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How To Clone A Cannabis Plant


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Ok guys lets do some cloning. There is tons of info about this subject already but people will always ask for more info. I think the reason for this is because most people are afraid to cut their plant. They are not fragile. Pruning and cutting usually will increase bud production. It doesn't really hurt the mother plant, the only real stressful part is on the cutting itself. Cloning is the most traumatic experience a clipping via clone will endure. You are forcing a clipping to transform into a growing plant. We are making a stem that was growing leaves to all of the sudden grow roots and undergo severe changes to survive. Because of this you should take more cuttings than you need. Don't worry, it gets easier.

Cloning. MJ plants can reproduce sexually or asexually. Seeds are from reproducing sexually while clones are propagated asexually. To be technical cloning is taking cells from the plant (for growers that means cuttings) and promoting its growth to become a plant all its own.
Before we start Lets talk a little about the good points and the bad points to cloning.

Good points are as followed. It reduces the the time to having a mature plant. You don't need high power lights to start clones, florescents work very well for cloning.Since clones are genetic copies of thier mothers all clones will be the same sex. Taking a clone and flowering it will tell you what sex your soon to be mother is. Since clones are genetic copies, they grow at the same rate so other techniques like SOG (Sea of green) or SGROG (screen of green). The older the mother is the easier it is to induce flowering.

Here are the bad points. Clones grow slower than a F1 hybrid will because of the lost of its hybrid vigor. This also means a F1 can grow about 25% bigger than a clone. You have to start with a good mother because all the characteristics of the mother, the clones will have the same. Clones are less disease and pest resistant because of the trauma a clone has to undergo to become a plant. You need at least two different growing areas, one for veg and clones, the other for flowering. Some plants are very diffacult to clone or its just not possible. Like certain unstable hybrids, Sativa with early flowering properties, or the Ruderalis with autoflowering properties like the Lowrider.

Preperations for cloning. Clones develop a stronger and faster root system when they have a high carbohydrate and and low nitogen concentration. Flush your plants one week prior to taking cuttings and feed only water for that week. Just don't drown your plants. Since I do hydro it makes it a ot easier, just change the water in the res every other day for a week. Reverse folier feeding will also help leech nitrogen from the leaves. Just fill spray bottle with water and mist your mother heavily eryday once for three to five days. Hormone content is different in different parts of the plants. The bottom of the plant has more hormones in it so the lower branches tend to root better and faster than towards the top of the plant. There are many cloning compounds out there but I prefer the gel. It coats evenly and sticks to the plant well. Which ever you use just read the instructions and make sure its for use with edible plants.

Now its time to get ready. Clean and disinfect your work areas and tools. Always use sharp scissors or a razor and clean with alcohol. Have everything ready and within easy reach like rockwool, scissors humidity dome ect.

Cloning, step by step.grab a firm branch and cut at a 45 degree angle and take a cutting about two to four inches in length. To not damage the bottom of the cutting. Trim off the lower leaves and node points. Then place cuttings in water. A embolism is a air bubble that can get trapped in the stem and kill the clone, this is the reason to soak cuttings in water until your ready to put in grow medium. Make sure the ph is between five and six. Do not fertilize the clones.

Pic of chronic mother

Picking a branch

The first cutting.

Same cutting but removed the lower leaves and node points.

Split the end to create more surface area for roots. I chose this method because is causes a stronger root system. Only draw back is it takes more time to root.

Lightly scrape the skin aroung split stem to expose more of the cambium layer.
The cambium layer is where the plant generates roots.

Dip end in cloning gel. I hope my rooting hormone still works. It is old and has turned into a liquid.

Put clipping in rockwool or whatever growing medium. Make sure its very moist and that you press or fill your medium around the hole to keep air away from the rooting area

I like to spray the dome to give a humidity boost.

In about two weeks I should have some clones.

Pic of mother chronic after final pruning and topping.

Yes there are a ton of articles online but none was so simple and easy to understand. Great share!


Well-Known Member
THis is a great step by step tutorial and exaclty how i do it too, but i do add an extra step, i clip the tips of all of the leaves of the clones, i have been told and saw my caregiver do this. this makes the clones root faster as it sends a hormone down the stem faster producing roots.Has anyone heard of this ? it seems to work for me..
my clone arrived this way from the dispensary, and i wondered why... now I know! it seems like a survival tactic by the plant...


Well-Known Member
What is wrong with my plant?
I have cut 6 clones from a healthy plant.
They are 11 days since cutting.
I dipped in “dip n grow” rooting solution, then placed in rockwool.
They have been misted once or usually twice a day.
They have been covered with a humidity dome (vents are open)
No roots showing yet.

As you can see this one is turning yellow with black spots.
I don't expect all to make it but don't want this one to affect the rest.

I don't see any of the other ones looking like this.

Anything I can do?
the black spots look like a fungus, I would trash this bad boy/gurl before it travels to the other ones...


Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info. I'm starting to do more clones. The previous ones did well, except for a couple that were too immature and failed to root. Since my money is tight right now...I did not buy rooting powder and made the cuts at a long angle to expose more and put directly into soil...pressing the soil around the stem to get good contact.

I did use some plastic wrap to cover for more humidity, only during sleep times. The remainder of the time I left them uncovered in an indirect light source (window glass). They did ok without the rooting powder and basic cost nothing to do them.

Since I'm retired and had the time...I watched the leaves start drying and finger flicked with water and repeated the finger flicking each time they started drying. I did not keep them totally wet, but starting to show drying before sprinkling them again. This time I was considering leaving the plastic covering over the container and removing occasionally for air.

Was wonder how often I should uncover them? I could just use the method used before, but if they would do better covered and removed at intervals...how much time in between uncovering?

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