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absolutely the TS will be better, the old blurple lights can reach around 1.6~1.8umol/j; but the TS can reach 2.0~2.2umol/j. The light efficiency is much better than the older ones. 
Mars Hydro 300W
- Thread starter joebechill
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- #22
joebechill
Well-Known Member
oh nice i gotta look into what umol/j means but is blurple becoming a thing of the past ? .. they look really cool and i’ve never used oneabsolutely the TS will be better, the old blurple lights can reach around 1.6~1.8umol/j; but the TS can reach 2.0~2.2umol/j. The light efficiency is much better than the older ones.
it says the ppfd for
300w eco is 450
ts1000 is 552 µmol/m²s
so i have to look into (PPFD) too . it’s all new to me. thanks for responding though dude i appreciate it mucho .
i notice the ts1000 are about 17 inches... it would be perfect to have two in my 2x4x5 tent. i’m just wondering now if there is a daisy chain. there is a confirmed veg/bloom switch. that rocks lol.
just throwing info out as i find it
Mars Hydro
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Hi Joe, the TS1000 cannot be daisy chained, at least for now. And there is no veg, and bloom switches, but it can be dimmable, you can adjust the wattage from the power supply with your screw driver easily. During veg, you use less wattage, and during flowering , full wattage on.oh nice i gotta look into what umol/j means but is blurple becoming a thing of the past ? .. they look really cool and i’ve never used one
it says the ppfd for
300w eco is 450
ts1000 is 552 µmol/m²s
so i have to look into (PPFD) too . it’s all new to me. thanks for responding though dude i appreciate it mucho .
i notice the ts1000 are about 17 inches... it would be perfect to have two in my 2x4x5 tent. i’m just wondering now if there is a daisy chain. there is a confirmed veg/bloom switch. that rocks lol.
just throwing info out as i find it
- Thread starter
- #24
joebechill
Well-Known Member
hmm i’m sure that’s fine. the no daisy chain thing. that doesn’t matter too much right? like personally you don’t mind? lmao and that is weird the info under “grow tips” on their website say to turn veg switch on for veg and both veg/bloom switches for flower. i also noticed under description it says max gram per watt is 2.5w but directly under the photo of it it says 2.0w per gram.Hi Joe, the TS1000 cannot be daisy chained, at least for now. And there is no veg, and bloom switches, but it can be dimmable, you can adjust the wattage from the power supply with your screw driver easily. During veg, you use less wattage, and during flowering , full wattage on.
i think they should fix that just so no one gets confused (it’s not that big of a deal)... anyways i might just order two of them . i definitely am feeling the vibes of the ts1000 over the 300eco
that is interesting that you can lower the watts using a screwdriver? i’m loving the info but man do i feel STOOPID
everyday i learn so much
i would smoke a fat joint with you right now if i could YOU HAVE HELPED SO MUCH. thanks for the reply’s and being patient with me the noob grower! haha
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I think the "Tips" section is advice for using their lighting products in general (and many of the products in their current lineup do have the two switches). I could be mistaken in that belief, I suppose.
Perhaps they will edit that page to state "...if your panel has a separate vegetative-growth and bloom mode switches." These lights - both the TS-1000 that was just released and the SP series - are still pretty new.
No need to feel stupid, and no reason for it. (I think the proper term to describe one who lacks knowledge is ignorant - and that is correctable.) It's just something new to you, and it just so happens that it's relatively new to the company, too. That happens from time to time when a company releases new products instead of stagnating. The power supply ("driver") for the TS-1000 (and SP-250) can be adjusted for output. This is not all that uncommon for lights of this sort.
You might even be able to get longer cables (or some wire?) and move the power supply out of the grow space, if heat becomes an issue in Summer. I am not sure of this, although the SP-250 can be so modified.
Personally, I'd rather have a dimming (power adjustment) feature than a couple of switches - because it allows you to reduce the output without changing the spectrum. People who've been assembling their own LED lighting have been able to do this for a while now, depending on the choice of power supply (not all of them are adjustable, but many are).
If the above is confusing, it need not be. Think of it as being indicative of getting more photon output (light) per watt of energy consumed. Newer - and better - technology is often more efficient. I am assuming that the "max yield per watt" specification is a prediction / best guess that reflects the increased efficiency. In reality, your specific yields will be influenced by other factors than your choice of lighting, and those factors include things like strain choice. Therefore, I'd use those numbers to compare relative efficiencies of the company's products (how they rank against each other) and not necessarily be disappointed if YOUR harvest yield averages somewhat less.
Two of the TS-1000 might be fine in the space that you mentioned (2'x4'), especially if you will be growing autoflowering plants and can run your lights 18 (or more) hours per day during the flowering cycle. If you're growing photoperiodic strains, three might be even better, although that's just a guess; you'd have even less shadowed areas in your canopy, they would be independently adjustable in terms of height (which might come in handy), and you'd be able to adjust their output down if, in your judgment, they were "a little much" (or if you use the same space/lighting for both flowering and the vegetative-growth phase, or do one grow with photoperiodic strains and the next with autoflowering ones and wish to keep your lighting basically the same but decrease its output to compensate for the fact that you'll be running it 50% longer per day during the flowering phase than you would with the photoperiodic ones).
You might never use the dimming feature, but it seems like a nice thing to have "just in case."
Perhaps they will edit that page to state "...if your panel has a separate vegetative-growth and bloom mode switches." These lights - both the TS-1000 that was just released and the SP series - are still pretty new.
