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How do I identify and prevent Root Rot?

Dr Gonzo

New Member
RandM...
This thing has been driving me absolutely insane for almost a year now. It wasn't until about 3 weeks ago that after 6 weeks of searching the net I finally found a video on you-tube from a guy that was having the exact same problem as I was. What I didn't know was how evil and tenacious this stuff really is. I took clones and added zone and silica solution and it laughed at me. I went around 3 times upping the dose of the zone to a whopping 180 Ml into about 8 gallons of clonex and water solution. When the roots of my clones went from slightly tan and slimy to white I thought I finally had it beat but that lasted about 1 1/2 days and the rot came back with vengeance. That's when I thru a conniption fit and dumped better than 1/2 cup of bleach into the cloner and said ...f-you ...I win. It turned around and said ...I don't think so and the shit took over and the slime was like gelatin after 1 day. I was like ..."Oh Really" and I unplugged the cloner and said ....f - it ....you win ...for now. Ive washed and repainted twice in 6 months. Im replacing my carbon filter due to the fact that its 4 years old and must be loaded with spores and quite possibly could very well be the place where the nest is so to speak.

Ive been studying its behavior and I amazed at the caustic conditions at which this stuff can survive. What I need to know is how to dilute the 35% h2o2 to a level that will surly kill this dam stuff while not using to much and wasting it. I refuse to let this bastard win and it's now at a level of complete obsession. This stuff has torchered my soul for almost a year now after 5 years of complete success without one single problem.

I swear the water dept put this shit in the water supply because my state just went legal a year ago and the major city which supply's all the water for itself and the suburbs is run by the religious right and hates the new law with a passion. I'm a natural problem solver by nature anyway but this stuff has driven me to a whole new level of determination. I cant let it win....No Wayyy...not after all that I have been thru. I'm going to slay this evil bastard or go completely insane trying.
 

RandM999

New Member
I feel your pain.
I used 5 ml. per gal of 28% h2o2 so I guess a 3ml to 1 gal water should work for you. Mind you I was drenching the soil in my pots and not doing hydro but it should be ok at that. Like I mentioned befor, I am convinced that the fungas gets into the plants and re-infects the roots after treatment nessesitating the need to re-treat throughout the life of the plant. My opinion only on that, not verifiable, but just my experiance. I find that I have to do the h2o2 drench about every 10 days or so.
I came within inches of burning down my grow shed in frustration so I know what you are going through.
 

RandM999

New Member
The kicker is that all my searches for cures turned up very little useful info, either on this forum or on other sites. I trashed about a dozen THC Bomb that where about 4 weeks from what would have been harvest time. Plus dozens of vegging plants. All befor I could figure out what was going on. I lost about 8 months of what would have been productive grow if I had known . I posted pictures of the infected plants, and all anybody would say was 'nute lockout', or under / over fed or mag deficiancy or.... or.... or... so I wasted all that time chasing symptoms and getting no where. They just kept getting worse and finally dieing. I know I don't exactly have a green thumb, but I was begining to suspect I was the Typhoid Mary of the canibis growers.
 

monkeybudz

New Member
I used a combination of superthrive and hydrogen peroxide. I was able to finish my grow/flower cycle. I removed the stinky nasty slimy part of the root, and maintained the same regimen. The smell of funky roots went away. Every time I smelled it, I would add both HP and ST and remove the sludge.

This next grow I am switching to X Nutrients which is clear. I had been using General Hydroponics, which is brown- I'll be interested in seeing if the sludge builds up again.

I frankly don't think my reservoir is deep enough for the massive root ball- the system holds 6 plants. Since it's summer, and I am doing an experimental grow on seeds that appeared "after" the flower cycle.

