How Do I Apply Hydrogen Peroxide?

I use Peroxide to sterilize peat BEFORE planting anything. It works. But I'm trying to find the lowest dose that works. Started at 3%. Gonna try 1.5% this time. Run a gallon of peroxide through the media and recycle the runoff a few times. Let it soak overnight. Then rinse it out.

Anyone else do this? If so, what strength peroxide are you using?
 
will to much h2o2 hurt a plant ?
Absolutely. Hydrogen peroxide kills bacteria. Despite what some are posting, it didn’t distinguish between aerobic and anaerobic. It doesn’t know what bacteria are beneficial or harmful. Yes, there are some bacteria that are more sensitive to peroxide, but not necessarily the “bad” bacteria.
That being said, nitrifying bacteria are essential for conversion of nitrogen into a form usable and absorbable in the root system of all plants and without those organisms, minimal nitrogen is useable by the plant.
Too much hydrogen peroxide can kill off so much bacteria that the plant will starve. The food (nitrogen) is staring them in the face, but they can’t grab it.
 
will to much h2o2 hurt a plant ?
Yes! H2O2 is an oxidizer. It will kill bacteria and fungi. That’s why you put it in a cut; to kill potentially harmful microorganisms before they infect you. In plants, it can kill the essential nitrifying bacteria that converts nitrogen into a form usable by the roots. So, too much peroxide leads too essentially starving your plant.
 
So, too much peroxide leads too essentially starving your plant.


only in organics. in hydro it was customary to run h202 as a constant before there were enzyme scrubbers etc.

if you're using standard salt derived bottle nutes h202 or no h202 won't make any difference as the bacteria don't enter the picture. h202 can be beneficial depending how it's used with bottle nutes, particularly in active / passive hydro apps.

you do have to know how much is too much in any app.
 
what strength peroxide are you using?


i use a 27% solution and dilute as needed depending on what i'm using it for. you can go fairly strong if sterilizing, as much as 1ml/L. it can make stuff bubble, be careful lol :cheesygrinsmiley:

the 3% solution used to go in to 20L / 5 gal to be run constant in active hydro for a sterile res approach. it's a pretty mild solution. h202 breaks down real fast in an open environ.
 
only in organics. in hydro it was customary to run h202 as a constant before there were enzyme scrubbers etc.

if you're using standard salt derived bottle nutes h202 or no h202 won't make any difference as the bacteria don't enter the picture. h202 can be beneficial depending how it's used with bottle nutes, particularly in active / passive hydro apps.

you do have to know how much is too much in any app.
Not true. All plants require nitrifying bacteria at the roots in order to use any form of nitrogen. There are no plants that can utilize soil nitrogen directly. This is basic plant biology. You can over load the soil with hydrogen peroxide (or any biocide) and it will affect the growth of that plant. The nitrogen cycle cannot complete.
 
Not true. All plants require nitrifying bacteria at the roots in order to use any form of nitrogen. There are no plants that can utilize soil nitrogen directly. This is basic plant biology. You can over load the soil with hydrogen peroxide (or any biocide) and it will affect the growth of that plant. The nitrogen cycle cannot complete.

you never ran hydro old school i guess. it was dead center in the toolbox from late 70's - mid 90's.
newer tech like enzyme cleaners and chillers have improved things lots, but it's still a good go to if you're chasing a stubborn issue.

h202 breaks fast. i still run in it passive hydro and incorporate it for systematic flushes or if a reset is needed when using salt based bottle nutes. it also kills gnats and other root infesting pests.

if you run organic it shouldn't be needed. i understand where you're coming from. it's just not the entire picture.
 
you never ran hydro old school i guess. it was dead center in the toolbox from late 70's - mid 90's.
newer tech like enzyme cleaners and chillers have improved things lots, but it's still a good go to if you're chasing a stubborn issue.

h202 breaks fast. i still run in it passive hydro and incorporate it for systematic flushes or if a reset is needed when using salt based bottle nutes. it also kills gnats and other root infesting pests.

if you run organic it shouldn't be needed. i understand where you're coming from. it's just not the entire picture.
Correct, it's not the entire picture. H2O2 does break down rather quickly, but there is a point where it becomes toxic. Most will never use enough peroxide to achieve the lethal concentration (hopefully). I use it to get rid of fungus gnat all the time. It is very effective and my go to additive along with DE. H2O2 takes care of the larva and some adults, but the DE takes care of the adults more efficiently. I don't want to debate this issue and was just answering the question regarding the effect of too much H2O2. There is a point where it can become toxic. Be well and happy growing.
 
I used 2% peroxide this time. It works well. I add enough to completely saturate the media before planting anything. Used about 1.5gal per 5gal pot. Let it sit for 48 hours. Rinse well. Then plant.

It killed all the fungus gnats and other critters before they could hatch. It should kill the bud rot microbes too. Steam does not kill all the spores unless you can pressure steam it. The only time I got bud rot was with steamed media.

