Mini photography tutorial

heya,, i wrote this for my journal,, it is not the ultimate tutorial,, but might help some undestand a few things,, please correct if necessary


mr mr,, a post on your photography question

MrMysfyt

Re: Nivek's Need to Know Nature - First Grow Journal - 2015
Hey nivek, do you use photo-bracketing/HDR to get those colours on your close-up bud shots?... very impressive and beautiful shots, however you do it.

first off,, thanks for your kind words,, appreciated

as i have posted,, i have some photography in my background,, or was it i had some backgrounds for my photography,, aargh,, i forget now,,, both probably,, yes,, both,,

and because of that background i know my way around a camera pretty well. that for starters

electronic cameras are like smart phones,, they have more powers than most folks know what to do with. most folks only use 1 to 10 percent of what their cameras can actually do. i am making those numbers up but maybe you know what i mean. for instance,, the manual for my camera is a small book,, and a boring one too

that said,, all that electronic stuff just gets in the way anyway,, not really necessary for taking good pics,, and absolutely 'unnecessary' for taking good close ups.

this point for sweetsue as well,,

she also mentioned about the colours in my photos,, as did you,,, the colours i achieve are not completely my decision, must admit,, the last step i take when editing my photos that i will upload here is 'AUTO CORRECT' ha. sometimes i keep the auto settings,, sometimes not,, and even more rarer will i go in and manually correct the image. the 'actual' 'factual' colour is not really important,, right,, just the vividness and saturation,, both important.

the light source the subject is under determines the colours, to a large extent,, just like there are two coloured bulbs,, one for veg, one for flower,, if a pic was taken of the same subject under both different lights,, the colours would be different in the picture,,, so

the camera has a setting for which colour the light source is. setting number one,, select the correct light source setting,, my settings have a sunny setting (veg room) and a indoor setting (flower room).

one needs,, if one wants up close and personal photos,, to go back to basics. el manuel. all manual.

manual settings and manual focus

ok,, there are really only two more settings that matter. shutter speed and aperture

shutter speed is easy.

set it to 1/60th and leave it. end of story. brief info on that, so actually not end of story,, 1/60th is the lowest setting one can use,, hand held, and not get shake and blur from the shake. and for these pics,, no reason to be faster,, unless you want to take pics throwing the plants across the room,, then faster speeds is better to 'catch' the action

next and by far the most useful and maybe important setting is the aperture. this determines 'depth of field',,what is in focus and what is not. range from 2.8 or so to 16 or so

a low number gives 'less' depth of field, meaning less in focus,, a high number, more depth of field

even in my brightest area in my lab, with my camera set at 1/60th, i still have to use a low depth of field,, f3.5 to 6 or so

what that means is one needs to be very accurate with their manual focus. the camera has a macro mode. meaning for closeups, , manual focus, and manual settings. man, that's a lotto manuals

I don't. photo bracket,, i get in there, up close, for sometimes lengthy times, many seconds, focusing, with the shutter button half way pressed I can see what my settings are doing,, i get it just right, in my eyes, real up close, and i take a breath, and pop the trigger. then I preview the shot,, greatest thing about digital cameras imo btw, and take another shot, till i get it right,, and yes, sometimes I adjust the settinge, so i guess that is bracketing, a bit

so take a bunch of shots, and select the best on the computer,, a bit of cropping,, then 'AUTO CORRECT', and into the journal it goes,, simple eh,, ha

cheers for now,, i will read and. maybe edit this now

one other setting barely worth mentioning, not barely, is important to get the 'best' from your camera is ASA. this is a seriously silly setting that has no reason to even be on a digital camera. it basically is a setting to 'dumb down' a camera. for the best image, this setting needs to be at its lowest,, probably 100
 
Photography is not my thing actually. I can't take a good photo regardless of the quality of the camera. I have tried to read some tutorial once or twice. But, no progress, I need some practical tutorial. But to be honest, I gave up already. I admitted that photography is not my thing. I meant to be something more greater.
 
heya,, i wrote this for my journal,, it is not the ultimate tutorial,, but might help some undestand a few things,, please correct if necessary


mr mr,, a post on your photography question

MrMysfyt

Re: Nivek's Need to Know Nature - First Grow Journal - 2015
Hey nivek, do you use photo-bracketing/HDR to get those colours on your close-up bud shots?... very impressive and beautiful shots, however you do it.