I wanted to see what would happen if I let a plant go beyond flower (with buds removed, of course) and misted with super thrive and florabudalicious plus. Interestingly, I ended up with thin narrow buds, plenty of potency... and 3 seeds. (It was not a hermie)

I read if you leave a female plant go beyond the flowering point, it is possible they may sprout a seed or two in an effort to
maintain a grow cycle. Sure enough- it did. So far one seed is an inch tall (just started)
 

RandM999

New Member
I've done my share of re-vegging when I failed to get a clone from a good strain. Never used Superthrive, I know people say its supposed to be good. What I did for re-veg ( off topic I know ) is to leave the lower 1/3 of the plant, and the small buds. I then trim the root mass and re-pot it. I then feed with a high N fertilizer. It takes a while for it to start re-growing, but if thats what ya gotta do, ya gotta do it.

I'd post picts of revived plants that I rescued from the borg, but I'm having a hard time uploading pictures. I'll keep trying. Some are about a week from harvest and I think I will be getting some good smoke. The tops of the colas are where new growth is happening with multiple sets of new fan leaves and the colas are fattening up pretty well. Although I'm not seeing the trichs like I should on a healthy plant. Has me worried a bit. Maybe just more time...... Its like watching grass grow
 

Dr Gonzo

New Member
OK...here is the update. I went to my local hydro heaven and picked up some 29% H2o2 and then went to the local mega mart and picked up 2 huge bottles of bleach and 3 10 qt pails. The first thing I did was to put on some rubber gloves. Then in a 5 gallon bucket I mixed up a solution of 3 cup bleach and some dawn dish soap. this is for cleaning hands between steps and ensure no cross contamination of any kind. I then washed the pails with a scrubby and rinsed with hot tap water . Filling each of the pails with cool water to almost the top I then added 3 shot glasses (180 Ml) of H2o2 to each of the pails of water and carefully brought the into the room. I removed each of the two week old starts (covered in tenacious slime and placed them carefully into the pail containing the H2o2 solution. swirled them around and then agitated it a bit to break up the gooey slime. Immediately I felt a disturbance in the dark side of the force as if millions of systemic fungal microbes suddenly cried out for help and then were suddenly silenced

I then pumped out my res and removed my feed header and placed it in the res and removed the res from the room. Once at the washtub I turned on the hot water and dumped a cup of bleach into the res and using a fine hard spray I did an initial rinse of all the garbage in the res and dumped. Then I placed the res on the floor and I then placed 3 cups of bleach along with a little dish soap ( used as a water wetter ) into the res and filled with the hottest tap water my water heater could muster. I then plugged in both my feed and recirculating pumps and let it run. I then washed my hands in the 5 gallon bucket and proceeded back into the room and removed my NFT trough and brought that over to the wash area and removed the top. I poured a little bleach into the trough and swished it around then dumped and rinsed with the hose. Then I placed some dish soap into the trough and added more bleach and started scrubbing with a green 3M scrubby and made dame sure I got every little nook and cranny both inside and out and let it sit for about 10 minutes. I did the same for the top lid and rinsed them both with hot water and washed hands again in the 5 gallon bucket solution. I took both the lid and the top into the room and placed it back where it belongs and then turned my attention to the recirculating res. I washed each pump with a scrubby including the cord and rinsed with hot water and repeated with the air stone and feed line. washing hands each time I went in and out of the room.

I reassembled everything and filled the res with water 13 gallons of water and added one shot glass of H2o2 right from the start. next was the silica solution (one shot glass) and the my house and garden nute's (Ec=1.035). Then a shot glass of dutch master Zone and 14 drops of super thrive and 5 Ml of drip clean. I didn't bother trying to Ph the res because silica solution makes your Ph go sky high and I wanted the H2o2 to do its thing for 24 hours before trying to Ph the res. I will then set the Ph tonight to 5.2 and wait another 24 hours and reset the Ph back to 5.2 until the solution stabilizes and safely stays at or around 5.8 without needing to much Ph down to correct. I then placed each of the cleansed starts back into the troughs

And Now....We Pray and We Watch and we Study the effects of our labors.

