Humid Temperate Colombian Andes Greenhouse Organic Grow

Air tight also just minimizes oxidizing. As for curing, if you are going to vape, I don't think curing is so important. I like very crispy buds, because then they're easy to deal with in the grinder, and then into my vape.
Wow, that is super helpful! Thank you CBD.
 
Hey @cbdhemp808 ,
I have been wanting to reread this thread for a while. It is busy but I am kind of making time.
It looks like I was getting everything all backwards. Thanks for straightening me out. I am hoping I at least have a somewhat better handle on it than before.

"Kush" literally means from the Hindu Kush region, and these are original indica landraces. So you've got Hindu Kush strain, Afghan Kush strain, and they are from Central Asia. So what I'm saying is, a true indica is actually a Kush. I mean, more or less I think we can say that.
That is very interesting. I was reading up on it. Cannapot lists 12 different Afghan landraces (all of which seem visually different from each other).
The Afghan Seed Connection has it looks like 9 different landraces, and a video of a hashish factory in Afghanistan.
Then the "Afghan Selection" page had an additional 12 landraces, and a cool map. They are all sold out at the moment, and TWO of them are identified as "Hindu Kush"!
("Will the real Afghan Kush please stand up??")

Then you've got modern hybrids that contain kush (indica) genetics, for example Banana Kush, which has lots of Hindu Kush in its lineage (see Seedfinder.eu).
Yeah, thanks!
And I looked it up, Afghani #1 is supposed to be the native landrace, and slightly narcotic.
Afghan Kush is supposed to be a hybrid landrace with some sativa.

So my point is, lots of indica-dominant hybrids contain kush genetics, and lots will give you that amazing pain-numbing body high that facilitates stretching, yoga, and massage. I use Blueberry and Humboldt Dream, and both have this effect.
:thumbsup:
I think we can safely say that Northern Lights is a direct descendant of Afghan Kush. Different phenos will have some variation with effects.
I read some.
They said that Northern Light is a further cross between Afghan Kush and a Thai haze.)
Any modern hybrid named So-And-So Kush likely has Hindu Kush or Afghan Kush in its lineage. What matters is the strain and the phenotype of the strain, to find one with high levels of terpinolene and/or ocimene, and other pine terpenes.
:thumb::thumb::thumb:
I would say there are plenty of kush hybrids that are likely not bud rot resistant. Afghan Kush likely is, as well as Northern Lights #5 (descendant of Afghan Kush).
:thumb:
Another kush that looks promising for bud rot resistance is Banana Kush. Another one is Critical Kush, w/ pheno(s) high in ocimene and pinene.
Ok, so it does not necessarily need to be a landrace, it just needs to be high in ocimene, myrcene, pinene, and other pine terpenes?
So what I need to scan for is those genetics, PLUS insect resistance? (Or do those two resistances tend to run together?)

We just can't generalize and say kushes are fungus/mold resistant.
Ok....
We can say that some phenos of modern kush hybrids, and some phenos of landrace kushes, are fungus/mold resistant. I happen to think the Central Asian landraces (kush/indica) got their fungus/mold resistance by cross-breeding with Indian sativas.
Hahaha, are those sativa sativas, or indica sativas? 😂
I'll repeat what I've always been saying, and that's to not stack all the requirements into one plant. Find your bud rot resistant THC indica plant, and find your bud rot resistant 50/50 or indica-leaning CBD plant. Then mix the flower using the grinder.
Ok, so I am looking for bud rot resistant THC indica, and bud rot resistant indica-leaning CBD plant, and then mix in the grinder, if I want that mind-numbing stretch-inducing effect?
And I also need to select for insect resistance (or do those run together?).
Keep in mind that CBD tends to moderate the psychoactive effects of THC, so you can mix CBD with your high-THC indica buds, in the right amount, to get an even deeper body high.
:thumb:
RE: Afghan Kush from Blimburn



Trust me, there are Afghan Kush phenos that are high in terpinolene and pine terpenes.
👍
It's a matter of finding a good seed line, then you grow them out and look for the phenos. Ditto for Northern Lights #5.
👍
Blimburn isn't providing terpene profiles (with percent of each terpene), and they probably don't provide any information on the phenotypes either.
Ahh, ok. Now I think I get it. Pinene, terpinolene, ocimene, myrcene, bud rot resistant, pest resistant, for when I want that effect (which is most of the time).

(I hope I am starting to get it.)
 
Ok, so it does not necessarily need to be a landrace, it just needs to be high in ocimene, myrcene, pinene, and other pine terpenes?
So what I need to scan for is those genetics, PLUS insect resistance? (Or do those two resistances tend to run together?)
Ok, so I am looking for bud rot resistant THC indica, and bud rot resistant indica-leaning CBD plant, and then mix in the grinder, if I want that mind-numbing stretch-inducing effect?
And I also need to select for insect resistance (or do those run together?).
Ahh, ok. Now I think I get it. Pinene, terpinolene, ocimene, myrcene, bud rot resistant, pest resistant, for when I want that effect (which is most of the time).

I think it's a safe bet to find seed for Afghan Kush or Northern Lights #5, and then grow it out and look for a pheno that's high in terpinolene and other pine terpenes. This will give you your kush THC high, and the terpinolene and other pine terpenes is my theory for bud rot resistance.

Then you need a CBD type 3 that's also high in terpinolene and other pine terpenes, for the same reason... bud rot resistance. For CBD type 3, I recommend something from GTR Seeds. Most of those are sativa dominant.

Then you can combine your THC kush buds with CBD buds in the grinder at whatever ratio works best for you.

As for natural resistance to insects, that's not something I've looked into much. For this, I'd point you in the direction of general plant health—the healthier the plant, the more resistant to pests.

So this is a new concept for me, but a very healthy plant—in veg and in flower—will maximize the natural resistance to fungus/mold and pests. A good measure of overall plant health is brix (pronounced "bricks"), which is a measurement of sugar content commonly used in beer and wine making. For cannabis, we can measure the brix of the juice from a leaf. The instrument for this is called a refractometer, and you can get a decent China one for $15 on the Zon. I actually just got one of these, but haven't used it yet. It's said that a brix level of 9 would be pretty good. At 12 and above, it's said that pests and disease will not be a problem.

