Molasses After Flush?

[Damien102]

Hi all
I'm into flowering on my first grow. My trichomes are mostly starting to cloud up. I'm thinking I'm going to do the flush in the next couple days, then just water with ph'd dechlorinated water till they're ready to cut. I read that Blackstrap Molasses is mostly beneficial during flowering (bulks up the buds I've read). My question is after I stop feeding nutes, can I continue with the blackstrap all the way to harvest? I'm using Holiday brand, it is unsulfured, and blackstrap molasses is the only ingredient listed on the label, but the label does not say organic

 

[zigzagman1960]

Hi all
I'm into flowering on my first grow. My trichomes are mostly starting to cloud up. I'm thinking I'm going to do the flush in the next couple days, then just water with ph'd dechlorinated water till they're ready to cut. I read that Blackstrap Molasses is mostly beneficial during flowering (bulks up the buds I've read). My question is after I stop feeding nutes, can I continue with the blackstrap all the way to harvest? I'm using Holiday brand, it is unsulfured, and blackstrap molasses is the only ingredient listed on the label, but the label does not say organic

I’d feed till the end. Flushing is for toilets.

 

[Phytoplankton]

Unsulphered molasses is fine, it feeds the microbes in the soil which in turn helps release nutrients. Flushing is your choice, but why would you starve your plants when they are trying to swell the buds and put on weight? Flushing (except to clear the soil of salts) has been found to be ineffective. For good taste, mellow smoke, the drying/curing process is the key.

 

[Damien102]

Unsulphered molasses is fine, it feeds the microbes in the soil which in turn helps release nutrients. Flushing is your choice, but why would you starve your plants when they are trying to swell the buds and put on weight? Flushing (except to clear the soil of salts) has been found to be ineffective. For good taste, mellow smoke, the drying/curing process is the key.

For good taste, mellow smoke (less harsh), is what I read why anyone flushes and then just use water for the last two weeks. I also read when you flush 2 weeks before harvest your getting the nutes/chemicals out of the soil so the plant doesn't up take any more, but still is thriving off the nutes in the stem/branches for 2 weeks with only the very end being deprived of them hence no chem taste and reduced harshness. Like I said, this is my first grow and am not trying to dispute what anyone says (I know nothing), but would like to know why I do what I do.

 

[JoetheChro]

I’d feed till the end. Flushing is for toilets.

Wow. Have been away from here for 3 years. Not flushing would have got you crucified back in the day. Times they are a changing

 

[JoetheChro]

For good taste, mellow smoke (less harsh), is what I read why anyone flushes and then just use water for the last two weeks. I also read when you flush 2 weeks before harvest your getting the nutes/chemicals out of the soil so the plant doesn't up take any more, but still is thriving off the nutes in the stem/branches for 2 weeks with only the very end being deprived of them hence no chem taste and reduced harshness. Like I said, this is my first grow and am not trying to dispute what anyone says (I know nothing), but would like to know why I do what I do.

You say true mate, been flushing since 06. Have used molasses a few times and noticed a smoother flavour and smoke. Nice to try it with and without until you get a preference. Will head over to your journal and have a look at what's popping bro

 

[zigzagman1960]

For good taste, mellow smoke (less harsh), is what I read why anyone flushes and then just use water for the last two weeks. I also read when you flush 2 weeks before harvest your getting the nutes/chemicals out of the soil so the plant doesn't up take any more, but still is thriving off the nutes in the stem/branches for 2 weeks with only the very end being deprived of them hence no chem taste and reduced harshness. Like I said, this is my first grow and am not trying to dispute what anyone says (I know nothing), but would like to know why I do what I do.

You should feed regular nutrients all the way through. The last 2 weeks the buds are swelling and really getting ripe. Bad idea to starve at this time..starving buds will cannibalize the plant. Thats why the leaves turn colors for flushers. The so called fade is usually EARLY nitrogen and phosphorus deficiency. For a first time grower its difficult to determine when your plants actually have 2 weeks left, it is an acquired skill. Post some pics, we are here to help keep you out of the dispensary. Here is a plant that needs a week or 2 to finish. The leaves are green and the buds are swelling nicely.

just so you get an idea--

 

[Phytoplankton]

For good taste, mellow smoke (less harsh), is what I read why anyone flushes and then just use water for the last two weeks. I also read when you flush 2 weeks before harvest your getting the nutes/chemicals out of the soil so the plant doesn't up take any more, but still is thriving off the nutes in the stem/branches for 2 weeks with only the very end being deprived of them hence no chem taste and reduced harshness. Like I said, this is my first grow and am not trying to dispute what anyone says (I know nothing), but would like to know why I do what I do.