So I'm sticking with this peroxide bomb in the beginning. It has worked well several times and only costs about $5 per plant.
 
you never ran hydro old school i guess. it was dead center in the toolbox from late 70's - mid 90's.
newer tech like enzyme cleaners and chillers have improved things lots, but it's still a good go to if you're chasing a stubborn issue.

h202 breaks fast. i still run in it passive hydro and incorporate it for systematic flushes or if a reset is needed when using salt based bottle nutes. it also kills gnats and other root infesting pests.

if you run organic it shouldn't be needed. i understand where you're coming from. it's just not the entire picture.
Large scale commercial hydro grows historically used sodium hypochlorite, what you'll find in regular bleach. It's way safer and work better as a sterilizing agent and is a weaker oxidizer with longer residual effect compared to H2O2.

It was never feasible to use H2O2 back then and it's not by todays standards either, not on a large scale. The application rate is to frequent, it's to short acting and the handling is way more unsafer than bleach.
 
Large scale commercial hydro grows historically used sodium hypochlorite, what you'll find in regular bleach. It's way safer and work better as a sterilizing agent and is a weaker oxidizer with longer residual effect compared to H2O2.

It was never feasible to use H2O2 back then and it's not by todays standards either, not on a large scale. The application rate is to frequent, it's to short acting and the handling is way more unsafer than bleach.

woudn't advocate bleaching your plants lol. i wouldn't call the 2 dozen plants we ran large scale either though.

h202 is still in every hydro shop ever to this day.
 
woudn't advocate bleaching your plants lol. i wouldn't call the 2 dozen plants we ran large scale either though.

h202 is still in every hydro shop ever to this day.
Read application rate and come back with that statement? I think you might bash what you don't understand? H2O2 is a stronger bleaching agent than bleach with shorter residual effect.

Commercially you'll find stuff like Oxyclean with sodium percarbonate that's in granular form that get broken down to hydrogen peroxide when dissolved in water, a bleaching agent bound to a salt for longer residual effect. It's what fabric they affect, but they're both oxidizers that bleaches fabric.
 
Read application rate and come back with that statement? I think you bash what you don't understand?, H2O2 is a stronger bleaching agent than bleach with shorter residual effect.

Commercially you'll find stuff like Oxyclean with sodium percarbonate that's in granular form that get broken down to hydrogen peroxide when dissolved in water, a bleaching agent bound to a salt for longer residual effect. It's what fabric they affect, but they're both oxidizers that bleaches fabric.
are you really advocating running bleach ?

edit : i do know folk who have used it to kill pathogens in water. but not a growing situation whatsoever.
 
are you really advocating running bleach ?
100% serious! It's been used for decades commercially in hydro. 0.5-1ppm in Aero, 1-3ppm in DWC and coir. I currently run 1-2 residual chlorine. Adding 1-2ppm to anything going in to the reservoir.

Here's a dilution calculator:
Chlorine dilution calculator
 
100% serious! It's been used for decades commercially in hydro.
missed my edit. i know folk who have used it for killing pathogens but not in a grow situation.


edit : i've never ran anything but h202 as a preventative. 500ml 3% in 5 gal was the go to. simply a pharmacy grade dumped in a bucket. that was the fix if you needed before internet.

i see that chart has nothing to do with our needs.
 
If you flush your reservoir every week I would say no. Your reservoir is staying nice and fresh with the regular cleaning. Maybe every 2nd or 3rd fill.
The need for using an oxidizer depends on if the grower use a water chiller or not? If not he will still struggle with pathogens like pythium root rot, it's not a matter of it but when will you experience problems in water cultures? If used correctly you actually clean and open up the root stomata for better nutrient uptake. Oxidizers are a part of many biological processes in nature and only the concentration makes the poison.
 
This is for soil (cheap). Once my seedling were ready for the big pot, I noticed the potting soil I bought was full of moisture gnats. I filled the pots and flushed them with off the shelf hydrogen peroxide 1:4 parts water. Let is sit for a couple days. It killed all the larva/eggs along with yellow sticky fly paper. Then transfered the seedlings in. They took off miraculously. Later in a few weeks there were some new bugs emerging. My pots sit on drip trays so on plain watering days I filled the trays with the same 1:4 mix and let the pot suck it up from below as well as from above. The added oxygen was greatly appreciated during growth. But the Fox Farm Ocean soil didn't need it. The loam and peat moss aerates well but I find it drains too much which means more frequent watering.
Wk 6.

20230901_121342.jpg
 
This is for soil (cheap). Once my seedling were ready for the big pot, I noticed the potting soil I bought was full of moisture gnats. I filled the pots and flushed them with off the shelf hydrogen peroxide 1:4 parts water. Let is sit for a couple days. It killed all the larva/eggs along with yellow sticky fly paper. Then transfered the seedlings in. They took off miraculously. Later in a few weeks there were some new bugs emerging. My pots sit on drip trays so on plain watering days I filled the trays with the same 1:4 mix and let the pot suck it up from below as well as from above. The added oxygen was greatly appreciated during growth. But the Fox Farm Ocean soil didn't need it. The loam and peat moss aerates well but I find it drains too much which means more frequent watering.
Wk 6.

20230901_121342.jpg
I run sterile hydro with a 20 gallon reservoir. The res temps vary from a 71 deg F (temp controlled with aquarium heater) low in the winter to a 78 - 84 deg F range during the summer. I dispense 3% peroxide continuously using the Sochting Oxydator

I refill it once every 5 - 6 weeks. No chiller required.
The results speak for themselves.

F-7-2 Oxy.JPG
F-7-1 root.JPG
F-7-3 root.JPG


They also have smaller units available on ZON.
 
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