, like morgs said.
If starting in the final pot, would it then be wise to mix in or scratch in Roots powder or is it literally only used when potting up?
PCaddict
Member
I have wondered about that too Sky
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