420 Magazine Background

How to stop preflower and get back into veg stage?

morphin

Active Member
Need photos of the hairs your worried about. But so far, looks like they are showing sex and nothing more so far.

Just need closer photos plz

My phone's camera can only take this close.
It seems hair develop stopped with 24/0.
 

Attachments

  • 20190917_152100.jpg
    20190917_152100.jpg
    404.6 KB · Views: 57
  • 20190917_152105.jpg
    20190917_152105.jpg
    394 KB · Views: 54
  • 20190917_152133.jpg
    20190917_152133.jpg
    365.1 KB · Views: 53
  • 20190917_152349.jpg
    20190917_152349.jpg
    407 KB · Views: 56
  • 20190917_152358.jpg
    20190917_152358.jpg
    395.2 KB · Views: 51

morphin

Active Member
I see lots of fresh new hairs

Agree with oldbear

What do you call this then ????

They are same amount but their size increased.
Also just 1 plant has brown hairs now. All the others still white.

Temperature is 30-31 degrees at the moment.
Is there any relationship between temperature and flowering?
 
Last edited:

Oldbear

Well-Known Member
NIce pics. There have been lots of terms used herein. What would you call the stage where these are now?

@Emilya would like your thoughts on this please.

Common understanding of different terms is important.
 

Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019 - Grow Journal of the Month: Jan 2020, Aug 2021
@Emilya would like your thoughts on this please.

Common understanding of different terms is important.

I call it the vegetative stage. I also call it maturity, at any point after we see alternating nodes and pistils and with that maturity comes the ability at any point to go into flower when the night period becomes long enough to tell the plant that it is time to bloom. To think that a plant or any other creature could just instantly go into full reproductive stage without first reaching physical maturity is not logical, the sexually mature parts would have to have been in place already, ready to go when called upon.
What seems to be confusing the OP is that once this process starts, this maturing of the plant, is that he thinks that automatically without extreme lighting tricks to prevent it, the plant has to go into bloom... and it simply doesn't work that way. Those who have vegged a plant for 2 or 3 months to be able to send a massive plant into bloom, see these preflowers all the time... and they remain preflowers until the lighting changes and nights become 10-12 hours long.

I have no other terms for veg other than early, middle and late veg, and that for me has to do with the size of the plant more than anything else, but maturity is one of the markers of late veg. The next stage is Transition, the period between Veg and Bloom.
 

TorturedSoul

Member of the Month: May 2009, Oct 2010, Sept 2017
The next stage is Transition, the period between Veg and Bloom.

Is that the same as what I've always referred to as "the stretch phase of the flowering period?" IOW, the first ~40% of the flowering cycle, when the plant is in bloom but also still producing significant growth?
 

Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019 - Grow Journal of the Month: Jan 2020, Aug 2021
Is that the same as what I've always referred to as "the stretch phase of the flowering period?" IOW, the first ~40% of the flowering cycle, when the plant is in bloom but also still producing significant growth?
not in my book... stretch is that period during the first 2 weeks of flower when the plants double or triple in size. Transition is that period of 7-10 days from the time you flip the lights to 12/12 and when the first pistils shoot out of the growth tips, signaling the start of bloom.
 

TorturedSoul

Member of the Month: May 2009, Oct 2010, Sept 2017
Hmm...
 

morphin

Active Member
Hello guys! I have good news!
After setting up lights "1 week 24hr - 1 week 20hr - rest 18hr" Now we back in veg state completly.
But I have seen a little strange thing. New nodes grows faster than old pistlish nodes.
Also all the process slows down entire grow process about 3-4 week but after that they started to grow again like monsters!
Whatsoever I'm ready to move them to bloom room but first I'm going to try silver spray to create some seeds.

Also I took 23 clones from them and everything seems just fine.
But also I learned something again, clones can generate roots quickly when lights 24hr-ON.
I always use 24hr-ON but this time I just put them in veg room under 18hr-ON and after 10 days they still not ready, almost they have %50 less roots with same time. Needs another week I guess. With 24hr-ON usually they're ready at 10th day. Keep in mind.

Thanks everyone for helping me out.
Happy growing!
 

morphin

Active Member

I'm too busy these days but I came with good pics! :ganjamon:

First of all, I want to talk about my clone method;
2-3 months ago my clones died 2 times because of high heat and low humidity at summer. I bought a humidity machine and directly attached in a clone box, result was awesome. I think this is the best method so far, %99 success rate with any temperature.

20191016_172954.jpg
The good thing is you dont need to give water. It works like rain! And clones loves that!
But because of high humidity you will get a lot of water at bottom. You should drill a corner or you need to watch the water level daily. It is not a big deal.

Also I put them under 18/6 MH this time. I was trying to slow down the process because of my exams and it worked. Also I learned that 24/0 is better with clones.
This is my previous clones 24/0 - at 10th day.
20181210_192150.jpg

With 18/6 you're going to have this at 10th day.

