I have a little leaf problem: Help

[Nfs]

So my weed plants leads start to discolor in the middle like the pic I provided and the tip of the leaf is crawl and also yellow

can someone please tell me what I am doing wrong so I can fix this problem?

also for PH water, how do you test the PH after you add the nutritions?. Any ph tested that you guys recommend??I got a ph tested off Amazon but it was garbage.
What’s the perfect PH level for the weed plants after you add the nutritions?

thank you

 

[TysonOG]

Looks like a magnesium deficiency to me.
If your in soil, i believe 6.2-6.8 ph is perfect.

 

[013]

There’s different ways to test ph, most use ph pens but there’s cool stuff too like Mr. Krip uses a roll of ph tape, tear off a small section and dip in your nute mix. Add nutes first stir well let settle and test 15 minutes later then make adjustments. Worry about your ph input - disregard the ph of your runoff water that drains out from your plant container

I have a blue labs pen, costs about a hundy also needs 2 bottles of calibration fluid & 1 bottle of storage fluid, don’t let the bulb go dry. Don’t know if other pens have same requirements since it’s the only one I’ve got

for hydro grows ph is lower like 5.5 or jumps to 5.8 to 6.2 for coco, but for soil grows 6.2 to 6.8 ideal is 6.5 but it’s better for plant to see a range of ph so that’s why 6.2-6.8 is recommended

Do you have a cal-mag product? Most nutes hit the NPK requirements but don’t have calcium or magnesium that weed plants need

 

[Nfs]

There’s different ways to test ph, most use ph pens but there’s cool stuff too like Mr. Krip uses a roll of ph tape, tear off a small section and dip in your nute mix. Add nutes first stir well let settle and test 15 minutes later then make adjustments. Worry about your ph input - disregard the ph of your runoff water that drains out from your plant container

I have a blue labs pen, costs about a hundy also needs 2 bottles of calibration fluid & 1 bottle of storage fluid, don’t let the bulb go dry. Don’t know if other pens have same requirements since it’s the only one I’ve got

for hydro grows ph is lower like 5.5 or jumps to 5.8 to 6.2 for coco, but for soil grows 6.2 to 6.8 ideal is 6.5 but it’s better for plant to see a range of ph so that’s why 6.2-6.8 is recommended

Do you have a cal-mag product? Most nutes hit the NPK requirements but don’t have calcium or magnesium that weed plants need

That’s great info sir I am currently using CaMg+ 1-0-0 from general organics. I add one teaspoon to the nutrition mixture after following the nutrition mixture direction for the aggressive vegetation. But I think my pain problem is PH because with everything I add they need to have suggest magnesium and calcium but maybe because PH is not right . The plants are not absorbing correctly . I tried the pens in the past and they were horrible. I might try the strips to be safe

for my nutrition

I use floragro 2-1-6 - for aggressive veg growth they require 3 teaspoon a gallo n

then I use floramicro 5-0-1 and they require 2 tsp a gallon

then I put florabloom 0-5-4 and that’s 1 tsp a gallon

then I add the CaMg+ 1-0-0 and that’s 1 teaspoon a gallon. I mix them all well then give it to the plans.

i didn’t check PH after I added nutritions
Maybe Ph preventing magnesium absorb actions?

 

[013]

Pens will be more accurate than strips I would imagine but there’s many ways to skin a cat. For accurate dosing most of us use a syringe to draw up liquid nutes, but spoon will get the job done too. Yes if ph is off then nutes are not being delivered in a manner that the plant can make most use of, so deficiencies will show. Overall your plants look good - there a little bit of tip burn as you mentioned but that’s ok

 

[Nfs]

Pens will be more accurate than strips I would imagine but there’s many ways to skin a cat. For accurate dosing most of us use a syringe to draw up liquid nutes, but spoon will get the job done too. Yes if ph is off then nutes are not being delivered in a manner that the plant can make most use of, so deficiencies will show. Overall your plants look good - there a little bit of tip burn as you mentioned but that’s ok

Do you think the nutes for the magnesium and calcium is good and the quantity is good?

it just the pens require too much calibration and they are pain in the ass .

so you think it’s my PH? Cus if the plans kept not getting the correct amount , it will not produce well and it will be bad

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

Hello , always add the calmag before your nutes and yes ph is the problem 6.2 for soil and 5.8 for coco, not sure where you think pens are a p.i.t.a but i calibrate my blue lab pen every month and it never goes below 6.9 with a ph 7 solution , , spend the money on a good pen , blue labs or a high end hanna pen , test strips and solution are no where accurate enough for decent results same with ec or ppm pens they are must unless you grow in totally organic soil and use organic nutes , those g.h. nutes are not even close to organic , they are salt based i have used them many times and like them but the ph and ppm with them must be spot on, there is no way to cut corners on mother nature with out creating a whole host of other problems for your self and just because you figure out something that works for the plants you are growing now what happens when you change to a whole different pheno type or class of plant ,indica vs sativa , what works today probably wont work on your next grow every plant is different in its needs . calibrating a pen takes 30 seconds and saves hrs of stress , pick your poison good luck my friend !!