They've done chemical analysis on flushed vs non flushed plants and found few if any differences in the chemical make-up. Blind taste tests have found most people prefer non-flushed. If you believe in flushing, then adding molasses post flush would be counterproductive, since it stimulates the bacterial/fungal growth to aid in the production of MORE nutrients. The plant does not assimilate the sugars from molasses, the soil organisms do!

 

[zigzagman1960]

For good taste, mellow smoke (less harsh),

Cut em down and straight to low light-Dip the trees in a 5%H2O2 solution (1 cup hydrogen peroxide/ 5gal water. Then dip in plain water. Water should be room temp-ice water releases the trichomes. Drip dry with a box fan no more than an hour just to get the water off. You can skip this step but it makes for clean tasting weed.

In the drying area temp and humidity has to be controlled. 60f and 60rh In the dark for 2 weeks does the trick for good terpy weed right out of the tent. Weed can be left in the open in that environment for weeks like a walk in cigar humidor.

After 2 weeks in that SPECIFIC environment you can jar it and skip all the silly burping-your weed is now 60-62rh. It will mellow with age in the jar in an O2 free environment. Sugars and starches are taken up by anaerobic action were nitrogen (green weed) is key. Unfortunately SOME terpenes are spent in this process. Thats why many prefer the fresh just hung stuff--that smell and taste of the fresh hung is pleasant to the nose and a bit sharper on the throat.

***I keep saying green weed and you may be thinking I'm growing purple this or that-Purple does happen--kinda unique though. Grand daddy purple is green most of the time. But true purple flowers are awesome looking.

 

[SmokingWings]

The move away from flushing soil started years ago. Before I joined I had read through many threads that were a couple of years old and was already seeing members who grew in soil writing that it was not necessary and possibly bad for the overall health of the plant. The recommendation to not flush soil grows that are amended with organic or natural ingredients is probably 6 to 7 years old now.

There is a big difference is the use of natural nutrients versus the use of chemically or man-made fertilizers. The heavy use of salt based nutrient mixes is what is considered to create problems near the end. A good flushing of the soil allows the surviving soil micro-organisms to reproduce quickly and they will go back to breaking down the remaining organic material which feeds the plant.

If the grower kept to a natural or organic method of fertilizing then there is no reason to flush everything out of the soil and start over with only 2 weeks to go.

However, if the grower fed the plant by using salt based nutrients or nutrients intended for hydro style growing then there is a good reason to consider flushing all those salts out of the soil and letting the plant finish the floweriing cycle by feeding off the remaining natural nutrients left in the soil.

 

[Damien102]

You should feed regular nutrients all the way through. The last 2 weeks the buds are swelling and really getting ripe. Bad idea to starve at this time..starving buds will cannibalize the plant. Thats why the leaves turn colors for flushers. The so called fade is usually EARLY nitrogen and phosphorus deficiency. For a first time grower its difficult to determine when your plants actually have 2 weeks left, it is an acquired skill. Post some pics, we are here to help keep you out of the dispensary. Here is a plant that needs a week or 2 to finish. The leaves are green and the buds are swelling nicely. just so you get an idea--

For a first time grower its difficult to determine when your plants actually have 2 weeks left, it is an acquired skill.
That's a big problem for me. Bud sites started coming up 33 days ago so by the clock I'm thinking they should be 2 weeks off, but from looking they seem to be further off than that.
Post some pics,... Here ya go..... taken 5 minutes ago
(BTW love the nic and avitar... Havent seen Mr ZigZag in decades... Do they even sell ZigZag paoers any more?)

 

[Pat Puffer]

Molasses is an organic chelating agent:

Organic molasses also works as a chelating agent, or organic stimulant, to convert the soil's tied-up nutrients into a form that's easily accessible to plants. Chelated minerals can be absorbed directly and remain available and stable in the soil.

Here's the link for reference purposes in case you would like to read more.