Napoleon XIV: 'They're coming to take me away' - YouTube
 

RandM999

New Member
Sounds like a plan monkeybudz. One thing I was wondering about since you are doing hydro. Do you use airstones or bubblers? I wonder if you are getting enough oxygen into your water? That could be a source of your problem as well. Outside of that I think your doing everything right. Just don't be too surprised if it raises its ugly little head again though. Continued use of h2o2 may be in your future until you have completely new plants in your setup. I know its not supposed to be systemic, but from my experience I think it gets into the plant and is there waiting to re-emerge when the environment is right for it. I truly wish you good luck though.
 

monkeybudz

New Member
Thanks RandM999. Actually, I had just upgraded to a Fusion Air Pump 500 (for aquariums) with 2 ports to attach tubing and a longer wider air stone. (for aquarium walls) I have a few variations of bubble stones.
What happened was the roots got so long, it smothered the air stone. I definitely trimmed the roots back and removed all the slime I could- I was told that adding peroxide/ST could cause more sludge. It did.
I flushed each container with a solution of both. Each time I started to smell anything funky- I made sure I got on top of it quick. I was able to finish my grow, but smaller buds. I didn't want to clone a plant with root rot of course- so I left 2 to see what would happen.
I misted daily just before turning on the lights for the last plant to finish. I cracked up at the long skinny buds on the older plant- yet I know that can happen with the synthetic NAA-1. It tends to elongate, as opposed to making fatter buds. I had great flowers the first time around- with a really heavy dank scent. Seriously sticky stuff- like white widow. :) Weeeee ^^

ST has it's pro's and con's. It has helped me in many area's and also been my demise. It contains .09% vitamin B1 and .048% 1-Napthyl acetic acid (NAA, a hormone and plant auxin) and smells exactly like vinegar. It's also prohibited in Oklahoma, Minnesota, and Oregon as an unregistered pesticide. Many people call it snake oil- what ever.
Like anything "govern-"mental" might get it's hands on, the NAA is synthetically made- although farmers have been using it since the 40's with positive results.
My main concern is of course that the 1-Naphthyl acetic acid (NAA) does not occur naturally. You can burn out your plants/seedlings with too much- even though it is often used as a rooting compound.

What I am doing now is experimental- Since this plant was in the darkest corner- no light got into it to cause a "gender identity issues"
It just so happened to kick out a couple seeds that looked exactly like the seeds I started with. (pretty speckled/striped seeds)
I had female birds that used to lay eggs (I didn't know they were both female) so I figured- why can't a plant? Having gardened for many years I was amazed by the annuals that became perennials- they self seed. It made sense in the big scheme of things-
Now I see they have sprouted. I'll look forward to and am hoping for twin girls. I'll find out in about 6 weeks.
 

Dr Gonzo

New Member
Update: So far so good. I ended up soaking each start in a 10 qt pail with three shot glasses of H2o2 and let them soak for 3 hours making dam sure that no cross contamination of any kind happened. Its been 30 hours so far and things are looking good. I made up a solution using four shots of H2o2 on my 6 foot tall mother and let it sit for four hours until the bubbling action finally ceased and then let it drain into my 55 gal flood and drain system. I'm watching everything very carefully. I ordered 2 Cap OZN-1 UV-C units (one for each room) and they will be in sometime latter today and will get installed shortly after pickup. If Pythium gives off waterborne spores then the UV-C units will greatly reduce the spore count by generating ozone into the air which will then be sucked into the air pumps and thru the air stones into the water.

I found this while surfing the web http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/HB-090.pdf

Thanks for all your help RandM
Dr Gonzo
 

Weed Farmer

New Member
I have just started my first grow using hydroponics and believe to have signs of root rot. What should I do with my crop... it is currently 3 weeks in. Should I attempt to save the plants and continue growing a mother garden? Bud all those who survive and start anew after properly disinfecting the grow room, equipment etc. Or simply scrap everything, clean, and start anew? from what I have been reading, once you get this stuff if doesnt go away. Is this true even when you scrap your entire crop, clean/disinfect, and start a whole new crop with ideal conditions? I would need some feedback cause this really sucks. Ive just finished my setup, have 3 week old babies which I wanted to turn into mothers and I have to scrap everything and even that may not be enough and I will be doomed to have this shit as long as I grow? There must be a mistake? Can anyone help me! Thanks
 

