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How Long Should My Clones Take To Root?

bc33

New Member
:peace2::peace2:I live somewhere in British Columbia Canada. I have been a comercial grower for 18 years. I cut clones on a weekly basis. I always bat a about a 90% success rate. In my opinion keep it simple. I dont use any special nutrients for my mothers. I keep up on my spraying neet for pests. keep my room and gear clean my tray washed in between batches of clones. I dont use razors or cut under wanter or any of that. Just scissors at a 45 and dip in rooting powder stem root # 2. I use jiffy 7 pucks and domes unde 24 flouresent light. 5 -15 days rooting time. I open the dome 10 minutes per day for air. I also make sure my pucks are not too wet but just the right amount of mousture. By this method I have produced 15000 clones every month for the last 5 years. I wouldnt bother with the expensive additives or any of that. Keep it simple
 

bc33

New Member
Like i said I bat 90 percent or better I cut 5 or 10 extra on an order of 1000babies. Usually I dont have to. I ve just seen alot of people wasting time and money on completely unneeded steps in clone production and bud production. Tried tested and true. When I first started I used to do all these unneeded steps as well like cutting under water. And I relized after trial and error rooting gel was no better than powder razors made no difference. Extra additives never increased my yield or quality of smoke on bud. I mean I use h2o2 fulvic acid a 3 part nutrient and thats it. at the proper ph of course. I have never gotten less than 1.5 lbs per thousand watt light on bud and it always ships as triple aaa. The most important thing is caring for your plants proper airflow, clean room, keep up on spraying for pests(people get really pissed if you sell clones with spider mites on them) proper ph.in your water. Water at the same time everyday. misting your moms couple times a week also helps. If your moms are healthy your clones will root better. These are principles of growing that apply to mother plant or bud production. Lots of people waste money on the so called best nutrients. I use straight tap water for my clones. I have 100 hundred mother plants of three different varieties Purple kush, Champagne, and Thunderfuck. The kush takes a day or more to root and champagne can take twice as much nutrient as kush without burning leaves but I cant say I ever gained anything from adding anything fancy or the newest cutting edge product and i ve taken probley a million clones
and grown thousands of lbs of bud. But clones are my bread and butter. Clean ,simple ,consistent,let nature take her course they dont call the shit weed for nothing:goodluck:
 

misterman1961

New Member
Like i said I bat 90 percent or better I cut 5 or 10 extra on an order of 1000babies. Usually I dont have to. I ve just seen alot of people wasting time and money on completely unneeded steps in clone production and bud production. Tried tested and true. When I first started I used to do all these unneeded steps as well like cutting under water. And I relized after trial and error rooting gel was no better than powder razors made no difference. Extra additives never increased my yield or quality of smoke on bud. I mean I use h2o2 fulvic acid a 3 part nutrient and thats it. at the proper ph of course. I have never gotten less than 1.5 lbs per thousand watt light on bud and it always ships as triple aaa. The most important thing is caring for your plants proper airflow, clean room, keep up on spraying for pests(people get really pissed if you sell clones with spider mites on them) proper ph.in your water. Water at the same time everyday. misting your moms couple times a week also helps. If your moms are healthy your clones will root better. These are principles of growing that apply to mother plant or bud production. Lots of people waste money on the so called best nutrients. I use straight tap water for my clones. I have 100 hundred mother plants of three different varieties Purple kush, Champagne, and Thunderfuck. The kush takes a day or more to root and champagne can take twice as much nutrient as kush without burning leaves but I cant say I ever gained anything from adding anything fancy or the newest cutting edge product and i ve taken probley a million clones
and grown thousands of lbs of bud. But clones are my bread and butter. Clean ,simple ,consistent,let nature take her course they dont call the shit weed for nothing:goodluck:
Good stuff
 

MisterPeabody

New Member
i like the H&G line too, but man, that sh*t is expensive.
Do you use the full line PitViper?
I'm not PitViper, but here's my spin on H&G. I was introduced to the H&G line at the beginning of my last grow. The main reason I chose it was unlike the other brands of A&B where you pay 30 bucks for A and 30 bucks for B, with H&G the 30 bucks INCLUDES both A&B. (a client of mine operates a hydro shop and I get cost, so I buy it by the gallon). I use the entire line with the exception of their shooting powder. It's expensive as well but comes in inconvenient pouches. From what I understand, many of my hydro gal's customers swear by it. If anyone has used it, please chime in. Since I began using H&G, I've yet to experience a restricted dripper or pump related issues due to residuals. I agree with you, it's expensive, however is is concentrated, very refined, and if you follow their feeding schedule and start with good water it will provide you a stable solution that doesn't vary in PH like other products I've used.:rasta:

http://www.420magazine.com/forums/c...731-evolution-growcab-school-hard-knocks.html
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/c...-cab-ventilation-redesign-all-about-heat.html
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/D...-Deep Water Culture-fogponic-contruction.html
 

Jasonlee247

New Member
Yea, I got to test it for a friends business, and I like it. works well, good yield, quality, etc., I just cant justify the cost if using large quantities at retail prices. Especially when if you do your research you''l find products containing the same ingredients in similar ratios for alot cheaper. of course you'll have a variety of brands sitting around, but like I tell friends; 'No one company/manufacturer makes the best of everything, so sometimes it's best to mix and match in order to use the best.' Now ofcourse thats just my opinion, but it has treated me tops for years!

