BigIrishDoode
Fallen Cannabis Warrior
booooooooootifuuuuuuuuuuuul!!!!!
Icemud's Grow 5.0 - Perpetual Grow - Gas Lamp Routine - Mineralized Soil
- Thread starter Icemud
- Start date
im pretty sure we have a form of GM strains, G13 is suppose to be a gm strain, produced by forcing a plant to to go polyploid then used to cross with other plants to produce some very potent strains, its just producing poly plants is a bit risky as you have to use the roots of a certain plant to put the seeds in then any that survive have the chance of turning out as a polyploid, then thats used to cross with a regular strain to create a potent strain,
plus look at the name G13, whats the 13th letter of the alphabet, hmmm its M, so fits in nicely with the GM meaning, again not sure if it can be proven but their are a few strains related to the polyploid plants, safe to smoke but still its messing with the genetics in a really harsh way, produces interesting results though, search the net for polyploid cannabis and check out some of the pics, some of the buds it produces are huge and can produce double thc and cbn levels, ducksfoot strains are suppose to be a form of polyploid, i dont know a lot about it so cant go into detail, your suppose to be able to force a plant to go polyploid by defoliation to an extreme form but tried it and it dont work, at least not worked for me yet,
plus look at the name G13, whats the 13th letter of the alphabet, hmmm its M, so fits in nicely with the GM meaning, again not sure if it can be proven but their are a few strains related to the polyploid plants, safe to smoke but still its messing with the genetics in a really harsh way, produces interesting results though, search the net for polyploid cannabis and check out some of the pics, some of the buds it produces are huge and can produce double thc and cbn levels, ducksfoot strains are suppose to be a form of polyploid, i dont know a lot about it so cant go into detail, your suppose to be able to force a plant to go polyploid by defoliation to an extreme form but tried it and it dont work, at least not worked for me yet,
glad you had a great harvest, i might try the dark method with my auto i got so ill take some close up pics before i put it in the dark then take some after 2 or 3 days of dark and see how it compares,
your plants look very healthy, a nice shade of green
your plants look very healthy, a nice shade of green
- Thread starter
- #484
Hey everyone, Here is my update for tonight. I shot some quick photo's of my veg tent after watering them today. I had a mix of 5gallons of r/o water with a small scoop of alfalfa meal and a small scoop of kelp meal on bubble, mixed with some 2-3-1 hydrolyzed squid on bubble for 24 hours. The plants have really bounced back fast from my pruning and already I see many new tops forming 
I should be transplanting this weekend if all goes as planned and moving some of them over to the flower tent.
I still am seeing damage from the damn spider mites so I may have to get some other kind of spray or even some lady bugs when I throw them into flower so that I don't have issues when buds start forming.
If you wanna know what spider mites do to leaves, here are a few shots of my blue dream leafs...
I needed to clear some extra curing jars for the newly harvested buds to go into in a couple days and still have a ton of blue dream and pre98 bubba left from my past grows. I think most of this may go to a thc/cbd oil project or maybe butter too wish I had one of those magic butters
I trimmed my 2 remaining flowering plants, the University Hill's OG and the SFV OG. They had been in total darkness for over 48 hours and I knew I had to save them from the trips, those hungry little bastards. My leafs were completely brown on the plants due to these thrips but the buds were undamaged for the most part. Overall the trimming went well and only the lower buds seemed to be destroyed by the thrips as well as most of the leaves. I only kept the good buds and the rest is trash. After each plant was trimmed and manicured I did the 2 part budwash as I have done in the past and hung them to dry. I love trimming OG's because they are so easy with a low leaf to bud ratio. The scissors were definitely caked and had to be cleaned a few times per plant...nice..finger hash Overall I got a pretty good haul I think off of the OG's, the UVH definitely was a better yield howerver the SFV og seemed to be nicer looking buds.
UVH OG
SFV OG
All hanging to dry
I should be transplanting this weekend if all goes as planned and moving some of them over to the flower tent.
I still am seeing damage from the damn spider mites so I may have to get some other kind of spray or even some lady bugs when I throw them into flower so that I don't have issues when buds start forming.
