Is anyone using Pro Mix organic soil?

[Theoneeyedguy2020]

Hello, I am new to these forums and also new to growing. This is my First grow and I’m doing my newly legal amount ( 4 plants ) here in Canada eh. Anyways I am currently 3 weeks in and I want to use a better soil. Currently I’m using Schultz premium potting soil plus.so far things aren’t bad. But the water doesn’t dry out fast enough, it takes days.

I was in a rush so I just went and picked up some pro mix premium organic vegetable and herb mix. I have to move them from my solo cups into a pot. But before I do I want to know if anyone has used this in the past ? and if so what were the results?.
Also would anyone recommend I stay using Schultz ?

Pros/cons
•Schultz has less wood chips/pro-mix has a bit more
•pro-mix has more perlite
• Schultz not organic
• pro-mix almost no nutes/Shultz 20.8.8

 

[AngryBird]

Hi and eh... Welcome to 420 Magazine!
We surely have a canuck invasion
Congrats on legalisation!!!!!
Regarding the soil,
I have heard members using it with success.

 

[hedzenmedz]

Hello, I am new to these forums and also new to growing. This is my First grow and I’m doing my newly legal amount ( 4 plants ) here in Canada eh. Anyways I am currently 3 weeks in and I want to use a better soil. Currently I’m using Schultz premium potting soil plus.so far things aren’t bad. But the water doesn’t dry out fast enough, it takes days.

I was in a rush so I just went and picked up some pro mix premium organic vegetable and herb mix. I have to move them from my solo cups into a pot. But before I do I want to know if anyone has used this in the past ? and if so what were the results?.
Also would anyone recommend I stay using Schultz ?

Pros/cons
•Schultz has less wood chips/pro-mix has a bit more
•pro-mix has more perlite
• Schultz not organic
• pro-mix almost no nutes/Shultz 20.8.8

Hi 1i,
Are you growing organically? We use the promix organic veg and herb soil. However, we heavily amend it (promix, shellfish compost, lots and lots and lots of perlite, glacial rock dust, composted leaves from the Northern Ontario bush, bokashi). This was mixed and cooked in the summer sun in a covered bin for 6 weeks before being used. For seedlings, we use a seedling soil. Hope this helps.

 

[bobrown14]

ProMix is ok kinda expensive for me.

Here's my mix:

1/3 CSPM (Canadian Peat Moss)
1/3 Aeration (per-lite)
1/3 Humus (compost/EWC) - this is the key ingredient. If you need to buy in a bag try Coast of Main - lobster compost or something similar compost in a bag and EWC (worm castings)


To the above I add:

Cubic Foot = 7.5 gallons

Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot
Neem Cake and Karanja Cake 50/50 Mix @ 1/2 to 1 cup per cubic foot
Crustacean Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot
Malted Barley @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot (ground fine in a coffee grinder) ***

Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Brix Blend Basalt @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Glacial Rock Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

*** Malted Barley - can get at local brew supply or online. Get 2 row malted barley organic ... its cheap. Get it whole and grind in a coffee grinder as needed.
Its enzymes in spades. Enzymes are the catalysts for soil microbes.

Humus is the most important part of the mix. Your compost is key. Try and find the best you can. Suggest trying your local Garden Center/nursery they both usually carry all of what you need on this list.

 

[growdolphin]

Hello, I am new to these forums and also new to growing. This is my First grow and I’m doing my newly legal amount ( 4 plants ) here in Canada eh. Anyways I am currently 3 weeks in and I want to use a better soil. Currently I’m using Schultz premium potting soil plus.so far things aren’t bad. But the water doesn’t dry out fast enough, it takes days.

I was in a rush so I just went and picked up some pro mix premium organic vegetable and herb mix. I have to move them from my solo cups into a pot. But before I do I want to know if anyone has used this in the past ? and if so what were the results?.
Also would anyone recommend I stay using Schultz ?

Hey OneEyedGuy! I'm from Canada too! You did zee right thing asking about soil when you spotted water retention with that Schultz junk you're using!

Throw that on your yard and start over with zee good stuff you just got: Pro Mix!

I've got an all-organic 5000 plant operation up in BC in zee foot hills of zee Rocky Mountains on Indian land we're squatting on with their permission. We asked this Band if we could set up our greenhouses on a big ugly clear-cut logging operation before zee Indians kicked 'em off and reclaimed it. They welcomed us when we asked and only wanted one thing in return: our women! Just joking! All they wanted in return was for us to teach 'em how to grow!