...anyways, yea I like the house & garden, but i'm just sooo cheap. lol Have you noticed that the bottles, labeling and prices look suspiciously like BioBizz?? Hmmm..... I think its some kinda Dutch conspiracy. lol
 

Ziminy

New Member
Sounds to me like you might have a pythium problem or similar fungus. Your success rates seem to be dropping from run to run. You might want to try replacing your tray and dome if you use them. Do you allow standing water in the room? Check the lower stem of your unsuccessfull cuttings for any mushiness or foul odors - right were you cut. You can also add Trichoderma species to your initial watering to fight pythium before it starts.
I have tried cloning 3 times now. Each try with a different medium. Rockwool, then Oasis, then Coco fiber.

Grow dome, heating pad, everything treated with an anti mold/mildew preventer and on the third try, hydrogen peroxide in the water. On the third try, the cuttings never EVER wilted. I was very confident since they looked really beautiful and healthy with no discoloration or wilting. But after 7 days, when I go to check them, all the stem below the surface has turned to slime.

Is this pythium? And where do you get Trichoderma, when I search on the internet I just get thousands of scientific papers describing it.

I'm afraid to try cloning again. Since I have read over and over and over and over and over again what other people are doing and I seem to be doing the exact same thing with the exact same problem.

Advice?
(I'm in Florida, very humid air, not sure if that matters)
 
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Slowpuffer

Well-Known Member
I have tried cloning 3 times now. Each try with a different medium. Rockwool, then Oasis, then Coco fiber.

Grow dome, heating pad, everything treated with an anti mold/mildew preventer and on the third try, hydrogen peroxide in the water. On the third try, the cuttings never EVER wilted. I was very confident since they looked really beautiful and healthy with no discoloration or wilting. But after 7 days, when I go to check them, all the stem below the surface has turned to slime.

Is this pythium? And where do you get Trichoderma, when I search on the internet I just get thousands of scientific papers describing it.

I'm afraid to try cloning again. Since I have read over and over and over and over and over again what other people are doing and I seem to be doing the exact same thing with the exact same problem.

Advice?
(I'm in Florida, very humid air, not sure if that matters)
I water my mom with plain water that's sit out for a couple days, about a day before i plan on taking cuttings. I mix 50 per cent perlite, with my regular potting soil. Whack the clone, and make a 45 % slice, then i scrape and mangle the rest of the cut. Dip into the olivas jell, and spear it into the mixture. I use 16 oz. cups. I did 16 cut's 2 wks. ago, and all 16 are rooted and ready to transplant. Ha !! I only need 4 !! After about 5 days, pull the dome off and see if they wilt, if they wilt, then mist and replace dome. Soon as you see new growth, give them about 1/4 strength nutrients. I just don't understand why folks have a problem with cloning !! I understand that clones root faster in water, but i'm in no hurry !! I mean, i can take cuttings and stick them in water, sit them in the window, and even they root within a week!! Remember, young roots love air !! And you need to check them everyday, not once per week !! :yahoo:
 

bizz

New Member
all the stem below the surface has turned to slime.
this happened to me recently

i made a bunch of clones and i put some in a clone tray which has a bottom to the tray and then a tray liner which keeps clones from touching bottom of tray, and i had some other clones i put in a rubbermade container...

i have a heating pad hooked up to a temp controller, i had the controller temp probe in a cube that was in the clone tray, controller set to 78 degree's, problem was the rubbermade was in direct contact with the heating pad where as the clone tray had air between the clones and heated surface... this made the clones in rubbermade turn to slime beneath surface of cubes from over heating... the clones in tray were ok, the direct contact of heating pad to rubber container to clones was too much heat, they needed that air buffer...

do you have a temp controller? maybe getting too hot? is there any air buffer between bottom of container and clones?
 

Ziminy

New Member
1st set in rock wool did not use heat at all.
2nd set in Oasis, and it WAS sitting directly on the bottom.
3rd set in Coco, had pots lifted off the bottom for air space.

Again, it was an issue of changing things slightly with each try so that I could find out the problem, but same results all 3 times except the last, when the plants never wilted at all and looked totally healthy even at the point when the stem was almost completely disolved into mush. The clones LOOK happy and healthy.
 

Jasonlee247

New Member
Okay, started my 4th set of clones today.

If anyone can tell me why my stems keep turning to mush, I would very much appreciated it. Maybe someone brilliant out there can help save this group.
Trichoderma products, and stuff that will help if you water it in:

Large Picture

General Hydroponics General Hydroponics: FloraShield , quart - Style # 704030, General Hydroponics,General Hydroponics nutrients,General Hydroponics 3 part,General Hydroponics nutrients,Flora Bloom,General Organics nutrient line

Amazon.com: Physan 20: Kitchen & Dining

Florashield is probably your best bet because it's not as harmfull as Physan, but Physan 20 will kill anything. you's use very very little, and NO more fungus, bacteria, anything. Physan is what I used to use on my cuttings, but you don't wanna get any on you, and if you add too much you'll kill your babies. Works wonders though if you follow directions. Trichoderma is more of a preventative, but if added from the very start will work against any fungus/bacterial problems down the road.

