Jon's Dedicated Fruity Pebble Cookies Grow Plus The Mystery Plant

[Carmen Ray]

Zkittlez Auto
Day 66
HARVEST

420 FastBuds said 9-10 weeks, and they were right on. Halfway in between, 9.5 weeks basically. How about that. So rather than blather let's go right to the lather!

First thing I did was take her out of the rig and check the trichomes carefully, which got me this:'

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

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• May 29, 2022

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

That said to me "ready." I decided to chop her. She was nice and dry. Here's what the buds all look like at harvest.

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

I chopped her. Then I trimmed her for hanging. Here's the haul pre-hang trim.

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

Here's a really fun shot of the very bottom of one of the buds that looks excessively cool.

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

Then I hung her up! Here she is, and she is rather well-hung if I do say so myself. I'd hit that.

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

You may have noticed it seemed there was one bud up there that was fully wet trimmed. I always (or almost always) wet trim one appreciable bud, usually one of the densest ones, for a small handful of reasons:
- it dries faster than the non-final-wet-trimmed buds, so can be smoked/tested sooner
- it gives me comparison/data points regarding the difference in drying time between wet trimmed and non
- while not necessary, I've found it a good practice with very dense buds to get more potential moisture off them for the dry, and while these aren't in danger of bud rot (even though they're very dense), it never hurts to do it anyway for each plant, just one....you never know what you might find in the trim and maybe you learn something that necessitates further action, like finding bud rot that was not visible before trimming

And finally, it gives me a chance (and you too!) to get a sneak peek at what they'll end up like!!! Ha!

So all that said, these are the best pics. Saved them for the end.

Here's the same one bud I wet trimmed to completion, from two different angles, and a zoom on showing her trichs.

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

Thank GOD!!!! I was SO sick of looking at that plant.

Now let me congratulate you. That's very pretty bud indeed. Nice haul. Enjoy!

 

[Azimuth]

I might need to bring a towel with in case I get too excited and....you know.....

HA!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is that diy condom for your meter in case  it gets a little too excited?

 

[Jon]

Is that diy condom for your meter in case  it gets a little too excited?

Note that my dry condoms actually fit over that gauge....

 

[Jon]

Starting a Seedling Day 1 - A Sub Heading for Those Who Need It
@Carmen Ray, if anyone else needs tagged just say so!

Ok Carmen, here we go, our sprout is now in the starter pot. Here's precisely what I did, in the order I did it:

1. Re-prepped pot by dumping soil, adding a handful of perlite, mixing thoroughly, and putting it back in the pot.
2. This pot is now DRY as a bone.
3. Wet with water/FF Microbe Brew/Kelp Me Kelp You the central column of the pot to runoff. I let the edges stay dry, there's no reason to wet them at this point. Just the central column about as wide as a nute bottle is wet to the bottom.
4. Used my finger to make a divot in the middle of the soil about nail deep.
5. Used a skewer point to make a "hole within a hole," smaller than the divot, for the tap root to go into.
6. Coated wet hole with Great White. I'm out of DYNOMYCO or I'd use that too.
7. Dropped sprout in hole.
8. Used skewer point to manipulate tap root down into smaller hole with seed coat at the top of skewer hole so only the seed coat is exposed.
9. Covered the divot/sprout with medium, making sure the dirt I use to cover the seedling doesn't have pieces of bark and crap in it, just light soil for her to come up through.
10. THAT IS IT. I DID NOT WATER ON TOP AFTER PUTTING DIRT OVER THE SEEDLING. THE MEDIUM IS ALREADY SOAKED FROM THE TAP ROOT DOWN.

Here's some pictures to display.

This is the divot creation and depth.

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

This is the creation of the hole for the tap root.

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

This is what the sprout looked like when I decided it was time to plant.

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

Then dropped in the divot at random.

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

Then manipulated so tap root is in small hole going down, seed coat up top. Sorry, blurry picture.

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

Then re-covered with soil and we're done.

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• Jon
• May 29, 2022

Now we do nothing but wait. It won't be up tomorrow probably and I'll show you if I water it at all.

There you go. Round one complete. First step is get the seed started properly. This is how I do it every time, coco or soil, auto or photo. All the same at this point.

 

[Jon]

I need to take a step back. I searched for the see through plastic cups and this is all I could find. I think that 1 Gal is equivalent to my 4 Litre black plastic bags? More or less, it is 3,7 L. They are not right for this. What is the hole at the bottom for? I get that you need drainage, but a bigger hole, for what?

