In addition to simply low stress training a plant from the start you can also create multiple tops. These additional tops can then be trained in the same fashion as only Lst'ing.
First off there's the topping. This is where you will be cutting the stem above a selected node. For photoperiods it's advisable to wait until you have 4 or 5 nodes and then cut above the 3rd.
Make sure to sterilize your cutting instrument first, number one rule. Next determine where you'll be "topping" the stem. Let's get a look at what I'm talking about.
As you can see I've got 5 established nodes, including the first leafstems. This particular plant is starting to lean already above the 3rd node.
I was thinking of topping it here instead, at the 4th node. But I'd like to avoid a crooked trunk to the stem. So let's make the cut...
Here's the cut stem of plant. Notice the 45° angle I cut at. This is to prevent water or dirt or whatever, from sitting on the wound. It helps the water slip off and not pool.
You can see the little tiny nubs that will become your new main stems. They will grow fast since they are still the pinnacle of your plant. In a few days they will have emerged.
This is the remaining portion of the stem. What you could do is wait until you have 6 or 7 nodes and then top the plant. In this way you could trim the cut stalk and attempt to clone it. I'm not doing this for these test plants but it is very feasible for one to do so.
Now that's it's been a couple days and the auxins have been readjusted to incorporate two top stem. We can see that both lower nodes are growing and the top two shoots are starting their engines getting warmed up for the race.
And a couple days later.. Let's start the daily Jedi training.
I'll bend the leaf stems away from the mainstem. Making a bid "M" shape. This gives (imo) the new shoots more room to grow freely.
Disclaimer : if you think you're going to break it, don't do this step... For steady hands only.
Next I'll super gently bend the growth shoot down to meet the leaf stem. Use very little pressure as to not break it, it is very delicate at this point.
And then repeat, for a few days. This is going to make your new stems stronger and become more or less oriented in the direction you'll be training it.
That wraps up the initial topping for Lst'ing later on. Hope that shows you enough that you may experiment this technique on your own. Remember practice makes perfect, you may not get it perfect the first time but the effects on your plant will be the same.
KiG Everyone
Cheers
First off there's the topping. This is where you will be cutting the stem above a selected node. For photoperiods it's advisable to wait until you have 4 or 5 nodes and then cut above the 3rd.
Make sure to sterilize your cutting instrument first, number one rule. Next determine where you'll be "topping" the stem. Let's get a look at what I'm talking about.
As you can see I've got 5 established nodes, including the first leafstems. This particular plant is starting to lean already above the 3rd node.
I was thinking of topping it here instead, at the 4th node. But I'd like to avoid a crooked trunk to the stem. So let's make the cut...
Here's the cut stem of plant. Notice the 45° angle I cut at. This is to prevent water or dirt or whatever, from sitting on the wound. It helps the water slip off and not pool.
You can see the little tiny nubs that will become your new main stems. They will grow fast since they are still the pinnacle of your plant. In a few days they will have emerged.
This is the remaining portion of the stem. What you could do is wait until you have 6 or 7 nodes and then top the plant. In this way you could trim the cut stalk and attempt to clone it. I'm not doing this for these test plants but it is very feasible for one to do so.
Now that's it's been a couple days and the auxins have been readjusted to incorporate two top stem. We can see that both lower nodes are growing and the top two shoots are starting their engines getting warmed up for the race.
And a couple days later.. Let's start the daily Jedi training.
I'll bend the leaf stems away from the mainstem. Making a bid "M" shape. This gives (imo) the new shoots more room to grow freely.
Disclaimer : if you think you're going to break it, don't do this step... For steady hands only.
Next I'll super gently bend the growth shoot down to meet the leaf stem. Use very little pressure as to not break it, it is very delicate at this point.
And then repeat, for a few days. This is going to make your new stems stronger and become more or less oriented in the direction you'll be training it.
That wraps up the initial topping for Lst'ing later on. Hope that shows you enough that you may experiment this technique on your own. Remember practice makes perfect, you may not get it perfect the first time but the effects on your plant will be the same.
Warning Don't forget these instructions deal strictly with photoperiod plants. Autos are a different animal all together. I will do another instalment that is specific to auto training, since they have such short veg time and are their own animal. Warning
Keep Training, Keep Learning, Keep Sharing
Keep Training, Keep Learning, Keep Sharing
KiG Everyone
Cheers
and good pic's my old man show me toping around 98 and i have been doing it ever since,