If you wanna know what spider mites do to leaves, here are a few shots of my blue dream leafs...
I needed to clear some extra curing jars for the newly harvested buds to go into in a couple days and still have a ton of blue dream and pre98 bubba left from my past grows. I think most of this may go to a thc/cbd oil project or maybe butter too
wish I had one of those magic butters
I trimmed my 2 remaining flowering plants, the University Hill's OG and the SFV OG. They had been in total darkness for over 48 hours and I knew I had to save them from the trips, those hungry little bastards. My leafs were completely brown on the plants due to these thrips but the buds were undamaged for the most part. Overall the trimming went well and only the lower buds seemed to be destroyed by the thrips as well as most of the leaves. I only kept the good buds and the rest is trash. After each plant was trimmed and manicured I did the 2 part budwash as I have done in the past and hung them to dry. I love trimming OG's because they are so easy with a low leaf to bud ratio. The scissors were definitely caked and had to be cleaned a few times per plant...nice..finger hash
Overall I got a pretty good haul I think off of the OG's, the UVH definitely was a better yield howerver the SFV og seemed to be nicer looking buds.UVH OG
SFV OG
All hanging to dry
- Thread starter
- #485
Hey Ice, big update there buddy!! Hoping things have been well over ur side of the fence
Im going along still at day 41 flower and my girls showing some Banana's now ... Not excited bout that, Ive plucked the ones I could with tweezers but I am unsure on what the future will result in, Hoping it wont affect her bud growth much???
Your nugs looked YUMMY bro
Hey Smokemup!! Thanks for stopping on by! Sorry to hear about your banana's, I've had them a couple times on past grows, I found mine was due to the little red light on my power strip. I covered the switch with some black electrical tape and haven't had problems since. Here is a thought, but if your getting banannas, collect some of the pollen from them and you can use it on later grows to pollinate strains...
- Thread starter
- #486
Good info DonP!! I never thought about the 13 in G 13 being M.... interesting theory.!!
- Thread starter
- #487
Well this weekend is going to be the weekend that I will be mixing up my new soil, transplanting my vegging plants and moving some over to flowering, as well as cloning all of the ones that go into the flowering tent. Going to be busy busy, but should have some updates later this weekend. I just got back from the hydro store and picked up more Advanced Nutrs... F1 fulvic acid and Organic B which is a full spectrum B. I had good success with it on past grows, especially when used as a foliar spray so I decided it was a worthy investment. I also picked up some hygrozyme since I ran out this grow, some alaskan forest humus for my soil mix, and some safer 3 in 1 pest spray to hit my vegging plants with to help kill off any spider mites that are left.
BudTester420
New Member
Everything looks great like usual Ice! quick question, how do you know how much amendment to put in your soil when your starting? hope that makes sense, I guess I could look at the packages but that's not fun. right now I'm just going to start somewhere and add or subtract on the next grow.
- Thread starter
- #489
Hey everyone, what do you think...should I continue on in this journal, or start a new one for this next round of flowering/clones?
- Thread starter
- #490
Hey Blazin!! Thanks for stopping by and the compliments.... as far as soil amending and mixtures... I still have not hit a "comfort zone" with my soil mixtures and so far have changed the amendments and ratios slightly each grow.. I wish I could suggest certain amounts and ratios but since I am experimenting still, I would'nt feel comfortable giving advice without knowing for sure it would work.
At the beginning of each of my journals I have listed the mixtures used and for sure I would say to soil, add worm castings, either perlite or volcanic pumice at about 10-20% per volume of soil. Adding a micronutrient additive like azomite is also a great suggestion and I would probably have to say 1 cup per 5 gallon pot is about right. We have also found that to enhance any soil adding a 6-5-3 ratio of calcium carbonate-soft rock phosphate-gypsum can virtually help boost any soil health and I would say about 1/2-1 cup of this mix per 5 gallon of soil also should be about right.
The rest is all personal choice, things like guano's, meals such as fish bone, bone meal, kelp meal, alfalfa meal and other meals depends on personal preference and overall goal. If you use the things above mentioned it should set you up with a really good soil. The rest is all finesse and practice.