Don't sweat it @Carmen Ray. It's not that big a deal, as long as your starter cup will drain. If you don't like taking a big hole out of the center, do individual holes. Just make sure it has good drainage. I like the big hole. It really makes no difference as long as it drains. You can (and I recommend) starting in a one gallon pot instead of a Solo Cup. It's just as easy to water correctly and you can do a lot more before transplant that you can in a Solo cup. That's why I switched up to the slightly less than one gallon pots to start.

Edit: why are you hung up on see through cups? Can you find colored light plastic ones like Solos that will allow you to poke holes without cracking the container? Lots of the clear ones are like yours and crack if you try to make holes. Solos do not, and you want a dark color not clear anyway. Light = not good for roots. Simple as that. I suggest squelching your jones to SEE the roots. You don't need to.

If you really want to have fun with the solo cup, take one cup and cut it all the way in half top to bottom, ie, bisect it tall ways. Now cut a 1/4" off the inside (straight) edge all around top to bottom. Now put this cup inside a complete, non-cut cup the same size with holes poked in the bottom already. This will give you a Solo in a Solo, but the inner one will be split in two with a 1/2 inch slit in the center. Now fill with your medium and use to start the seed. Here's the magic: When you go to up pot, all you do is simply lift off the two sides of the cut in half cup the soil is in. WAY easier and less invasive than pushing it out of the cup. That's my super sneaky tip of the day for you.

 

[Azimuth]

And the solo cups are our way of diy pots, but nothing says you can't just use a regular old flower pot appropriately the same size, and it'll already have the drainage holes in the bottom!

 

[Jon]

A Titan Bud

Here comes the purple. Much of that dark green is headed that way on all the buds. This is as advertised. I was wondering and hoping it would get to the point where I can actually see it's coming. That's this. Yay. You can also see on this bud that I did indeed arrest the foxtailing in time for the tips to fill in, at least on this bud and several of the others. Already you can see the cylinder is getting more like a triangular top, and filling in. Also yay.

 

[Jon]

Just for shits and giggles I took an early trichome picture off a Titan bud with the old scope (which was in the garage at the time right next to me, so...). The old scope is not the new scope, so this is no prize winner, but it's kind of cool to see early developing trichs. More white than I thought I'd see though, I'll say that.

 

[BubbaKush909]

Nice work @Jon! I needed this last week but now I'm an expert

I'm basically using your method and my 2 seedlings, day 8, are both looking fantastic, especially the roots. I think I'm going to stop using the clear plastic cup inside the solo cup now that I'm getting a feel for things. They don't fit that snugly and light gets in between the 2, plus when I'm draining the clear cups the roots are getting light. Also I've got lots of nursery plastic pots that are bigger than a solo cup and would probably work better... what do you think?

 

[Jon]

Nice work @Jon! I needed this last week but now I'm an expert

I'm basically using your method and my 2 seedlings, day 8, are both looking fantastic, especially the roots. I think I'm going to stop using the clear plastic cup inside the solo cup now that I'm getting a feel for things. They don't fit that snugly and light gets in between the 2, plus when I'm draining the clear cups the roots are getting light. Also I've got lots of nursery plastic pots that are bigger than a solo cup and would probably work better... what do you think?

HA! Great timing on the question, @BubbaKush909, I have the answer for you on this one and you will LOVE it. Here's the cut and paste from what I just suggested to Carmen:

If you really want to have fun with the solo cup, take one cup and cut it all the way in half top to bottom, ie, bisect it tall ways. Now cut a 1/4" off the inside (straight) edge all around top to bottom. Now put this cup inside a complete, non-cut cup the same size with holes poked in the bottom already. This will give you a Solo in a Solo, but the inner one will be split in two with a 1/2 inch slit in the center. Now fill with your medium and use to start the seed. Here's the magic: When you go to up pot, all you do is simply lift off the two sides of the cut in half cup the soil is in. WAY easier and less invasive than pushing it out of the cup. That's my super sneaky tip of the day for you.

Do you get it? See what I mean? Do it once and you'll never do it a different way. It makes up potting go flawlessly every single time and doesn't mess with your roots in the least. One of my very favorite secret tricks.

