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How To Build an Inexpensive Carbon Air Scrubber?

apbt4204life

New Member
Depends on the size of the scrubber you want to build. The one on the first page has 6inch ducting so a 6inch inline duct fan or a 6inch inline centrifugal Vortex or whatever fan will do...

to better understand what im asking say you had a 1.2 by 1.2 by 3.5 how much corbon would i need to have no smell for a room that size and and what size fan would pull the air throw with out being over kill and making alot of nose
 

Myzz617

New Member
Oo ok sorry for my mis-communication. I would imagine that you would not need that big of a filter such as the one on the first page. I would contact HTG supply or a local hydro store who could better advise.
 

newbie2010

New Member
The Can-Can can not be refilled, from what I've read.

When I built mine, I saved about half to 3/4 the cost of a can can, but it was a PIA to build alone. It was frustrating. I can still smell the odor a bit, outside the vent of my indoor room.

What would be ideal would be to buy one from Can Can and then be able to replace the carbon once it no longer filters the odors.
 

apbt4204life

New Member
The Can-Can can not be refilled, from what I've read.

When I built mine, I saved about half to 3/4 the cost of a can can, but it was a PIA to build alone. It was frustrating. I can still smell the odor a bit, outside the vent of my indoor room.

What would be ideal would be to buy one from Can Can and then be able to replace the carbon once it no longer filters the odors.

you can replace the can filters the shop i go to said i could but said for 10 bucks more i could get a new one but im sure you could get caron cheeper ells were
 

905jay

New Member
FINALLY posted a few photos.

I added carbon and found a few issues with my project:

The activated carbon I ordered is very fine - like large sand

So when I filled the carbon bed, many grains drained from the screen merely because the screen I bought lacks a fine enough mesh for the sized carbon I bought. Figuring this out BEFORE filling will save aggravation. Also, I bought 8" hose clamps in anticipation of switching them with the original "2x 4 inch clamps made into 1x 8 inch clamp" used in the initial construction. The original clamps were difficult to remove. Starting with the correct parts is also a must. 9" hose clamps would have been even easier to use, but 8" worked with patience.

Then, the carbon began to leak from the seam created by the screen - where the 2 ends of the screen overlapped in the outer layer of the filter. I poured the carbon into a tote so I could dissassemble the filter and make improvements.

My core is surrounded by the panty hose so unless there's a "run" in the hose, it should keep the carbon in the bed. This part seems ok.

The DIY instructions state to use another panty hose leg to secure the carbon in the bed but I couldn't get the leg to fit. A 6" filter should be fine but my filter is 8". I decided to run the window screen 2-3 times around the bed and use the hips/belly part of the hose to cover this. Then the hardware cloth was reapplied. I was able to return all of the carbon, from the tote, back into the newly enforced bed and NO leaks - YEAH!!

I then covered the exterior with more batting and used 3 zip ties to hold it in place.

The filter weighed about 2 pounds assembled but empty and 8 pounds complete with carbon. I probably could have fit a bit more carbon inside but I was thoroughly frustrated and wanted it finished. The bed looks to be about 1" thick

My plants are not yet ready to flower but will update the effectiveness against odor when applicable.

If I did this again, and I will, I would try to make the bed at least another inch thick. This will require reducers larger then 8", so more creative shopping. I do see why people buy the premade filters, but I like the idea of a greener grow room.

I also want to figure out a greener way of reusing the carbon, but maybe not this tiny grain size.

PEACE

Hi newbie2010,

I am looking to build a carbon air scrubber myself. I see that through experience you made several changes, and several realizations about what worked and what did not.

I was wondering if you would be so kind to provide me with your "final notes" on exactly what i need to purchase, and possibly your instructions and pics of the steps involved.

You seem to have discovered a lot while making yours, and I would love to learn from your experience.

With your permission, I would love to create a beautiful pdf walkthrough and provide you with a copy (with yours and my own pics)

Thank you for any help you can give :)

You can also email me at 905jay@gmail.com
 

newbie2010

New Member
Greetings 905jay -

I wish I had taken more photos, as I built the thing - but I didn't. The other photos posted here pretty much give you the jist of the project though. Most of the photos that I have were taken from others' posts at various sites.