first off,, thanks for your kind words,, appreciated

as i have posted,, i have some photography in my background,, or was it i had some backgrounds for my photography,, aargh,, i forget now,,, both probably,, yes,, both,,

and because of that background i know my way around a camera pretty well. that for starters

electronic cameras are like smart phones,, they have more powers than most folks know what to do with. most folks only use 1 to 10 percent of what their cameras can actually do. i am making those numbers up but maybe you know what i mean. for instance,, the manual for my camera is a small book,, and a boring one too

that said,, all that electronic stuff just gets in the way anyway,, not really necessary for taking good pics,, and absolutely 'unnecessary' for taking good close ups.

this point for sweetsue as well,,

she also mentioned about the colours in my photos,, as did you,,, the colours i achieve are not completely my decision, must admit,, the last step i take when editing my photos that i will upload here is 'AUTO CORRECT' ha. sometimes i keep the auto settings,, sometimes not,, and even more rarer will i go in and manually correct the image. the 'actual' 'factual' colour is not really important,, right,, just the vividness and saturation,, both important.

the light source the subject is under determines the colours, to a large extent,, just like there are two coloured bulbs,, one for veg, one for flower,, if a pic was taken of the same subject under both different lights,, the colours would be different in the picture,,, so

the camera has a setting for which colour the light source is. setting number one,, select the correct light source setting,, my settings have a sunny setting (veg room) and a indoor setting (flower room).

one needs,, if one wants up close and personal photos,, to go back to basics. el manuel. all manual.

manual settings and manual focus

ok,, there are really only two more settings that matter. shutter speed and aperture

shutter speed is easy.

set it to 1/60th and leave it. end of story. brief info on that, so actually not end of story,, 1/60th is the lowest setting one can use,, hand held, and not get shake and blur from the shake. and for these pics,, no reason to be faster,, unless you want to take pics throwing the plants across the room,, then faster speeds is better to 'catch' the action

next and by far the most useful and maybe important setting is the aperture. this determines 'depth of field',,what is in focus and what is not. range from 2.8 or so to 16 or so

a low number gives 'less' depth of field, meaning less in focus,, a high number, more depth of field

even in my brightest area in my lab, with my camera set at 1/60th, i still have to use a low depth of field,, f3.5 to 6 or so

what that means is one needs to be very accurate with their manual focus. the camera has a macro mode. meaning for closeups, , manual focus, and manual settings. man, that's a lotto manuals

I don't. photo bracket,, i get in there, up close, for sometimes lengthy times, many seconds, focusing, with the shutter button half way pressed I can see what my settings are doing,, i get it just right, in my eyes, real up close, and i take a breath, and pop the trigger. then I preview the shot,, greatest thing about digital cameras imo btw, and take another shot, till i get it right,, and yes, sometimes I adjust the settinge, so i guess that is bracketing, a bit

so take a bunch of shots, and select the best on the computer,, a bit of cropping,, then 'AUTO CORRECT', and into the journal it goes,, simple eh,, ha

cheers for now,, i will read and. maybe edit this now

one other setting barely worth mentioning, not barely, is important to get the 'best' from your camera is ASA. this is a seriously silly setting that has no reason to even be on a digital camera. it basically is a setting to 'dumb down' a camera. for the best image, this setting needs to be at its lowest,, probably 100
Quite right; we can't hand hold a sharp shot slower than (1/60). So the answer is of course, to use a tripod. Smaller apertures like f11or f16 can give you a nicer depth of field and gather in a beautiful quality of light and colour if given the time. A tripod also allows you to use a lower ISO setting as well. You can now (with the Tripod) put your camera into full manual mode and manipulate aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to whatever pleases your eye!
 
heya,, i wrote this for my journal,, it is not the ultimate tutorial,, but might help some undestand a few things,, please correct if necessary


mr mr,, a post on your photography question

MrMysfyt

Re: Nivek's Need to Know Nature - First Grow Journal - 2015
Hey nivek, do you use photo-bracketing/HDR to get those colours on your close-up bud shots?... very impressive and beautiful shots, however you do it.

first off,, thanks for your kind words,, appreciated

as i have posted,, i have some photography in my background,, or was it i had some backgrounds for my photography,, aargh,, i forget now,,, both probably,, yes,, both,,

and because of that background i know my way around a camera pretty well. that for starters

electronic cameras are like smart phones,, they have more powers than most folks know what to do with. most folks only use 1 to 10 percent of what their cameras can actually do. i am making those numbers up but maybe you know what i mean. for instance,, the manual for my camera is a small book,, and a boring one too

that said,, all that electronic stuff just gets in the way anyway,, not really necessary for taking good pics,, and absolutely 'unnecessary' for taking good close ups.