 

[Jon]

HA! Great timing on the question, @BubbaKush909, I have the answer for you on this one and you will LOVE it. Here's the cut and paste from what I just suggested to Carmen:

If you really want to have fun with the solo cup, take one cup and cut it all the way in half top to bottom, ie, bisect it tall ways. Now cut a 1/4" off the inside (straight) edge all around top to bottom. Now put this cup inside a complete, non-cut cup the same size with holes poked in the bottom already. This will give you a Solo in a Solo, but the inner one will be split in two with a 1/2 inch slit in the center. Now fill with your medium and use to start the seed. Here's the magic: When you go to up pot, all you do is simply lift off the two sides of the cut in half cup the soil is in. WAY easier and less invasive than pushing it out of the cup. That's my super sneaky tip of the day for you.

Do you get it? See what I mean? Do it once and you'll never do it a different way. It makes up potting go flawlessly every single time and doesn't mess with your roots in the least. One of my very favorite secret tricks.

But I'd rather use a one gallon pot to start than a Solo, as you suggest. You saw my starter pot, it's a little less than a gallon but way bigger than the 18 ounce Solo cups. That way you can start training confidently and have a real thing to attach wires to or whatever, and you have a way more established root ball when you up pot.

 

[Jon]

Nice work @Jon! I needed this last week but now I'm an expert

I'm basically using your method and my 2 seedlings, day 8, are both looking fantastic, especially the roots. I think I'm going to stop using the clear plastic cup inside the solo cup now that I'm getting a feel for things. They don't fit that snugly and light gets in between the 2, plus when I'm draining the clear cups the roots are getting light. Also I've got lots of nursery plastic pots that are bigger than a solo cup and would probably work better... what do you think?

Hey @BubbaKush909, forgot to thank you for this, appreciate the kind words. Truth be told, the credit isn't really mine, it's @Emilya's - all I'm doing is following her methodology, I think I just do it right. I'm very happy your getting good results with it, and you'll really see the fruits of your labor (literally!) at the end when you see bigger, fatter buds cuz you have bigger, fatter roots!

 

[BubbaKush909]

HA! Great timing on the question, @BubbaKush909, I have the answer for you on this one and you will LOVE it. Here's the cut and paste from what I just suggested to Carmen:

If you really want to have fun with the solo cup, take one cup and cut it all the way in half top to bottom, ie, bisect it tall ways. Now cut a 1/4" off the inside (straight) edge all around top to bottom. Now put this cup inside a complete, non-cut cup the same size with holes poked in the bottom already. This will give you a Solo in a Solo, but the inner one will be split in two with a 1/2 inch slit in the center. Now fill with your medium and use to start the seed. Here's the magic: When you go to up pot, all you do is simply lift off the two sides of the cut in half cup the soil is in. WAY easier and less invasive than pushing it out of the cup. That's my super sneaky tip of the day for you.

Do you get it? See what I mean? Do it once and you'll never do it a different way. It makes up potting go flawlessly every single time and doesn't mess with your roots in the least. One of my very favorite secret tricks.

But I'd rather use a one gallon pot to start than a Solo, as you suggest. You saw my starter pot, it's a little less than a gallon but way bigger than the 18 ounce Solo cups. That way you can start training confidently and have a real thing to attach wires to or whatever, and you have a way more established root ball when you up pot.

Hey @Jon! I like that solo cup trick a lot, great idea! I may be able to do something like that with a larger container, I have to see what's around. Have a great night!

 

[Carmen Ray]

Don't sweat it @Carmen Ray. It's not that big a deal, as long as your starter cup will drain. If you don't like taking a big hole out of the center, do individual holes. Just make sure it has good drainage. I like the big hole. It really makes no difference as long as it drains. You can (and I recommend) starting in a one gallon pot instead of a Solo Cup. It's just as easy to water correctly and you can do a lot more before transplant that you can in a Solo cup. That's why I switched up to the slightly less than one gallon pots to start.

Edit: why are you hung up on see through cups? Can you find colored light plastic ones like Solos that will allow you to poke holes without cracking the container? Lots of the clear ones are like yours and crack if you try to make holes. Solos do not, and you want a dark color not clear anyway. Light = not good for roots. Simple as that. I suggest squelching your jones to SEE the roots. You don't need to.