Several factors in the grow contribute to high brix, and I'm starting to learn about this. One big factor is light, so if outdoor plants aren't getting great amounts of sunlight, then this is pretty much a show stopper for high brix. On a very practical level, pot size is a big factor, because if the pot isn't big enough for a living organic soil grow, then there will be problems with the pot getting root bound. (Less of a problem with fabric pots.) In general, you want plenty of nutes and the plant needs to be able to absorb them well. For high brix, you want great growing conditions and all the right nutes. I'm just starting to peer down into the high brix rabbit hole!

To summarize, all of this goes into natural resistance to fungus/mold and pests for outdoor or greenhouse grows:
  • look for strains/phenos:
    • high terpinolene or ocimene, along with other pine terpenes
    • high resin production
  • lots of sunlight
  • living organic soil
  • big enough pots (e.g. 10 gal); fabric pots if available
  • proper watering with pure water
  • overall plant health using nutrients for high brix

One last thing... regarding growing in 5gal SIP buckets... I have decided this is most appropriate for indoor grows under bright lights, using soilless or standard potting soil, and synthetic or synthetics-like nutes appropriate for hydro. You can read more about my SIP conclusions HERE. I'm now in the process of returning to 10 gal nursery pots, and will also be trying out 10 gal fabric.

:ciao:
 
I think it's a safe bet to find seed for Afghan Kush or Northern Lights #5, and then grow it out and look for a pheno that's high in terpinolene and other pine terpenes. This will give you your kush THC high, and the terpinolene and other pine terpenes is my theory for bud rot resistance.

Muy bien.
Ok, the NL CBD sativa leaner successfully completed flowering indoors under LED with no mold.
I had no mold on anything this time, which was great!
(I'm just guessing that whatever cultivar they use to make autos is not mold resistant, and that's why the auto's got mold before. It os good to go photo!!)
The only thing I did this time was to use regular seeds (mostly, although the Afghan Mass XXL autos were still stunner) and put myco and tricho into the supersoil, and keep fans on it.
Humidity hovered between 70-90%, usually around 75-85%.
No mold, and no leaf spots 🙏:yahoo::surf:

I have two of the NL CBD sativa-leaner clones in the greenhouse, (if the contractor does not kill them, haha).
We will see how they do flowering inside of a plastic greenhouse when "winter comes" (cooler but drier?? The weather is VERY DIFFERENT here!!)

Actually I may be moving again, to a quieter place. There is a space for a second greenhouse and my farm manager is encouraging me to put a second greenhouse in, which we can do because it is two properties.
My farm manager has insomnia, and I have been giving him the vape tailings to make tea, which he says help him to "sleep like a baby", so we could call the 20 plants on the farm his, and then I could do another 20 plants at the river house. (He is a super good employee, so he's totally worth it.)
(After this next grow they can use the full greenhouse space on the farm for tree tomatoes or whatever they are doing, and then I will have the plants next to me again, but 40 plants will not be a problem because it is two properties, and two people who use the product.)

Probably it will take a few months to get everything set up, but hopefully I can build a properly sealed greenhouse with mesh, and then take NL CBD clones from the property before it is time to pull the lights.
(I am just realizing I can probably also put up a separate clone tent, and a small tent for males! Woo hoo!! 🙌
It will be great to get back to growing! (I miss it a lot.)
:woohoo::morenutes::morenutes:


I have always wanted to grow them outside in ground in soil. I think it will be easier just to let everything grow up (or maybe make a bush), rather than having to cut and trim and form, and water every day, etc.
I think it will be a lot easier just to snip the tip and let it grow into a bush.
Then my farm manager can have all he wants.
(And I dig growing it, so it works out.)

Then you need a CBD type 3 that's also high in terpinolene and other pine terpenes, for the same reason... bud rot resistance. For CBD type 3, I recommend something from GTR Seeds. Most of those are sativa dominant.
OK, that sounds good. I will have to look and see which of their seeds have the most terpinolene, pine terpenes, ocimene, myrcene, etc. (This helped me a ton. Thanks for sticking with me till I got it.)
Which are the ones that give the lemon 🍋 or pineapple 🍍 taste?

Then you can combine your THC kush buds with CBD buds in the grinder at whatever ratio works best for you.
:thumb:
As for natural resistance to insects, that's not something I've looked into much. For this, I'd point you in the direction of general plant health—the healthier the plant, the more resistant to pests.

Yes, I agree with that in general but I think there's more to it than that. I will try to take more pictures next week but the mail that went to start flowering in the greenhouse was perfectly green, and growing in the same soil as all the rest, but it was all chewed up with bugs. and I did not see any lunch marks on the other plants. The soil was exactly uniform in all of the different planting holes, and some were chewed, others were not chewed.
I hope to take some better photos the next time we go (which I hope will be next week).
So this is a new concept for me, but a very healthy plant—in veg and in flower—will maximize the natural resistance to fungus/mold and pests. A good measure of overall plant health is brix (pronounced "bricks"), which is a measurement of sugar content commonly used in beer and wine making. For cannabis, we can measure the brix of the juice from a leaf. The instrument for this is called a refractometer, and you can get a decent China one for $15 on the Zon. I actually just got one of these, but haven't used it yet. It's said that a brix level of 9 would be pretty good. At 12 and above, it's said that pests and disease will not be a problem.
Yes I agree completely that proper diet is essential to good health. I was raised eating garbage for food and I was always sick (and this is on top of my other health problems, like autism, etc.).
When I started eating good, my health began to get much better, and through diet and a complete change of lifestyle and the blessed herb and a lot of spiritual practice, my health is way better than before, but I still have susceptibilities.
A Chinese doctor explained it to me one time. He said that you know how some people are great athletes, others are good thinkers, and they have other traits and characteristics that run in families (like autism, cancer, Alzheimer's, etc.), The same is true for the organs. Some people have a strong liver or a weak liver. Some people have strong lungs, or weak lungs. So the genetics definitely play a part, independent of the nutrition and lifestyle factors.
Bummer deal but I have plenty of susceptibilities, which is why I have to take such care with what I consume.

