LED help

Dani smoke

Well-Known Member
So, I'm off with a sog, just some bag seeds of red Russian kush and power plant, I'm currently using a 600watt hps, but it's costing far too much and since its not at my property I'm obliged to cut down power usage, il be purchasing a 320quantum board after the sog grow, however I'm wanting a led that will pull off some decent buds to start me off, I'm in a 1.2by1.2 tent, il be running probably 10 for the sog maybe more, I have a budget off 250/300 maximum for this grow until I can afford the quatum but what led is going to be worth a purchase that cud possibly run along side the quatum board in flower in future grows, iv looked at vivaspec and Mars but I never hear good reviews on these leds, iv also looked at the spider farmer quatum boards, any info is goin to be helpfull here thanks in advance
 
That's a 1.44 m² (15.5 ft²) grow space. By the numbers, 775 watts would be recommended for flowering photoperiodic strains, and I've seen 1,000-watt HPS used to good effect (with proper ventilation). What kind of harvest weight are you getting with the 600-watt light in there?
 
unless you have use for another light elsewhere later, best thing is to just suck it up and buy the qbs now if you need to make the jump to led.

if it's straight budget keeping you from it, it may be better to run the light you have, and offer to compensate the proprietors a couple hundred for power. just a thought.
 
Hi Dani, thanks for considering Mars Hydro, there are many growers on 420magazine using Mars lights, and you can search a lot from youtube as well. :circle-of-love:
For your space, if you choose Mars Hydro, you can try our two of our SP-250, it can cover at least 5x5 during veg and 4x4 during flower, total wattage is around 460w, and price is around 500USD, but I can see that your budget ist tight, so I would like to recommend our TSW-2000 , it can cover good for 4x4 during veg and 3x3 during flower, you can use this light first, when flowering, you may have more money, and you can buy a small light to compensate in your tents. The light is around 300w. :)

 
but I can see that your budget ist tight, so I would like to recommend our TSW-2000 , it can cover good for 4x4 during veg and 3x3 during flower, you can use this light first, when flowering, you may have more money, and you can buy a small light to compensate in your tents. The light is around 300w.

If going that route with a square tent of 1.2 m² area, I would modify that recommendation slightly and suggest the TSL-2000 instead of the TSW-2000. The "L" model casts a non-square rectangular footprint that, according to it's advertised specifications, should be adequate for a space that is 60 cm x 120 cm. That's exactly half the area of the grow space. With either choice, a second light really should be added - and, hopefully, will be at some point in the future. It will be easier to properly and evenly fill a square area with light by using two lights that have (non-square) rectangular footprints than with two lights with at least one of them having a square footprint (Geometry 101 ;) ).

Other than the difference in the shape of the (light) footprint, both models are comparable - same price, approximately the same wattage, et cetera.
 
Not sure how much my help is worth in this case, but I’ve been looking at the quantum kits too. I realized I wouldn’t be able to swing a whole kit right now so I’m purchasing all the components separately. Smaller purchases will help me get what I need. I figured out what I wanted and broke it down into boards, driver, and heatsink. Won’t get any kind of warranty this way, but I will be able to build the light I’m after.
 
Not sure how much my help is worth in this case, but I’ve been looking at the quantum kits too. I realized I wouldn’t be able to swing a whole kit right now so I’m purchasing all the components separately. Smaller purchases will help me get what I need. I figured out what I wanted and broke it down into boards, driver, and heatsink. Won’t get any kind of warranty this way, but I will be able to build the light I’m after.
i build all my lights this way. if you are in canada you can save about 30% over most kit pricing. i am not sure if there is so much to save south of us.

i get better binning than any of the kits or even prebuilts this way too, 90cri as opposed to the industry standard of 80cri.

i hate 80 as it isn't actually 80, it's everything that tests up to 80, so you kind of get a dogs breakfast if you wind up with an unlucky draw. 90 cri is typically everything that tests above 80 up to 90. top bin is 90 + cri, we mortals rarely see that. that binning is reserved for bulk sales to corporate customers.
 
What's the reason for wanting a very high CRI?
 
What's the reason for wanting a very high CRI?
it's most of what you pay for.

cri determines how accurate your kelvin is. actually it determines to what percent they are not correctly giving you that k.

the binning up to 80 is garden variety. not that 80 itself is bad. it isn't, it's awesome. too bad the industry standard allows for chips well under to be included in that bin tho.

binning determines the actual wholesale / retail value of the chip.
 
cri determines how accurate your kelvin is. actually it determines to what percent they are not correctly giving you that k..

