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I need a good super soil recipe

PCaddict

Active Member
This is my 4 plants I have in a Big greenhouse they look lost but next year we will do more cannabis plants as well as other plants ie. Tomatoes Bell peppers etc.
 

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PCaddict

Active Member
The smallest one is an auto flower the second smallest was a clone off of the biggest one and the second largest was also a clone taken a few weeks earlier. I am hoping they will finish before it gets too cold I am in Ohio southern part. The auto flower is now budding but the others are still in Veg. The other small one will probably have to finish inside.
 

PCaddict

Active Member
If you buy from buildasoil you might as well buy the Oly Mountain Modern Mix 2 living organic soil.
It has everything in it in the correct quantities.
Just add a cover crop, worms, mycorrhazae inoculate and some Gro-kashi on top.
Thank you So much this is the type of advice I was looking for
 

PCaddict

Active Member
The Oly Mountain Modern Mix 2 living organic soil is sold out in the smaller quantities so it is $430 TOO much for me I cant afford that. If it becomes available in the smaller more affordable quantities I will order some. If not I may order the CC blend.
 

PCaddict

Active Member
When I do build a good soil can I plant in one of my 10 gal. fabric pots ? Or should I transplant from 1 gal. to a 5 gal. then to a 10 gal. pot ? I also have some 30 gal. pots can I plant the seed sprout right in a larger pot ? When winter comes I am going to start some plants indoors then move them to the greenhouse at the end of March weather permitting
 
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Dankman_420

Well-Known Member
Subcool has lots of videos on YouTube for what he recommends. He suggested to only use it for the bottom half of the pot and less hot soil for the top. Like roots organic. It has to compost for 6 - 8 weeks before use. I just put it in 5 gallon buckets ( bottom 2/3rds ) and transplanted 1 gallon pots into it. I used ffof to fill top of the buckets. My plants got minor leaf burn on the tips. Then they settled in and have exploded. I'll be flowering those in couple weeks. Stop by and see the progress
 

Nunyabiz

Well-Known Member
I think this tip on buildasoil site makes some relevant points on ingredients.


I know 99 out of 100 people on this site will all say to repot, repot, repot into final pot which is usually a 5 gallon plastic bucket.

As far as I am concerned that's just nonsense and totally unnecessary if you use large fabric pots and your soil is properly aerated from day one.
If you're talking growing outdoor in that greenhouse then personally I would simply plant the germinated seed right into the final fabric pot and if you have 30 gallons then use it.
I use 25 gallon for indoor.
If your soil is right, you put a couple hundred worms in each pot, plant a cover crop, then you would really have to be stupid to overwater, the soil especially if you water everytime with Yucca in the water will disperse the water evenly, the fabric pot " on a pot elevator" literally wicks water out of the pot to where you shouldn't even have a perched water table, the worms aerate the top 5 to 6" pretty thoroughly, the cover crop sucks up water and the roots keep the soil loose so overwatering in this type of a pot and doing no-till is not much of a concern.
The seedlings roots spread out fast and will fill a 30 gallon pot.

So I say plant right into the final 30 gallon pot.
If you are going to plant in small pots especially plastic and just use regular bagged soil then probably better to start in a solo cup, go to 2 gallon then 5 or whatever.
But absolutely zero need for that in a large no-till fabric pot as long as you have your soil tilth right. If your soil is mud then doesn't matter what kind of pot its in, you'll have problems.

The only time it's a good idea to start a seed in a solo cup if you're growing in 25+ gallon no-till fabric pots is if you want to grow an autoflower in that pot, even though general consensus is dont transplant autoflowers, it's just fine if you start the seed in solo cup and then very carefully transplant into the main pot when seedling is about 10 days old, by then the roots will be just touching the sides and bottom of solo cup and nothing should be disturbed at all.
Reason being is if you have a lot of worms they will disturb the hell out of the poor autoflower and usually stunt it and its game over for an autoflower.
A photo-period can grow right on through it.
An autoflower that's been given time to get a good root system wont be bothered by the worms tunneling around but when it's only a few days old the worms can knock it over and stunt it.

I am not referring to a "supersoil" here, if you go with 30 gallon pots your best bet is just a quality Clackamas Coots soil recipe like the Oly Mountain Modern mix 2 as a living organic soil and do no-till.
Add worms and mycorrhazae and plant a cover crop and the soil does 98% of the work for you.
 
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Nunyabiz

Well-Known Member
The Oly Mountain Modern Mix 2 living organic soil is sold out in the smaller quantities so it is $430 TOO much for me I cant afford that. If it becomes available in the smaller more affordable quantities I will order some. If not I may order the CC blend.
Shows it in stock when I look.
That's weird.
 