No need to feel stupid, and no reason for it. (I think the proper term to describe one who lacks knowledge is ignorant
- and that is correctable.) It's just something new to you, and it just so happens that it's relatively new to the company, too. That happens from time to time when a company releases new products instead of stagnating. The power supply ("driver") for the TS-1000 (and SP-250) can be adjusted for output. This is not all that uncommon for lights of this sort. You might even be able to get longer cables (or some wire?) and move the power supply out of the grow space, if heat becomes an issue in Summer. I am not sure of this, although the SP-250 can be so modified.
Personally, I'd rather have a dimming (power adjustment) feature than a couple of switches - because it allows you to reduce the output without changing the spectrum. People who've been assembling their own LED lighting have been able to do this for a while now, depending on the choice of power supply (not all of them are adjustable, but many are).
absolutely the TS will be better, the old blurple lights can reach around 1.6~1.8umol/j; but the TS can reach 2.0~2.2umol/j. The light efficiency is much better than the older ones.
If the above is confusing, it need not be. Think of it as being indicative of getting more photon output (light) per watt of energy consumed. Newer - and better - technology is often more efficient. I am assuming that the "max yield per watt" specification is a prediction / best guess that reflects the increased efficiency. In reality, your specific yields will be influenced by other factors than your choice of lighting, and those factors include things like strain choice. Therefore, I'd use those numbers to compare relative efficiencies of the company's products (how they rank against each other) and not necessarily be disappointed if YOUR harvest yield averages somewhat less.
Two of the TS-1000 might be fine in the space that you mentioned (2'x4'), especially if you will be growing autoflowering plants and can run your lights 18 (or more) hours per day during the flowering cycle. If you're growing photoperiodic strains, three might be even better, although that's just a guess; you'd have even less shadowed areas in your canopy, they would be independently adjustable in terms of height (which might come in handy), and you'd be able to adjust their output down if, in your judgment, they were "a little much" (or if you use the same space/lighting for both flowering and the vegetative-growth phase, or do one grow with photoperiodic strains and the next with autoflowering ones and wish to keep your lighting basically the same but decrease its output to compensate for the fact that you'll be running it 50% longer per day during the flowering phase than you would with the photoperiodic ones).
You might never use the dimming feature, but it seems like a nice thing to have "just in case."
- Thread starter
- #26
joebechill
Well-Known Member
that makes so much sense when you say you’d rather have a dimmable full spectrum than actually turning off lights with the veg bloom buttons. and idk i have only grown photo plants and it seems to be more fun. knowing i can flip them into flower whenever i want.I think the "Tips" section is advice for using their lighting products in general (and many of the products in their current lineup do have the two switches). I could be mistaken in that belief, I suppose.
Perhaps they will edit that page to state "...if your panel has a separate vegetative-growth and bloom mode switches." These lights - both the TS-1000 that was just released and the SP series - are still pretty new.
No need to feel stupid, and no reason for it. (I think the proper term to describe one who lacks knowledge is ignorant
You might even be able to get longer cables (or some wire?) and move the power supply out of the grow space, if heat becomes an issue in Summer. I am not sure of this, although the SP-250 can be so modified.
Personally, I'd rather have a dimming (power adjustment) feature than a couple of switches - because it allows you to reduce the output without changing the spectrum. People who've been assembling their own LED lighting have been able to do this for a while now, depending on the choice of power supply (not all of them are adjustable, but many are).
If the above is confusing, it need not be. Think of it as being indicative of getting more photon output (light) per watt of energy consumed. Newer - and better - technology is often more efficient. I am assuming that the "max yield per watt" specification is a prediction / best guess that reflects the increased efficiency. In reality, your specific yields will be influenced by other factors than your choice of lighting, and those factors include things like strain choice. Therefore, I'd use those numbers to compare relative efficiencies of the company's products (how they rank against each other) and not necessarily be disappointed if YOUR harvest yield averages somewhat less.
Two of the TS-1000 might be fine in the space that you mentioned (2'x4'), especially if you will be growing autoflowering plants and can run your lights 18 (or more) hours per day during the flowering cycle. If you're growing photoperiodic strains, three might be even better, although that's just a guess; you'd have even less shadowed areas in your canopy, they would be independently adjustable in terms of height (which might come in handy), and you'd be able to adjust their output down if, in your judgment, they were "a little much" (or if you use the same space/lighting for both flowering and the vegetative-growth phase, or do one grow with photoperiodic strains and the next with autoflowering ones and wish to keep your lighting basically the same but decrease its output to compensate for the fact that you'll be running it 50% longer per day during the flowering phase than you would with the photoperiodic ones).
You might never use the dimming feature, but it seems like a nice thing to have "just in case."
i don’t know it’s all a learning curve anyways. i know one day i will get autoflower. this is a lot to take in but i think i know what my next purchase will be lol. i’m going to run two ts1000s my next grow. my threee plants right now have about a month to go. then i’ll use some real grow lights for once it’s exciting to think about even being a month from now. not too bad though since there will be more knowledge and videos of the light then
If you do end up buying from a forum sponsor, be sure to ask for the current discount code so you can save a few currency units.
- Thread starter
- #28
joebechill
Well-Known Member
should i ask someone about this? i saw smokesara in this feed had a discount code for 3% off but i don’t think that code is still valid. @SmokeSara
Mars Hydro
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Hi Joe, you can use the "smokesara" always to check out on our website and save 3%; It is the coupon code for the 420magazines menbers.