I get sick way less often now (and it is pretty much a rare event), because I try to feed my body the best inputs (so I can pay the grocer, rather than the doctor). And it makes a huge difference, but I still have to guard against the susceptibilities.

I am sure you can take plants with strong natural resistance and starve them, and feed them all the wrong stuff, and they will get weak and susceptible (just like if you fed a world class athlete a bad diet, and he did not feel well, and got sick).

Several factors in the grow contribute to high brix, and I'm starting to learn about this. One big factor is light, so if outdoor plants aren't getting great amounts of sunlight, then this is pretty much a show stopper for high brix. On a very practical level, pot size is a big factor, because if the pot isn't big enough for a living organic soil grow, then there will be problems with the pot getting root bound. (Less of a problem with fabric pots.) In general, you want plenty of nutes and the plant needs to be able to absorb them well. For high brix, you want great growing conditions and all the right nutes. I'm just starting to peer down into the high brix rabbit hole!

I think I know what you are saying, and I think I agree completely. I think indoors under LED in SIP containers is fairly unnatural. I think it works so well because it avoids all of the other pests, and all of the other stressors on the plant. It provides a fairly stable environment that gives the plant everything it needs.
In contrast, I am looking to growing outdoors under the sun (with night interruption lighting), and in ground.
The process was kind of a mess but I think we ended up with the best scenario for my needs on the farm, digging holes and then planting in ground. I need to check out the soil at the river house to see what I am dealing with, but I think I will probably try to dig 15-20 gallon holes in the ground and then just swap out that soil and recondition it after each grow.
(I got some Colombian black soil to mix in with the super soil to put some actual dirt back in the mix! Ha ha 🤣. I am not sure how much dirt I need to use to recondition used super soil, but I guess we can figure that out.)
(There is typically a hard layer of clay at some level. I think the solution is to put gypsum at the bottom of the hole, because gypsum is supposed to break up clay. But we can figure that out also.)

To summarize, all of this goes into natural resistance to fungus/mold and pests for outdoor or greenhouse grows:
  • look for strains/phenos:
    • high terpinolene or ocimene, along with other pine terpenes
    • high resin production
  • lots of sunlight
  • living organic soil
  • big enough pots (e.g. 10 gal); fabric pots if available
  • proper watering with pure water
  • overall plant health using nutrients for high brix
✅ :thumb:

EDIT: but wait, how much of a role does "indica vs sativa" play with the numb-stretchy-yoga thing?
Is that all phenos? Or does indica vs sativa play a role in that?

One last thing... regarding growing in 5gal SIP buckets... I have decided this is most appropriate for indoor grows under bright lights, using soilless or standard potting soil, and synthetic or synthetics-like nutes appropriate for hydro.
Concur.
I think SIP served me very well indoors under LED. (They were fantastic! They took all of my watering woes away. And if indoors is your best option then I think they are stellar. My plants looked way better in SIP than before.)
But I have no time, and I think planting in the ground will be less work, not only because you do not have to shape the plant, but also because the soil handles moisture differently, so there is less watering to do. And so far I have not seen gophers or moles or rabbits (to eat the roots).
They use semi-conditioned creek water in the pipes here, so the water runs brown after a heavy rain 🤢🤢, but I don't think that's going to hurt the plants any. I think that's something I just have to filter out for my own personal use. 🤢
I do not know anything about synthetics or Hydro.
You can read more about my SIP conclusions HERE.
👍
I'm not sure why but I plan to keep my buckets. (And there's really no way to sell used equipment here, even if there was a market for it.)
I'm now in the process of returning to 10 gal nursery pots, and will also be trying out 10 gal fabric.

:ciao:
Sounds good! 👍
I hope you will have the best of success.

Just to ask, did you ever try those air pots??
(I never tried them, I was curious what they are like [besides expensive!])
When I was looking at fabric pots I was thinking that either I could buy a used washing machine to wash them out (that I did not really care about the machine), or else I could take a four prong ice pic to make holes in the sides so that they would still breathe (without a serious washing).
I think maybe everyone's situation is different, but I think it's going to be a better deal for me to plant in ground in the greenhouse, just because there's less watering.
--Haha, and because with these people around here, if I were to grow in pots they might just sneak in in the middle of the night, and carry my pots away!!
I can put a security camera on the greenhouse, and I canget a dog or two (which I will want anyway), but if I plant in ground no one can sneak in and carry off my buckets!! Haha 😂
(Of course they can just chop the stalks and drag off the trees, but that is where the dogs and the security cameras come in, hahaha 😂 .)
 
I have two of the NL CBD sativa-leaner clones in the greenhouse, (if the contractor does not kill them, haha).
We will see how they do flowering inside of a plastic greenhouse when "winter comes" (cooler but drier?? The weather is VERY DIFFERENT here!!)
Keep in mind that life in the greenhouse will be much different than life under your bright indoor LED grow lights.

What I said before...
In southern Colombia, solar noon (angle) of ~90° falls on March 23 and Sept. 19. (Sun is directly overhead.) Solar noon will be at 70° starting Jan. 25, and will reach 80° on Feb. 25. You've got lots of sun March, April, and May. All of June and half of July the solar noon is under 70°. By Aug. 23, solar noon is back to 80° again. All of Sept. and Oct. you've got lots of sun. By Nov. 16, you're back below 70° again, and same for Dec., until Jan. 25 again and the angle is 70°. [ source ]

So you see, you've got two sunny periods at your location, separated by June/July... cool!

Now also consider your rainy/cloudy months, because all of that blocks sunlight.
So, you've got a solar sweet spot from late January to mid July, and another one late August to end of October. Now overlay that to exclude your most cloudy and rainy months (greenhouse mountain location), and you have a good idea when the best growing times are. Cannabis loves sun... gotta have that bright sun to maximize plant health and keep the baddies away.

OK, that sounds good. I will have to look and see which of their seeds have the most terpinolene, pine terpenes, ocimene, myrcene, etc. (This helped me a ton. Thanks for sticking with me till I got it.)
Which are the ones that give the lemon 🍋 or pineapple 🍍 taste?
I don't know, but I would go for the terpinolene dominant, and with that you should see that the other pine terpenes are also high. I think terpinolene actually imparts the flavor you're looking for. The other pine terpenes (pinene, etc) impart a piney and skunky odor/flavor.