20191016_145852.jpg

As you can see all the clones are just fine! If you're experiencing my bad luck don't worry. It is proof that you can take clones at enter of flowering stage.

20191016_171119.jpg

It is my celebration dance when my clones alive! :ganjamon:

Okay now it's time to talk about how I reversed the flowering problem.
Because of high electricty usage my friend decided to switch 16/8 and after that 14/10 without asking me! After the cycle change also overfeeded! These was all the mistakes ever made.
When I saw pistils I changed light cycle to 24/0 1 week. 20/4 2nd week, 18/6 rest.
I think you should go higher then 16/8 at least if you don't want to see pistils on your plants!

The problem started at September 15 and now we're going to be ready to past flower stage at November 15.
I think I just lost +-25 days from my cycle.

As you can see I tried to train them with bending top of nodes.

20191016_173016.jpg

But instead of these tops plant decided to go with new nodes and just give up trying to restore these old pistilish heads.
Other new nodes growed like monsters but the main tops still remain almost same.

20191105_175359.jpg

20191107_183324.jpg

This is the new top of the plant and as you can se there is no pistils at all.

20191107_183351.jpg

But old nodes still look like this and can't grow like new nodes.

20191107_183329.jpg

I bought new light! I have now 480W v2 LM301B quantum led light. It looks better than 2x600W hps.
My heat problem just over and it is awesome. I'm going to buy 2 more for veg room too.

As you can see the small plants just growed well so far. I changed with bigger pots and next week I'm going to switch 12/12! But first I will try Silver holy Juice on gorilla glue's 1 node. I don't have any experience with it so I'm open for any kind of advice!

20191107_183429.jpg

I have problems with small flies. They laid eggs in the pots and they keep coming!
They don't give any harm to plants but it is still a big problem because I hate flies!
Because of that I cover top of the pots and I'm trying to keep them away from my pots!

It is just began because of my organic soil and worm+bat fertilizers. They're organic but brings bugs! Even I saw a worm in the soil... I just quit of using worm fertilizers! Bat fertilizer still so strong and cheap!
I decided to only use bat + Grow,Micro,Bloom set! I think It is enough.

Also when you flush, the soil does not dry quickly at cold and this is a problem for plants.
These construction sacks useful for quick dry when you flush. In this case, I can pull the sacks out of the buckets and let them dry quickly. What do you think?
 
Last edited:

morphin

Active Member
Also one of my plants has a problem. It is not mobil. All over the plant look like this.
What is the problem?


20191107_173037.jpg 20191105_175412.jpg

I stopped feeding because my idiot friend over feeded them and I lost 2 big christmass tree at last flowering month!
But I started to give micro+grow+bloom 2ml/L one week ago and I will give 2nd feed "4ml/L" this week.

One last thing!!!
I harvested 2 bruce banner, 1 gorilla glue and 1 noname.
My previous harvest was much much stoner then this time because when I look closer with microscope, Thc length is %50 shorter than my previous. Thanks again to my idiot friend!

Keep in mind please! You can't take MORE when you give MORE! But be sure that you can kill the plant or get less!
Greediness is harmful for your plants!


20191105_174937.jpg 20191105_175010.jpg 20191105_174858.jpg
 

TorturedSoul

Member of the Month: May 2009, Oct 2010, Sept 2017
Also I learned that 24/0 is better with clones.
This is my previous clones 24/0 - at 10th day.

With 18/6 you're going to have this at 10th day.

That's nice to know; thanks for posting it (along with the photos).

Because of high electricty usage my friend decided to switch 16/8 and after that 14/10 without asking me!

Some friend, lol. Yes, many cannabis strains will flower under a 14:10 light schedule (as you learned).

I have problems with small flies. They laid eggs in the pots and they keep coming!
They don't give any harm to plants but it is still a big problem because I hate flies!
Because of that I cover top of the pots and I'm trying to keep them away from my pots!

One thing you can do, which is very effective for "soft-bodied" insects that move from your plants to the soil and back, is to cover the top of your soil with a thin layer of food grade diatomaceous earth. It's basically a powder composed of micro-fossils, lol, that will slice up and dehydrate insects that crawl across it. Other than that, it's non-toxic to anything with a skeleton (people give it to their pets for parasite control).

Also one of my plants has a problem. It is not mobil. All over the plant look like this.
What is the problem?


20191107_173037.jpg 20191105_175412.jpg

I stopped feeding because my idiot friend over feeded them and I lost 2 big christmass tree at last flowering month!
But I started to give micro+grow+bloom 2ml/L one week ago and I will give 2nd feed "4ml/L" this week.

To me, it looks like a moderate magnesium deficiency. You can add both calcium and magnesium (along with a small amount of nitrogen, generally) via one of the various "Ca + Mg" bottled supplement products, or you can add magnesium and some sulfur by mixing a little Epsom salt into your water. If your plants aren't lacking in calcium, I'd probably go with the Epsom salt (considerably cheaper, dry products don't expire if kept dry, and available in grocery stores and pharmacies instead of indoor grow shops ;) ).
 
Top Bottom