Dr Gonzo

New Member
I have just started my first grow using hydroponics and believe to have signs of root rot. What should I do with my crop... it is currently 3 weeks in. Should I attempt to save the plants and continue growing a mother garden? Bud all those who survive and start anew after properly disinfecting the grow room, equipment etc. Or simply scrap everything, clean, and start anew? from what I have been reading, once you get this stuff if doesnt go away. Is this true even when you scrap your entire crop, clean/disinfect, and start a whole new crop with ideal conditions? I would need some feedback cause this really sucks. Ive just finished my setup, have 3 week old babies which I wanted to turn into mothers and I have to scrap everything and even that may not be enough and I will be doomed to have this shit as long as I grow? There must be a mistake? Can anyone help me! Thanks

I dont have all the answers ...YET. Pythium is a water borne pathogenic mold. It essentially smothers the roots in a brown jelly like substance that prevents the roots from taking up any water or any nutrient and after 2 to 3 weeks the plant shuts down and dies from whats called "Damping off". As in my case ...its in the city water supply and the only way of controlling it is with h2o2. the other way is to try what I'm about to try which is to install a 5 stage reverse osmosis water filter with UV sterilization and pre-treat the water from the start. instead of the 3.2 gallon tank which you dont need, I bought a brand new 55 gallon plastic drum and Im going to fill that and use that for all my watering needs. I will add to the fresh sterile water an air stone, a small recirculating pump and some silica solution and some cal magic
 

LEDRF

Well-Known Member
Have you tried 5.5-6.0 ph water, air hose with air stone, timed drippings, 30 min on and 30 min off << important, a simple water mix of just basic nutes, like GH 3 part flora series, 1/4 strength. The only additives great white, hygrozyme, and rapid roots, or something like it?

Use all new hydroponic parts. Everything, or bleach everything, then soak everything in pure water, then rense everything again. Be sure it is clean, like brand new clean.

Keep water temps cool, like 68. Freeze bottles of water and keep adding them to your water if you must.
 

Alaskan1

Member of the Month: Sept 2012 - Nug of the Month: Apr 2013
The best thing you can do is prevent root rot from happening in the first place. I have had MORE than my fair share of battles with RR until I was turned onto a product called Zone by Dutch Masters or you can get some Blue Zone from Corey at BPN, I used 3 tablespoons in my 55 gallon res and this prevents RR from ever taking hold. If you end up with RR then I suggest using it at full strength until the RR clears up and then go into preventative mode to keep it from coming back. Since I started using this stuff RR has never been a problem.
 

jrwabbit

New Member
I have been battling root rot for over 4 weeks. One plant was in its 5th week of bud cycle :rip: after 2 weeks of fighting I had to give up the ghost. Then 2 small plants about 3 weeks into veg got it.
These are all DWC plants which is the most common method to get root rot. I have only been growing for 9 months but believe me, I learn very fast. First of all, you must figure out why you got it in the first place, normally an environment problem. I let my water get to hot because I wasn't paying enough attention. Skipped a few check on times. You have to figure out how you got so you don't make the mistake again. I tried bleach recommendations vary on mix ratios anywhere from 1 part bleach to 9 to 19 parts water. Use this as a last resort, not recommended. Peroxide (H2O2) 3 ml to a liter and as high as 2.5 tsp to a gallon. But start at a lower dose. Some recommend using Hygrozyme with or without H2O2. I tried it with because Hygrozyme says it is compatible with H2O2. All of these have had some effect but not enough to save the plant. Even tried some Revive. That didn't help at all.

Now here is my recommendation that has saved the 2 Veg plants, if only I had found this product earlier. Use r/o water and Cannazyme for one week. Nothing else. This stuff is the bomb, I am not anyway affiliated with this company but I wish I was. I had no roots left when I started. It did grow new roots. One plant seem cured a lot quicker than the other. Keep cutting the diseased section of leaves away and new roots may grow and have root rot closer to the bottom of the basket, just keep removing.
The guy at the hydroponic store felt so bad about not having any luck, he gave me a 250 ml bottle for free. The self measuring bottle is cool tho. I went and bought a liter today for 27$, 250 ml is around 10$, enough for 2 plants for a week, a little cheaper than Hygrozyme and imo works a lot better I wish I had made some before pix. Here are after pics. I will post pix later, having trouble w phone and email.