- Thread starter
- #491
Speaking of soil mixtures, in the previous post...I currently am reading and trying to figure out what products and what ratios I will be using on my next soil mix...I was going to re-use some of my spent soil but decided to go completely fresh this time and hopefully have some really healthy plants. This is what I have to work with and I will post what I have read so far that will go into my soil. The more I read the more I want to get my soil tested because the interactions of soil ions can really improve or discourage a healthy crop and I really would love to be able to have the perfect mix. I haven't yet done this and still have been experimenting trying to follow the guidelines of the high brix growers and labs, but now am getting closer to getting my Pro Mix HP tested as well as the Ocean forest soils.
This is what I have on hand to work with...
about 1/2 bale of Promix HP
about 1/2 bag of Ocean Forest soil
1 bag of volcanic pumice (higher cec than perlite which has none)
1 large bag of worm castings with added lava rock and kelp meal
1 large back of alaskan forest humus
Additives:
kelp meal
alfalfa meal
fish bone meal
crab shell meal
calcium carbonate
soft rock phosphate
gypsum
azomite
lava sand
greensand
powdered humic acid
dry molasses
epsom salts
glacial rock dust
mycos maximum
This is so far what I have read from different sources of high brix growing...
68% calcium, 12% magnesium, 3% to 5% potassium and less that 1.5% sodium on the clay colloid.
Pre-Flowering Foliar Recipe
0.5 kg of solubor
500 grams of zinc sulfate
500 grams of copper sulfate
10-15 kg of urea
150 grams of NTS Soluble Fulvic Acid Powder
200 grams Tri-Kelp Soluble Kelp Powder
150 mL Cloak Spray Oil
The ideal phosphorus to zinc ratio is 10:1 in favour of phosphorus
Magnesium is a phosphate synergist that supports the uptake of P while potassium
is a phosphate antagonist when oversupplied. When we achieve the perfect 1:1 K to Mg
ratio, we see perfect uptake of both, and phosphorus uptake is also
It’s a neat trick and it can be very productive
60–70% Ca, 10–20% Mg, 3–5% K, 1% Na, 10–15 H, 2–4% other cations
DESIRED DESIRED LAB Soil Index
UNIT RATIO LEVEL RESULTS
HUMUS 30-40 25
NITRATES lbs. / Acre 40 70
AMMONIA lbs. / Acre 40 18
PHOSPHORUS lbs. / Acre 1P:1K 174 800 1.56 : 1 P to K Ratio
POTASSIUM lbs. / Acre 167 513
CALCIUM lbs. / Acre 7 Ca : 1 Mg 3000 743 5.12 : 1 Ca to Mg Ratio
MAGNESIUM lbs. / Acre 429 145
SODIUM PPM <35 2 Very Low
ERGS mS / Centimeter 200 266
ORP 28 27
pH 6.5 7.0
COPPER PPM 0.8-2.5 0.5 Low
IRON PPM 10-25 10.2 Medium
ZINC PPM 1-6 7.8 Very High
MANGANESE PPM 8-30 1.2 Very Low
BORON PPM 0.8-1.2 Not Tested
So now I am trying to figure out how to balance out my additives/soil amendments to come close to these ratios..basicly a shot in the dark without a soil test however I am going to use the knowledge of my last grows, in addition to this and other sources and should have the mix ready for tomorrow to get ready...unfortunately I will not have time to let the soil cook so I will also have to take this into consideration for my transplanted plants, however the soil that is used for my next round of clones/vegging plants will be cooked for about 3 weeks by the time the clones go into it.
This is what I have on hand to work with...
about 1/2 bale of Promix HP
about 1/2 bag of Ocean Forest soil
1 bag of volcanic pumice (higher cec than perlite which has none)
1 large bag of worm castings with added lava rock and kelp meal
1 large back of alaskan forest humus
Additives:
kelp meal
alfalfa meal
fish bone meal
crab shell meal
calcium carbonate
soft rock phosphate
gypsum
azomite
lava sand
greensand
powdered humic acid
dry molasses
epsom salts
glacial rock dust
mycos maximum
This is so far what I have read from different sources of high brix growing...