If you really want to have fun with the solo cup, take one cup and cut it all the way in half top to bottom, ie, bisect it tall ways. Now cut a 1/4" off the inside (straight) edge all around top to bottom. Now put this cup inside a complete, non-cut cup the same size with holes poked in the bottom already. This will give you a Solo in a Solo, but the inner one will be split in two with a 1/2 inch slit in the center. Now fill with your medium and use to start the seed. Here's the magic: When you go to up pot, all you do is simply lift off the two sides of the cut in half cup the soil is in. WAY easier and less invasive than pushing it out of the cup. That's my super sneaky tip of the day for you.

Hi Jon, I really appreciate the trouble you are going to to show me how to water. I don't have any of the products you use, so it is a lot of extra info that I won't be using. I don't have the kind of pots you describe. I am going to use seedling starters from the nursery. I can easily up-pot from those to a 20 Litre pot when they have a root ball. They are more or less an equivalent size to the plastic cup I was using.

(I don't expose my plastic cup of roots to the light. I keep it in a black container at all times, except to check for water and root growth. I'm not hung up about a plastic cup )

To the actual watering process... do I understand you correctly to be saying that you wet the medium before the seed goes in? I dampened mine this last time and had a bad result. Your added perlite will make some difference. I will be using as is, from the factory. How wet should it be?

 

[Jon]

Hi Jon, I really appreciate the trouble you are going to to show me how to water. I don't have any of the products you use, so it is a lot of extra info that I won't be using. I don't have the kind of pots you describe. I am going to use seedling starters from the nursery. I can easily up-pot from those to a 20 Litre pot when they have a root ball. They are more or less an equivalent size to the plastic cup I was using.

(I don't expose my plastic cup of roots to the light. I keep it in a black container at all times, except to check for water and root growth. I'm not hung up about a plastic cup )

To the actual watering process... do I understand you correctly to be saying that you wet the medium before the seed goes in? I dampened mine this last time and had a bad result. Your added perlite will make some difference. I will be using as is, from the factory. How wet should it be?

Morning @Carmen Ray - Okay, those will work great. Perfect.

Yes, I wet the medium top to bottom in the center where the seedling is going to go. Do this right before you drop the seed in. It should be completely dry before that. Our job for the first three or four days is to build our tap root. That's the first order of business. So when we begin watering, we're not going to water anywhere but right down the middle for three or four days. This gives the tap root time to establish itself. THEN we start building the roots outward. The wetting before you put the seed in is so the tap root goes immediately into wet soil. After this we are using nothing but a spray bottle or pipette to water, and we won't be watering to runoff or anything close for a while.

 

[Jon]

This Morning's Catch


This picture is just to butter you up for the carnage I'm about to show you. Well, not carnage exactly, but let's just say we're now into some rather extreme support measures in the Jungle. I had buds falling all over the place when I woke the girls up this morning. Like, all over the place. It's easy to tell that my buds are growing, I just have to see what's falling today. Lol. We did some serious shit to take care of it. See next post. Call this a teaser, and enjoy the fish.

 

[Jon]

Ok, you want to see EXTREME support measures?
Post #1 of 3 - ELORA

I'll begin by saying I can't stand having to do this. Note to self: 8' tall plants with 6' tall stems will make gigantic, heavy buds, and there's not enough MSA on earth to keep them from needing serious support - next time, keep them a bit shorter you dumbass, what did you think was going to happen? Of COURSE they're falling all over the place. Idiot.

Ok, now that I spanked myself, there's not a lot of verbiage required to explain the situation. The buds all needed serious support measures. All three plants. Everywhere. It was almost like starting from scratch as the lower supports I was hoping would suffice are long past the point of being effective. I needed very extreme measures, or at least what I consider pretty damn extreme. Here's the story in pictures:

1. This is the fencing that was already in place and which supports the side of the plant which faces the front door of the tent. I raised this and supported it much more strongly with longer bamboo stakes poked all the way to the bottom of the pot. What you see here is post raising it up. It's a good 2.5 feet off the top of the pot and up the plant.

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

2. This is the folding metal office chair that now support the entire right side of the plant. I show it from several angles here to show you what it sits on (table), what it supports, etc.

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

3. And there are also manipulations to some of the bamboo stakes underneath, but you can't see those differences visually, so just take my word for it. What you just saw was not at all easy to do, and required great care, extensive manipulation, and basically was a royal pain in the ass. However, I'm not the dullest knife in the drawer, and when I was finally finished with her, Elora is standing up nice and straight, and really at this point has no choice but to stay this way. The stems being supported by the chair, for example, are all duct taped to the chair. They ain't going anywhere. Nobody is breaching the grey plastic fence either, and the Spud Bud and Fulvia keep the few stems not supported by anything from being able to fall anywhere. Here's the best picture I can get to show you the effectiveness of these measures.

