Leaves problem: experienced growers, I'm at your mercy

Also if you are not already aware most damage or deformation to leaves is irreversible so don't be too optimistic about having these leaves correct themselves. Focus on the new growth and how it's looking.
Thank you for the insight, that is something I hadn't considered but now that you mention it, it makes complete sense. I will focus my attention on a stricter cycle for the new growth and compare.
 
I was just like the tomato growers lol, just stick my finger and check how dry the dirt is. Now I'm a little lost on what's a proper watering schedule/technique, I'll try to start taking notes on how much each plant is drinking and how long it takes it to get fully dry. I welcome any suggestions ....
Glad we are helping to get your plant sorted out Sarra. What I would highly suggest is to let all of your plants go dry to the point they start to sag pretty good. I realize for newer growers that may be hard to stomach but trust me, these plants are much better off in the long run if too dry than too wet. Cannabis does not do well at all with too wet. So please, for you and your plants, let them go dry until the leafs sag. Once they do, take notice of how extremely light the pots feel. Then give them a thorough watering to the point that all soil is completely saturated and runoff is coming from the bottom of the pots. Our plants need a very clear wet and dry cycle. After you let them go to the point of sagging once then you will have a better grasp on when it's time to drench again. It's best after this first time of doing this to then try to look for the first sign of sagging then drench. This also keeps the soil pH working correctly. If you always have a wet spot somewhere in the middle of the pot that isnt allowed to dry out between waterings it will cause the peat moss in your Fox Farm soil to decay and your soil pH will nose dive causing all sorts of root issues and nutrient issues because of it. Tough love sarra, tough love. Sometimes we think we know what's best for the plants but we need to let them communicate with us so we don't kill them with "love".
 
Thank you so much for your suggestions as well as the manner in which you explained everything. I understood it perfectly (I hope lol) and while I am not one for tough love, my dogs can attest to that haha, I am going to do my best! I appreciate you familiarizing yourself with my soil and will document as I go along.
 
Also Sarra as a follow up to what Fanleaf described feel free to click on the link in my signature just below this paragraph titled "how dry before the next watering". That will give you an example of how a plant will wilt when dried out. It's not good to dry out a flowering plant too much but a vegging one does well with it. Within that thread I suggested to you there is also another link created by Emilya regarding how to properly water a potted plant. It's a great read and helps many new growers with their watering.
Happy Growing! :ganjamon:
 
That old school finger trick is OK for tomatoes grown out doors in garden.

Not so much in a container or container gardening.

It would seem they are pretty much the same but as you found out, letting soil get dry in a container with a live plant is not that great.

I'm and organic gardener.

The really only way to over water a cannabis plant is when they are young say up to about 3 weeks after seedling stage. I would say 2 weeks then something would die. So after 3 weeks you can start keeping the soil moist at all times. Eventually you will be watering EVERY DAY. Not just a cup or 2 but gallons.

4 adult flowering cannabis plants will drink up a 5 gallon bucket of water easily in a day or 2. By day 2 they will likely show signs of wilting.

In a container dont go but soil dryness. Just water regularly.

Your water quality is of some importance. As this cycle of watering becomes more intense there may be an abundance of 1 or a few micro nutrients in the water that become toxic to plants. Only becomes an issue due to growing in a container and there is very little to buffer any extremes in nutrients from the water.

So as a sorta guide to watering.

Seedlings I let the soil dry out say 3-4 days between watering

small plants usually start watering every 2-3 days but not a ton of water not enough to run off out the btm - keep the soil moist but not wet.

Meduim size plants and up - water regularly meaning every other day to run off.

Flowering plants many need watering every day unless you are in 10 gal or larger containers.


At some point you're going to need to put these plants in a larger container with some added fresh soil.

I usually add in 1/2 cup of worm castings and 1/4 cup of Kelp meal to the hole with some mycos that actually touches the root ball.

I suggest goggling this:

"Wallace Organic Wonder Premium Mycorrhizal Inoculant"

1 tsp to the new hole on top of the EWC (castings) put the plant in there and fill with fresh soil mix.

You got this - btw your plants look fine - even the "wired" one.


What strains are you growing?
 
Well bobrown14, you saved me many questions I was going crazy trying to get an answer for . Very much appreciated.
Just to make I understood correctly, as nutrients for the soil for the next steps I need worm castings, Kelp meal and mycos which is Wallace Organic Wonder Premium Mycorrhizal Inoculant. Just put all the above in the hole or mix worm castings and kelp meal with the soil and Wallace Organic Wonder in the hole? Do you think I should add lime as well?

Do you have any suggestions of what nutrients brand is good for ffof?
Do you think it's better to move them to 3 gallons pot then 5 gallons or strait to 5 gallons. I'm planning to get fabric as I heard they are way better than plastic.

I'm sorry for all the questions, it's my first grow and I'm far from having a green thumb lol.

I'm growing white widow and critical, both fem. Ik very glad you think they look good
 
Hi Sarra.
Mix in the worm casting and kelp meal to the new soil. Shape a hole with your current (smaller) pot in the bigger container, that way you can easily slide it in after. Pour the mycos on the inner surface of this hole. Not only the bottom, but the sides of the hole too. Lime always comes handy as I heard, you can mix a bit of it to the soil.
If you prepare a good organic soil, you might not even need any additional, bottled nutrients. However, you might do. I can't give an advice on that, as I live in Europe, there's no ffof here.
Fabric pots are indeed superior compared to classic, hard-walled, plastic pots in many ways. Be sure not to let the fabric pots sit in the runoff water, get something to lift the pots.
The uppotting question with these volumes are a bit tricky, I believe. There's not that much difference between 3 and 5 gal pots. I think most growers used to uppot to a pot that's minimum three times the size of the previous one. So something like cup-1gal-3gal-10gal, if they ever go that large. This does not mean that you can't uppot from 3gal to 5gal, but uppotting can be a major stress for plants, so you want to consider if you prefer better rootball development with the added stress (that's 3 to 5), or you skip the 3gal and go straight into 5gal. Or maybe get a bigger (like 8-10gal) container, then it makes more sense for uppotting twice. This, of course, depends on the available space.

Happy growing! :green_heart:
 
I usually add in 1/2 cup of worm castings and 1/4 cup of Kelp meal to the hole with some mycos that actually touches the root ball.

I suggest goggling this:

"Wallace Organic Wonder Premium Mycorrhizal Inoculant"

1 tsp to the new hole on top of the EWC (castings) put the plant in there and fill with fresh soil mix.
With the little info I collected in this short period of time. And thankfully to all the growers and the help, which my small budget I bought Blood meal, Bone meal, Nitrogen bat guano, Wallace Organic Wonder, worm castings, Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer. I'm still in debate of how to use the nutrients in the best way, my wife interest in mixing the nutrients with the soil but we still haven't come up with the right percentage. And I'm interested in spikes method where you put the nutrients mix like a spike in the soil..
We shall see..
 
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