68% calcium, 12% magnesium, 3% to 5% potassium and less that 1.5% sodium on the clay colloid.
Pre-Flowering Foliar Recipe
0.5 kg of solubor
500 grams of zinc sulfate
500 grams of copper sulfate
10-15 kg of urea
150 grams of NTS Soluble Fulvic Acid Powder
200 grams Tri-Kelp Soluble Kelp Powder
150 mL Cloak Spray Oil
The ideal phosphorus to zinc ratio is 10:1 in favour of phosphorus
Magnesium is a phosphate synergist that supports the uptake of P while potassium
is a phosphate antagonist when oversupplied. When we achieve the perfect 1:1 K to Mg
ratio, we see perfect uptake of both, and phosphorus uptake is also
It’s a neat trick and it can be very productive
60–70% Ca, 10–20% Mg, 3–5% K, 1% Na, 10–15 H, 2–4% other cations
DESIRED DESIRED LAB Soil Index
UNIT RATIO LEVEL RESULTS
HUMUS 30-40 25
NITRATES lbs. / Acre 40 70
AMMONIA lbs. / Acre 40 18
PHOSPHORUS lbs. / Acre 1P:1K 174 800 1.56 : 1 P to K Ratio
POTASSIUM lbs. / Acre 167 513
CALCIUM lbs. / Acre 7 Ca : 1 Mg 3000 743 5.12 : 1 Ca to Mg Ratio
MAGNESIUM lbs. / Acre 429 145
SODIUM PPM <35 2 Very Low
ERGS mS / Centimeter 200 266
ORP 28 27
pH 6.5 7.0
COPPER PPM 0.8-2.5 0.5 Low
IRON PPM 10-25 10.2 Medium
ZINC PPM 1-6 7.8 Very High
MANGANESE PPM 8-30 1.2 Very Low
BORON PPM 0.8-1.2 Not Tested
So now I am trying to figure out how to balance out my additives/soil amendments to come close to these ratios..basicly a shot in the dark without a soil test however I am going to use the knowledge of my last grows, in addition to this and other sources and should have the mix ready for tomorrow to get ready...unfortunately I will not have time to let the soil cook so I will also have to take this into consideration for my transplanted plants, however the soil that is used for my next round of clones/vegging plants will be cooked for about 3 weeks by the time the clones go into it.
- Thread starter
- #492
Alright...so my next soil mixture plans are getting underway...advice and suggestions are welcome because I wont be mixing until tomorrow.
To have enough soil for my plants in the transplant as well as potting 8 new 2 gallon pots I will need a total of 15 (2 gallon pots) of soil, plus amendments bringing my total to 23 (2 gallon pots)...
So far this is the mix that I am coming up with based on previous grows, past knowledge and experience, and new material I have read.
I wanted to add additional calcium to my soil for this next grow and I wanted to have different sources than just calcium carbonate so this is where the fish bone meal and crab shell meal come into play... I will be reducing the amount of Calcium carbonate I use slightly and filling the loss in with the two above mentioned additives... I am trying to follow the high brix guidelines as far as high calcium, medium phosphate, low-medium N, and low K as well as balancing the MG to the K. The Carbon to Nitrogen ratio I am going for is a 20:1 which will be accomplished by the addition of forest humus, powdered humic acid and the "meals". Brown plant based nutrients have a higher C:N ratio than green plant based nutrients so I have also taken this into consideration. I also am trying to not use guano's on this grow which will be a 1st for me, but according to DocBud they are a hinderance to high brix growing so I will not be using them this round.
Here is the soil mix so far I am planning (which may get adjusted slightly before tomorrow).
A total of 23 (2 gallon pots) need to be mixed, extra soil will be kept or used for compost tea bags...
my measurements are by 2 gallon pot count and cups for the amendments...
Base Soil Mix
10 pots of Promix HP
5 pots of Ocean Forest
3 pots of Alaskan forest humus
3 pots of worm castings
2 pots of volcanic pumice
Amended with:.... * 1 gallon = 16 cups
-----------------
I am going with the 6-5-3 ratio but mixing up the calcium and P sources slightly this grow.