More information is available on the web for anyone who would care to read more. At the moment I can't seem to find info not related to fertilizer companies.

 

[zigzagman1960]

For a first time grower its difficult to determine when your plants actually have 2 weeks left, it is an acquired skill.
That's a big problem for me. Bud sites started coming up 33 days ago so by the clock I'm thinking they should be 2 weeks off, but from looking they seem to be further off than that.
Post some pics,... Here ya go..... taken 5 minutes ago
(BTW love the nic and avitar... Havent seen Mr ZigZag in decades... Do they even sell ZigZag paoers any more?)

Those plants will be done in 5 or 6 weeks. Keep feeding, the yellow/ brown leaf tips are telling me they are getting plenty of nutrients. Looks sativa dominant so 11 or 12 weeks of flowering is typical. Nice job.

 

[Damien102]

Those plants will be done in 5 or 6 weeks. Keep feeding, the yellow/ brown leaf tips are telling me they are getting plenty of nutrients. Looks sativa dominant so 11 or 12 weeks of flowering is typical. Nice job.

Thanks.... They are GG Auto's from MSNL. I'm happy with the grow (for my first) I was going to SCROG but put it off and over night they got really out of hand, then it was to late, so I just kept bending and tieing down best I could. This is what came of it (2x2x4 tent, 2 plants, 5 gal pots). Its hard to see from the picture, but they are wall to wall and right up to within several inches from the light. Its a 105 true watt quantum board and the taller ones arent burning @ maybe 2 inches away

​

 

[Emilya Green]

For a first time grower its difficult to determine when your plants actually have 2 weeks left, it is an acquired skill.
That's a big problem for me. Bud sites started coming up 33 days ago so by the clock I'm thinking they should be 2 weeks off, but from looking they seem to be further off than that.
Post some pics,... Here ya go..... taken 5 minutes ago
(BTW love the nic and avitar... Havent seen Mr ZigZag in decades... Do they even sell ZigZag paoers any more?)

These look like 4th week bloom buds to me. You probably have the better part of 4 weeks left to go, from what I am seeing from here.

 

[Phytoplankton]

The move away from flushing soil started years ago. Before I joined I had read through many threads that were a couple of years old and was already seeing members who grew in soil writing that it was not necessary and possibly bad for the overall health of the plant. The recommendation to not flush soil grows that are amended with organic or natural ingredients is probably 6 to 7 years old now.

There is a big difference is the use of natural nutrients versus the use of chemically or man-made fertilizers. The heavy use of salt based nutrient mixes is what is considered to create problems near the end. A good flushing of the soil allows the surviving soil micro-organisms to reproduce quickly and they will go back to breaking down the remaining organic material which feeds the plant.

If the grower kept to a natural or organic method of fertilizing then there is no reason to flush everything out of the soil and start over with only 2 weeks to go.

However, if the grower fed the plant by using salt based nutrients or nutrients intended for hydro style growing then there is a good reason to consider flushing all those salts out of the soil and letting the plant finish the floweriing cycle by feeding off the remaining natural nutrients left in the soil.

First, I think we're trying to say pretty close to the same thing. Chemically ,there is no difference between the nutrients taken up in an organic grow and a synthetic grow. What is different is the way they get there, and what is left over. In synthetic nutes the nutes are bonded to a "salt", that disassociates, leaving the nute and a residual "salt" (not NACL). The salts can build up and cause lockout, particularly if you're not watering to runoff. In that case a "flush" is used to leach the salts out of the soil and "re-set" the soil, then nute feeding can resume. So, there are two kinds of flushes, one to remove salts, which is often required in synthetic grows. Then there's a flush a couple weeks before harvest, that was thought to remove undesirable/excess nutrients from the plant (but it doesn't).

 

[Zephyrs]

Molasses is an organic chelating agent:

Organic molasses also works as a chelating agent, or organic stimulant, to convert the soil's tied-up nutrients into a form that's easily accessible to plants. Chelated minerals can be absorbed directly and remain available and stable in the soil.

Here's the link for reference purposes in case you would like to read more.

More information is available on the web for anyone who would care to read more. At the moment I can't seem to find info not related to fertilizer companies.

I have too agree with this ^^ as an LOS grower myself. I Completely Concur with that I use un-sulphered blackstrap mollasas every other watering until chop week!