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How To Clone A Cannabis Plant

NormanTBates

New Member
Man that was great information, but I do have one question. You said that fast flowing hybrids are difficult to clone, why's this?

:thanks::yummy::rasta::yummy::thanks:
 

icclearly

New Member
A couple questions if I may, when soaking the Rockwool is it OK to keep it saturated throughout the development of the clone? I feel like my clones were drowning because it was so sopping wet. I also heard to feed with Olivia's nutes? Lastly..how many days until the clones actually start to develop leaves?

Thanks!
 

Racefan

Well-Known Member
A couple questions if I may, when soaking the Rockwool is it OK to keep it saturated throughout the development of the clone? I feel like my clones were drowning because it was so sopping wet. I also heard to feed with Olivia's nutes? Lastly..how many days until the clones actually start to develop leaves?

Thanks!
Keeping the rockwool too wet will slow root growth. the idea is to force the cutting to form roots and search out moisture. if the moisture is always there it doesn't need to root as quickly. That doesn't mean to keep it too dry either. It's a fine line you walk when cloning.lol
As for leaves...depends on the strain, condition and other variables.

And I run a 20/4 or a 24/0 lighy schedual while waaiting for roots. But any normal veg cycle will work.
 

icclearly

New Member
A couple questions if I may, when soaking the Rockwool is it OK to keep it saturated throughout the development of the clone? I feel like my clones were drowning because it was so sopping wet. I also heard to feed with Olivia's nutes? Lastly..how many days until the clones actually start to develop leaves?

Thanks!

..sorry I meant 'Roots'...not 'Leaves'...anyway, I would like to understand the proper procedure for the initialization of the watering. Do you soak the Rock-wool first or do you set the cube in the liquid to allow it to absorb what is needed?
 

Racefan

Well-Known Member
I pretreat the rockwool before adding the clones. I use a quarter strength flowering nutrient PH'd to about 5.0 and soak the cubes into them for 24 hours. then I cut the clones, scrape the cambium layer, dip into rooting gel and place into the cubes and then trim off about 1/4 of the leaf tips to slow transpiration. I run 20/4 or a 24/0 light schedual with the lights raised to about twice as high as normal.
When it comes time to wet the cubes I pour PH'd water onto the tray they are in and allow the cubes to absorb what they need. pour off the extra.
I don't run a humidity dome. I harden my clones to the light and enviroment by placing them only onto a saucer or tray when I cut them.
 

WhiteWiddow

New Member
very nice thread here i will def take it in consideration when the time comes except i was going for a long veg state to see how big my plants get before cloning them i want well rather hope i can get them really buschy first then clone and flower the clones
 

MinniBratt

New Member
Clipping of the leaves stops the plant from transpiring (sweating) so much. A clone can only uptake so much solution. if it's sweating out more than it can take in it will wilt, dry out and die. Transpiration is a normal part of life for plants. With clones you want the cutting to spend more of it's energy forming roots than trying to grow leaf or transpiring so you clip it's leaves which keeps the plant from having the ability to sweat/transpire a lot.

Another way to slow transpiration is to keep the cuttings into a high humidity dome. The humidity keeps the leaves moist so they don't have to transpire their own moisture.

Ok so i took some clippings a couple days ago, MTF and Erkulan, i did cut the big fan leaf TIPS off.
I purchased a OSH tray with dome that is not very tall maybe 3"(just need time to go to the nearest hydro store, 25 mins away, for a real DOME)..I keep the dome on most of the day, i have taken the dome off for 30 mins once a day to let some air in and to see how they do without it. I have two 15wat 18" fluro's and a 20wat CFL about 3-3.5 inches away
But they still seam to wilt and look sad. I fed the mom FF-BB and GB & root stimulator about a Hr before i made the cuttings. I used just plain Roots soil for med. and RO water.

:50:How do you "Harden" them? Do you allow them to droop for a day before they bounce back? How far should the light be? Is the lighting (watts) really that important to grow roots?

:sorry:This is my first attempt to clone...So forgive the many silly questions.
I know they need more time to root,i just hope im not spinning my wheels.....so much to ask, too much to remember:439: But i think im getting it.
 

bigman151

Member
Love the info quick question can a clone be made into a mother
 

NormanTBates

New Member
I used this method today to make my very first set of clones from my first grow! Im excited and really hoping it all goes well! We shall see! Check out my grow journal, the link is in my signature. Click on "Live and Learn"... Thanks 420!! +reps!

Whats up BAS? One good point of advice is too keep the roots tray warm for the first week or so. I just bought a small electric blanket and put it on low. This will increase your chances of rooting and speed the process along. Hope this helps.
 

OldSkoool

New Member
Thanks to 420, I have two healthy clones that I just re potted, one of which is from a momma plant that is currently in flower, producing beautiful trich covered buds two weeks after the first pistils showed. I plan on vegging it's clone until harvest, then take another cutting, and flower the current clone. I'm just wondering, if over time, the plant will lose any of it's current potency.
 

BreakPoint

New Member
The hormones don't go anywhere. They are already there. They are stored in the cambium layer of the stem and to help a clone with rooting it's best to scrape some of the outer bark/layer off of the bottom of the stem to expose more of the cambium layer.
Clipping of the leaves stops the plant from transpiring (sweating) so much. A clone can only uptake so much solution. if it's sweating out more than it can take in it will wilt, dry out and die. Transpiration is a normal part of life for plants. With clones you want the cutting to spend more of it's energy forming roots than trying to grow leaf or transpiring so you clip it's leaves which keeps the plant from having the ability to sweat/transpire a lot. Another way to slow transpiration is to keep the cuttings into a high humidity dome. The humidity keeps the leaves moist so they don't have to transpire their own moisture.

so will it be too much humidity to do both? to trim the leaves to prevent transpiring, but also to mist the leaves and dome while roots are forming?

Also, should we have our domed tray on top of a tray heating pad? I read somewhere to keep the temp low (70-72 F) to reduce heat stress, but I got to thinking the outside air temp is different than the temp of the growing medium...
 

BreakPoint

New Member
well I'm gonna find out now. I accidentally broke a lowest node branch off a 9" vegging bagseed plant and couldn't get it too tape up or stay back in place so I decided to rip it off the plant and try to clone it. I can't imaging it'll work, as everyone says it takes maybe 4 or 5 weeks before you can take clones. but WHATEVER I'm super excited for it to work.
 
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