MauveFarmers: Tips N Tricks!

yea but look at his pix, that soil is not normal.... looks dry to.. you can really tell by the picture next to the yellow plants, that plant has some good soil it looks like. But i really do think it might be salt build up and its locking out the nutes.

Right. The "soil" media the plant is in most likely has the needed nutrients there, just in an inaccessible form caused by a pH issue or competing sodium salts.
 
gman27: i think me and munki have the solution to your problem! check out what we came up with in the above posts. it could be salt build up or a PH issue or a combo of both (if the PH isn't correct the plant won't uptake nutrients the properly, leaving the nutrient to build up and causing toxic salts). give them a good flush then add a light full nutrient solution. besure NOT to use soft water! soft water contains alot of salts.
 
The plants are small so you should be able to pick up some distilled or RO water and use that for the flush. pH will be just about 7 with that. It is what is called "dead" water as all the dissolved solids are removed. It will act as a sponge of sorts and want to dissolve ionic salts in your media. Careful about doing this too much as it will eventually leach out some of the nutes from the soil as well.
 
I was out of town for awhile for the last few days so sorry for the delayed response. First- I use water from a water purifier we have here at the house. Secondly I used miracle grow moisture control. Lastly, they have gotten a lot worse in the last few days-- i'll post pics tomorrow-- i went and bought some Vigoro all purpose plant food. It has 24% total nitrogen. Should i Use it? Where can i get a ph tester and test strips? I really appreciate everyones help, thanks a lot!!!!!!
 
ok, heres the link. I couldn't wait till tomorrow, they're getting pretty bad.

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https://www.420magazine.com/gallery/data/500/rsz_1009-05.jpg
 

i dont want to be the person to give you bad news but i dont think they're going to come back to life... did you try are solution me a munki came up with??? (see above posts)

Mircale grow sux too the NPK levels are not suited for cannabis, the mositer control will hold way to much water and you could over water really easy watch out! and don't use nutrients from home depot go to a hydro shop and pick up some good soil and nutrients. like "roots organic soil and advanced nutrients for fert.) advanced nutrients has a really good product thats basically fool proof you can go on there web site and they have a nutrient calutator!!

Advanced Nutrients - Raising The Reputations Of Top Growers OR https://www.advancednutrientsonline.com/index.php

Go to mauvefarmers tips and tricks for a good soil mix!!

MauveFarmers: Tips N Tricks!

and for the PH tester head to a hydro shop!!

-Mauve
 
I challenge any new grower to UNDER do any aspect of their first grow (except lighting). Premature plant death is nearly always caused by too much of something whether it be water, nutrients, etc. Best to go towards the neglectful path, complete a grow with a low yield, and improve your skills from there so you will have at least seen what all stages of growth look like.

Remember, there is a reason people call it WEED. :ganjamon:
 
finally place your soil into the bucket! the PVC pipes will come out from the soil so air can pass through them.

This menthod will insure maximum oxygen to the root zone, and it will keep a newbie from over watering! Air pass through the PVC pipes giving constent air flow from the top and bottom of your medium. as we all know cannabis loves water and oxygen, keep them happy with this bucket setup!!

I'm curious to learn just what it is that is supposed to cause oxygen to travel downwards into those pipes? I don't see any kind of air pump discussed.

I'd think that you wouldn't get much in the way of extra O2 by this method unless it's drawn in by the natural action of the "soil" after you water it and the water flows downward through it. And if that's the case, I don't see where it would really be going through the pipes as there's more "siphon action" through the "soil" itself.

Not criticizing - I assume it works to your satisfaction - but rather I'm trying to understand it a little better in light of the physical properties of the hardware, the O2, the "soil," watering, etc. I've been up all night again and I've possibly missed something here lol.

BTW, I noticed that in your third post in this thread that you mention Budswell, B-52, and Budcandy. Would you mind posting a breakdown of what (exactly) is in those products?

Thanks!
 
MauveFarmer,

Nice thread. Two questions I have are, what is the diameter of pvc that you are using and what size are those pots?

g

the pipes are 3/4 (home depot), and the pot size are 2 gal square buckets; found at your local hydro shop.

-mauve
 
I'm curious to learn just what it is that is supposed to cause oxygen to travel downwards into those pipes? I don't see any kind of air pump discussed.

I'd think that you wouldn't get much in the way of extra O2 by this method unless it's drawn in by the natural action of the "soil" after you water it and the water flows downward through it. And if that's the case, I don't see where it would really be going through the pipes as there's more "siphon action" through the "soil" itself.

Not criticizing - I assume it works to your satisfaction - but rather I'm trying to understand it a little better in light of the physical properties of the hardware, the O2, the "soil," watering, etc. I've been up all night again and I've possibly missed something here lol.

BTW, I noticed that in your third post in this thread that you mention Budswell, B-52, and Budcandy. Would you mind posting a breakdown of what (exactly) is in those products?