We use ONLY our own soil mix based on Pro Mix! But like somebody else here said, we mix zee Pro Mix with our own soil/horse shit compost, a little more vermiculite and LOTS of worm castings. We have our own worm farm too and they make our worm castings!

Zee extra cool thing about growing in soil, is that you can reuse it forever! As long as you compost it after for a year first before reusing it. With 5000 plants growing year-round in summer greenhouses and our winter abandoned mine shaft powered by our solar and wind turbines, we like to say we grow zee best non-licensed Bud around! We like to say this because that's what all our happy customers tell us!

So you can't go wrong with growing all organic in your Pro Mix! Don't worry if you can't get any compost for this first round of yours. Just use your Pro Mix, extra vermiculite and TONS of worm castings all mixed up. With good store-bought nutes, you can even grow in straight Pro Mix! But basically half Pro Mix and half worm castings and your pots will drain easy so its almost impossible to over-water. Your plants will love you for it! And in return (if you do everything else right) they'll give you zee best Bud you've ever smoked!

 

[growdolphin]

ProMix is ok kinda expensive for me.

Here's my mix:

1/3 CSPM (Canadian Peat Moss)
1/3 Aeration (per-lite)
1/3 Humus (compost/EWC) - this is the key ingredient. If you need to buy in a bag try Coast of Main - lobster compost or something similar compost in a bag and EWC (worm castings)


To the above I add:

Cubic Foot = 7.5 gallons

Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot
Neem Cake and Karanja Cake 50/50 Mix @ 1/2 to 1 cup per cubic foot
Crustacean Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot
Malted Barley @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot (ground fine in a coffee grinder) ***

Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Brix Blend Basalt @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Glacial Rock Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

*** Malted Barley - can get at local brew supply or online. Get 2 row malted barley organic ... its cheap. Get it whole and grind in a coffee grinder as needed.
Its enzymes in spades. Enzymes are the catalysts for soil microbes.

Humus is the most important part of the mix. Your compost is key. Try and find the best you can. Suggest trying your local Garden Center/nursery they both usually carry all of what you need on this list.

Hey BoBrown! Thanks for liking my post! I take it as a real compliment when a dude who really know's what zee hell he's talking about likes my own suggestions. I quoted your post for emphasis so newbie growers would see it more (+exposure!) Don't get insulted though, when I say its a little too complicated for me. But that being said, I'm gonna try your recipe because even though it would be extra work for us, it sounds brilliant. Plus, I love to experiment and try great ideas and systems that sound like it would work better than what I do!

I just think its funny when you say pro mix is too expensive and then turn around and give your recipe which sounds even more expensive and time-consuming to make! But like I said, it sounds great and I'm gonna try it after Christmas in our abandoned mine shaft operation. I'll be going into town after our harvest with a delivery and pick up all zee ingredients and do all our new 5000 plants in it...That's how confident I am in your cool recipe!

What I like about it so much is that its all organic. Our customers love our product so much because its super potent and they know that potency comes from our organic way of doing things around here. Besides making our own soil, we even make our own our own nutes! We got 4-100 gallon fish tanks in our mine shaft operation full of Koi. (These are extra-large fancy gold fish {carp} in case anybody's wondering). They love to eat a lot and shit a lot! We feed them the red wrigglers we breed for worm castings. We got an unlimited supply of fresh pure mountain spring water right in our mine shaft that zee miners broke into when they were drilling and blasting. On a weekly basis we change up our fish water. We got this cool heavy-duty siphon system. We treat our fish good and each of their 100 gallon aquariums is lined with a beautiful bed of gravel right from the pure fresh mountain river that runs through our Indian reserve. (Its not a Rez, but their own land they took back from our evil fucking government in a long legal battle for treaty rights!) Every week we take our special syphon and suck up all zee fish shit in zee gravel of our fish tanks. It just powerful enough to take up all zee dirty fish shit water but not powerful enough to take zee gravel with it. It's a perfect fish tank cleaner and all zee dirty fish water makes zee perfect FREE nutrients solution we water our plants with~!