Introduction - Background - Id & Damage - Management Strategiehttp://www.420magazine.com/forums/images/smilies/rip.gifs - Emergency Treatment - Prevention - Environmental Control - Additives

Introduction
"Root rot" is a common waterborne disease that can seriously affect indoor and outdoor crops year round. "Pythium" is a generic term for several different root rot and stem rot fungus species (including Pythium, Verticillium, and Phytophthora, and Fusarium). Root rot is also known as "damping-off" in seeds, seedlings and clones.

Pythium can rapidly infect crops in vegetative and flowering stages. Damage includes strain infection, reduced yields, and crop failure. Pythium is particularly damaging in high-density dwc / hydroponic / aeroponic systems, as these recirculating systems provide ideal conditions for rapid growth and spread of pythium spores. One infected plant can quickly spread rot to all plants if the system has an interconected irrigation system.

This FAQ focuses on indoor prevention and treatment options.

Background
Pythium typically thrives in oxygen-poor (anaerobic), warm (75-85 F), and poorly circulated nutrient solutions. Heavy clay soils with poor drainage are high-risk soil planting sites.

Sources of infection:
# Unsterilized tools and equipment
# Unfiltered water
# Dead roots from previous crops
# Infected plant material (i.e. clones taken from infected moms)

Dissolved oxygen, temperature and pythium
The amount of dissolved oxygen (DO) in a nutrient solution depends on the water temperature. Cold water can 'hold' more dissolved oxygen. A fully aerated solution at 20C/68 F is 9 - 10ppm; at 30C/86F it's 7ppm.

Root oxygen requirement doubles for each 10C rise in root system temperature (max 30C/86F). The dilemma for the grower is that with a 10C rise in temperature, root system oxygen requirements will double, while the oxygen carrying capacity of the solution will drop by over 25%!

The nutrient DO is unable to supply the root's oxygen demands, leading to prolonged oxygen starvation. Oxygen starvation will result in slow growth, mineral deficiencies, root die-back and reduced yields. Oxygen starvation will stress the plant, leading to an eventual attack by opportunistic pathogens, such as ever-present pythium.

Identification, Symptoms and Damage:
Symptoms:
Initial:
# Yellowed, droopy and wilting leaves (possibly exhibiting mineral deficiencies). Leaf curl over - ram's horns' - roots are unable to uptake nutrients at that strength because they are infected.
# pH becomes more acidic (pH should rise slowly in a healthy system)
# 'Burnt' root tips (browning tips may also be a result of light exposure, or over fertilization)
# Reduced water consumption and rising nutrient strength
# Brown colored roots. (Note: GH "Micro" will stain roots brown as well; stain darkens @ ppm's. Healthy root should be white or slightly tan)

Advanced:
# Brown and slimy roots with a slight to strong rotting odor. Plant may appear healthy.
# Reddish and swollen root collar, becoming blackened over time. Eventually the plant will fall over as all connecting tissue will have been 'eaten away'.

Note: Root damage is permanent; new root hairs can form, but damaged roots will not regenerate. Lightly infected roots may turn white again if treated promptly.

Dead roots serve as energy sources for pythium; snip off dead roots and remove flating root piece by changing the tank frequently.

Physical test of advanced root rot:
"Brown tissue on the outer portion of the root easily pulls off, leaving a thin strand of hair-like vascular tissue exposed."

Management Strategies
Keeping the crop healthy, vigorous and stress-free is the best "cure" against pythium. Pythium is almost impossible to 100% eradicate from an infected system; this involves starting completely over (with new mothers, containers, equipment, etc). An infected crop can be nursed along, and subsequent crops can still yield, provided the grower takes care to minimize the growth and spread of pythium in the system.