Uh, no CRI (Color Rendering Index) has to do with how accurate the colors of the illuminated object appears to our eyes, in comparison to a reference light source (such as natural sunlight).

It has nothing to do with "how accurate your Kelvin is" (even if you kind of tilt your head and squint until that phrase sort of makes sense ;) ).
 
Thanks for the plug. We offer some Led board kits that will fit your setup. Let us know if you have any questions.

are the prices in EU? do you ship to canada? these are lovely and i'd love to one day have 2 of these for my 8x4 flower tent
Series 2+ Samsung LM301B / LH351H 500 Watt Dimmable LED Grow Light


 
Uh, no CRI (Color Rendering Index) has to do with how accurate the colors of the illuminated object appears to our eyes, in comparison to a reference light source (such as natural sunlight).

yes

It has nothing to do with "how accurate your Kelvin is" (even if you kind of tilt your head and squint until that phrase sort of makes sense ;) ).

prolly where this is going off..


it's a measured value of color rendering, and is a measure of the chip performance.

kelvin definitely is related to color.

i keep editing this simpler ... we ok lol
 
are the prices in EU? do you ship to canada? these are lovely and i'd love to one day have 2 of these for my 8x4 flower tent
Series 2+ Samsung LM301B / LH351H 500 Watt Dimmable LED Grow Light
Thanks for the reply. Our pricing is in USD. We are working on getting the currency conversions in place. We will have two new bigger kits coming out soon! Reasonably priced too!
 
Thanks for the reply. Our pricing is in USD. We are working on getting the currency conversions in place. We will have two new bigger kits coming out soon! Reasonably priced too!

that's good news. think i'll be looking for a new set up in a few months. have a 8x4 and a 5x5 i'd like to get quantum boards into. hoping i can sell off my old leds too lol.

I'll be following you for updates on that. Thanks!
 
prolly where this is going off..


it's a measured value of color rendering, and is a measure of the chip performance.

kelvin definitely is related to color.

As I understand it [DISCLAIMER: I am not a physicist.], and in layman's terms, color temperature has to do with what color the light looks, and color rendering index is a numerical descriptor that gives one an idea of how accurate the colors of the objects (that a light source is illuminating) appear to us.

And one can grow lots of excellent cannabis with a light source that has a CRI of ≥70 - or even far lower, for that matter; one of the top-rated brands of HPS bulbs on the market, EYE Hortilux, only has a CRI of 23 to 26 (250- and 400-watt bulbs on the low end of that range, 1,000-watt at the upper, 600-watt in between).

For museum or art gallery lighting, no, not so much - but for a grow light? You betcha, lol.

And to reinforce my previous post: As far as I know, their Kelvin(s?)... are quite accurate ;). Seems like every time a company used to start selling some cheaper HPS bulb or other, someone would end up doing a bunch of tests for a review of several different brands.
 
As I understand it [DISCLAIMER: I am not a physicist.], and in layman's terms, color temperature has to do with what color the light looks, and color rendering index is a numerical descriptor that gives one an idea of how accurate the colors of the objects (that a light source is illuminating) appear to us.

And one can grow lots of excellent cannabis with a light source that has a CRI of ≥70 - or even far lower, for that matter; one of the top-rated brands of HPS bulbs on the market, EYE Hortilux, only has a CRI of 23 to 26 (250- and 400-watt bulbs on the low end of that range, 1,000-watt at the upper, 600-watt in between).

For museum or art gallery lighting, no, not so much - but for a grow light? You betcha, lol.

And to reinforce my previous post: As far as I know, their Kelvin(s?)... are quite accurate ;). Seems like every time a company used to start selling some cheaper HPS bulb or other, someone would end up doing a bunch of tests for a review of several different brands.



i understand where you are coming from

HPS bulbs are not LED. they operate in a narrow spectrum. most are actually in that 20 - 25% range. the low colour rendering is due to that narrow spectrum. they also work because of that very narrow spectrum.

MH typically produces a much higher CRI than HPS, CMH is even higher. both of those types have a wider spectrum, and whiter appearing light as a result. the higher CRI numbers result from the wider spectrum.

cob and the new gen chips also share that quality. they carry a wider spectrum, and a higher CRI number as a result. a higher CRI doesn't mean the chip is "better", it means that it is producing a wider range. all a higher CRI ensures is that the spectrum the plant wants is present (along with the others).

to be certain, chips with a low or high Kelvin, 3000K and lower, 5500K and higher , will generally have a lower CRI value, as the spectrum they target brings a color. when purchasing the chips i still look for the the highest CRI binning available.

white light is the right light.
 
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