Here's what I have in notes: (sorry - photos won't come through and most of the verbage is from the sites I checked out to complete this project)

Using Fantech FG XL 6: cfm = 483 6" Diameter core with a 24" length

GOAL: outside -> inner core hose — HC — screen — carbon — hose — screen - HC
Tools: flat head screw driver and wire snips

Steel hardware cloth or rat wire — fencing section at hardware store — 24" x 5'- used almost whole roll
1 each 6" and 8" duct caps 1 x 6" duct collar 1 x 6" x 8" reducer aluminum or duct tape
2 x 6" and 2 x 8 or 9" hose clamps Virgin activated carbon Small bag of poly-fill scissors
fine screen material (24"x5' min) — screen mesh must hold back the carbon 1 pkg extra queen size panty hose

To build the core: Cut the hardware cloth (HC) to a length of 24"
Wrap the 24" piece HC around the 6" cap and snip. Leave 1.5-2" overlap to strengthen the seam.
Snip to insure no points, or you'll get poked and they'll run the hose. Repeat with fine screen.

Use the 6" hose clamp to clamp HC onto cap.

Repeat on the other end, using the 6" collar — put the crimped end inside the core, leaving the tabbed end out.

Cut the legs off of the hose and stretch each leg over the capped core end, stretch legs and cover the core with two layers. This is the FILTER'S CORE.

Twist ties in the middle add structural integrity; although not necessary. 11" ties would not fit.

Set the collar end into the 6"x 8" reducer. Flip it over and tape the collar to the inside of the reducer.

To ensure it's taped securely you can tape one part on the inside, then tape the opposite side. Kind of like lug nuts being attached to the wheel of a car. Of course you can do this however you like, but make sure it's taped on very tightly and also ensure that your filter core is lined up straight with the reducer.

Ok we now have a majority of the filter complete. Now just for the finishing touches. This part is also somewhat annoying, but you only have to do it once.

Take your batting and make a strip that will be long enough to go around the duct reducer once and slightly overlap, maybe 12" wide. Then fold the strip in half, and then in half again, "rolling it up". Then take this rolled up batting and stuff the inside of the reducer, filling the space:

Take out the 8" duct cap and set it upright. Put the filter on top of it as shown to figure out how much more mesh you will need for the filter shell.

Now cut some more mesh and also be sure it overlaps about 1-1.5" just like we did originally on the core - except this time we're working with a wider piece since the exterior shell is 2" larger in diameter.

You can use the 8" duct cap to roll the mesh around to find the size again. Or you can measure, however you prefer. Once you have the size you need, wrap it around the front of the filter (the reducer side). For a 24" core length, I needed 20.5" x 27" of HC and screen. Then attach a 8 or 9" hose clamp. You should end up with this:

Once that side is on, add the 8" duct cap and do the same. You may need to size the mesh some, but tighten it somewhat loosely. (You want the 8" duct cap to be as close to the 6" duct cap as you can. ) You still want it tight, but we will be removing it again soon.

I used 3X Q sized hose and they barely fit over the 6" core. No way could you get these to fit over an 8" total diameter filter. Instead, I used window screen again. Cut this screen to wrap two or three times around the HC. When I added carbon, it poured out where the screen ends met. Perhaps buying even larger then extra queen panty hose would also help keep the carbon in the bed. Maybe hose over the screen but before the HC will hold the carbon in the bed. OR use the hip part of the hose after the screen.

Screen then body part of hose:
2X screen wrap plus hose:

Place the 8" cap in the opposite end of the HC for spacing and structure. Form the HC around the reducer, just as it was done with the 6", and clamp it down using one 4" and one 5" hose clamps together — running into each other. Do this if you can't find 9" hose clamps. I used two 4" and they were about impossible to get to fit. After buying 8" clamps, it was difficult to remove the 2x4" ones. Start with 8" or 9" to save the aggravation. Grow shops near me (Way to Grow) have all of these clamps and the hvac fittings for this.