Starting with a pythium-free system is the best strategy:

Startup with a new crop:
-disinfect the system. Manual scrubbing and bleach might be necessary.
-add tap water
-disinfect the water with strong h2o2. It takes 100ppm to kill pythium outright, however this can also kill small plants. Wait 24 hours for h2o2 to dissipate to a safe level - do not add tap water to system! Add only h2o2-treated water.
-add nutrients and beneficial enzymes. The aerobic-loving enzymes will colonize the sterilized medium and system, hopefully displacing any anaerobic bacteria.

Soil tips:
Improved soil is the first step to keeping root rot out of your garden. Adding amendments to improve drainage and aeration will decrease the chances of root rot. Use only sterilized soil/soilless mixes or heat-treated soil before use.
Removing the diseased plants and several inches of affected soil will slow or stop the spread of pythium. Avoid over watering, as saturated soil promotes anaerobic conditions. Remove and destroy roots and surrounding soil near infected plants. Use sterilized soil for transplants. Provide good drainage and avoid overcrowding plants.

Preventive gardening:
# Monitor plants and roots frequently. Inspect roots for browning. Stressed plants are attacked first, so it is important to inspect crop and remove unhealthy plants.
# Maximize aeration. Use venturis, powerheads, bubble walls/ air curtains, air stones, and daily h2o2 usage to increase dissolved oxygen. Allow nutrients to fall back into the reservoir to create 'waterfall aeration'.
# Use only healthy clones taken from healthy moms (pythium is systemic and diseased moms will pass on root rot!)
# Keep ph stable, between 5.5 and 6.0
# Keep air moving, circulate nutrients continuously
# Keep reservoir / root zone temps low: 62-65F.(Note: submerged pumps will increase water temperature)
# Maintain a clean system. Change tank weekly to reduce spore loads. Add only h2o2-sterilized water
# Use tank additives

Other tips:
# Isolate plants. Keep water culture plants isolated in their own containers if possible.
# "Run-to-waste" systems: nutrients are not re-circulated = reduced spore loads
# Use separate reservoirs/pumps to isolate systems.
# Sterilize equipment shared (ie. pH meters) between tanks
# Make sure cloning mediums (especially rockwool) do not remain saturated for too long. Drain fully after watering.

Special tips for bubblers:
(highgrade) "Have an empty, sterile bucket to place the bubbling bucket into when changing nutes. The extra bucket method allows me to run a gallon of water through the pot and flush the grorocs and root mass of any salt build up. Wash the bucket prior to refilling with solution."

(Baudelaire) "... maintain a humid air gap extending from the root crown down at least 4 inches. This provides the space for aerial roots to form, and keeps water away from the root collar, where root rot typically takes hold."

Emergency Treatment: top

1. Hydrogen Peroxide root dunk
-Remove each plant from system, snip off potions of the roots system badly diseased.
-Dip/swish each plant and container into a strong H2O2 solution, until diseased roots have been removed. Repeat as required. The H2O2 should burn off the pythium-infected outer root layers.

2. Sterilize equipment
All equipment should be disinfected (including hoses and pots, etc) with bleach solution or 10% h2o2 solution before plants are reintroduced into the system. Rinse well.

3. Add root rot medication.
Add anti-pythium additives, Vitamin B1, and fresh nutrients to a sterilized reservoir at a lower strength, at cooler temps. Reduce light levels. After a week or so, after new roots appear, add some root boost additives.

Environmental control: top

# Maximize reservoir circulation, aeration and cooling
# Reverse Osmosis (RO) to remove pathogens from source water
# UV sterilizers. UV kills pathogens as nutrients are passed through unit
# Ozone. Maintain a 300-400mV level
# Blow cool air through the root zone
# Minimize light leaks and cover reservoir (but don't seal) to limit algae growth. Algae will grow, reproduce and die, adding organic material for pythium to feed on. Algae and other slimes may coat the roots, stressing plants even further.

*Take care using UV and Ozone, as nutrients can precipitate out of solution. Iron is especially susceptible.

Chemical/Biological additives: top

Note: H2o2 may kill enzymes used in some biological additives. Additives should be considered preventive only; not all additives may be effective.