I think I know what you are saying, and I think I agree completely. I think indoors under LED in SIP containers is fairly unnatural. I think it works so well because it avoids all of the other pests, and all of the other stressors on the plant. It provides a fairly stable environment that gives the plant everything it needs.
What I was getting at is, the constant, regular high-intensity light contributes to maximum plant health.

Outdoors is a whole different story, and hence... timing your grow(s) to make use of the best solar exposure.

In contrast, I am looking to growing outdoors under the sun (with night interruption lighting), and in ground.
The process was kind of a mess but I think we ended up with the best scenario for my needs on the farm, digging holes and then planting in ground. I need to check out the soil at the river house to see what I am dealing with, but I think I will probably try to dig 15-20 gallon holes in the ground and then just swap out that soil and recondition it after each grow.
(I got some Colombian black soil to mix in with the super soil to put some actual dirt back in the mix! Ha ha 🤣. I am not sure how much dirt I need to use to recondition used super soil, but I guess we can figure that out.)
(There is typically a hard layer of clay at some level. I think the solution is to put gypsum at the bottom of the hole, because gypsum is supposed to break up clay. But we can figure that out also.)
In the holes should work very well. One drawback is that you can't move them around, so the whole greenhouse will be in veg, and then the whole greenhouse will be in flower. Maybe you can set up a separate veg house for cloning and young plants before they are planted in the holes. The veg house needs to be isolated, because you'll be running the night interruption lighting.

EDIT: but wait, how much of a role does "indica vs sativa" play with the numb-stretchy-yoga thing?
Is that all phenos? Or does indica vs sativa play a role in that?
Best to think in terms of pure sativa and pure indica. Or at least strongly indica dominant, and strongly sativa dominant. That said, indica is well known for producing the body high you are talking about. There are also hybrid indica/sativa that will produce a solid body high, because they lean more toward indica.

I'm not sure why but I plan to keep my buckets. (And there's really no way to sell used equipment here, even if there was a market for it.)
Me, too! I'm thinking I will still use the SIP buckets for indica plants. So far, the results have been much better for plants that are strongly indica. I may also experiment some more with them during our solar sweet spot, which is April through end of Sept. This is when the sun is high overhead. But, I am definitely sticking with LOS and organic nutes... no synthetics.

Sounds good! 👍
I hope you will have the best of success.
Thanks. You, too!

Just to ask, did you ever try those air pots??
(I never tried them, I was curious what they are like [besides expensive!])
No, I have no plans for that.

When I was looking at fabric pots I was thinking that either I could buy a used washing machine to wash them out (that I did not really care about the machine), or else I could take a four prong ice pic to make holes in the sides so that they would still breathe (without a serious washing).
I don't think they need cleaning after every grow, and it does matter also what the fabric is made out of. I'm planning to buy some commercial ones and give it a try.

👍
 
Keep in mind that life in the greenhouse will be much different than life under your bright indoor LED grow lights.
I am looking forward to it!!
Only, in my mind I am imagining a USA growing season... but it is not that.
So, I am looking forward to seeing how it really goes here in the land of the perma-12....

What I said before...

So, you've got a solar sweet spot from late January to mid July, and another one late August to end of October. Now overlay that to exclude your most cloudy and rainy months (greenhouse mountain location), and you have a good idea when the best growing times are. Cannabis loves sun... gotta have that bright sun to maximize plant health and keep the baddies away.

Ummmmm.......
Is that better than my current no-brainer plan of just planting in March, and then pulling the lights in late September (after the equilux), when the locals start to flower out, because that is when the local tropical strains automatically flip?
I mean, I know I am not dependent on the time because I will be growing with lights, and I can put lights and pull lights any time---but what are the advantages of NOT doing it otherwise like the landrace people? (Haha!)

I don't know, but I would go for the terpinolene dominant, and with that you should see that the other pine terpenes are also high. I think terpinolene actually imparts the flavor you're looking for. The other pine terpenes (pinene, etc) impart a piney and skunky odor/flavor.
:thumbsup:

1736985982564.png


Ok, I have a Black Jack CBD in the seed drawer. I also have a Delicious Seeds' Juan Herer.
Super Lemon Haze sounds like it needs to be in my garden!
Oh, Durban Poison?? Ok. I never had it but they say it is good.
I like GSC. (Who doesn't??)
Golden Goat sounds funny! Hahaha.
Golden Pineapple sounds good!!

What I was getting at is, the constant, regular high-intensity light contributes to maximum plant health.

Outdoors is a whole different story, and hence... timing your grow(s) to make use of the best solar exposure.
:thumb:
But still I have to ask the question, is that more important than my plan to just plant when the locals plant??
We had a hiccup in the finances, so the move might not happen as soon as we think.
:-(

In the holes should work very well. One drawback is that you can't move them around, so the whole greenhouse will be in veg, and then the whole greenhouse will be in flower. Maybe you can set up a separate veg house for cloning and young plants before they are planted in the holes. The veg house needs to be isolated, because you'll be running the night interruption lighting.
Hmmmm.... could be very possible.
That would call for cloth buckets or SWICK.
I will have to pray about that.
I could be wrong, but I think 20 plants a year is going to be a lot.
Am I lightweight on this forum at 20 plants a year?? Haha (nervous lol, hahaha!!!!)

Best to think in terms of pure sativa and pure indica. Or at least strongly indica dominant, and strongly sativa dominant. That said, indica is well known for producing the body high you are talking about. There are also hybrid indica/sativa that will produce a solid body high, because they lean more toward indica.
Oyyyy.......
But not all indica does that??

Sorry, I need to run right now. I am on deadline tomorrow and I just lost the whole day (and more to do).
Hope to be back later.
Best.

 
Ummmmm.......
Is that better than my current no-brainer plan of just planting in March, and then pulling the lights in late September (after the equilux), when the locals start to flower out, because that is when the local tropical strains automatically flip?
I mean, I know I am not dependent on the time because I will be growing with lights, and I can put lights and pull lights any time---but what are the advantages of NOT doing it otherwise like the landrace people? (Haha!)
It's up to you to analyze what I gave you there, in terms of the solar sweet spots, and excluding the months that are the most cloudy and rainy. For all we know, that's exactly what the locals are doing, but who knows! The solar and rain data is hard data that you can consider.

