LED wattage vs actual wattage drawn question

Justones

Well-Known Member
I'm curious about something I've seen a few times in people's post. Why do people say for example a 300 watt led light isn't really a 300 watt light because it actually draws less from the outlet plug? They seem to feel like they are getting ripped off by their 300 watt led light not being as bright.

To my understanding the new led light systems are marketed under the old light wattage system as ccomparable". So that its somewhat easier to understand when replacing older style lights with leds. Meaning the 300 watt led light puts off the same amount of light as the comparable other types of bulbs. But because it is an led. It does and will draw less wattage saving you money. While putting out the same amount of light as the non led bulbs.

Maybe I've over looked something here, or maybe some others have. So I thought I'd ask.
 
I'm curious about something I've seen a few times in people's post. Why do people say for example a 300 watt led light isn't really a 300 watt light because it actually draws less from the outlet plug? They seem to feel like they are getting ripped off by their 300 watt led light not being as bright.

To my understanding the new led light systems are marketed under the old light wattage system as ccomparable". So that its somewhat easier to understand when replacing older style lights with leds. Meaning the 300 watt led light puts off the same amount of light as the comparable other types of bulbs. But because it is an led. It does and will draw less wattage saving you money. While putting out the same amount of light as the non led bulbs.

Maybe I've over looked something here, or maybe some others have. So I thought I'd ask.

The reason I have a problem with the "equivalent" system. They tend to inflate their effectiveness.

For example; Most LED's are about 30% more efficient than the HPS/MH types of light. So if you take a LED light that is drawing 100w from the wall, you are effectively getting 130 watts equivalent out. (Give or take some, the math gets complicated.)

So if you need a 1000w equivalent light you truly need a light pulling 700w from the wall. You won't see many 1000w LED arrays draw that much. Some get close, but very few.

But with 200w wall draw, you are not getting a true 1000w equivalency.

This is information only. You can take away from it what you will. This is also just from information I've read, and believe.
 
You can't compare a bulb to an array of diodes/COBs/PCBs, it's apples and oranges.

LED is not just one thing, there's a big difference on the quality and efficiency of the different components on the market, and different ways of deploying them.
You have to know the LEDs, drivers and how the lay out of the light is, ie. 9 COBs in a little box with fan cooling vs. 9 COBs spread out evenly across the grow area passively cooled, same COB's, same driver, same wattage, very different results.
If it's easy to ship, it's harder to cool and won't cover much ;)

It's impossible to grade LED lights by a single number like bulbs, it just can't be done, and as a customer you have to carefully research what you buy if you want to avoid being scammed.

I don't know what you mean when you say ''new LED light systems'', which system?

Different companies use different ways of determining a ''wattage'', some add up the max capacity of each diode, others make up a HID equivalent, and some just write what the actual max draw is.
Niether of these will tell you if the light is any good, you have to know the components, theer's really no way around other than taking somebody's word, and believe you me... many people will tell you to buy crap, they just don't know any better. While all the crappy LED lamps will grow plants, they're not worth the money compared to HID and proper LED.
 
You can't compare a bulb to an array of diodes/COBs/PCBs, it's apples and oranges.

LED is not just one thing, there's a big difference on the quality and efficiency of the different components on the market, and different ways of deploying them.
You have to know the LEDs, drivers and how the lay out of the light is, ie. 9 COBs in a little box with fan cooling vs. 9 COBs spread out evenly across the grow area passively cooled, same COB's, same driver, same wattage, very different results.
If it's easy to ship, it's harder to cool and won't cover much ;)

It's impossible to grade LED lights by a single number like bulbs, it just can't be done, and as a customer you have to carefully research what you buy if you want to avoid being scammed.

I don't know what you mean when you say ''new LED light systems'', which system?

Different companies use different ways of determining a ''wattage'', some add up the max capacity of each diode, others make up a HID equivalent, and some just write what the actual max draw is.
Niether of these will tell you if the light is any good, you have to know the components, theer's really no way around other than taking somebody's word, and believe you me... many people will tell you to buy crap, they just don't know any better. While all the crappy LED lamps will grow plants, they're not worth the money compared to HID and proper LED.

Preach brotha.
:popcorn:
 
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