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

So all that was a serious PHEW moment when it was done, and then I had to tackle the damn Spud Bud. She was a mess. Next post. I have one for each plant.

 

[StoneOtter]

Ok, you want to see EXTREME support measures?
Post #1 of 3 - ELORA

I'll begin by saying I can't stand having to do this. Note to self: 8' tall plants with 6' tall stems will make gigantic, heavy buds, and there's not enough MSA on earth to keep them from needing serious support - next time, keep them a bit shorter you dumbass, what did you think was going to happen? Of COURSE they're falling all over the place. Idiot.

Ok, now that I spanked myself, there's not a lot of verbiage required to explain the situation. The buds all needed serious support measures. All three plants. Everywhere. It was almost like starting from scratch as the lower supports I was hoping would suffice are long past the point of being effective. I needed very extreme measures, or at least what I consider pretty damn extreme. Here's the story in pictures:

1. This is the fencing that was already in place and which supports the side of the plant which faces the front door of the tent. I raised this and supported it much more strongly with longer bamboo stakes poked all the way to the bottom of the pot. What you see here is post raising it up. It's a good 2.5 feet off the top of the pot and up the plant.

IMG_2275.jpg

• Jon
• May 30, 2022

2. This is the folding metal office chair that now support the entire right side of the plant. I show it from several angles here to show you what it sits on (table), what it supports, etc.

IMG_2271.jpg

• Jon
• May 30, 2022

IMG_2277.jpg

• Jon
• May 30, 2022

IMG_2273.jpg

• Jon
• May 30, 2022

IMG_2276.jpg

• Jon
• May 30, 2022

3. And there are also manipulations to some of the bamboo stakes underneath, but you can't see those differences visually, so just take my word for it. What you just saw was not at all easy to do, and required great care, extensive manipulation, and basically was a royal pain in the ass. However, I'm not the dullest knife in the drawer, and when I was finally finished with her, Elora is standing up nice and straight, and really at this point has no choice but to stay this way. The stems being supported by the chair, for example, are all duct taped to the chair. They ain't going anywhere. Nobody is breaching the grey plastic fence either, and the Spud Bud and Fulvia keep the few stems not supported by anything from being able to fall anywhere. Here's the best picture I can get to show you the effectiveness of these measures.

IMG_2278.jpg

• Jon
• May 30, 2022

So all that was a serious PHEW moment when it was done, and then I had to tackle the damn Spud Bud. She was a mess. Next post. I have one for each plant.

If you can get that to have motion you could call it a Rube Goldberg contraption but all necessary!

 

[Jon]

Ok, you want to see EXTREME support measures?
Post #2 of 3 - SPUD BUD/MYSTERY PLANT

The problem with Spud is that she has long, thin stems with now heavy buds on them. Her other problem is that the head of the plant is so top heavy compared to the relatively thin, long main stem. So even kept together as a ring, the whole ring falls to whatever side it falls to. This morning it was awful. So.....

1. First we installed a second ring around the whole of the head, this one is green twistie stuff. The other is the green plant twine. There is an upper ring and a lower ring around the head. This keeps the buds together in a ring, as they are held from falling into the ring by the white colander. So tightening that part up was the first order of business, and then we tied that new loop around the ring to the CFM bar on the left side, seen (poorly) here. You can see where it ties to the bar and goes around the head.

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

2. Then we had to support the whole of the head of the plant forward, towards the middle of the tent, as it was falling as a whole towards the door following step one. At least now it was falling as one head, or one whole thing. That made the next step easier. So then we put in some long bamboo stakes to push against the plant itself and the colander, thus straightening the entire thing up. This is a four picture, bottom to top, montage, showing the structure.

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

3. Then we needed to push on the back (middle of tent) side of the head to finally get her fully straight up, and that required putting two stakes on the back side of the plant, including one that was stuck into Fulvia's pot. Those two are shown here.

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

4. All of the above had the desired result. Here's two shots of her post all the work, one showing how off the wall she is and then going to the right.

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

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• Jon
• May 30, 2022

So that was PHEW moment #2, and she should be okay now as well. That took care of the one side of the tent.

 

[Bill284]

If you can get that to have motion you could call it a Rube Goldberg contraption but all necessary!

Nube-Goldberg

Stay safe
Bill