We're so into keeping things simple we used to hand-trim all of our Buds. But when got really big we couldn't keep up trimming at harvest time! When our secret operation got so big here, zee first thing we did was hire hand-trimmers. We found a few old timer Vietnam draft dodgers to help us out. But we caught them ripping us off...and that's even after we'd paid them $50 an hour and let them take a pound home when they were done for zee season! We had to get rid of them because we figured if they'd steal from us, they'd probably RAT on us too! That was easy cause we'd drive 'em up here blindfolded {in a big van with zee windows blacked out} and they'd live up here not knowing where they were and when we decided to automate our trimming we brought em back down to Vancouver blindfolded like usual for a break like usual... but never brought em back! But auto-trimmers back then sucked. And most still suck! We just didn't trust our hand-trimmers any more so we were stuck using these expensive things. Zee first time we got our Buds lab-tested for potency we noticed a big drop in THC levels compared to what they were with Hand-trimming. But there was no way we were gonna risk being busted from dishonest hand-trimmers ratting us out, so we were stuck with these machines. We tried 'em all too and these big expensive bladed machines we bought were able to trim Bud that looked hand-trimmed but zee blades were like resin magnets and tons of our precious resin was just sticking to these stupid blades! And you couldn't get it back after cleaning zee blades either! We figured though, that if all the other big growers were using these machines our Buds wouldn't be any noticeably different in potency then their's.

So it was a big deal, and I mean a really big fucking DEAL when I found zee first automated trimming machine almost 5 years ago now that didn't use blades! It was called a Tom's Tumble Trimmer and after getting our Buds tested using it to trim we found our resin % and potency had bounced back up to zee way it was when we used to hand trim! We couldn't believe it! At first we figured it was just zee fact that this thing didn't use blades to trim but tumbled zee dry Buds. But zee more we used it, and it consistently brought back high levels after testing, we started to notice something else: zee damn thing didn't need any maintenance or cleaning! With zee bladed machines we were always having to stop everything and take a whole day to clean these fuckers! And zee more we cleaned them zee MORE they'd jam up! But not with Tom's Tumble Trimmers! That was because I discovered nothing good--all our precious resins and tri's-- never stuck to zee mesh that tumbled and trimmed zee dry Buds! I don't even think he knew it either cause he never advertised that fact. Well, now we got 5 of these things and they all work just like brand new like our first one we bought almost 5 years ago. Just recently I had zee idea to take this mesh to one of our labs and see if they could tell why nothing stuck to it. Zee first thing they discovered was that it was in fact patented, so Tom must have known what the fuck he was doing! Our lab told us that zee mesh was actually made of high-grade food grade material and it worked just like Teflon WITHOUT Teflon's toxic residual effects. I got really excited about that! We've always prided ourselves on growing zee Best Buds anywhere cause we're totally organic. Now we've found that our Tom's Tumble Trimmers are even "organic" cause zee secret patented mesh material is food-grade safe! Zee REAL KILLER is that our Tom's Tumble Trimmers trim just as perfect as hand-trimming and are just as fast as all zee expensive inferior bladed machines, they never break down or need cleaning and cost a fraction of the cost. We bought 5 for zee price of one of the pieces of garbage we used to buy!

OK, I'm getting all cranked up and its Remembrance Day no less! Better chill and take zee gang out for a horseback adventure and see what we can see. My girlfriend loves to take wildlife pictures. But yeah, BoBrown, everybody in our gang has read your soil recipe and we all love it! So I'll keep you posted in how it goes when we switch over. I don't like taking zee risk of posting pictures from our secret operation, but will do a scientific comparison between zee results we're getting now and compare it to zee new harvest from 5000 plants growing in your awesome mix and tell you how it goes! Thanks again for posting your awesome recipe and have an excellent Sunday afternoon!



I like to keep things simple! With 5000 plants growing at any one time, you gotta!

 

[bobrown14]

ProMix is $40US best I can find here.

The same and I'm saying not only the same product its even from the same company @ ONLY $10 best I can find locally:

link:
Peat Moss | Premier Tech Home and Garden

If you look around that website you should find your ProMix

ProMix is marketed for professional landscapers.

I just think its funny when you say pro mix is too expensive and then turn around and give your recipe which sounds even more expensive and time-consuming to make! But like I said, it sounds great and I'm gonna try it after Christmas in our abandoned mine shaft operation. I'll be going into town after our harvest with a delivery and pick up all zee ingredients and do all our new 5000 plants in it...That's how confident I am in your cool recipe!

I'll take that a fuck off... google "coots soil".

Lemme know what you think.