PCaddict

Active Member
Subcool has lots of videos on YouTube for what he recommends. He suggested to only use it for the bottom half of the pot and less hot soil for the top. Like roots organic. It has to compost for 6 - 8 weeks before use. I just put it in 5 gallon buckets ( bottom 2/3rds ) and transplanted 1 gallon pots into it. I used ffof to fill top of the buckets. My plants got minor leaf burn on the tips. Then they settled in and have exploded. I'll be flowering those in couple weeks. Stop by and see the progress
I have got 2 bags of FF Ocean Forest along with some of the other ingredients. I will watch his videos too. Thanks for the info....:51:
 

PCaddict

Active Member
I think this tip on buildasoil site makes some relevant points on ingredients.


I know 99 out of 100 people on this site will all say to repot, repot, repot into final pot which is usually a 5 gallon plastic bucket.

As far as I am concerned that's just nonsense and totally unnecessary if you use large fabric pots and your soil is properly aerated from day one.
If you're talking growing outdoor in that greenhouse then personally I would simply plant the germinated seed right into the final fabric pot and if you have 30 gallons then use it.
I use 25 gallon for indoor.
If your soil is right, you put a couple hundred worms in each pot, plant a cover crop, then you would really have to be stupid to overwater, the soil especially if you water everytime with Yucca in the water will disperse the water evenly, the fabric pot " on a pot elevator" literally wicks water out of the pot to where you shouldn't even have a perched water table, the worms aerate the top 5 to 6" pretty thoroughly, the cover crop sucks up water and the roots keep the soil loose so overwatering in this type of a pot and doing no-till is not much of a concern.
The seedlings roots spread out fast and will fill a 30 gallon pot.

So I say plant right into the final 30 gallon pot.
If you are going to plant in small pots especially plastic and just use regular bagged soil then probably better to start in a solo cup, go to 2 gallon then 5 or whatever.
But absolutely zero need for that in a large no-till fabric pot as long as you have your soil tilth right. If your soil is mud then doesn't matter what kind of pot its in, you'll have problems.

The only time it's a good idea to start a seed in a solo cup if you're growing in 25+ gallon no-till fabric pots is if you want to grow an autoflower in that pot, even though general consensus is dont transplant autoflowers, it's just fine if you start the seed in solo cup and then very carefully transplant into the main pot when seedling is about 10 days old, by then the roots will be just touching the sides and bottom of solo cup and nothing should be disturbed at all.
Reason being is if you have a lot of worms they will disturb the hell out of the poor autoflower and usually stunt it and its game over for an autoflower.
A photo-period can grow right on through it.
An autoflower that's been given time to get a good root system wont be bothered by the worms tunneling around but when it's only a few days old the worms can knock it over and stunt it.

I am not referring to a "supersoil" here, if you go with 30 gallon pots your best bet is just a quality Clackamas Coots soil recipe like the Oly Mountain Modern mix 2 as a living organic soil and do no-till.
Add worms and mycorrhazae and plant a cover crop and the soil does 98% of the work for you.
Thank You So Much :thumb: This info helps a lot. I did transplant the auto flower from a 1 gal. to a 2 gal. fabric pot. Its is in the photos, Its the one that is budding. I like how the feminized seeds and the clones have done so I am not sure I will grow any more Autoes the yelled is just too low I plan to buy a 4x4 grow tent for winter along with the lights carbon filter/exhaust fan etc. But I know for sure I am going to build a living soil so if I cant afford it all which I am sure I cant I will concentrate on the soil first....Let it cook maybe sprout a few plants for the Green House next year. In Ohio cannabis prices at dispensaries is $49.99 for low to mid tear and $59.99 for higher tear, 1 tenth of an Oz. So $600 an Oz. I cant afford that so I want to grow my own medicine. I have a bad back and Chronic Pain along with other reasons and I want to grow the cleanest I can with less work while the plant is growing. I know building a good living soil is the most important thing I can do and I know it is a little work and time building soil but the rewards from what I have seen is well worth it. :nomo:
 

PCaddict

Active Member
I would like to say Thank You to all the members who have given input. I am new to growing cannabis so I hope to steal a lot of knowledge from the members on this forum.....:snowboating:
 

PCaddict

Active Member
What does everyone think of this soil mix. I hope I will not get into trouble for posting a link. If I am not suppose to post a link like this Please let me know.
 

PCaddict

Active Member
Start off by doing a search with your favorite search engine using the term:
Super Soil

You should be able to find links to about 3 or 4 different recipes in a matter of seconds. Look at the recipes, either write them down or print them out. Read what is said about why each recipe is supposed to be one of the absolute best. Figure out why the person who developed the recipe came up with the ingredients he or she did. Take your recipes to the store and see what is available.