All the lights do is prevent the flowering of sexually mature photoperiod plants. It has nothing to do with the sun and the rain. What you want is maximum sunshine for the best crop possible. Keep in mind with the local landrace sativas that they are very long life span. Did we decide 4 months veg and 4 months flower for the Mango Biche?

Sunshine is the key, because the max sunshine times of the year will also be the warmest.

1736985982564.png


Ok, I have a Black Jack CBD in the seed drawer. I also have a Delicious Seeds' Juan Herer.
Super Lemon Haze sounds like it needs to be in my garden!
Oh, Durban Poison?? Ok. I never had it but they say it is good.
I like GSC. (Who doesn't??)
Golden Goat sounds funny! Hahaha.
Golden Pineapple sounds good!!
I think I was referring specifically to GTR Seeds... the high-CBD type 3. I think quite a few of their selections show terpinolene dominant phenos.

As for THC plants, again... Afghan Kush and Northern Lights #5 (both indicas) are probably a safe bet for finding phenos that have terpinolene dominant (I am planning to acquire NL#5 seed). I can confirm that some in your list above (Jack Herer, Durban...) are known for high terpinolene, but you will have varied luck there because some of those strains have several phenotypes. The Slymer cut of Chernobyl was on my own list. Trainwreck is a sativa, as is Durban. Jack has several phenos.

In general, it's way easier to find sativas that are high in terpinolene. So take note on the Afghan Kush and NL #5, because they are indicas.

But still I have to ask the question, is that more important than my plan to just plant when the locals plant??
We had a hiccup in the finances, so the move might not happen as soon as we think.
What I said above... "It's up to you...".

I'd say it's much more helpful to understand the actual solar cycle, and which are the most rainy and most cloudy months. And then with that knowledge, interpret what the locals are doing. One would think that the locals know exactly what they are doing, but it would be good to confirm it, to arrive at a deeper understanding.

I could be wrong, but I think 20 plants a year is going to be a lot.
Am I lightweight on this forum at 20 plants a year?? Haha (nervous lol, hahaha!!!!)
Yeah, you'll need to see how it goes.

But not all indica does that??
I would say all strongly indica phenos are going to give you more-or-less this kind of body high. I think the terpene profile plays a big role. In fact, through my research, the science is showing that the effects are directly related to the terpene profiles. So, you've got one group of terpenes responsible for sativa effects (the pine terpenes), and another group of terpenes responsible for indica effects (the non-pine terpenes). When those are balanced, we say the strain/pheno has balanced sativa/indica effects.

:ciao:
 
It's up to you to analyze what I gave you there, in terms of the solar sweet spots, and excluding the months that are the most cloudy and rainy. For all we know, that's exactly what the locals are doing, but who knows! The solar and rain data is hard data that you can consider.
:thumb:
All the lights do is prevent the flowering of sexually mature photoperiod plants. It has nothing to do with the sun and the rain. What you want is maximum sunshine for the best crop possible. Keep in mind with the local landrace sativas that they are very long life span. Did we decide 4 months veg and 4 months flower for the Mango Biche?
I think 4 months to flower, and 4 months minimum. I was thinking to veg them 6 months, to let them grow all the way up.
Then pull the lights and let them flower for 2-4 months, however long they take (by strain).

Sunshine is the key, because the max sunshine times of the year will also be the warmest.
:thumb:
I think I was referring specifically to GTR Seeds... the high-CBD type 3. I think quite a few of their selections show terpinolene dominant phenos.
👍
I will check it out when I get time. My world just got turned on its ear today. The move is on hold at the moment.

As for THC plants, again... Afghan Kush and Northern Lights #5 (both indicas) are probably a safe bet for finding phenos that have terpinolene dominant (I am planning to acquire NL#5 seed). I can confirm that some in your list above (Jack Herer, Durban...) are known for high terpinolene, but you will have varied luck there because some of those strains have several phenotypes. The Slymer cut of Chernobyl was on my own list. Trainwreck is a sativa, as is Durban. Jack has several phenos.
👍
My big plan is to plant the seeds I have, and see what grows out that I like, and maintain clones of those strains.
And if I get males, dig them out and move them to the flower house, or something on that order.
We will have to see how it goes.
In general, it's way easier to find sativas that are high in terpinolene. So take note on the Afghan Kush and NL #5, because they are indicas.
👍
What I said above... "It's up to you...".

I'd say it's much more helpful to understand the actual solar cycle, and which are the most rainy and most cloudy months. And then with that knowledge, interpret what the locals are doing. One would think that the locals know exactly what they are doing, but it would be good to confirm it, to arrive at a deeper understanding.
Yes.
I know that it did get warmer in late September, which is when the farm contractor said that their summer begins.
Ironically, the building contractor has a DIFFERENT definition of when summer is!!!!
It may take me some time to figure it all out--but in the meantime, if I can I can start in late March, and veg all winter.
If need be, I have a seed-and-clone room upstairs I can use to start seeds until we can get moved to the new place.
I will have to confirm, but since it is only a little more than two months away, planting in late March sounds good to try for now.

Yeah, you'll need to see how it goes.
:thumb:
I would say all strongly indica phenos are going to give you more-or-less this kind of body high.
Wow.
Thanks, that is news!

I think the terpene profile plays a big role. In fact, through my research, the science is showing that the effects are directly related to the terpene profiles. So, you've got one group of terpenes responsible for sativa effects (the pine terpenes), and another group of terpenes responsible for indica effects (the non-pine terpenes). When those are balanced, we say the strain/pheno has balanced sativa/indica effects.

:ciao:

Wow.
:thanks:

I have to go, I hope to be back in a couple of days maybe.
I have a production deadline tomorrow, and it looks to be a busy day.
 
It's up to you to analyze what I gave you there, in terms of the solar sweet spots, and excluding the months that are the most cloudy and rainy. For all we know, that's exactly what the locals are doing, but who knows! The solar and rain data is hard data that you can consider.