Beneficial bacteria colonize the root system, out-reproducing root disease organisms. Some additives may "feed" on decayed roots. Additives may be added during every tank change, except for H2o2 and Ridomil.
-H2O2 (See H2O2 FAQ) -Ridomil (1 app, systemic, toxic, 5 drops/gal).
-FloraShield (by GH) -Bio Bugs
Guardian angel (2.5-5 ml/gal) Bio Bran (rambridge.com, 11 enzymes)
Root Shield (americanagritech.com) Sm-90 (citrus extracts @ 2.5 ml/gal)
Hydro Shield (grotek.net) Pro-Silica (silicon, basic, up to 5 ml/gal)
Microkill (kills mold/fungus/mildew/algae) Pro-TeKt (silicon)
Canna-zyme (Canna, canna.com, 15 different enzymes) Power Active
ATAZYM (Atami) BN-ZYM (bio nova)
Zyme (Green Planet, 6-8ml/gal)
Others: Ascend/Fongarid/Consan 20)/Fosetyl-A1 (sold as Aliette)

For seeds, seedlings and clones:
# Use 1 drop bleach/gal when sprouting seeds using towel method
# No-damp (spray cloning domes at 5-10ml/L)
# Cloning gel/powder with a fungicide

Experimental
# UV Sterilizers. UV can kill waterborne organisms, with a slow exposure to UV light. Research suggests iron can precipitate out of solution. Pythium already attached to surfaces in the rootzone will not flow through the sterilizer and not be killed. Aquarium stores sell them.

# Continuous drip H2o2. According to Maximum Yield, 100ppm is required to kill pythium in solution. This level also adversely affects small plants. Of course, organics and beneficial bacteria in additives will also be destroyed.

H2o2 should be added to a seperate volume of water and allowed to sit for 20 minutes before adding to the reservoir. The majority of the O2 will be chemically released by the H2o2 by that point. (In high enough concentration, h2o2 will burn off the epeidermis of the roots, exposing it to attack by pathogens and damging fine root hairs).

# Slow sand filtration. According to interet literature, SSF can remove up to 99.7% of all bacteria. Aquarium stores sell sand filters.

# Dissolved Oxygen machines. Artifically injecting water with oxygen may inhibit or kill pytium and other anerobic organisms.
 

batai

New Member
Hello there,

I have 4 Amnesia Haze plants. Nowadays I've noticed that I have a stranger smell in my grow tent. It is a stinky, wet smell, people used to describe it as "wet socks" or "garbage" smell. I've read a lot about root rot, so first I let the soild dry out completely to see (and smell) what will happen. The ladies dried out totally, their leaves dropped so this experiment became a good root test as well. When they dropped I've added 0,5 liters of ph fixed water (without any nutrition) to each to see how much time do they need to recover from dropping. It took 30 mins and the dropping was went away, they stood up like hell, so it looks like the roots and their metabolism is okay. The smell came back after lights and venting was shut off (wents used to go lights off period 15 mins in 90 mins), after the 15 mins vents session the good smell comes back and the bad disappears.

There are no signs of nute problems on them, they will start tomorrow the 5th week of flowering, so they look super healthy, no mould, no nute problems. I use Plagron Alga Bloom to nute them. I had problems with the ventillation, but I solved it today.

What is strange from me that I've searched a lot for this bad smell thing and most of the "fathers" complain about it at the 4th or 5th week of flowering, so:

1. Is there any knowledge about that odor changes from good to bad during flowering? Specially in the 4th or 5th week? I've read that someone smelled this "stage" and it appeared after 2 weeks
2. If I'm not that lucky and I have root rot, what should I do? I'm not sure I can cure it (they are in SCROG...), so I have to choices: a, chop of the plants, and start it over, or B, grow them until I can and hope for the best. At variation B can I consume the buds or they will be useless or unhealthy? Amnesia Haze used to flower from 10-12 weeks so they have 7 weeks so far of flowering.

Thanks for the answers and the help! :)
 
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