I wanted 7 cups total of calcium sources so I will be using:
5 cups of Calcium Carbonate powder
2 Cups of Crab meal which is a 2-3-0 23% calcium(also a P source and source of chitin a hormone/growth regulator)
For Phosphorus I wanted 6 Cups total so this will consist of :
4 cups of soft rock phosphate
2 cups of fish bone meal 3-18-0 (24% calcium)
3 cups of gypsum
For my micronutrients:
--------------------
3 cups of Azomite
3 cups of Kelp Meal (also has growth hormones and PGR's, plus trace minerals)
2 cups lava sand (adds micronutrients and supposedly ads paramagnetic value to the soil)
1 cup of greensand 0-0-3 (I wanted to keep this one low due to the high K value)
For Carbon building in the soil as well as growth hormones and regulators:
2 cup of alfalfa meal (2-0-3) (this should bring me close to the 2:1 ratio of P to K)
1 cup of epsom salts which should also bring me up to a 1:1 ratio of MG to K) (also about a 20:1 Ca:MG, excluding the MG that may be in the "meals")
1/2 to 1 cup of powdered humic acid
For Microbes:
2 cups of mycos maximum (if I have that much left)
1 cup of dry molasses 1-0-3
This may look like a lot of amendments but in the small amounts added, they only add up to 1 1/2 (2 gallon pots) to my soil mix of 23 pots which only is about 5% of my total soil mix. I may up the amounts by 1 cup each depending on how the soil loam and feel look after mixing but so far I think this is a good start to my next round...
To have enough soil for my plants in the transplant as well as potting 8 new 2 gallon pots I will need a total of 15 (2 gallon pots) of soil, plus amendments bringing my total to 23 (2 gallon pots)...
So far this is the mix that I am coming up with based on previous grows, past knowledge and experience, and new material I have read.
I wanted to add additional calcium to my soil for this next grow and I wanted to have different sources than just calcium carbonate so this is where the fish bone meal and crab shell meal come into play... I will be reducing the amount of Calcium carbonate I use slightly and filling the loss in with the two above mentioned additives... I am trying to follow the high brix guidelines as far as high calcium, medium phosphate, low-medium N, and low K as well as balancing the MG to the K. The Carbon to Nitrogen ratio I am going for is a 20:1 which will be accomplished by the addition of forest humus, powdered humic acid and the "meals". Brown plant based nutrients have a higher C:N ratio than green plant based nutrients so I have also taken this into consideration. I also am trying to not use guano's on this grow which will be a 1st for me, but according to DocBud they are a hinderance to high brix growing so I will not be using them this round.
Here is the soil mix so far I am planning (which may get adjusted slightly before tomorrow).
A total of 23 (2 gallon pots) need to be mixed, extra soil will be kept or used for compost tea bags...
my measurements are by 2 gallon pot count and cups for the amendments...
Base Soil Mix
10 pots of Promix HP
5 pots of Ocean Forest
3 pots of Alaskan forest humus
3 pots of worm castings
2 pots of volcanic pumice
Amended with:.... * 1 gallon = 16 cups
-----------------
I am going with the 6-5-3 ratio but mixing up the calcium and P sources slightly this grow.
I wanted 7 cups total of calcium sources so I will be using:
5 cups of Calcium Carbonate powder
2 Cups of Crab meal which is a 2-3-0 23% calcium(also a P source and source of chitin a hormone/growth regulator)
For Phosphorus I wanted 6 Cups total so this will consist of :
4 cups of soft rock phosphate
2 cups of fish bone meal 3-18-0 (24% calcium)
3 cups of gypsum
For my micronutrients:
--------------------
3 cups of Azomite
3 cups of Kelp Meal (also has growth hormones and PGR's, plus trace minerals)
2 cups lava sand (adds micronutrients and supposedly ads paramagnetic value to the soil)
1 cup of greensand 0-0-3 (I wanted to keep this one low due to the high K value)
For Carbon building in the soil as well as growth hormones and regulators:
2 cup of alfalfa meal (2-0-3) (this should bring me close to the 2:1 ratio of P to K)
1 cup of epsom salts which should also bring me up to a 1:1 ratio of MG to K) (also about a 20:1 Ca:MG, excluding the MG that may be in the "meals")
1/2 to 1 cup of powdered humic acid
For Microbes:
2 cups of mycos maximum (if I have that much left)
1 cup of dry molasses 1-0-3
This may look like a lot of amendments but in the small amounts added, they only add up to 1 1/2 (2 gallon pots) to my soil mix of 23 pots which only is about 5% of my total soil mix. I may up the amounts by 1 cup each depending on how the soil loam and feel look after mixing but so far I think this is a good start to my next round...