Thanks!


think of it it this, if you have a bucket with out the pipes and you filled it with medium, the top of the medium is the only place where oyxgen can enter. when you have the PVC piping and the hydro coral the oxyen can now enter from the top and bottom by the force from the atmostshere. not only that but when the plant is in its 4th 5th and 6th week the plants roots grow through the felt and enter the hydro coral giving the plant maximum oxygen. the medium would normally pack down quit a bit from watering, hendering the oxgen supply. it's almost like soil and hydro in one! if you keep your humdity at a rocking 40 to 45% (like you should) this aslo makes this buckets kick ass!:bong:

check out "organic gardening soma style" : book by: soma
he makes a larger version of this buckets but he calls them beds you might be able to google it!

-Mauve
 
last question: where can i buy hydro coral at or can I just use some small pebbles?

g

Hydro coral can be found at your local hydro shop aslo.
the felt can be found at a craft store like joanns or michels
and the plastic chicken wire at homedepot.

-Mauve
 
think of it it this, if you have a bucket with out the pipes and you filled it with medium, the top of the medium is the only place where oyxgen can enter. when you have the PVC piping and the hydro coral the oxyen can now enter from the top and bottom by the force from the atmostshere.

Yeah... That works just fine - IF the area within the pot is a vacuum or at least a lower pressure area than the atmosphere at large. But since both the pot and the atmosphere are nominally at the same pressure, your statement doesn't really help me understand how this could possibly help.

I've done a lot of work with automotive engines, both normal and forced induction (turbocharged & supercharged) and it would seem that there are only two ways for oxygen to enter (on an ongoing basis) and that is to force it in (IOW, pump it) or for the "device" in question to draw it in.

Forcing it in should be obvious. For example, air pumps & "stones" in a hydroponic reservoir. Drawing it in... Take a plant (any plant) that is either in a pot full of "soil" or in the ground and top-water it. The water will fill the spaces between the solid growing media. Then, as gravity and wicking action causes the water to travel downwards (and also outwards to a degree in the ground depending on soil conditions/drainage), "air" is drawn into the spaces formerly occupied by the water.

Sinking a pipe into the bottom of a container... I still do not understand how this is going to add any oxygen to the pot unless you completely cover the rest of the top of the pot and water through the pipe. At that point both the water you add and the air that is drawn in afterwards through the siphon action I mentioned above are ONLY going to be valid from the lower exit point of the pipe and below.

It just doesn't seem to agree with the basic laws of physics.

Upon further consideration, I agree that there would be some air drawn through the pipe - but only a VERY limited amount and what little that is drawn through there would be a detriment to the root system as a whole as it bypasses 95% of it instead of being drawn down across the entire system.

Still trying to understand...

EDIT: It would seem to me that the only practical way to add supplemental oxygen(sic) to the root system in a "soil"-type environment is to bury an airstone in the pot and run the pump that it is attached to except for whenever you water the plant (and a short time afterwards, when such a device would not only be unnecessary but contraindicated).
 
Yeah... That works just fine - IF the area within the pot is a vacuum or at least a lower pressure area than the atmosphere at large. But since both the pot and the atmosphere are nominally at the same pressure, your statement doesn't really help me understand how this could possibly help.

I've done a lot of work with automotive engines, both normal and forced induction (turbocharged & supercharged) and it would seem that there are only two ways for oxygen to enter (on an ongoing basis) and that is to force it in (IOW, pump it) or for the "device" in question to draw it in.

Forcing it in should be obvious. For example, air pumps & "stones" in a hydroponic reservoir. Drawing it in... Take a plant (any plant) that is either in a pot full of "soil" or in the ground and top-water it. The water will fill the spaces between the solid growing media. Then, as gravity and wicking action causes the water to travel downwards (and also outwards to a degree in the ground depending on soil conditions/drainage), "air" is drawn into the spaces formerly occupied by the water.

Sinking a pipe into the bottom of a container... I still do not understand how this is going to add any oxygen to the pot unless you completely cover the rest of the top of the pot and water through the pipe. At that point both the water you add and the air that is drawn in afterwards through the siphon action I mentioned above are ONLY going to be valid from the lower exit point of the pipe and below.

It just doesn't seem to agree with the basic laws of physics.

Upon further consideration, I agree that there would be some air drawn through the pipe - but only a VERY limited amount and what little that is drawn through there would be a detriment to the root system as a whole as it bypasses 95% of it instead of being drawn down across the entire system.

Still trying to understand...

EDIT: It would seem to me that the only practical way to add supplemental oxygen(sic) to the root system in a "soil"-type environment is to bury an airstone in the pot and run the pump that it is attached to except for whenever you water the plant (and a short time afterwards, when such a device would not only be unnecessary but contraindicated).

When the roots grow into the hydro coral the medium become less dense. giving the roots more air to breath, just like hydro. the pipes are for extra air flow to the root system. for example if you placed in the hydro coral with out the pipes sure you you get oxygen but not as much as you would with the pipes, the pipes keep the air fresh. it's like snokling, the larger your tube is the easier it will be for you to breath. these buckets stops oxygen restrictions not to force air into the soil.
oxgen is everywhere, and if it has an opening its going to fill that spot. if the pipes aren't there the air flow to the bottom is restricted, it can pass through the soil like you said but thats still restricting the air flow. these buckets are all about having less restrictions. less restrictions means heavier harvest.
 
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