Edit: OMG I can't believe I just said that ^^^

 

[growdolphin]

I'll take that a fuck off... google "coots soil".

Ho-la! Your English is too short form. I can't understand what you're trying to say

 

[bobrown14]

Not sure if serious

 

[Conradino23]

Doc's formula is based on ProMix, but his High Brix kit depends on very inert medium that can be steered any way you want. Otherwise you need to learn how to work with it... but it's just peat with perlite as almost every other growing mix, so no surprises here.

 

[HitThe420assassin]

I use promix hp normally but this go I just got promix organic and added perlite for better aeration it works the same not much nutrients in it though I'd say it's better than Shultz for sure

 

[Conradino23]

These mixes have a big advantage for an experienced grower. One can customise them any way one wants without big risk of going overboard with nutrient saturation. However you need to know what you're doing.

 

[TheStruggle]

Hey OneEyedGuy! I'm from Canada too! You did zee right thing asking about soil when you spotted water retention with that Schultz junk you're using!

Throw that on your yard and start over with zee good stuff you just got: Pro Mix!

I've got an all-organic 5000 plant operation up in BC in zee foot hills of zee Rocky Mountains on Indian land we're squatting on with their permission. We asked this Band if we could set up our greenhouses on a big ugly clear-cut logging operation before zee Indians kicked 'em off and reclaimed it. They welcomed us when we asked and only wanted one thing in return: our women! Just joking! All they wanted in return was for us to teach 'em how to grow!

We use ONLY our own soil mix based on Pro Mix! But like somebody else here said, we mix zee Pro Mix with our own soil/horse shit compost, a little more vermiculite and LOTS of worm castings. We have our own worm farm too and they make our worm castings!

Zee extra cool thing about growing in soil, is that you can reuse it forever! As long as you compost it after for a year first before reusing it. With 5000 plants growing year-round in summer greenhouses and our winter abandoned mine shaft powered by our solar and wind turbines, we like to say we grow zee best non-licensed Bud around! We like to say this because that's what all our happy customers tell us!

So you can't go wrong with growing all organic in your Pro Mix! Don't worry if you can't get any compost for this first round of yours. Just use your Pro Mix, extra vermiculite and TONS of worm castings all mixed up. With good store-bought nutes, you can even grow in straight Pro Mix! But basically half Pro Mix and half worm castings and your pots will drain easy so its almost impossible to over-water. Your plants will love you for it! And in return (if you do everything else right) they'll give you zee best Bud you've ever smoked!

Thank you..years later information still as valuable as gold

 

[Bro Al]

Hi 1i,
Are you growing organically? We use the promix organic veg and herb soil. However, we heavily amend it (promix, shellfish compost, lots and lots and lots of perlite, glacial rock dust, composted leaves from the Northern Ontario bush, bokashi). This was mixed and cooked in the summer sun in a covered bin for 6 weeks before being used. For seedlings, we use a seedling soil. Hope this helps.

Use whatever organic soil amendments you like, but try Ionic Grow, Bloom and PK Boost from Hydrodynamics International sometime. Low NPK levels which bode well for flavor. They employ large molecule technology which is essential fertilizer with grab bars.

 

[WRL]

ProMix is ok kinda expensive for me.

Here's my mix:

1/3 CSPM (Canadian Peat Moss)
1/3 Aeration (per-lite)
1/3 Humus (compost/EWC) - this is the key ingredient. If you need to buy in a bag try Coast of Main - lobster compost or something similar compost in a bag and EWC (worm castings)


To the above I add:

Cubic Foot = 7.5 gallons

Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot
Neem Cake and Karanja Cake 50/50 Mix @ 1/2 to 1 cup per cubic foot
Crustacean Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot
Malted Barley @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot (ground fine in a coffee grinder) ***

Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Brix Blend Basalt @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Glacial Rock Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

*** Malted Barley - can get at local brew supply or online. Get 2 row malted barley organic ... its cheap. Get it whole and grind in a coffee grinder as needed.
Its enzymes in spades. Enzymes are the catalysts for soil microbes.

Humus is the most important part of the mix. Your compost is key. Try and find the best you can. Suggest trying your local Garden Center/nursery they both usually carry all of what you need on this list.

Has anybody ever come across this problem. My soil keep going hot . I’m putting in 5.8, but after a couple weeks of feeding the ph out is up between oh 7/8 .I have to flush couple gallons through 5.5ph to correct it . Has anyone else encountered this issue. . The air bags are soil coco perlite mix , newts organic. Biobizz, ,bat poop .