BudTester420
New Member
wow ice that's a lot of info to go through but I like it. thanks for the info on amendments. My next grow I was going for just a good soil with minerals, here my mix and I think I will tweak as I go.
soil. 2 cu ft(ffof,fflw)
ewc. 5-8 pounds
6/5/3 mix. 3.5 cups
mycos. 1/4 cup
azomite. 1 cup
epsom salt. 1.5 tablespoon
kelp. 1 tablespoon
alfalfa. 1 tablespoon
veg tea:
soil 1 cup
ewc. 1 cup
mycos. 1/8 cup
azomite. 1/8 cup
kelp. 1/8 cup
alfalfa. 1/8 cup
cold pressed squid
soil. 2 cu ft(ffof,fflw)
ewc. 5-8 pounds
6/5/3 mix. 3.5 cups
mycos. 1/4 cup
azomite. 1 cup
epsom salt. 1.5 tablespoon
kelp. 1 tablespoon
alfalfa. 1 tablespoon
veg tea:
soil 1 cup
ewc. 1 cup
mycos. 1/8 cup
azomite. 1/8 cup
kelp. 1/8 cup
alfalfa. 1/8 cup
cold pressed squid
- Thread starter
- #494
When I was at the hydro store today I really wanted to up my pot size from 5 gallon square pots to 7 gallon (whatever type pots) I measured the width of my tent and it is 26". I took my tape measure to the hydro store and checked the sizes... The Smart Pot 7 Gallon was 14" across diameter which would have made them 2" too large for my tent. I considered squishing them in but I decided not to because they still would need larger drain pans to sit in which wouldn't work....Next was the round plastic pots. The 7 gallon ones were 12' in diameter which would have worked but also needed larger drain pans which were huge compared to the current ones I am using. I could have gotten away with squeezing them into my current drain pots but it would have left no room for runoff and would have ended up in me cleaning my tent because of spills... so those wouldn't work either. They didn't have 7 gallon square pots so I may have to see what other local hydro stores or hardware stores carry to see if I can bump up the size pots, if not I am stuck using the 5 gallon plastic square pots which are ok, but I would prefer larger ones.. the search continues....
the search continues....
12.4 inches should work, right? 7 gallon square fabric pots for $6.12 a pop. Google "Gro Pro 724965".
Hey Ice, just checking things out seeing what's up.
No need to have your Promix tested. I've already done it and have the PERFECT amendment for it.
I can only say, from your mix, that you're going to be sky high in potassium....way too high, and probably sodium as well.
I'd say ditch the Alfalfa, Greensand and go with half the Azomite....all in the Promix, without the Ocean Forest and you'll be closer to the ratio's you're shooting for. I had all that stuff tested along the way and it was miserably high in potassium and sodium....unsuitable for high brix.
The amount of amendment for the whole bale of promix in my kit is 1.5 cups....which includes everything but the worm castings. It's not nearly as much as you'd think, and more is definitely not better!
Anyways, you might try a couple like that and see how you like 'em.
No need to have your Promix tested. I've already done it and have the PERFECT amendment for it.
I can only say, from your mix, that you're going to be sky high in potassium....way too high, and probably sodium as well.
I'd say ditch the Alfalfa, Greensand and go with half the Azomite....all in the Promix, without the Ocean Forest and you'll be closer to the ratio's you're shooting for. I had all that stuff tested along the way and it was miserably high in potassium and sodium....unsuitable for high brix.
