Leaves drooping, no idea

[InTheShed]

Does that mean it's rootbound?

Without a doubt. And rootbound plants can show issues that mimic others.

You might want to try root coring, where you punch narrow holes from the surface to about 3/4 down from top. Really heavy gauge wire will do, something around 9 or 10 gauge (2.5-3mm). It creates pathways for water to get to roots that may have a hard time accessing it otherwise.

Here is a diagram from Derbybud, who introduced the process to me.

 

[MoSkeeto420]

As far as lights being to close. Stick your top of your hand or your wrist next to the closest bud to the light. You will feel heat on your hand if it’s to close you won’t be able to keep your hand there and it will feel to hot.

To hot for your thin skin on your top of your hand or your wrist is to hot for the top buds.

seeing as how your light is not a big 1000 watt light and it’s newer technology then the hps lighting and run much cooler you should be able to put them very close to your plants.

I use this method to see how close I can get my hps light to my plants. Another thing I do is if I want them really close it point a fan directly at the light. I have not upgraded and got the light cover/tube to blow air threw so I can put the light closer to my plants without doing what I mentioned above. One day I will lol.

 

[InTheShed]

Keep in mind that a plant can have light stress even when the leaves are cool.

 

[Virgin Ground]

That works with hps not led.
You can stress them in cool temps if the light is too close. You should go by mfgr suggestions. They can vary from light to light.

 

[Northern Light]

Without a doubt. And rootbound plants can show issues that mimic others.

You might want to try root coring, where you punch narrow holes from the surface to about 3/4 down from top. Really heavy gauge wire will do, something around 9 or 10 gauge (2.5-3mm). It creates pathways for water to get to roots that may have a hard time accessing it otherwise.

Here is a diagram from Derbybud, who introduced the process to me.

Wow, I've never heard about this method, thank you @InTheShed.
By the way, it still absorbs water, it only does it quite slowly. Maybe I should check which parts of the fabric pot don't get wet after a good watering, those are the parts where the roots are the most condensed, I guess.

What do you guys think about bud development? Aren't these flowers underdeveloped, considering it's 9+weeks old (with a 9-10 weeks of life cycle according to the seed bank)? I should note though that the stretch took way longer than I would have expected, it was probably 10 days ago when it stopped, but I'm not even sure it didn't grow a few centimeters since then.

Regarding light stress, I have increased the height of the light by about 5-6cm (~2 inches), that is all I could do, my carbon filter and the overall dimensions of the tent won't allow more. Still, it does help a bit.

 

[Buds Buddy]

Wow, I've never heard about this method, thank you @InTheShed.
By the way, it still absorbs water, it only does it quite slowly. Maybe I should check which parts of the fabric pot don't get wet after a good watering, those are the parts where the roots are the most condensed, I guess.

What do you guys think about bud development? Aren't these flowers underdeveloped, considering it's 9+weeks old (with a 9-10 weeks of life cycle according to the seed bank)? I should note though that the stretch took way longer than I would have expected, it was probably 10 days ago when it stopped, but I'm not even sure it didn't grow a few centimeters since then.

Regarding light stress, I have increased the height of the light by about 5-6cm (~2 inches), that is all I could do, my carbon filter and the overall dimensions of the tent won't allow more. Still, it does help a bit.

You can't go by the time the seed banks say. My last grow I did a N.L. auto & that plant took close to 4 months to finish. I'm not finding that Auto's finish much faster than Photo's. Only finding that running my lights 20 hours per day costs me more. For that reason I went back to photo's.
Besides that, it seems to me that photo's are more potent than auto's. At least none of my auto's got me stoned 3 times off 1 joint where my photo's do. Probably has something to do with Ruderails in Auto's.

 

[Northern Light]

You can't go by the time the seed banks say. My last grow I did a N.L. auto & that plant took close to 4 months to finish. I'm not finding that Auto's finish much faster than Photo's. Only finding that running my lights 20 hours per day costs me more. For that reason I went back to photo's.
Besides that, it seems to me that photo's are more potent than auto's. At least none of my auto's got me stoned 3 times off 1 joint where my photo's do. Probably has something to do with Ruderails in Auto's.

Well, autos are indeed less potent on average, and yes, this is due to the ruderalis genetics. But at the same time, autos do finish quicker, at least on average, too. My longest living auto was 14 weeks old (instead of the advertised 8-10 weeks), but most of them finishes in 8-12 weeks. Some sativa photos take 8-10 weeks just to get through flowering, I have no doubt that they are in another ballpark.
Still, I know that the seedbanks' estimation is really only an estimation. I believe I won't have to chop this NL down for another 2-3 weeks at least, but my main interest with this question was whether the flowers look severely underdeveloped at this age or she's just a bit slow.