Take the panty part of the hose and stretch it over the outside of the HC. Repeat with the other pair => 2 layers.

Fill it with carbon. You may need to hold the core at first = spacing even. Continuous 1" layer is perfect.

Leave an inch or two to fill in with the poly-fill. Replace the 8" end-cap, clamp it down and you're done.

Stuff that batting in good, but very carefully. Try to avoid snagging it on the mesh. Once done, add the 8" duct cap back on and tighten it down good. Again, longevity, not overkill. Also be patient, this can be a bitch. Then you can finish rolling the socks up and over the hose clamp. I stopped mine at the end of the duct cap, but do what you like.

The last step finally! Flip the reducer back over so the duct cap is on the floor. Cut the sock to make the hole where you will be connecting your ventilation to. Then you can roll the sock down some if you like.

BTW -

My room is large and this scrubber, perhaps not fit to the room properly, does not filter out all of the odor.

To take care of the rest of the odor, I made this: (also taken from this or other sites) - works GREAT while the ONA lasts.

ONA Ait Filter or Crude Bubbler

5 gallon bucket
9-10" fan - simple one for air circulation
ONA Pro

After doing this myself, I realized that I had drilled holes too far down the bucket. When I turned on the fan, water blew out the holes, creating a mess on the floor.

To complete -
Add 5" of water into the bucket. Place the fan such that it blows air into the bucket. Remove the fan and note how high up the water was splashed. Remove water, temporarily if you wish to be more green;)

Drills holes ABOVE this splash line, all around the bucket to the bucket top. The bucket will look like it has air holes for a pet.

Replace the water and add 1-2T of ONA PRO gel. Return the fan to blow air into the water and replace 1-2c water daily. The ONA Pro gel will also need to be added once you can smell the plants again, which is probably often. Although my grow is legal MMJ, it is stealth and I use the ONA Pro when a visitor stops by during flowering.

PEACE










To refill, simply loosen the clamp, remove the cap and dump the carbon. Refill and replace cap.
 

newbie2010

New Member
forgot to mention, there are a few photos on my gallery

if I ever build one again, I'll definitely take step by step photos

for now, it's doing it's job, so no poking around needed
 

7thtoker

New Member
hehe, I love DIY stuff.

saves sooooo much $$$$$
 

JhonBlaze

New Member
Little off topic question but in the same ballpark. I am looking for a quiet exhaust fan for my grow tent 4x4x7. would this work??

Panasonic FV-40NLF1 - WAMHomeCenter.com

I have heard the vortex of equal strength is just 2 loud i need something silent with the power to suck out all the hot air from my reflector and the tent.

Thanks
 

newbie2010

New Member
That looks like a good fan to me. Maybe if you google it, some user ratings will pop up.

More then the fan sound, my issues are the vibration noises from the fans - floor trusses etc. I used lots of insulation and can still hear the fans. Not stealth at all.

Good Luck
 

905jay

New Member
:goodjob: Pics are very useful.

Here's the one I made.

Tools:
flathead screwdriver
tin snips or wire cutters
duct tape (I like Gorilla brand)

Items needed:
hardware cloth $7
stuffing (pillow, etc) $5
4 inch duct connector $3
4 inch end cap (an elusive item) $4
6 inch end cap $5
4 x 6 inch reducer $5
ring clamps (4 @ $1.50) $6
activated carbon (2-28 oz bottles @ $6.50 ea.) $13
nylons or stockings (from the $ store) $1
total - app. $49








You are going to construct two tubes (one 4 inches in diameter and one 6 inches in diameter) using the hardware cloth. Begin by cutting a piece of the screen (hardware cloth) to measure 15" W x 18" H. Cut another to measure 22" W x 18" H. Take the 15" W screen and form it into a tube around the 4 inch duct connector (at the top) and the 4" end cap (at the bottom). Leave the top half of the connector protruding from the end of the screen. This end will fit into the 6 x 4 reducer. Use two of the clamps to secure each end. Cover the outside of the tube with one stocking and secure it to the top with some duct tape. Construct the other tube the same way using the 22" W screen, 6 x 4 reducer (top) and 6" end cap (bottom). But put the other stocking on from the top (leave the open end at the bottom).
Here's a drawing of the completed tubes:

Loosen the bottom clamp on the 6" tube and stuff the padding down into the 6x4 reducer leaving the opening clear. Slide the 4" tube (connector end/top) down into the reducer opening. The padding should be thick enough to hold the carbon, without extending up to the open screen. Now fill the space between the tubes with the carbon, and be sure to shake/tap/vibrate the particles into a tight fit. Leave a little room for the stuffing at the bottom. Pack the bottom with stuffing, replace the 6" end cap, and cut an opening in the stocking at the top of the 6 x 4 reducer. Connect it your fan/ducting and prepare to eliminate all smells. You can even scrub smoke from the air.



Hope this helps someone. :peace::peace::peace:
Thanks Jollygreen for the pics and the guide. I am having trouble visualizing what the inside looks like. Would you be able to post some pics please? I would like to see how the pillow stuffing and carbon fit together etc..

Thanks again for the great tutorial!
 

sooly

New Member
thanks for the advice on making carbon scrubbers to control odour.

i made a very simple passive one for my cupboard grow and am dumbfounded at how well it removes odour.

i took some shade cloth cable tied into a 1m long bag, filled with activated carbon and rolled it back on itself so it made an inch thick roll you can see hanging upper left. took about 5 minutes to make $10 carbon and $5 of shade cloth.

 

underdox

New Member
thanks for the advice on making carbon scrubbers to control odour.

i made a very simple passive one for my cupboard grow and am dumbfounded at how well it removes odour.

i took some shade cloth cable tied into a 1m long bag, filled with activated carbon and rolled it back on itself so it made an inch thick roll you can see hanging upper left. took about 5 minutes to make $10 carbon and $5 of shade cloth.



does this work? I wanna make a microgrow inside a pc case. if that works I will just buy some chinese car active carbon bags of 100gr carbon
 

NekoDragon

New Member
:goodjob: Pics are very useful.

Here's the one I made.

Tools:
flathead screwdriver
tin snips or wire cutters
duct tape (I like Gorilla brand)

Items needed:
hardware cloth $7
stuffing (pillow, etc) $5
4 inch duct connector $3
4 inch end cap (an elusive item) $4
6 inch end cap $5
4 x 6 inch reducer $5
ring clamps (4 @ $1.50) $6
activated carbon (2-28 oz bottles @ $6.50 ea.) $13
nylons or stockings (from the $ store) $1
total - app. $49








You are going to construct two tubes (one 4 inches in diameter and one 6 inches in diameter) using the hardware cloth. Begin by cutting a piece of the screen (hardware cloth) to measure 15" W x 18" H. Cut another to measure 22" W x 18" H. Take the 15" W screen and form it into a tube around the 4 inch duct connector (at the top) and the 4" end cap (at the bottom). Leave the top half of the connector protruding from the end of the screen. This end will fit into the 6 x 4 reducer. Use two of the clamps to secure each end. Cover the outside of the tube with one stocking and secure it to the top with some duct tape. Construct the other tube the same way using the 22" W screen, 6 x 4 reducer (top) and 6" end cap (bottom). But put the other stocking on from the top (leave the open end at the bottom).
Here's a drawing of the completed tubes:

Loosen the bottom clamp on the 6" tube and stuff the padding down into the 6x4 reducer leaving the opening clear. Slide the 4" tube (connector end/top) down into the reducer opening. The padding should be thick enough to hold the carbon, without extending up to the open screen. Now fill the space between the tubes with the carbon, and be sure to shake/tap/vibrate the particles into a tight fit. Leave a little room for the stuffing at the bottom. Pack the bottom with stuffing, replace the 6" end cap, and cut an opening in the stocking at the top of the 6 x 4 reducer. Connect it your fan/ducting and prepare to eliminate all smells. You can even scrub smoke from the air.



Hope this helps someone. :peace::peace::peace:

This helped alot. built mine almost exactly the same works great. +reps
 
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