this point for sweetsue as well,,

she also mentioned about the colours in my photos,, as did you,,, the colours i achieve are not completely my decision, must admit,, the last step i take when editing my photos that i will upload here is 'AUTO CORRECT' ha. sometimes i keep the auto settings,, sometimes not,, and even more rarer will i go in and manually correct the image. the 'actual' 'factual' colour is not really important,, right,, just the vividness and saturation,, both important.

the light source the subject is under determines the colours, to a large extent,, just like there are two coloured bulbs,, one for veg, one for flower,, if a pic was taken of the same subject under both different lights,, the colours would be different in the picture,,, so

the camera has a setting for which colour the light source is. setting number one,, select the correct light source setting,, my settings have a sunny setting (veg room) and a indoor setting (flower room).

one needs,, if one wants up close and personal photos,, to go back to basics. el manuel. all manual.

manual settings and manual focus

ok,, there are really only two more settings that matter. shutter speed and aperture

shutter speed is easy.

set it to 1/60th and leave it. end of story. brief info on that, so actually not end of story,, 1/60th is the lowest setting one can use,, hand held, and not get shake and blur from the shake. and for these pics,, no reason to be faster,, unless you want to take pics throwing the plants across the room,, then faster speeds is better to 'catch' the action

next and by far the most useful and maybe important setting is the aperture. this determines 'depth of field',,what is in focus and what is not. range from 2.8 or so to 16 or so

a low number gives 'less' depth of field, meaning less in focus,, a high number, more depth of field

even in my brightest area in my lab, with my camera set at 1/60th, i still have to use a low depth of field,, f3.5 to 6 or so

what that means is one needs to be very accurate with their manual focus. the camera has a macro mode. meaning for closeups, , manual focus, and manual settings. man, that's a lotto manuals

I don't. photo bracket,, i get in there, up close, for sometimes lengthy times, many seconds, focusing, with the shutter button half way pressed I can see what my settings are doing,, i get it just right, in my eyes, real up close, and i take a breath, and pop the trigger. then I preview the shot,, greatest thing about digital cameras imo btw, and take another shot, till i get it right,, and yes, sometimes I adjust the settinge, so i guess that is bracketing, a bit

so take a bunch of shots, and select the best on the computer,, a bit of cropping,, then 'AUTO CORRECT', and into the journal it goes,, simple eh,, ha

cheers for now,, i will read and. maybe edit this now

one other setting barely worth mentioning, not barely, is important to get the 'best' from your camera is ASA. this is a seriously silly setting that has no reason to even be on a digital camera. it basically is a setting to 'dumb down' a camera. for the best image, this setting needs to be at its lowest,, probably 100
Wow, this is way old, yet.... so helpful. Going to have to see what my camera can actually do. Thanks @nivek
 
Hiya, I've been fiddling with cameras for yonks - here's a contribution to the conversation, not a contention

1/60 is too slow for most people to be steady without resting on a wall or something, esp with a lens anything 50mm+ ie close-ups [and possibly medicated lol], that's why many camera's default is 35mm 1/125
I set ISO to auto and shutter speed to 1/250, then tweak the Aperture or flash compensation [-0.7/-2.0] for depth of field until it's about balanced

My lecturer at college was an old skool wrinkly who insisted that you can take a perfect picture with correct adjustments and post op should not be necessary, and proved it with a pinhole Brownie

That's what I aim for, maybe I'll get it right one day
 
My biggest problem is getting good close up pics that show all the Trichomes. I just haven't figured out how to get these pics to come out. Here are some samples I copied from the Annual contests as an example of the type of pics I'm having trouble taking. Any advice is appreciated. My camera isn't top of the line. It's a Fujifilm FinePix S9800. Says 50X Full HD on the side & Super EBC Fujinon Lens 50X Zoom f=4.3-215 1:2.9-6.5 on the lens if that means anything to you.
All Greek to me.
589E3187-995E-4AC6-8A67-423D521DFB9F.jpeg
20220312_165038.jpg
20220507_193646.jpg
20220821_131854.jpg
Fruity Pebble Cookies.jpeg
IMG_1026.JPG
melonfizz3.png
uOit9ybD-104824377.jpeg
 
Not sure whether that lens can be set to aperture to F5.6-F8 for the extra depth of field
Wide aperture/shallow depth of field bud shots I tend to manually fix focus, then move slightly to put the silhouette in perfect focus for the shot
Thanks. I'll take a look at the manual on line & see if I can change settings. The camera does a ton of stuff I don't know how to do..... so just maybe I can change settings.
 
