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Making Your Own Nutrient Concentrates

Skybound

Well-Known Member
Links are easier to digest than screen shots. Generally speaking though, I am a proponent of using silica. I prefer salt because I no longer wish to buy bottled water with flashy labels, but not everyone is as fortunate. That really sucks too because when you're mixing your whole feed from salts, you can keep all of the complexes apart, then with Hydro Buddy combine them in a way that is very specific for your individual situation and have the ability to make needed adjustments as you (the user) see fit. If you can comprehend how much of an advantage using Hydro Buddy gives you over other hydro users using the same product, that's how I see the gap between salts and liquid ferts. When your studies advance, you get to look under the hood of everybody's bonnet, and you come to see that even organic soil blends also use those same salts to "cook" their soil. It's good to know that if I ever decide to grow in soil, I can still use my salts as part of the amendment.
 
I tried a few different things, macros only, then half the micros and nothing produced fast early growth so I just settled out with making just one regimen for all of veg, and dilute it till I have a couple new nodes, then it's full strength 600+ TDS. Here's my newest Veg routine, but I need to hit with PH Down every day which implies less K, so maybe next week I'll drop that to 140ppm and see how that goes.

Veg.JPG


I've noticed that 65 of P would be borderline deficient otherwise, but since I added the NH4+, I noticed all of the red petioles seemed to have vanished and all new growth looks luscious green.
Fantastic mate. I’ll give that a bit of a go. I may have to add a bit more Ca due to the coco but that looks the goods.
 

tokeycones

Well-Known Member
Fair call i'll keep that in mind, there is a big price difference between the two silica products but the power si sais "Unlike other silica products, we work with the best possible silicic acid matrix (patented) to enable superior absorption." anyone know if there is merit behind this i'm happy to pay the extra if it's going to be absorbed alot easier by my plants. I just saw a great comment on that silica post about silicic acid which explains it's a great way to help with calcium uptake which is the beginning part of the biochemical sequence and made a lot of sense.
 
My mistake, I meant 6 days till roots, hehe.

6 days.jpg


Here's the green I am liking from adding a bit of ammonium,

ED and GGs.jpg
luscious green.jpg
Perfect plants my friend. That’s exactly how they should look awesome job. Im finding I may be just skimming a N deficiency having 80ppm N. I might swap some more N03’s for aminos and see how that goes. I’m thinking maybe
85-90ppm N late flower may be the target but I’m undecided yet. I’m running 10ppm NH4 which is about 12% of total N. They really like it from about 6wks flower. Shit hot plants mate!
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
Fair call i'll keep that in mind, there is a big price difference between the two silica products but the power si sais "Unlike other silica products, we work with the best possible silicic acid matrix (patented) to enable superior absorption." anyone know if there is merit behind this i'm happy to pay the extra if it's going to be absorbed alot easier by my plants. I just saw a great comment on that silica post about silicic acid which explains it's a great way to help with calcium uptake which is the beginning part of the biochemical sequence and made a lot of sense.
This is something you'll have to decide for yourself. If you're happy to pay the overage, I say go for it. There's nothing more priceless than peace of mind.

I might swap some more N03’s for aminos and see how that goes.
Verify the form of N that is in aminos can be used in plants as N. I believe AA has NH2 and I'm not certain it's a viable form of N. It might just be the carrier, or a byproduct of the AA or something.
 
This is something you'll have to decide for yourself. If you're happy to pay the overage, I say go for it. There's nothing more priceless than peace of mind.



Verify the form of N that is in aminos can be used in plants as N. I believe AA has NH2 and I'm not certain it's a viable form of N. It might just be the carrier, or a byproduct of the AA or something.
But I’m also thinking it could be Ca. K is at 160ppm with Ca at 100ppm. The little bit of fade out is coming from the top leaves. What do you think?
 

tokeycones

Well-Known Member
So my buddys had some issues i ran his nutrient schedule through and he has being over doing it. the bottles he has are fine for getting perfect npk ratio's and most other micronutrients but there is only 0.5 N04+ is that going to be causing issues and if so what are some options for supplimenting the no4+. week 5 bloom
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
But I’m also thinking it could be Ca. K is at 160ppm with Ca at 100ppm. The little bit of fade out is coming from the top leaves. What do you think?
Does "it" mean an N deficiency? That's what I was talking about when I suggested that you verify the form of N in amino acids.

So my buddys had some issues i ran his nutrient schedule through and he has being over doing it. the bottles he has are fine for getting perfect npk ratio's and most other micronutrients but there is only 0.5 N04+ is that going to be causing issues and if so what are some options for supplimenting the no4+. week 5 bloom
It depends what you consider "issues". Will the plant die from the lack of NH4? no, will it have problems? yes. Find Monoammonium Phosphate or ammonium sulfate.
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
I saw somewhere you or skybound mentioned no higher than 130ppm K if coco coir. Is that the case?
Making Your Own Nutrient Concentrates

That information was passed onto me from the grower that taught me about the ranges of each element. I kept that info with my notes, but because I've never grown in coco, I have no way of verifying it's validity. FWIW, there was also a cap @ 150 for K in regular (non coco) media, yet I found I could go 30ppm higher. That said, take the ranges I shared as a suggested starting point, then you yourself do some experimenting as I have in my grow.
 
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