 

[Nfs]

Hello , always add the calmag before your nutes and yes ph is the problem 6.2 for soil and 5.8 for coco, not sure where you think pens are a p.i.t.a but i calibrate my blue lab pen every month and it never goes below 6.9 with a ph 7 solution , , spend the money on a good pen , blue labs or a high end hanna pen , test strips and solution are no where accurate enough for decent results same with ec or ppm pens they are must unless you grow in totally organic soil and use organic nutes , those g.h. nutes are not even close to organic , they are salt based i have used them many times and like them but the ph and ppm with them must be spot on, there is no way to cut corners on mother nature with out creating a whole host of other problems for your self and just because you figure out something that works for the plants you are growing now what happens when you change to a whole different pheno type or class of plant ,indica vs sativa , what works today probably wont work on your next grow every plant is different in its needs . calibrating a pen takes 30 seconds and saves hrs of stress , pick your poison good luck my friend !!

Does it matter to add it before or after the nutes? Cus it mixes with water regardless. Or there is a trick for adding it first? I just bought that blue pin from Amazon I will give it a try. I am using miracle grow organic potting soil. Unless there is a different soil you recommend? Everything in Home Depot and stuff is miracle

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

Does it matter to add it before or after the nutes? Cus it mixes with water regardless. Or there is a trick for adding it first? I just bought that blue pin from Amazon I will give it a try. I am using miracle grow organic potting soil. Unless there is a different soil you recommend? Everything in Home Depot and stuff is miracle

yes the cal mag will precipitate out of the water , it will sink to the bottom of your rez for a easy explanation, the rule of thumb is this if you use all of these additives , silica -1st , then calmag -then the grow - purple stuff then the grow - green stuff then the pink stuff - bloom i would have a ph of 6.2 on the nutes and a ppm of around 250 including the calmag and water every 2-3 days till a small run off happens but i would now give them a watering of calmag only -150 ppm and 6.2 ph those plants are over fed you need to flush some of the nutes out of that soil 1st .like i said you are using organic soil with a salt based fertilizer witch is all right it just means your ph and ppm have to be exact almost , what kind of water are you using ?

 

[Nfs]

yes the cal mag will precipitate out of the water , it will sink to the bottom of your rez for a easy explanation, the rule of thumb is this if you use all of these additives , silica -1st , then calmag -then the grow - purple stuff then the grow - green stuff then the pink stuff - bloom i would have a ph of 6.2 on the nutes and a ppm of around 250 including the calmag and water every 2-3 days till a small run off happens but i would now give them a watering of calmag only -150 ppm and 6.2 ph those plants are over fed you need to flush some of the nutes out of that soil 1st .like i said you are using organic soil with a salt based fertilizer witch is all right it just means your ph and ppm have to be exact almost , what kind of water are you using ?

I am sorry if I am asking dump questions but what’s Selica? I don’t have that . And how to measure ppm? And adjusting it? And I got it so calmag first then the brown stuff then the green stuff then the pink stuff. Got it . And I use tap water. Or
Should I use different kind of water??