 

[SmokingWings]

Your plants are looking pretty decent except for one little possible problem.

My soil keep going hot .

"Hot soil" is soil that has way too much fertilizers mixed in. Usually Nitrogen is the main macro nutrient that can cause problems and is the one most likely to burn the roots and then leaves of what ever is growing there. That is the main reason for calling a soil hot. Sometimes a compost based soil that had just had some fresh organic amendments added will increase its actual temperature enough that the soil or pot will feel warm, sometimes as high as 100 F. Some call that cooking hot soil but after a month or so the temperature starts dropping.

The way you are talking about pH I get the feeling that you are trying to measure the pH of the soil by measuring the water's pH. And if you find a number up in the neutral or above then you think it is hot which it is not.

I’m putting in 5.8, but after a couple weeks of feeding the ph out is up between oh 7/8 .

You're are using water that you tested at 5.8 which is good for most hydroponic grows. For a soil grow the water should be 6.3 for proper or better micro-organism activity which will extract the maximum amount of available nutrients. The pH helps to control which nutrients and minerals are available. When growing in soil if the water starts off at 6.3 pH then by the time it reaches a pH of 6.8 it has moved through the ranges that allow for maximum nutrient availability.

Then it sounds like a few weeks later you test the pH of the water coming out of the pots and the reading is around 7 and up to 8. That does sound a bit high but it does not mean the soil is hot. Unless you are doing a slurry test with a sample mix of the soils all you are doing is measuring the pH of the water after it has removed some nutrients and micro-organisms.

I have to flush couple gallons through 5.5ph to correct it .

You are flushing out all the water soluble nutrients currently available. Also much of the microbes and micro-organisms that convert the organic material into what the plant can absorb through the roots and use have been flushed out.

Eventually there is nothing left to fight the acidic water (5.5 pH) water you are pouring in and so the water running though the pot will be the same pH as the water going in.

Luckily most of those organisms will reproduce fast enough that they are back to where they should be in a day or two. And the soil quickly is back to where it should be based on whatever amendments and fertilizers you have used.

Has anyone else encountered this issue.

I have not checked the pH of any of my soil mixes in the 6 years I have been growing these Marijuana plants. I do check what the pH of my city water is about once a year. Since it has been holding in a range of 6.1 to 6.4 but most of the time it is 6.2 to 6.3 I do not worry about the water pH either.

The one little problem I am noticing are the spots showing on some of the plant leaves. It reminds me of an insect problem starting up, probably thrips.

 

[WRL]

Your plants are looking pretty decent except for one little possible problem.


"Hot soil" is soil that has way too much fertilizers mixed in. Usually Nitrogen is the main macro nutrient that can cause problems and is the one most likely to burn the roots and then leaves of what ever is growing there. That is the main reason for calling a soil hot. Sometimes a compost based soil that had just had some fresh organic amendments added will increase its actual temperature enough that the soil or pot will feel warm, sometimes as high as 100 F. Some call that cooking hot soil but after a month or so the temperature starts dropping.

The way you are talking about pH I get the feeling that you are trying to measure the pH of the soil by measuring the water's pH. And if you find a number up in the neutral or above then you think it is hot which it is not.


You're are using water that you tested at 5.8 which is good for most hydroponic grows. For a soil grow the water should be 6.3 for proper or better micro-organism activity which will extract the maximum amount of available nutrients. The pH helps to control which nutrients and minerals are available. When growing in soil if the water starts off at 6.3 pH then by the time it reaches a pH of 6.8 it has moved through the ranges that allow for maximum nutrient availability.

Then it sounds like a few weeks later you test the pH of the water coming out of the pots and the reading is around 7 and up to 8. That does sound a bit high but it does not mean the soil is hot. Unless you are doing a slurry test with a sample mix of the soils all you are doing is measuring the pH of the water after it has removed some nutrients and micro-organisms.


You are flushing out all the water soluble nutrients currently available. Also much of the microbes and micro-organisms that convert the organic material into what the plant can absorb through the roots and use have been flushed out.

Eventually there is nothing left to fight the acidic water (5.5 pH) water you are pouring in and so the water running though the pot will be the same pH as the water going in.

Luckily most of those organisms will reproduce fast enough that they are back to where they should be in a day or two. And the soil quickly is back to where it should be based on whatever amendments and fertilizers you have used.


