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Kunta's Spider Mite Advice

Smokin Moose

Fallen Cannabis Warrior
Mites are by far the most hard to get rid of pests that attack indoor gardens-- weakening the plant and affecting yield-- badly infested plants yield poorly. I've used many methods to kill mites, everything from wishing they'll go away to spraying with toxic concoctions that would stop a charging rhino is it's tracks, some things I've learned are:

* Wear gloves and spray in a ventilated area-- have a good wash with soap afterwards.

* Shake the bottle before opening, take your time and measure out the exact ratio of poison to water.

* It's best and easiest to attack mites as soon as you notice them, indoors they can multiply from just a few to being everywhere in a matter of 5 - 10 days-- hit them fast and hard.

* Make a habit of looking under leaves for mites and on the top of the leaves for pale coloured, groups of " pin dot " signs of damage, which usually begin on leaves from the bottom half of the plant-- a quick check for mites every time you poke your head in the grow room-- that's second nature to any grower who has been hit hard by them before.

* Rid the growroom and it's vicinity of any other plants, or treat every plant in the house.

* Don't go near your grow area if you have been outside and have touched other plants, always wash and change first.

* If you haven't got an adjustable pump up pressure sprayer/mister, get one-- a must for all growers-- use a medium fine spray with a strong pressure and spray both sides of every leaf, hold the pot up with one hand and spray the undersides from the bottom up, then spray the outer surfaces (I give the outside of the pot, the soil surface and the grow room's walls a spray as well).

* Spray with a specialized mite spray in the recommended dosages. There are several products available from any garden centre, the active ingredient to look for is "DICOFOL", it kills mites, and you'll never see one for 3 months end of story. One hit is all that is needed, I've never had a need to re-spray-- this stuff has residual killing ability.

In Australia there are two mite sprays that contain dicofol that I've used-- Hortico's red spider miticide and Garden King's red spider miticide, both are one hit wonders.

* Forget those garlic/tobacco/chilli etc sprays and other store bought "general purpose" insect sprays-- they never seem to win the war against mites or require multiple applications (I've never used neem oil or insecticide soaps).

They state on the mite spray bottles that with dicofol sprays you can eat treated vegetables 7 days after spraying-- as this poison is only used once (late veg or early flowering is as late as I would spray or would need to) and with 50 -70 days between spraying and sampling, there should be no health issues.

I don't spray outdoor plants with mites; I let nature take its course. Around the same time each year I'm attacked by the same type of insect, caterpillars, grasshoppers, mites etc. Conditions become ideal, they multiply, they have their time and then with a change in conditions and with the help of predators they are gone.

Fast growing happy plants with the help of natural predators will resist mites and the plants will outgrow any damage, if you spray poisons you may kill their predators as well, upsetting the balance of nature, causing re-infestations if conditions are right, any way, it's too hard to spray trees outdoors-- if the wind changes, you might get a face full of spray, and who can reach this high!!!!! ha!

Editor's note:
Horticulture soaps (Such as "Safers insecticidal soap), pyrethrins and neem have limited killing effect, although if plants are dipped, the killing % reaches 90%+. Multiple applications will be required.
 

prosmoke

New Member
There is some shit from australia that is fairly new. Spider mits dont have a resistance to em.

Spider mites destroy plant cells by sucking out their contents, and Mite-Rid works by providing a barrier which is harmless to the plant, but fatal to the mites. Some of the components of Mite-Rid are also absorbed by the plant and then suppress the life cycle of the mites. Mite-Rid uses a unique formula of botanical oils, including neem, garlic, eucalyptus plus surfactants to provide a protective barrier against many leaf eating pests, and most effectively, the Spider Mite.
The main active ingredient, neem oil, contains a limonoid called azadirachtin which has steroids (campesterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol) which interrupt the normal hormonal balance of mites, suppressing its reproductive cycle. The neem oil used in Mite-Rid is cold pressed, as only oil of this quality will contain these steroids.

Mite-Rid is fully bio-degradable and is not toxic to animals and under normal use will not affect the plant's metabolism. Highly effective against two-spotted and red mites, Mite-Rid is also reporting success with Eriophyid mites such as the "Fuschia Gall Mite" which is endemic to parts of California and also known as the "Mendo" or "Mendocino mini". Mite-Rid comes in a concentrate form, and the 45ml bottle mixes with water to make 18 litres ( 32.7 pints) of mite killing spray.
One thorough application is usualy enough, but heavy infestations may require two, as the tiny eggs can be a bit more resilient; so we recommend a second application in these cases.
Get them before they get your plants!

They say prevention is better than cure, and just a little Mite-Rid goes a long way to preventing mite infestation. A periodic spray with Mite-Rid is the best way to never see your plants suffering an attack of spider mites.
Remember, when it's hot, and dry, mites are just a gentle breeze away from your plants, and they usually go undetected until they've multiplied to plague proportions. Just one spray every few weeks in the hottest season will protect your crop from this near invisible pest.
Whether you're an indoor grower, greenhouse grower, hydroponic grower, or outdoor grower, sooner or later the mites will find you!