The amount of amendment for the whole bale of promix in my kit is 1.5 cups....which includes everything but the worm castings. It's not nearly as much as you'd think, and more is definitely not better!
Anyways, you might try a couple like that and see how you like 'em.
- Thread starter
- #497
Hey Doc!! I really appreciate you stopping through and sharing your knowledge...It's funny you said that about the greensand and the alfalfa and potassium being too high. I was also thinking that to myself and wanting to leave them out and only use the alfalfa for teas occasionally. I gotta follow my gut more often
Wow, only 1.5 cups to a bale...I think I will have way too much then with mine being a bout 10x that... I may have to slightly lower my amounts by about 1/2 or more.. I really think this should get me pretty good results.
Again I really appreciate you taking the time to stop by and will definitely take your advice. I may have to use some of the Ocean forest due to only having about a 1/2 bale of promix left but I will stretch it as far as it goes and use the least amount of OF I have to. Thanks Doc for your advice
One question for you Doc, do you use a layer of lava rock or clay balls or anything on the bottom of your pots?
- Thread starter
- #498
So here is the first of this weekends updates.....
Since my Flower tent is completely harvested it was time to take out all the pots and clean the entire tent. 2 nights ago I stuck my florecent blacklight in the tent as well as a clear plastic dish with water, a drop of soap and ink from a yellow florecent marker. I found that thrips and other pests love UV light and they are drawn to it...like a bugzapper. I left this on for 2 days before the cleaning to hopefully draw out any hidden thrips and spider mites and whatever else was in the tent. I did this one time before and most of the thrips either went for a drink in the glowing yellow pool, or fried on the heat of the UV light... I did it this time and saw quite a few dead ones..probably about a good 50 to 100 of them total... looks like it worked.
I everything out of the tent including the tent liner and the carbon scrubber pre-filters... I scrubbed the tent liner and hung it to dry and scrubbed and squeezed out the pre filters, I couldn't believe how much dirt and grime was in the pre-filters...I have to figure something out for filtering the intake air.. wow...
I scrubbed the walls of the tent down with a all natural bleach solution and water and even cleaned the glass on my hoods because it was dirty from blowing foliar sprays and dust..
Always like a clean environment to start with each grow. Eliminates the possibility of contamination greatly. When I was done cleaning the tent I put the tent tray back in and put the blacklight and glowing yellow dish back in the tent to make sure that no left over thrips or anything else was in the tent.
My veg tent I sprayed with a Safer End all pest spray to make sure to kill off any mites, thrips or anything else that might still be lingering in the tent.
A few hours later when everything was dry I busted out my root riot plugs, some clonex, my humidity dome, heating pad, scissors, R/O water and my 26w 6500k CFL and went to town cloning. I took 2 cuts of each plant, at least 5" long, most longer, and tried to take them from the bottom of the plants. I've read that the lower branches have more rooting hormones that the top ones...but I've cloned both with success so I think the difference is probably minimal. I cut each clone off, cut on a diaginal, scored about 1/2 inch of the bottom of the stem, dunked in clonex and then into the root riot plug. I added about 1 cup of r/o water to the tray to help maintain humidity without saturating the plugs. I also mixed up a foliar spray of just r/o water and about 20ml of SNS Veg Booster which is mostly kelp/seaweed and a few other plant extracts...virtually very little nutrients... thought it may be perfect for the clones.
The clones were placed into the tray, top closed and placed on a heat mat in my flowering tent for the time being. Tomorrow I will be tranplanting all of the vegging plants and moving most of them into the flowering tent. The veg tent will then be scrubbed and cleaned and the clones will be placed in the veg tent with 2 CFL's on 24 hours a day for about a week to 2 weeks, until they show roots. I will already have soil potted and by this time it should have cooked for 2 weeks so it will be perfect to pop the plugs in and start my next round. This 2 weeks will also give me enough time to take clones of the flowering plants if needed, where it is early enough to re-veg if one of the strain's clones don't turn out.