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

Hello , i always use silica on my plants , it is a additive that help strengthen the stems and helps fend off bugs , helps plants grow large strong stalks , my plants always have stalks that are a 11/2 -2 inches in diameter and makes plants a lot bushier , that's why plants grown out doors can get to 14 ft tall outside and strong and still endure the wind but it isn't in potting soil , silica is the 2nd most abundant nutrient in outside organic soil but is not added by the manufactures of potting soils , i add 1 cap full to every feed once plants are about 8 inches tall , not for seedlings ,this is when they are into the early parts of veg and into the 2nd week of flower only , get a ppm pen from the big A online , it will also tell you the temp of your water , too cold or to warm , you want your water around 72 degree or 21 degrees Celsius , since you are using tap water be sure to let your water sit for 24 -36 hrs in the open before you add any nutrients to allow the chlorine in the water to evaporate out , not sure where u live but most cities in canada have moved from chlorine to chloramine now witch will not evaporate out of the water and is very detrimental to all living plants , you can go online and check to see what your city is using chlorine or chloramine , just google your city and what the what the water quality is , i am betting when you test your water (with ppm pen )that you are already at 400 -500 ppm already witch leaves no room to add your nutes to it , tap water has tons of salt , mercury arsenic etc in it plus if you have a water softener in your home that adds another ton of salt to the water , plants only need a small micro amount of salt to be healthy , i use r.o. water for my plants and so do most of the experienced growers on here also , r.o. (reverse osmosis or distilled ) water has 0 ppm in it and allows you to custom make your water from scratch - no unwanted shit in it , a blank slate , i know i have rambled on but water and lighting and temps are the 3 big items to cause problems , hope this helps

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

ps besides bugs , now they are another whole set of problems , i hate those little bastards !!!

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

i keep my ppm on my plants around 350 ppm once they are about a ft tall and a lot less when they are a lot smaller and never go over 400 ppm even in to flower , unless they start to show yellowing on the leaves from the inside of the leaf to the edges , if the yellow or brown is on the tip of the leaves only then you are over feeding or the ph is wrong (usually to low but not always ) a good general rule of thumb is yellow means feed them , brown means over fed .leaves curled down usually means over watered , the whole plant drooping means under watered .-too dry

 

[Nfs]

So

i keep my ppm on my plants around 350 ppm once they are about a ft tall and a lot less when they are a lot smaller and never go over 400 ppm even in to flower , unless they start to show yellowing on the leaves from the inside of the leaf to the edges , if the yellow or brown is on the tip of the leaves only then you are over feeding or the ph is wrong (usually to low but not always ) a good general rule of thumb is yellow means feed them , brown means over fed .leaves curled down usually means over watered , the whole plant drooping means under watered .-too dry

okay so what kind of selica do you recommend that I can mix with the water and what ph level is perfect for spoil that give them the perfect nutes?

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

what i use besure to shake well before adding and make sure it is the very 1st thing you add to your water .

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

i use 1 cap full per 10 litersand ph your total water after nutes to 6.2

 

[Nfs]

i use 1 cap full per 10 litersand ph your total water after nutes to 6.2

So 1 teaspoon for the gallon? And I received my nice ph pen. My water is at 6.4 after nutes . Should I drop it down to 6.2? Because if 6.4 and the plants are not absorbing well mean would it suppose to be more?

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

Hello , 6.4 is fine , but i wont go any higher and 6.2 is good also stay between these 2 numbers and you will be fine , get a ppm pen (they are cheap 25 bucks ) so you will know if you under or over feeding your plants , keep a log of what and how much nutrients you gave your plants , i always write down what strength of nutes i gave my plants eg water has 6 ppm in it (i use r.o. water ) i cannot tell you how many ml to use as i dont how much water you are using to start with but i would say at 300 ppm is where you roughly want to end up with ,once you have added all of the different nutes you are using , then use your ph up or down to get to the ph of 6.2-6.4 .i keep a log of how much of each item i put in my water and keep a record of the last 3 waterings/feed ,eg 5 ml of silca then 15 ml of calmag then 15 ml of the micro (purple stuff ) 15 ml of grow (green stuff ) then 15 ml of bloom (pink stuff) , take a ph reading and a ppm reading after all of this is in .you will have to play around with the exact amounts of nutes needed to get to the ppm of of about 300-350 , ph the water after all this to 6.2-6.4 . i like to let the water sit for 30 minutes after the adding of the nutes before i ph it as to make sure they have thoroughly mix in with each other and the water , i use a erasable white board to keep track of what i had done on the previous watering .yellow means more nutes and brown tips means less nutes as a general rule of thumb and fading between the veins on the interior part of the leaves is usually a sign of more calmag needed or a ph that is too high or low for that plant type , some plants like it more acidic (lower ph 6.0 ) and some like it higher (6.5-6.6) , this is where you will have to play around alittle to see what your plants like keep a good eye on the bottom leaves and the new leaf growth at the top of your plants they will tell the shape of your plants as to how happy they are and if they like what you are giving them once a leaf has turned yellow or brown it will not go back to a green colour just worry about the new growth on the top , once you flip your plants to flower you will want to back off on the amount of grow (green stuff ) and increase the amount of bloom (pink stuff).ask away if you have more questions i dont mind helping at all send some pics and i can help advise on what i see going on , sorry about carring on but it is all the things i learnt along the ways of many years of growing and i am still learning as every plant clone etc is different the secret is to be able to watch the leaves on your plant and understand what it telling you !