The list of stuff you have bought already is to much and not everything that is needed. More research and reading will help you build a super soil that is tailored to your growing method.

A basic starter mix is 1 part peat moss, 1 part mineral soil and 1 part Perlite. There are reasons for each. This is good starter for growing just about anything from flowers to vegetables.

To that mix you will have to add your amendments which should some basics. These can be Kelp, Shrimp or Crustacean Meal, Neem Seed meal, and some crushed mineral rock. And, the magic stuff is to add some innoculated Bio-Char which should end up being about 10% of the final mix.

Since you have already started buying stuff....well, you are buying more than you need, not enough of some others and buying stuff that is unnecessary. Well, stop buying stuff until you are ready and understand what you need for a decent super soil.

Try not to open any packaging yet. Some of them you might be able to take back. One example is the Mykos. The beneficial bacteria that you would be using that for are already in the compost and the earthworm castings. That was an unnecessary expense at this time. Not sure why you need the Diatomaceous Earth. Oh, you will need it but in the future do not pay extra for Organic Perlite. Perlite is made by humans from volcanic rock, it is not artificial or made with crude oil, all Perlite is in and of itself organic.

Lot of reading to do, but when you have the list together and understand why the items are on that list you will realize just how great you super soil will be once you are done mixing.

Have fun reading the new info.
From looking at others recipes I was going to use Diatomaceous Earth for silica and bug prevention. Thanks for the feed back. I am still researching what to use and why.
 

Nunyabiz

Well-Known Member
Thank You So Much :thumb: This info helps a lot. I did transplant the auto flower from a 1 gal. to a 2 gal. fabric pot. Its is in the photos, Its the one that is budding. I like how the feminized seeds and the clones have done so I am not sure I will grow any more Autoes the yelled is just too low I plan to buy a 4x4 grow tent for winter along with the lights carbon filter/exhaust fan etc. But I know for sure I am going to build a living soil so if I cant afford it all which I am sure I cant I will concentrate on the soil first....Let it cook maybe sprout a few plants for the Green House next year. In Ohio cannabis prices at dispensaries is $49.99 for low to mid tear and $59.99 for higher tear, 1 tenth of an Oz. So $600 an Oz. I cant afford that so I want to grow my own medicine. I have a bad back and Chronic Pain along with other reasons and I want to grow the cleanest I can with less work while the plant is growing. I know building a good living soil is the most important thing I can do and I know it is a little work and time building soil but the rewards from what I have seen is well worth it. :nomo:
Jeebus, $600 an oz is criminal.
For the past 4 years I've averaged about $8 an oz for better bud than what's available in dispensaries.

I kinda felt the same way about autoflowers because they are so finicky.
BUT, if you can get autoflowers dialed in then you should be able to get at least as much yield month by month as you do with photo-periods. (INDOORS) I really don't think autos are suited for outdoor grows.
Most autoflowers are seed to harvest in about 8 to 10 weeks.
Photo-periods if you want a good yield is about 16 to 18 weeks.
Photo-periods I get a minimum of 16 oz from 2 plants in an average of 17 weeks.
My autoflower I harvested back in May was just under 5 oz.
If I can average 4 oz per plant then I should be able to get a minimum of 8 oz for 2 plants in half the time as photo-periods with the possibility of much more.
Its entirely possible to get up to and over 8oz per autoflower and get it in half the time.
It's also possible to get basically nothing.
You can also start autoflowers in the same space while you're about to harvest others because the lighting is the same.
So you can start a couple autoflowers 2 weeks prior to current harvest, then plant those day after harvest and have another crop in 6 to 7 weeks.

So, if you can get autoflowers really dialed in you can get incredible yield.

I am about to start a couple autoflowers right now and within 2 weeks of harvest will start 2 more and see what that will yield vs a single photo-period grow.

If I can average 5oz per auto in under 10 weeks then it would equal or beat what I can get with photo-periods.
For me that's nice because I can only grow 2 plants at a time so that would give me a better selection.
 

PCaddict

Active Member
I have herd that about autos and we only have one so my experience is very limited and my buddy had it at his place for about a month before I got it. It is in the greenhouse and not indoors so maybe those factors limited it. I will try some autos when I get the tent and all the other stuff . I am not sure even with all the equipment I can do indoor growing, My wife Hates the smell. She can tell when I get my stash out of the sealed container and load a bowl hours before she comes home and its not really dank smelling weed and I take it outside to light it up, so I am not sure a tent and carbon filter is going to work. If Mommy isn't happy no body is happy...….. :confused: She can smell it in the greenhouse as soon as she walks outside and the greenhouse isn't that close to the house. I don't know how she can smell it so much, I cant :cool:
 
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