I honestly haven't figured out what to do with the pre98 bubba. I really haven't liked any of my harvests of it and it really doesn't produce the type of buds I like, they are always airy and light, and still haven't turned out to my liking. Part of me wants to flower it 1 last time, but also will take up room for the plants I do want to flower.... and part of me wants to clone it, kill off the mother and just keep a small mother going once the clone roots....not sure why I even want to keep it other than possible breeding with later when I decide to experiment.. hmmmm
Since my Flower tent is completely harvested it was time to take out all the pots and clean the entire tent. 2 nights ago I stuck my florecent blacklight in the tent as well as a clear plastic dish with water, a drop of soap and ink from a yellow florecent marker. I found that thrips and other pests love UV light and they are drawn to it...like a bugzapper. I left this on for 2 days before the cleaning to hopefully draw out any hidden thrips and spider mites and whatever else was in the tent. I did this one time before and most of the thrips either went for a drink in the glowing yellow pool, or fried on the heat of the UV light... I did it this time and saw quite a few dead ones..probably about a good 50 to 100 of them total... looks like it worked.
I everything out of the tent including the tent liner and the carbon scrubber pre-filters... I scrubbed the tent liner and hung it to dry and scrubbed and squeezed out the pre filters, I couldn't believe how much dirt and grime was in the pre-filters...I have to figure something out for filtering the intake air.. wow...
I scrubbed the walls of the tent down with a all natural bleach solution and water and even cleaned the glass on my hoods because it was dirty from blowing foliar sprays and dust..
Always like a clean environment to start with each grow. Eliminates the possibility of contamination greatly. When I was done cleaning the tent I put the tent tray back in and put the blacklight and glowing yellow dish back in the tent to make sure that no left over thrips or anything else was in the tent.
My veg tent I sprayed with a Safer End all pest spray to make sure to kill off any mites, thrips or anything else that might still be lingering in the tent.
A few hours later when everything was dry I busted out my root riot plugs, some clonex, my humidity dome, heating pad, scissors, R/O water and my 26w 6500k CFL and went to town cloning. I took 2 cuts of each plant, at least 5" long, most longer, and tried to take them from the bottom of the plants. I've read that the lower branches have more rooting hormones that the top ones...but I've cloned both with success so I think the difference is probably minimal. I cut each clone off, cut on a diaginal, scored about 1/2 inch of the bottom of the stem, dunked in clonex and then into the root riot plug. I added about 1 cup of r/o water to the tray to help maintain humidity without saturating the plugs. I also mixed up a foliar spray of just r/o water and about 20ml of SNS Veg Booster which is mostly kelp/seaweed and a few other plant extracts...virtually very little nutrients... thought it may be perfect for the clones.
The clones were placed into the tray, top closed and placed on a heat mat in my flowering tent for the time being. Tomorrow I will be tranplanting all of the vegging plants and moving most of them into the flowering tent. The veg tent will then be scrubbed and cleaned and the clones will be placed in the veg tent with 2 CFL's on 24 hours a day for about a week to 2 weeks, until they show roots. I will already have soil potted and by this time it should have cooked for 2 weeks so it will be perfect to pop the plugs in and start my next round. This 2 weeks will also give me enough time to take clones of the flowering plants if needed, where it is early enough to re-veg if one of the strain's clones don't turn out.
I honestly haven't figured out what to do with the pre98 bubba. I really haven't liked any of my harvests of it and it really doesn't produce the type of buds I like, they are always airy and light, and still haven't turned out to my liking. Part of me wants to flower it 1 last time, but also will take up room for the plants I do want to flower.... and part of me wants to clone it, kill off the mother and just keep a small mother going once the clone roots....not sure why I even want to keep it other than possible breeding with later when I decide to experiment.. hmmmm
- Thread starter
- #499
Thanks for the suggestions Graytail, good looking out...I don't know if I will make it for this grow in time unless I can call around tomorrow and find a local store to get them, but definitely will order them for my next run... I love the fabric pots, grew some huge buds in just #3 smart pots on my scrog, definitely a huge difference in yield. I appreciate the suggestion
Cull it bro. If you don't like it by now you never will. I wouldn't breed with an under performing plant either. I would find a better cut of bubba if that's a rout you are looking to breed.
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