All the lights do is prevent the flowering of sexually mature photoperiod plants. It has nothing to do with the sun and the rain. What you want is maximum sunshine for the best crop possible. Keep in mind with the local landrace sativas that they are very long life span. Did we decide 4 months veg and 4 months flower for the Mango Biche?

Sunshine is the key, because the max sunshine times of the year will also be the warmest.


I think I was referring specifically to GTR Seeds... the high-CBD type 3. I think quite a few of their selections show terpinolene dominant phenos.

As for THC plants, again... Afghan Kush and Northern Lights #5 (both indicas) are probably a safe bet for finding phenos that have terpinolene dominant (I am planning to acquire NL#5 seed). I can confirm that some in your list above (Jack Herer, Durban...) are known for high terpinolene, but you will have varied luck there because some of those strains have several phenotypes. The Slymer cut of Chernobyl was on my own list. Trainwreck is a sativa, as is Durban. Jack has several phenos.

In general, it's way easier to find sativas that are high in terpinolene. So take note on the Afghan Kush and NL #5, because they are indicas.


What I said above... "It's up to you...".

I'd say it's much more helpful to understand the actual solar cycle, and which are the most rainy and most cloudy months. And then with that knowledge, interpret what the locals are doing. One would think that the locals know exactly what they are doing, but it would be good to confirm it, to arrive at a deeper understanding.


Yeah, you'll need to see how it goes.


I would say all strongly indica phenos are going to give you more-or-less this kind of body high. I think the terpene profile plays a big role. In fact, through my research, the science is showing that the effects are directly related to the terpene profiles. So, you've got one group of terpenes responsible for sativa effects (the pine terpenes), and another group of terpenes responsible for indica effects (the non-pine terpenes). When those are balanced, we say the strain/pheno has balanced sativa/indica effects.

:ciao:

:reading420magazine::reading420magazine::reading420magazine::reading420magazine::reading420magazine::reading420magazine:
:smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin::smokin:

:hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm:
 
Ohhh my.... :rip::rip::rip::rip::rip::rip::rip:
that was a bloodbath!!!!
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

I went to the property today.
I have no idea why, but maybe half the plants were mutated, with single leaves, or three leaves. (I know some people like mutants, but I am on a mutant-free diet.)
It was brutal, but I pulled the 7 plants that did not look good, and we put up the pendant lights around all of the rest. (Probably the mugliest lighting job I have ever done.)

The 5 Mango Biche look ok, if not huge. I expected them to be the biggest things in the tent, but several of the weird-looking mutants were way larger (4 of them). (I do not think the big ones were MB.)
These are 3 of the 5 MB that are left.

IMG_5476.jpeg


This one has been chewed on a bit.

IMG_5477.jpeg


IMG_5480.jpeg


This is SUPPOSED to be a Dr. Seedsman, but isn't.
I have NO IDEA what it is!!
(Some of the plants looked really strange. We just decided to can them and not take a bunch of pictures, because we were short on time, so we decided to focus on the survivors...)

IMG_5489.jpeg


The alleged "Doctor Seedsman 30:1" mostly looked all different from each each other.

IMG_5484.jpeg


This was one of the 4 big ones. It is supposed to be a Dr. Seedsman, but it was at my waist????

IMG_5490.jpeg


We had to scratch our heads a lot :hmmmm: but we figured out how to jury-rig it for now. (I hope it works!)

IMG_5493.jpeg


I put the lights to come on for 15 minutes at midnight.

IMG_5494.jpeg


It turns out that the contractor's son had used very little of the bug spray oils I had left him. (Everything is just sitting there in a box.) Normally the door to the greenhouse is left wide open (and the walls are not really sealed, either).
It seems pretty good that there were that few bug bites in the plants, and he is not using the sprays.

We might be able to salvage a little of this grow. There are 5 regular MB (probably 2-3 full-size THC plants).
I have no idea how many of the Dr. Seedsman are actually Dr. Seedsman.
I am sure that the last plant (waist high) is NOT a Dr. Seedsman.
We will salvage what we can, and start over.

We just got a little money in, and it looks like I am going to move.
We will take our hard hits on this grow, and see if we can salvage anything.
Next grow I will do 20 plants myself. Probably about two months from now.
Because it is two properties I can say that the other grow is for my farm manager (and he likes it), and the new grow is for me (in case anyone asks, which probably no one will).

I will definitely need fencing and dogs for the other grow.
I am definitely taking charge of this next grow.
I will draw up a plan so that the contractor builds things right, to facilitate the lighting on this next one. (Spend an hour on the drawing board to save ten hours in execution.)
Once everything is in place I will pop my own beans.
But that will be a different grow.

I must run. I hope to be back in a day.
This was brutal carnage, but if we can get some mature trees it will be good meds.
I just harvested, so I do not think I will do without.
Good learning.
The contractor needs to stick to the regular crops!
(I had big plans for him!!)
Must run.
Happy growing!
It will be good.

:green_heart::green_heart:

:surf::surf::surf:
 
Hey, Med!
my quick response now... I'll write more later.

The 5 Mango Biche look ok, if not huge.
They're looking pretty good! I'd like to see a close-up of those leaves that have some minor chlorosis (slight yellow mottling).

The alleged "Doctor Seedsman 30:1" mostly looked all different from each each other.

IMG_5484.jpeg
Doesn't look like the Doctor Seedsman that I grew. This kinda looks more indica-dominant, while mine was sativa-dominant.

This was one of the 4 big ones. It is supposed to be a Dr. Seedsman, but it was at my waist????

IMG_5490.jpeg
Nice looking plant! Also doesn't look like the Doctor Seedsman that I grew. Mine had narrow leaflets.

We had to scratch our heads a lot :hmmmm: but we figured out how to jury-rig it for now. (I hope it works!)

IMG_5493.jpeg
💡 👍
looking a bit like my greenhouse!

I put the lights to come on for 15 minutes at midnight.
Great... midnight is the middle of your dark period. You only need 5 min. ... guaranteed.
 
