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Leaves keep turning yellow: truly need your expertise

Sarra

New Member
Hii all,, Thanks to all in advance for your help..
I've 4 babies, 2 critical 2 white widow, born btw April 4-8. FFOF soil mixed with %30 perlite, %10 worm castings, been transplanted once to 3gal pots on May 29th, 4 nutrients spikes in each containing
2 parts blood meal
1 part bone meal
1 part high N bat guano
and "Wow Wallace organic Wonder " added around the roots when transplant. 1st watering was on the 8th even though they didn't give me any sign of Thirst. 2nd Watering was little over a week ago even though they still didn't show any signs of thirst just Light in weight And more yellow leaves in the bottom. Humidifier was Put on June 12 and just 4 days ago I Finally got Alaskan fish liquid Fertilizer. I Diluted 3 tbsp with one gallon of water and wattered the plant a very small dose so I don't mess with the watering cycle and I sprayed the leaves with the solutionand I removed all the yellow leaves.
The leaves keep turning yellow.
Please I need Suggestions of what my the problem be and if you guys have any advices for the next steps.
 

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Nunyabiz

Well-Known Member
It could be, but it could be any number of different things.

I'd flush it and start fresh.
The spikes stood out because everything in them can burn your plants if they get too much.
The FFoF should be enough on it's own for a month or more.
And 4 of those spikes in a small pot of already fairly nutrient rich soil is probably throwing everything outa whack.
 
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Hdinkleman

Well-Known Member
all those extra nutes you added to the ffof is messin up your ph and screwing your plant.

transplant it into plain ffof and maybe some perlite AND NOTHING ELSE and the plant will recover.

trust me i have made the same mistakes.

we need to have a PSA for noobs starting out that says DO NOT ADD ANYTHING TO YOUR SOIL. just water it correctly and use a bottled nute FEEDING SCHEDULE AS DIRECTED
 

Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019 - Grow Journal of the Month: Jan 2020
I have no problem at all with your nutrient spikes. This is how I grow, with raw mineral nutrient spikes in both my vegging containers and my flowering containers. There is nothing at all wrong with what you are doing, and all these folks advising you otherwise maybe have not seen my living organic grow journals.
The problem with your grow is that although you have all the needed nutrients in there, you have not said anything about enhancing the microlife that will actually process these wonderful nutrients into a form that the plants can use. You need a strong microbial infusion. I strongly suggest looking into Voodoo Juice, or my new favorite, Realgrowers Recharge, and within 48 hours you can see a turnaround in your plants where they suddenly because they have healthy hungry microbes, are able to get the nutrients that are readily available in your soil, but currently unable to be used.
So stand assured that in a true organic grow, you need have no concern about pH, either of the soil or the water coming in, and yes, the zones around your nutrient spikes will be an odd pH, but with the proper microlife, some will specialize in working in those areas and those particular nutrients.
Thanks for reaching out so that I saw this thread. You were getting some advice to simply start over, which is never the answer to someone trying to understand the method they have chosen and are asking advice about. You can fix this grow, you just need to complete the feeding cycle by adding the microbes that do all the heavy lifting, and that great mineralized soil and all the added organics will come alive.
 
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Hdinkleman

Well-Known Member
grow a plant with just ff nutes and follow their program if he is just beginning and hasnt gotten his stuff dialed in.
easiest way if youre gonna use ffof anyways.

i have fallen into the whole “i need to add more” this and that. things for me got alot easier when i just followed a simple feed schedule.
i got boxes of all types of organic amendments, i hardly use them anymore, its easier to just follow some written instruction lol
 

mojuan

Well-Known Member
all those extra nutes you added to the ffof is messin up your ph and screwing your plant.

transplant it into plain ffof and maybe some perlite AND NOTHING ELSE and the plant will recover.

trust me i have made the same mistakes.

we need to have a PSA for noobs starting out that says DO NOT ADD ANYTHING TO YOUR SOIL. just water it correctly and use a bottled nute FEEDING SCHEDULE AS DIRECTED
Yep on the PSA lol
 

Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019 - Grow Journal of the Month: Jan 2020
I am guessing the resident expert isnt familiar with Wow Wallace organic Wonder which is supposed to be a pretty good mycorrhazae inoculant.
lol Nunyabiz, there is a world of difference between that product and one that includes active protozoa and amoebas and other voraciously hungry and quickly multiplying 70% efficient eating machines in a mix that has been specially bred to be exactly the tribe that we need in our soil to break down the minerals that this poster has rightly added to the soil.
Mycorrhizae are in the class of specialized fungi that form a symbiotic relationship with the roots... a horse of a different color.
So yeah, I am pretty familiar with what I am talking about. :peace::love:
Yep on the PSA lol
If you know what you are doing, there is nothing wrong with adding worm castings, and if you read carefully, there are only 4 pure mineral nutrient spikes, a perfectly common and well proven method of providing minerals to an organic grow. Lets make sure we are sure of our facts before we automatically diss someone's method.
 

TysonOG

Well-Known Member
Technically everyone is right, it just depends which way you want to go. FF soil works well by itself with added nutes later on. Going microbial and beginning a "living soil" is more advanced but has it benefits, some of which Emilya mentioned. It's not for everybody, but would work well for your situation. You dont have to tho, but if you don't then you should transplant and water like @Hdinkleman stated. And you'll need to monitor your nutes and pH more carefully then if you used a more organic approach to the soil.
 

Nunyabiz

Well-Known Member
lol Nunyabiz, there is a world of difference between that product and one that includes active protozoa and amoebas and other voraciously hungry and quickly multiplying 70% efficient eating machines in a mix that has been specially bred to be exactly the tribe that we need in our soil to break down the minerals that this poster has rightly added to the soil.
Mycorrhizae are in the class of specialized fungi that form a symbiotic relationship with the roots... a horse of a different color.
So yeah, I am pretty familiar with what I am talking about. :peace::love:

If you know what you are doing, there is nothing wrong with adding worm castings, and if you read carefully, there are only 4 pure mineral nutrient spikes, a perfectly common and well proven method of providing minerals to an organic grow. Lets make sure we are sure of our facts before we automatically diss someone's method.
That's why I use Rootwise Microbe Complete.
I know nothing of the one she's using other than I heard lots of people using it, it's supposed to be just a rebadged Extreme Gardening Mycos and this guy just rebags it and charges more.

But they did attempt to properly inoculate with microbes, just not the best for this purpose.

I see what's most likely bit too hot of soil, you see just the opposite.
I am not dissing anything, merely made an observation.
 
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Hdinkleman

Well-Known Member
my theory for giving advice is KISS
less is more for the most part
its usually the less experienced that are asking for help (i.e me)

youd be amazed how well a plant grows with just tap water and ffof.
nothing crazy but its something to build on rather than adding tons of things and then not knowing where you went wrong.

its pretty obvious from OPs post its something in her nute spikes that are causing the problem whatever it is.
 

Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019 - Grow Journal of the Month: Jan 2020
The reason that nutrient spikes work is that the roots are not thrust into that hot zone, they have a choice to grow around the spike or into it. The roots that grow into that hot zone adapt, so that they are able to deal with the high pH, higher temperatures and the nutrients found in that region. Because the roots make a choice to adapt and go into that area, they are not burned by it. The nutrient spikes are NOT the problem here.
Bring in more microbes... they can process what is here and get it to the plants.
 
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