Don't wait to see the damage,
get them BEFORE they get your plants!

I used this shit because i had an infestation early. I read about it on a forum and got some. (i was lucky cuz only one retailer was even selling it in the u.s. at that point, and he had just started a month prior)

After one application everything was gone.

give this one a try if you got the mites. THIS SHIT WORKS!
 
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Tulip

New Member
New first time growers and experienced growers need to be aware how they get spider mites andhow they bring them into the house or apartment.

They did not know that high humidity, high moisture, and bright lights attracks all kinds of bugs.

They did not spray the floor and walls with a safe pesticide before starting the grow. Our vetanarian reccomends Home Defense.

They did not use any pest strips near the door.

They did allow the cat or dog to come into the area.

They did wear shoes outdoors and then walk around the grow area with the same shoes on.

They did bring in tools from outside, from the barn, the garage, and from the yard into the grow area.

They did have some soil plants growing near the hydro area.

They did not sterilize the soil they used from outdoors.

They did leave a window open to let some fresh air in.

They did work in the outdoor garden and then come inside and work in the indoor garden area.

They did not clean their clones they bought and then brought home.

And just like you don't wait until you get a cut to buy bandaids, you don't wait until you get spider mites to buy some Sierra Natural Spider Mite Medicine.
 

Tulip

New Member
Yep, amen, bro, Granny said it, an ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure!
 
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stonewallred

New Member
Question.
I use a homemade pesticide around the house for killing any creepy crawlies I see, especially spiders.
It is the old few cigarettes and a little liquid soap in water, soak then simmer to reduce.
Blows my mind that the same stuff I puff on all day works so well at killing bugs, and I still don't stop.
Would this hurt the plants?
It kills spiders, ants, roaches, slugs, wasps, bees and all kinds of unidentified bugs within a few seconds.
 

JJ Bones

Nug of the Month: Feb 2013
This thread is full of great information, and rules to follow. Prevention truly is the key.

Another method is to pump up CO2 in your room to 5,000 PPM or more for about half an hour. Spider-mites cannot live with high concentrations of CO2.
 

Oldmxer

New Member
THis thread is also somewhat useless w/o pics of said Spider Mites.....Anyone ?
 

Tulip

New Member
1134sukalo_spidermiteseggs.jpg



1134Spidermite_speckling2.jpg




1134DWC_19-11_spidermites1.jpg
 

John Galt

New Member
From my experience, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Whenever I would relocate to a new location to begin growing, I would do what I did when I moved to where I live now: Bomb the shit out of the entire structure. After that, I apply any barrier pesticide around the perimeter of the structure, and then additional applications of the barrier pesticide inside the structure in between rooms--basement included.

You MUST THINK! Where is it possible for something as small as a mite to enter your grow room or even your house? Try your best to be thoughtful and detailed in your assessment, and be sure to apply a barrier pesticide amply at all such points of entry. Once you have done this, you should immediately be prepared to construct your growing environment. It doesn't matter if you will be constructing rooms, or erecting a tent, the poisons should already have been applied to kill off all pests before you do what you do.

I am rather partial to grow tents. I call them grow modules. So, once I have totally bombed the main structure and all rooms within, and amply and intelligently applied barricade pesticides, I erect my tent(s), and bomb them and the room that they reside in. I barricade the base of the tent, and all possible points of entry within and around the tent (port holes, etc.), and begin my grow.

I maintain as close to sterile as possible in my grow environments, which means that the walls, floor, ceiling to the tent are maintained to a point to cleanliness. This means that everything is white. If the pots/buckets that I use to grow in are not white, I paint them white. This has two benefits: it affords maximum reflection of light (who can say that this is a bad thing?), AND it causes pests to STAND OUT. Aside from daily checks of my plant's leaves, I look around the floor, and all surfaces where mites mite be.

My routine is:

Docktor Doom to bomb my grow room/environment every month.
Any Powerful bug bomb for the rest of the house/building every month.
Reapplication of barrier insecticides every month.

This routine is the least expensive and intrusive solution that I have found; and my plants were and are presently doing just lovely.

Peace!
 

Oldmxer

New Member
Thanks for the pics and ensuing preaching :) I have some squash and cantalopes outside, so I'm not sure anything I might try will give anything near 100% protection. What I can do is acquire Dr. Doom and some Neem oil. I can now treat all the areas and my babies to greatly eliminate the chance this will happen again. Thanks all !
 
This thread is full of great information, and rules to follow. Prevention truly is the key.

Another method is to pump up CO2 in your room to 5,000 PPM or more for about half an hour. Spider-mites cannot live with high concentrations of CO2.
Plants don't like over 1500 ppm either
 
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