wow,, 50x zoom,, and it means just that i read,, 24 - 1200 ml,, super wide range for a zoom

is this the camera that all those pics were taken with?

up close and personal with the subject puts the onus completely on the lens itself,,not so much the camera.

i have a panasonic with a big zoom too,, not as big as yours,, but pretty big still,, and the lens itself simply is not a fine enuf quality to get those razor sharp images you wish for.

your pics are pretty good actually,, but i know razor sharp,, and those pics are close, but not quite there,, like mine are not. but i have had cameras, oops, sorry,, i have had lenses that were razor sharp,, and indeed a joy to use

my mantra in darn near everything,, do the best one can with what one has,, and you done fine i might suggest
 
wow,, 50x zoom,, and it means just that i read,, 24 - 1200 ml,, super wide range for a zoom

is this the camera that all those pics were taken with?

up close and personal with the subject puts the onus completely on the lens itself,,not so much the camera.

i have a panasonic with a big zoom too,, not as big as yours,, but pretty big still,, and the lens itself simply is not a fine enuf quality to get those razor sharp images you wish for.

your pics are pretty good actually,, but i know razor sharp,, and those pics are close, but not quite there,, like mine are not. but i have had cameras, oops, sorry,, i have had lenses that were razor sharp,, and indeed a joy to use

my mantra in darn near everything,, do the best one can with what one has,, and you done fine i might suggest
The pics above are other peoples plants from the contest pages. I was just showing the type of pic I'm having trouble taking. Hard to enter the NUG Contest without good pics like those. Can't Compete !
 
i must admit to being quite out of the loop these days,, photog wise,, one thing i might suggest, if you are going to attempt to surprise yourself with your abilities,, is to get a camera with interchangable lenses,, and get a cpl or three quality lenses, determined by researching the lenses you are looking at purchasing

canon is a good name and make quality equipment. but some of the lenses that fit that camera can be aftermarket products,, or not original equipment

just be aware,, and be aware also,, quality lenses need not be real expensive either,, super duper quality or very large lenses can be pricey,, but not necessary for quality pics

one last suggestion i spose,, learn the functions of a good photo editor,, a must these days

karma sent friend,, get inspired
 
I've been contemplating buying a Canon EOS for a while now. I just might bite the bullet & buy one. Any certain Model or lenses you would recommend getting at the same time ?
I used a Canon EOS [60D i think] for quite a while and very happy with it - no post op
I mostly used the 28-55mm Canon lens and a Sigma 70-200mm
 
... can't take a good photo regardless of the quality of the camera.
Yes, an old response but I am still interested in responding. It is not the quality of the camera but what the person can do with what he or she has. As @Roy Growin mentions quality can be done with a "pinhole" camera. I read an article about a photographer that is winning art shows and awards using a cell phone camera. He did have experience but he is proving that the camera is not all that there is to it.

Getting good photos is both an art and a science.

1/60 is too slow for most people to be steady without resting on a wall or something, esp with a lens anything 50mm+ ie close-ups [and possibly medicated lol], that's why many camera's default is 35mm 1/125
I have seen some point and shoot cameras over here that default to 1/60th out of the box. Did not matter whether a film or digital P&S. None the less, 1/60th is getting tricky the older I get no matter what.
 
Problem with getting really close is that you inevitably block the light on the subject unless you have a ring flash
A 70mm lens allows you to be 6-12" away which allows for a 1/3 power diffused/soft flash

Re above - the zoom stated at 50x is misleading, it's more likely 5x optical zoom plus 10x digital zoom which in my experience is generally not very good

Another option is to shoot large HD format then crop to select the best part of the image
 
I just snapped this macro as a quick example. It's a 10 year old Cannon digital. Not super fancy or expensive then. Used auto focus and auto exposure. Macro mode. No flash. No tripod. No zoom. Tent light on. Camera about 1/2 inch away from the bud.


macro1 - Copy.png


Not the best result, but pretty good for not trying too hard. Almost time to harvest. Found my lost eyelash!
 
Re above - the zoom stated at 50x is misleading, it's more likely 5x optical zoom plus 10x digital zoom which in my experience is generally not very good

ya,, well, 50x it says,, and as i posted, 24 - 1200 ml,, my 12x optical zoom is 35 - 420 ml,,

but, digital zoom,, you are correct,, that does not count,, digital zoom can be done anytime on the computer
 
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