Doesn't look like the Doctor Seedsman that I grew. This kinda looks more indica-dominant, while mine was sativa-dominant.
...
Nice looking plant! Also doesn't look like the Doctor Seedsman that I grew. Mine had narrow leaflets.
Ok, now that I have a bit more time....
Yeah, those plants looked way different than what I had expected. Everything looked different.
This is looking into the greenhouse from the door (which is the other direction from the above photos).
The plant by the door is supposed to be a Dr. Seedsman 30:1???? I don't think so.

backward.jpg


I do not know if you can see the rows that run right to left.
The big girl front and left in the photo is "supposed" to be a Dr. S., but she is way too big. She is on the far right of the very first row, close to the wall by the door.
The row is not in view, but there were two further left that did not look like a Dr. S., and neither one looked right, so I pulled them.
I left the one that looked like a Dr. S, and I also left the big girl in view (basically because even though she is not Dr. S., she looked right).

Then the second row runs from right to left, in front of the pile of pulled (mutated) plants, and the black plastic (which are the recovered LED panel grow lights).
On the right is a big plant (way too big to be Dr. S, as planted), and the remaining three to the left, I can accept that they would be Dr. S (as planted). I would think that they should be a little big bigger than that by now, but I can accept that they might be Dr. S., and they looked good.

The third and fourth row are 5 Mango Biche regulars.
I we can let the best looking male make some pollen and pollinate a branch or two real well, and then destroy the remaining male.

So, about the carnage, here is the backstory.
We do not have a lot of time (and sometimes money is super tight).
Part of my bad is that I figured, "Well, we already have wiring in the greenhouse, so we will just swap out the LED panels for the pendants". So I got lots of light bulbs and pendants, but my bad, I thought "the wiring is in already" so I failed to order enough extension cords and 3-ways (because there are not that many outlets in the greenhouse).
We realized when we got there that we had plenty of pendants and bulbs, but that we needed many more wire splitters and 3-ways. So we had lights to do maybe half the greenhouse. And it seemed like the healthiest plants were all either MB or they were supposed to be DS, so I thought to leave everything that was healthy on that side of the greenhouse, and the wiring just reached (and I ordered a whole bunch more parts for the next greenhouse).
If I had had more lights there was one more I might have tried to save, but we only had so many lights, and I was kind of "up to my neck" with the contractor anyway, and was looking for ways to pull out gently without messing up the rest of the farm operations.

So, another part of the story is that we got a little money in, and we can use it to fix up an old farm caretaker's house. It will kind of be half camping, but there will be plenty of room, and it will be quiet (which is the deciding factor).
Also, as a major super bonus and plus, there is room for a greenhouse, so I can take that back over (and I am sure that I will enjoy it).
Probably we can work a male isolation shack and a clone room. There is not a ton of space but probably enough for that.

Contractor seems to have said whatever he thought I wanted to hear at the time (which is common here, but still a major disappointment). So we will make the best. In a couple of months I will have a greenhouse, and it will be time to start seeds in March, for planting the end of March or early April, and then I can veg them all winter with lights, and then come September we can take clones, pull the lights, and let the girls flower out.
Then I can relax and not worry, because I can oversee it myself.
I just have to get a couple of dogs to guard it. So dogs will be in my life. I can deal.
I guess I will need some cats also, because it is a farm (and you get mice).

💡 👍
looking a bit like my greenhouse!


Great... midnight is the middle of your dark period. You only need 5 min. ... guaranteed.
:thumbsup:
Thanks, Hemp! My timers use 15 minute increments, and that is the easiest cheapest thing to install.
I am already working on a plan for the next greenhouse at my place. Then they can use the full greenhouse for tree tomatoes or whatever.
I will try to put many more 110VAC boxes, and the correct wire mesh so that the light pendants can just drop into place without a lot of haphazard jury rigging.

Is your greenhouse sealed against bugs? Or just mesh walls that are mostly sealed, but still you have a vent?
The reason I ask is that they have not used hardly any of the soap insecticides I brought them. I mixed two liters in two sprayer bottles of garlic-chili-neem mix with Dr. Bronner's Castille, and left them 2 extra liters of soap, and extra garlic-chili-neem mix. He used almost 1-1/2 of the sprayer bottles, but none of the refills. I doubt he is really getting good (if any) coverage, but he said he would use it now.
It seems harder to train them than it would be just to do it myself!
Big sigh....

I think the thing that took all of the time indoors is the cutting and shaping the plants. I think HST means high stress training for the grower, hahahaha!!
I think if you grow plants that are resistant to mold, pm, insects, and plagues outdoors it should be much more relaxing.

Contractor seemed genuinely interested to grow the Colombian Mango Biche, so we can let him grow that out, and also the Dr. S. (plus those two bigger girls, whatever they are).
Mango Biche is a Colombian tropical sativa. It is 5 regulars so maybe 2 or 3 girls. Plus all of the Dr. S. should give some CBD to balance it out.
So I will let him handle that, and I will extricate myself from the situation, and start over. And he can stick to farm production.

I am looking forward to planting beans in March!!
 
Maybe they revegged? That's what plants look like when they start flowering and then get more light.
Yeah, it could be! Good point! I did not think of that.
Hahaha, hey Shed, where were you?? Hahaha (just kidding!!!!).

No, the real deal is that I ordered pendants and bulbs, but not enough extension cords and three-ways.
If I had brought the parts then we could have lit everything up, and probably that would have been better.
But the reality is that we are on super tight deadlines, and that was what I could think of to do at the time without taking another afternoon (which we do not have, because we have extra appointments this week).
So that was what we were able to do at the time.

And quite frankly, it was good to explore the option of using the contractor.
However, the whole thing makes me feel nervous and stressed, which is the exact opposite of what I want cannabis for.
I mean, for all I know, someone came in and switched the plants all around!
I mean seriously, I have two bigger girls growing where there should be tiny Dr. S.???
And the Mango Biche sativa monsters are all super small (i.e., the smallest things in the tent---or maybe that was not really Mango Biche seed that the natural doctor sold me??? It seems hard to know around this place!)

The thing was that some of those plants looked really weird! I mean, shiny single broad oval leaves, more like a camelia! Some really weird stuff.
Probably adding more pendants would have been a better solution but we were out of parts and time.