I have not checked the pH of any of my soil mixes in the 6 years I have been growing these Marijuana plants. I do check what the pH of my city water is about once a year. Since it has been holding in a range of 6.1 to 6.4 but most of the time it is 6.2 to 6.3 I do not worry about the water pH either.

The one little problem I am noticing are the spots showing on some of the plant leaves. It reminds me of an insect problem starting up, probably thrips.

You’re right bro , I have been putting far to much through them . I used the correct amount of biobizz but because I was in flower I went overboard with bat . After I finished flushing, I went half strength with grow, flower, max. And some cal/ mag. I’ve actually done this before at the start of veg . Think I’d learn but this is my first grow and I got over excited being so close to the finish line. I’ve already moved into coco mix 70/30 for the rest my grow. Seems to me you get faster growth from it . Thanks for the feedback going to give it a good read again. Never hurts to ask for advice. Appreciated

 

[WRL]

Your plants are looking pretty decent except for one little possible problem.


"Hot soil" is soil that has way too much fertilizers mixed in. Usually Nitrogen is the main macro nutrient that can cause problems and is the one most likely to burn the roots and then leaves of what ever is growing there. That is the main reason for calling a soil hot. Sometimes a compost based soil that had just had some fresh organic amendments added will increase its actual temperature enough that the soil or pot will feel warm, sometimes as high as 100 F. Some call that cooking hot soil but after a month or so the temperature starts dropping.

The way you are talking about pH I get the feeling that you are trying to measure the pH of the soil by measuring the water's pH. And if you find a number up in the neutral or above then you think it is hot which it is not.


You're are using water that you tested at 5.8 which is good for most hydroponic grows. For a soil grow the water should be 6.3 for proper or better micro-organism activity which will extract the maximum amount of available nutrients. The pH helps to control which nutrients and minerals are available. When growing in soil if the water starts off at 6.3 pH then by the time it reaches a pH of 6.8 it has moved through the ranges that allow for maximum nutrient availability.

Then it sounds like a few weeks later you test the pH of the water coming out of the pots and the reading is around 7 and up to 8. That does sound a bit high but it does not mean the soil is hot. Unless you are doing a slurry test with a sample mix of the soils all you are doing is measuring the pH of the water after it has removed some nutrients and micro-organisms.


You are flushing out all the water soluble nutrients currently available. Also much of the microbes and micro-organisms that convert the organic material into what the plant can absorb through the roots and use have been flushed out.

Eventually there is nothing left to fight the acidic water (5.5 pH) water you are pouring in and so the water running though the pot will be the same pH as the water going in.

Luckily most of those organisms will reproduce fast enough that they are back to where they should be in a day or two. And the soil quickly is back to where it should be based on whatever amendments and fertilizers you have used.


I have not checked the pH of any of my soil mixes in the 6 years I have been growing these Marijuana plants. I do check what the pH of my city water is about once a year. Since it has been holding in a range of 6.1 to 6.4 but most of the time it is 6.2 to 6.3 I do not worry about the water pH either.

The one little problem I am noticing are the spots showing on some of the plant leaves. It reminds me of an insect problem starting up, probably thrips.

Bro I’ve got 9in the tent and it’s the only one with yellow spots. Thrips? Will a neem tea do the job. Pour some on soil and spray leaves. Haven’t noticed any insects activity, maybe half a dozen little flies that’s it . Thanks for the info on ph . I was told between 5.8/6.3. That were it absorbs what it needs. But now I’m thinking that’s for coco. Hit me bk

 

[SmokingWings]

Bro I’ve got 9in the tent and it’s the only one with yellow spots. Thrips? Will a neem tea do the job. Pour some on soil and spray leaves. Haven’t noticed any insects activity, maybe half a dozen little flies that’s it .

Going by the spots on the leaves it looks like something is happening to the plant in the upper left corner and 4 of the 6 in the small tote box or square container in the front. Since we are not there we have to go with what the photos show and there are spots.

Could be something else but what shows does look like the start of a Thrip problem. It will take looking at the underside of all the leaves since they rarely are on the top.

The thrip larvae start in the soil and as they mature they move up the stems and to the leaves. A Neem tea might help kill of the larvae but will have less of effect on the adults. Spraying the adults will work but it is something that will have to be done on a regular schedule.

First thing is to find out if the spots are caused by insects and then put together a plan on how to reduce their population.