I have a problem, Leaves Are Turning Colors, They Are Also Cupping

KingSparta

New Member
Does anyone know what might be going on with these plants, and what should I do to correct the issue.

I have no real testing equipment right now, and could use some guidance.

1. I do have a Moisture meter probe.
2. A 4 in one Probe (Fertility, Light, Moisture, PH)

I am not all that sure the probes are accurate.

I have flushed the soil for past 3 days with water only, but seems to be getting worse. 3 days ago I trimmed 5 dyeing leaves, and now there is a new one.

I backed off the light (40,000 lumens) to about 12 inches

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Put up a sticky card (you can make your own with tanglefoot goo and card stock paper from walmart) look for flying black insects attracted to light.

Looks like you could have root Aphids. Maybe fungus gnats. If no sign of bugs you may have a PH or nutrification issue. Get a PH test kit. Water with properly pHed water at 6.5pH using vinegar as pH up if your water is too basic. Which it probably is.

Also WATER SPARINGLY. Flushing for three days is causing a lack of oxygen in your containers. This will form an anaerobic environment that is very bad for the microlife, roots, and therefore plant health in general.

Water thoroughly when conditions are drought-like. This will also deter new soil-based infestations and help conreol the current one. If there is one. Let me know what you observe!

:Namaste:
 
The analog meters suck. Digital is best, BUT you can make it work for you, as a lot of growers before you have done.

Fertility, I'd ignore completely. Add nutes when you need to, not when a meter tells you. I refuse to believe that a $6 meter will tell me when my NPK levels are too low, and I definitely doubt it has the capacity to measure micronutrient levels as well.

Moisture level, it helps. I use this function, and PH. The light meter is more of a novelty than anything.

Now we get down to the questions!

What is your soil PH?
What type of soil is it? What is in it?
What is the PH of water and nutes you are feeding?

What nutrients are you feeding? Are they time release nutrients?

Cutting off a leaf that shows a problem will not stop the problem. I leave my ugly leaves on so I can watch the spots closely. When you remove that leaf, the problem just appears on another leaf, and continuing to remove these leaves will kill your plant in short order.

What kind of light are you using? Ignore lumens. Is it fluorescent? LED? CFL? MH/HPS?
What is the wattage?
What distance was the light from the top of your canopy?
What is the temperature and humidity in your grow room?
 
Put up a sticky card (you can make your own with tanglefoot goo and card stock paper from walmart) look for flying black insects attracted to light.

Looks like you could have root Aphids. Maybe fungus gnats. If no sign of bugs you may have a PH or nutrification issue. Get a PH test kit. Water with properly pHed water at 6.5pH using vinegar as pH up if your water is too basic. Which it probably is.

Also WATER SPARINGLY. Flushing for three days is causing a lack of oxygen in your containers. This will form an anaerobic environment that is very bad for the microlife, roots, and therefore plant health in general.

Water thoroughly when conditions are drought-like. This will also deter new soil-based infestations and help conreol the current one. If there is one. Let me know what you observe!

:Namaste:

Digital PH test kit On The Way, This Analog Meter States The Soil PH Is An 8, it also states My supply water is an 8.

No Signs Of Bugs In The Grow Room, I Do Have Glue Boards Down.

I only flushed One Of Pots To See If It Helped. Others have not been watered for 48 hours. Pots have holes for run off water.

I did see one cricket, that I captured on the glue board, I know it came in with the new soil I have not used yet.
 
Digital PH Testing Kit On The Way

It Was Miracle gro Potting Soil (I know, I have done wrong) For the last two months without problems. Since I did not have an issue I have not been adding Nutrients due to it had some in the soil and did not want to over fertilize. I do have A General Hydroponics Go Box, I only used once.
I was using a liquid rooting compound (for a month), it does have some nutrients in it.

The Lights:

Distance 10 inches, I raised them to see if it helped, Was about 5 inches

T5 Fluorescent HO 4ft 8 Lamp Fixture by Grow Crew with 6500k bulbs

Imported European 95% High Reflectivity Aluminum Reflector
Each bulb is 54w, giving the unit a total of 432w of total light output
This economical 2 x 4 foot light source produces up to 40,000 lumens

Grow room Temp Is 72
I don't know the humidity, I will order a meter
just an FYI they are about 21 inches high
 
Looks like possible nute lockout due to pH issues. Potassium deficiency is one that springs to mind, but could be others too...
 
I just ordered a better PH meter, and some PH Up, And PH down From General hydroponics.

Maybe what I should do Is resume, normal feeding for now.
 
Well, PH the water to 6.5 and water only when soil is VERY dry, and water thoroughly. Should be good to go after that, unless there are root aphids..

I had problems I could never solve till I realized it was root aphids after a couple crops. They just didn't go airborne for months so I couldn't identify them. :(
 
Well, I have only got rid of them in one of my flowering rooms.
The other still seems to have some stragglers. I am thinking of making a thread on Root Aphids and how to get rid of them. It might become a sticky because it is really important and more people probably have them unknowingly.

I did a lot of things. A LOT. But techniques aside a product I would recomend is Mycotrol O. I used Botanigard in my multi-method assault on the aphids, but Mycotrol O is the organic version. I would have used Mycotrol, but I didn't know Botaniguard had petroleum distillates in it... :(
 
Mycotrol is a mycorrhizal/beneficial formulation?

Mycotrol O is a fungal organism suspended in solution. It penetrates the exoskeleton of insects living in the soil. It eats them spreading throughout their body and then sporulating. Expelling its seed from the carcass.
 
The cheap meter's moisture meter works fairly well. I like to wait until before the needle hits the red, like JUST BEFORE it goes red to water, that works out to 4-5 days between waterings.

You're going to love having a digital PH meter. But remember, it IS possible for your tap water to have a PH of 8. To test the accuracy of the analog meters, it's best to use distilled deionized water, which should have a neutral PH of 7.

Once you have the meter, any time you spot a problem, check your PH before doing anything else. When you know the PH, you'll have a good start on how to proceed in fixing the problem from there.
 
What antics said! You can have a pH test kit in hand by the end of the day for less than ten bucks. Just go to your local indoor gardening store and ask for this. General Hydroponics pH Test Indicator
Super simple cheap and easy way to test.

Get a huge jug of vinegar - Great Value: Distilled White Vinegar, 64 Oz - Walmart

It's cheaper than pH adjustment products, organic and works just fine if not better when used with soil based growth mediums.

All you have to do is figure out how much vinegar it takes to adjust your water by adding vinegar until the pH tests perfect. Then you never have to use the test kit again as long as your water pH never fluctuates. I'd test it seasonally to make sure it isn't changing. After a heavy rain or snow melt my well water's pH drops a bit.

:)
 
I have used lemon juice. No problem, just switched to vinegar because it's cheaper.

Also I would rather have salt n' vinegar potato chips instead of salt n' GenHydro pH-down chips, but that's personal preference. :)

I like that I can get vinegar on my hands, but the pH-up/down burns.. :(
 
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