We sized all of the holes. The MB went in big 50-60G holes. (The plants are tiny.)
The Dr. S went in 10G holes. Two of them are way too big for the holes, and really should be transplanted to a bigger hole. For example the two girls by the door.

backward.jpg


Big sigh....
There are some 15G holes filled in the back that are barely used.
I think we *maybe could transplant those two bigger girls to the back, so that we do not need to get into top-feeding (because organic top-feeding is when you attract all of the bugs).
But the truth is, I am not sure I want to make another special trip out to the farm for those two girls, and re-hanging the pendants, basically to un-mess contractor's work. It takes me and my assistant maybe 5 hours each (so 10 man hours) each time we go out there, and I think let's just let the thing with the contractor doing my medicine go, and start focusing on the next greenhouse.
I have two months. I think I know the basic design they use here that the contractors will know how to put up. They will give me plastic split roof, and if I just put mesh on the walls and leave the mesh door closed it should be good.
Then in hot weather I can roll up the plastic.
Then I just have to take a page from Hemp's book, and plant strains that are mold, pm, insect, and plague resistant.
And then I do not need to deal with contractor.
 
Is your greenhouse sealed against bugs? Or just mesh walls that are mostly sealed, but still you have a vent?
Neither veg or flower house is completely screened in. Veg house has screen walls that are open at the top, below the PVC arch roof w/ plastic. I don't have a bug problem at all. There's just aren't a lot of bugs where I am that would affect the cannabis.

The reason I ask is that they have not used hardly any of the soap insecticides I brought them. I mixed two liters in two sprayer bottles of garlic-chili-neem mix with Dr. Bronner's Castille, and left them 2 extra liters of soap, and extra garlic-chili-neem mix. He used almost 1-1/2 of the sprayer bottles, but none of the refills. I doubt he is really getting good (if any) coverage, but he said he would use it now.
It seems harder to train them than it would be just to do it myself!
Big sigh....
So you do have some bugs to deal with? I never treat my plants unless I see substantial evidence of bugs and/or damage from bugs.

I think the thing that took all of the time indoors is the cutting and shaping the plants. I think HST means high stress training for the grower, hahahaha!!
I think if you grow plants that are resistant to mold, pm, insects, and plagues outdoors it should be much more relaxing.
I personally have no intention to do any training in my outdoor grow. I just do some pruning and topping as needed.

I am looking forward to planting beans in March!
👍
 
Neither veg or flower house is completely screened in. Veg house has screen walls that are open at the top, below the PVC arch roof w/ plastic. I don't have a bug problem at all. There's just aren't a lot of bugs where I am that would affect the cannabis.
Ok, perfect.
So you do have some bugs to deal with? I never treat my plants unless I see substantial evidence of bugs and/or damage from bugs.
Well, yes, there are bad bugs here. I lost two crops indoors to bugs, mites, etc., and an earlier one outdoors.
On my earlier rooftop grow there were a zillion bugs, even with supersoil.
(It is much worse when you organic top-feed, because the rotting draws a zillion bugs, but supersoil seems to have almost no bugs by comparison.)

EDIT: at my new location, my farm manager wants me to let them dig planting holes again, and fill it with supersoil again, and then recondition between grows (like we are doing now).
Yes, there was one spot of yellow on one of the leaves but I think that was overwatering from the cloning stage. In general I thought the green looked good, not that I could possibly recreate that mix again in a million years, hahahaha!!
Anyway, if they want to manually dig the holes, I am happy to treat them like an in-ground bucket.
(We have machines but there are a zillion rocks, so it pretty much has to be dug out. I am not sure if this location has clay yet or not, or just sand. I guess we will see.)

EDIT: About bugs, apparently they did not hardly spray the plants at all. They used only 1-1/2 liters of spray on the whole garden over a month or more??? Ok...
I think bugs can be a big factor because of that earlier male that was all chewed up. (Maybe 1/4 of the leaf mass was gone.)
On the girls, I only saw a few signs of bugs. I saw two of what looked like cricket-munched leaves on two Mango Biche (one leaf each), but only on two leaves--so not a big problem.
I saw one leaf miner-ed leaf on the big "Dr. S. stand-in" next to the door, but nothing had spread.
I think the strategy of screening for mold, pm, insect, and plague-resistant plants is paying off.
I am glad not to spray if there is not a need.

I personally have no intention to do any training in my outdoor grow. I just do some pruning and topping as needed.
Concur.
I might top them to make a bush or I might not.
I will surely clean up the larf, but the normal tree or bush structures work very well outdoors without a lot of work.

Hahaha, concur!!
:thumbsup:
I am looking forward to popping more beans in March!
:meditate:
 
Ok, I hope this is an ok question. They say autistic people are sometimes a little disconnected from normal bodily sensations and feelings (so I'm never sure).
I am trying to take it easy on my lungs. I wondered if I am vaping the ground herb a little too hard, or just right (if that makes sense).
This is what it looks like by the time it starts to taste a little bit burnt to me.
Do I vape more than this? Less than this hard? Or about right?
Meaning, vaping it this hard, is that extracting the right amount of values before changing the herb? (Or too much? Or too little?)
I hope my question makes sense.
I realize that it's probably a matter of personal taste, but I'm trying to get the good stuff without being hard on my lungs.)
(I was going to switch to the cob but I just miss vaping too much!)

This bowl was vaped just a hair harder than usual.

IMG_3047.jpeg


This is the tailings pile that I give to my farm manager, and he makes tea (to help him sleep).

IMG_3049.jpeg


The vape station is just a simple Arizer V tower, and then I run a whip through a small bubbler.
I did notice that it seems to help to let the vaporizer get good and hot before I start to vape, and then just take a small sip at the start of the inhale, and then take air for the rest.
I do not know if anyone else might have any other tips to make it easier.
Thanks. 🙏
 
Hi Med,

I'm not familiar with your vaporizer, nor can I tell how "spent" the tailing are. But one thing I notice is that it looks like your bud isn't ground up very fine. Are you using a grinder? I use a Santa Cruz Shredder, and if my buds are nice and crispy, it grinds them up fine. I put moisture packets in my jars to keep them crispy.

From my experience, w/ my PAX vape, you get better vaping if your buds are ground up fine. The "oven" of my PAX Mini is quite small, but adequate. I just lightly pack in a full load, and usually use 2 loads for a session. Very occasionally 3. I notice that the 2nd load vapes better than the first, I guess cuz the system is heated up.
 
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