 

[Nfs]

Hello , 6.4 is fine , but i wont go any higher and 6.2 is good also stay between these 2 numbers and you will be fine , get a ppm pen (they are cheap 25 bucks ) so you will know if you under or over feeding your plants , keep a log of what and how much nutrients you gave your plants , i always write down what strength of nutes i gave my plants eg water has 6 ppm in it (i use r.o. water ) i cannot tell you how many ml to use as i dont how much water you are using to start with but i would say at 300 ppm is where you roughly want to end up with ,once you have added all of the different nutes you are using , then use your ph up or down to get to the ph of 6.2-6.4 .i keep a log of how much of each item i put in my water and keep a record of the last 3 waterings/feed ,eg 5 ml of silca then 15 ml of calmag then 15 ml of the micro (purple stuff ) 15 ml of grow (green stuff ) then 15 ml of bloom (pink stuff) , take a ph reading and a ppm reading after all of this is in .you will have to play around with the exact amounts of nutes needed to get to the ppm of of about 300-350 , ph the water after all this to 6.2-6.4 . i like to let the water sit for 30 minutes after the adding of the nutes before i ph it as to make sure they have thoroughly mix in with each other and the water , i use a erasable white board to keep track of what i had done on the previous watering .yellow means more nutes and brown tips means less nutes as a general rule of thumb and fading between the veins on the interior part of the leaves is usually a sign of more calmag needed or a ph that is too high or low for that plant type , some plants like it more acidic (lower ph 6.0 ) and some like it higher (6.5-6.6) , this is where you will have to play around alittle to see what your plants like keep a good eye on the bottom leaves and the new leaf growth at the top of your plants they will tell the shape of your plants as to how happy they are and if they like what you are giving them once a leaf has turned yellow or brown it will not go back to a green colour just worry about the new growth on the top , once you flip your plants to flower you will want to back off on the amount of grow (green stuff ) and increase the amount of bloom (pink stuff).ask away if you have more questions i dont mind helping at all send some pics and i can help advise on what i see going on , sorry about carring on but it is all the things i learnt along the ways of many years of growing and i am still learning as every plant clone etc is different the secret is to be able to watch the leaves on your plant and understand what it telling you !

So if my plants showing that yellow in the middle like in the pic I posted with ph of 6.4 does that mean I need to make the ph for that plan more than 6.4 or lower?

and I will order the ppm pin. How do you adjust the ppm in the water ?

and lastly based on hydro recommended setups they want 15ml with green , 10ml brown, and 5ml pink. And lastly 5ml of calmag and 5ml selica that I ordered and going to start adding .

should I stick to what they tell me or should I do like urs?

 

[NOOOBIENOT]

use a ph of 6.3-6.4 and add more calmag to your feed , you adjust ppm when you are adding nutes to the water all the ppm pen is doing is telling you how strong your water is ppm stands for parts per millon so for eg 300 ppm means there are a total of 300 parts per million of nutrients in that batch of water so to increase ppm just add more nutes to that batch or if it is too high then just add more water only to drop the amount of ppm the goal is around 300 to 350 ppm , the ppm meter does not tell you how much nitrogent is in there or phosporus or potacium or calcium etc it only reads a grand total of every thing in water use the ppm pen to tell what the base number is before you even add any nutes to , eg say its 120 so now you know you need to add about 280 ppm worth of nutes, i always add my silica 1st to my water so this adds ppm then my calmag so this adds ppm to the water then my other nutrients small amounts of silica is all that is needed about 5 ml worth and then about 15 ml of cal mag etc , i use syringes from the local drug store to get the exact amount of ml needed for each batch get 1 syringe for each one of the nutes you are adding and besure to wash them out thoroughly after each use , the manufactures are recomending these number as a full strength amout not as a regular use amount , i have never got to the full strenght amount they recomend it causes tip burn , i start at half of what they recomend then move from there up or down in the amounts given , besure to split the 3 part nutrients you are using into 3 equal parts per bottle , except once you are in flower then decrease the grow (green ) and increase the bloom (pink )flowering plants require more phosphorus and potasium and less nitrogen follow my instruction , the manufacturer doesnt know if you grow weed or pumpins it just a guide they post mine is for weed .