How can I tell if my seedling is male or female without flowering it?

i heard from a botanist that you can get a ruff estimate of the sex by the distance between the leaves like a male it would be a longer area between them and a female would be grouped closer together is that true?

nah... my general rule of thumb has been force them to find sex
I personally cannot see how measuring would be accurate all the time

clones kick arse !
 
I agree only way to tell is flower or veg long enough for pre flowers...as this "distance" method would be very inaccurate considering different strains and phenos
 
I'm not trying to bust anybodies balls but I say we need some better pics to identify these sneaky plants a little sooner. I mean I see a lot of talking but little pictures. I don't know about anybody else on hear but I'm more of a visual person so more pictures would greatly help this thread.
 
Yeah your plant will show its sex before you have to flower it.. So you dont have to go that far.
I dont know if its just dumb luck, but in 16 yr of growing, ive only ever raised ONE MALE?? True...
I select my seeds i grow, i look for certain charactristics of the seed, now i know its not an exact science, but well i have a 99% strike rate thus far.. As most growers will know the difference between a pollinated seed, or an immature seed, and even certain strains due too the patterns on the seed itself.. It doesnt help you much as i cant look over your seeds an say i think theyre good to go!!..
 
At some point we have all come up with a way to sex the plants early and reliably. There must be something that we are missing or some trait that all females show early on that we are missing. This is a huge issue for growers, especially stealth grows where you only haven a few plants. I've heard things like leaf spacing, plant height, node spacing, and other stuff. Has there been any research done in any of those areas? Someone with a big grow could do some tests. Imagine being able sex the plants after a week or two.... No more screwing around with clones, switching from flower back to veg, overpaying for fem seeds, etc, etc. :)
 
You can cover a top with a black garbage bag, be sure to poke a few needle holes in the bottom for it can breath. Cover just that one future budsite for 12 hours. Take it off for 12 hours. Be sure the 12 hours it off, it has light. Do this for a few days to see how it flowers. If it is female, then throw it into 12/12 and let the rest of the bud sites catch up.

If male, destroy it, or do what you do with your males.
 
Or just look at the thousands already dowloaded and online already! GEEEEESH!!!! Let someone else do all the work!

For new growers it is easy to find pics of female and male plants all over the place. However, I have not found a pic from an experienced grower such as yourself that has an explanation of what to look for (with arrows or a finger pointing) concerning a plant that is only 3 or 4 weeks old and not being pushed into flowering stage but showing signs of its sex.

Yes I can try cloning and wait but I just inherited 6 plants here in Colorado,:Namaste:, NOT from a licensed grow house that are 3 weeks old and it would be great if I could learn this info. I live on a tight budget and would rather not waste energy like giant oil corps do. Every watt I count and every penny is saved. I am new but have read and researched Jorge Cervantes books and seen many videos on youtube. No one is explaining what you are saying with pics or vids to go with.

Luvtogrow: Would you please consider providing some pics or vids with explanation and share your knowledge with the community? I and everyone else I am sure would be very appreciative for your efforts and time.

Thank you for reading my post.:thumb: BTW yes I voted for Amendment 64 :high-five:
 
I grow outside, guerrilla grow every summer. I germinate seeds in January. I put all my seeds in solo cups with pro mix. After they veg for two weeks I put them under 12/12 HPS. It takes about two or three weeks to sex. After they show sex I put them back in veg 18/6. In April I put two foot females in the ground also using pro mix and mycorrhizae. Since I guerrilla grow I also use terra sorb. Terra sorb is basically water crystals with different kinds of mycorrhizae. I only water them if it hasn't rained in two weeks. I used stored rain water. This has always worked for me. I never have problems with males. I do get a few hermied seed. I only had four hermied seeds out of six pounds.
 
After the plants are at least eight weeks old look closely at the junction where the main stem meets with the leaf stalks and branches using a magnifying glass about two or three or three nodes below the plants top neat the base of the main stems leaf stalks and just behind the leaf spurs (stipules) you might see a rudimentary flower( preflower) in the best of cases you'll see a single well formed female flower with the familiar two white stigmas raised in a V sign if you see a female flower at each internode at two or three successive internodes this plant is certainly a female. Commonly you'll see the base of a female flower a well formed bract with no stigmas. If your experienced you will be able to identify this pre flower and the fact that it is a female 90% of the time. But the male is much harder to positively identify . A male pre flower tart opens but remains a tightly closed knob or a flat spade shaped protrusion raised on a stalk that characteristically identifies the male flower. Often the vegitative overlapof the male preflower superficially looks like a female flower. So b wise don't just grab what u think might b a male and toss it cuz u migh accidentally toss a female so just mark the plants u think r female and male then learn from your mistakes and take it from there. Good luck to all you growers out there
 
:lot-o-toke:
I grow outside, guerrilla grow every summer. I germinate seeds in January. I put all my seeds in solo cups with pro mix. After they veg for two weeks I put them under 12/12 HPS. It takes about two or three weeks to sex. After they show sex I put them back in veg 18/6. In April I put two foot females in the ground also using pro mix and mycorrhizae. Since I guerrilla grow I also use terra sorb. Terra sorb is basically water crystals with different kinds of mycorrhizae. I only water them if it hasn't rained in two weeks. I used stored rain water. This has always worked for me. I never have problems with males. I do get a few hermied seed. I only had four hermied seeds out of six pounds.

i agree w/ you just put them on 12/and 12/,then return them to 18/6. after plants have 2 nodes put it in 12/12 for a week then return them to 18/6. they will sex faster. or start seedling on 12/12 and increase time every week until you get get to 18/6 just like april sun increases until june 21st. in april its around 12/12 anyway (depending where you live). but i keep my plants on 18/6 (after sexing) then put outside on june 21st (the longest day of the year)..:goodjob:
 
I agree with 90 % of what is said here to an extent,i believe that you should follow the natural process of the whole thing ,I believe that environmental conditions(light spectrum,light intensity,soil temps,soil moisture,humidity,day temps,night temps,and light cycles to name a few)play a huge part in its determination.I have had feminized pre 98 bubba kush from cali connection turn out with 1 male out of 3 seeds.i have been so sure that a plant was a male,and wait a week to find out that it was a female.90 % of the time I can sex when I see the preflowers but there is always those ones that will throw u a curve.some strains are just to difficult to tell with out flowering.so my advice is b patient follow its natural process and continue to read and improve your grow ,provide the essentials and you shall b rewarded.even if you get a male or two it is not all that bad ,as you can still use them to make more seeds .goodluck
 
Back
Top Bottom