Hope that helps.
 

Malcolm

New Member
Okay, started my 4th set of clones today.

If anyone can tell me why my stems keep turning to mush, I would very much appreciated it. Maybe someone brilliant out there can help save this group.
Your humidity may be to high and your rooting "vehicle" may be to wet. When cloning, I like to keep both the humidity and the temp at about 72 consistantly throughout the entire time until roots appear. I use a tray and high rounded dome to root them in. I use Rapid Rooters and Clonex rooting solution mixed with water to use in the tray. I do not mist them ever throughout the entire time they are in the tray, only after they are in medium and then for a few days until they take and get growing. My clones are dipped in Clonex Gel and set into the root plugs about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. Do not bend the stem or crush it when sliding it into the plugs as this will also cause "damping off" which is what is happening to your babies. For lighting I use a shop light with two 40 watt 4' tubes, warm and get roots within 8-9 days every time, hope this helps...:ganjamon:
 

Malcolm

New Member
I also am new to cloneing I recently took two shoot cuttings from a grape ape sliced on 45 also sliced. Stem a lil I used rooteck jel diped right into jar hope it works any comments please
The cutting of the clone before insertion into the rooting compound, is the most important cut. You can take a cutting from the mother plants carefully using a sharp scissors but the cutting of the "new" baby should be done with a razor on a firm surface, a cutting board, and should expose as much as the inner part of the stem, the pulp if you will, as possible so try to angle your slice to this degree. I prefer rooting gels over powder forms and have always had great results using Clonex Gel and also Clonex Rooting Solution for my tray's. The gel is actually a growth hormone that enables the new plant to form roots. It's not a nutrient per say. However, unless your lighting, heat and humidity are cool also and to the liking of your girls, than it will all be for naught, hope this helps...:ganjamon:
 

Ziminy

New Member
Your humidity may be to high and your rooting "vehicle" may be to wet. When cloning, I like to keep both the humidity and the temp at about 72 consistantly throughout the entire time until roots appear.
:yahoo:
Thank you so very much. After doing a forum search on "damping off" I think you are correct. I put a heating pad under my box and the temp was at 82. My house is NORMALLY 72. So I removed heat.

I am also now leaving the lid slightly ajar. That should keep them a little dryer.

Every guide I read said that heat and moisture are your clone's friends. It never occurred to me that this would be the WRONG thing to do. Especially since the advice to almost everyone with clone problems is more heat and moisture.

Cool and Dry! Lesson learned.
:thanks:
 

Malcolm

New Member
:yahoo:
Thank you so very much. After doing a forum search on "damping off" I think you are correct. I put a heating pad under my box and the temp was at 82. My house is NORMALLY 72. So I removed heat.

I am also now leaving the lid slightly ajar. That should keep them a little dryer.

Every guide I read said that heat and moisture are your clone's friends. It never occurred to me that this would be the WRONG thing to do. Especially since the advice to almost everyone with clone problems is more heat and moisture.

Cool and Dry! Lesson learned.
:thanks:
Just keep the temp and humidity both, at around 70-72 consistantly, no fluctuations, until roots appear and you should be good. To much or to little of both will give you problems...:ganjamon:
 

ToastyRoadie

New Member
I use a set up very similar to this one,
420 Magazine ®

I have had 100% success using this method with 14 out of 14 succesful clones this far. I only use 6 sites and I don't use any gel, powder, vitamins or nutrients, just plain water, not even ph balanced, and a heater to maintain 78*F in the water. I submerse about 1/2" to 1" of the stem into the water and have roots in less than a week. I use rockwool cubes in 3" pots to suspend the clone above the water.

Basically a mini DWC.:51:
 

Jasonlee247

New Member
:51::yahoo:
Just keep the temp and humidity both, at around 70-72 consistantly, no fluctuations, until roots appear and you should be good. To much or to little of both will give you problems...:ganjamon:
And add your beneficials as soon as possible!

AND GO GREEN!!!




:439::reading420magazine::rollit::bong::ganjamon:
 

wyattsgrandpa

New Member
I may have solved my original posted cloning problem. I lined the bottom of my tray with about an inch of Roots Organic soil, moistened with water mixed with KLN rooting liquid and a couple drops of thirve alive. I dipped the oasis cubes into the same mixture and drained them. I then took my cuttings, dipped them in Clonex jell and placed them directly into the cubes. I covered them with a dome and misted the tops for the first couple of days. They were placed under a four light T-8 system, just about touching the dome. After 6 days I had beautiful roots on 90 of the 96 I cut, the other six popped two days later. I noticed that the soil remained moist and warm during the entire process... Thanks to all who wrote with suggestions and advice. I have learned a lot from all of you... Happy growing..
 
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