Monster Cloning & Seeds, LEDs, Promix & Soil

Howdy 420,

Thanks for stopping in! This is my second grow with 420 Mag. I cannot believe the increase in density in buds I noticed with the help recieved on this site. :peace:

We will be in a 4*4 or 5*5 depending on how many lights I get. I want to fill the tent with those boards that seem to pull out trichomes and run cool.

6in carbon filter exhaust fan

Quick grow, future harvest and general hydro nuts.

One or two plants will be organic in worm vermi also I started a worm farm.



Expert Seeds:
3 - Gorilla Glue x Lilly
3 - Cali Orange
1 - Cali Bay Dream
Crop King:
2 - Sour Diesel
1 - Green Crack
2 - OG Kush x Haze

Monster crop is pure Raspberry Kush from canafarms.
Monster crop I got one root day 27 in my cloner.











Ok let the adventure begin.
Cheers!

Lowded
:peace::rollit:
 
I know a lot of theory, but don't have the wisdom from using it much..... :high-five:
 
@Bonsaiweed I'd love to learn your theory. Right now I have a vermi mix of 1-1 bacteria fungi. I spoke to one fella and he was saying I may want a higher fungi amt...does this sound at all like what the theory says? Lol. I don't know. If so I have to increase my cardboard and feed some oats lol.
:reading420magazine::passitleft::reading420magazine:
Dabber says put those root balls and any fan leaves in the bin!!!! The worms will turn your plant matter into exactly what the plants want for food. Or that's my 2 cents. Coffee grounds, veggie scraps egg shells and drier lent. Case closed

:thumb:
 
Oh never more than 25% fresh produce or fan leaves. Any more it will cook compost style and fry your wigglers....

I know I'm using a tote but maybe you can add some dirt too? Not a ton just some for the creepy crawlers
 
Howdy 420,

Thanks for stopping in! This is my second grow with 420 Mag. I cannot believe the increase in density in buds I noticed with the help recieved on this site. :peace:

We will be in a 4*4 or 5*5 depending on how many lights I get. I want to fill the tent with those boards that seem to pull out trichomes and run cool.

6in carbon filter exhaust fan

Quick grow, future harvest and general hydro nuts.

One or two plants will be organic in worm vermi also I started a worm farm.



Expert Seeds:
3 - Gorilla Glue x Lilly
3 - Cali Orange
1 - Cali Bay Dream
Crop King:
2 - Sour Diesel
1 - Green Crack
2 - OG Kush x Haze

Monster crop is pure Raspberry Kush from canafarms.
Monster crop I got one root day 27 in my cloner.











Ok let the adventure begin.
Cheers!

Lowded
:peace::rollit:
Green crack and sour diesel ph my nice ✊

Ps leafs suck Boston in 5
 
@Bonsaiweed I'd love to learn your theory. Right now I have a vermi mix of 1-1 bacteria fungi. I spoke to one fella and he was saying I may want a higher fungi amt...does this sound at all like what the theory says? Lol. I don't know. If so I have to increase my cardboard and feed some oats lol.
:reading420magazine::passitleft::reading420magazine:
Dabber says put those root balls and any fan leaves in the bin!!!! The worms will turn your plant matter into exactly what the plants want for food. Or that's my 2 cents. Coffee grounds, veggie scraps egg shells and drier lent. Case closed

:thumb:
Oh never more than 25% fresh produce or fan leaves. Any more it will cook compost style and fry your wigglers....

I know I'm using a tote but maybe you can add some dirt too? Not a ton just some for the creepy crawlers

From all I've read, you never really know how much fungi you have. You would have to do some real heavy root biopsies to find out. I don't think you need to. The more of the right kind of food you feed, the more beneficial fungi you are going to have, up to a point that no more will help. They multiply just like any other living organism.

Dabber is right. Worm castings are the thing the fungi like best. It is readily available to the fungi. No more processing is required.

I've talked to so many people, that have studied all of this, that it really is remarkable. If you feed your plant a balanced vermicompost diet, the plants' immune system gets so strong, even most bugs will leave it alone.

Now that is all based on food-based plants, but I don't see the difference.

Some carbon is required or the bacteria will not be nutritious enough for the worms. Paper or cardboard really helps.

The green items will cause a thermophilic pile, and the worms don't like that. You can do that in the winter to keep them warm, but in the summer you must cut down or cut out the nitrogen storing items (green).

If you want the low down, you can do a lot of "feeding" reading on Red Worm Composting (it's a website). Worm composting HQ is another good site to learn about worms.

I will warn, that compost does attract some pests we do not want near our plants. Fungus gnats are one. They love worm bins. They don't hurt the worms, so no big deal for the worm bin. But a huge deal for your plants. But you can treat your bin with BT and the red worms don't care. It doesn't affect them at all.

Hope all this helps.
 
Thanks Bonsai! That definately helps! I'm being a little shy on the forthcoming of info.
My Cuz counts the castings for fungi and bacteria. She has a huge microscope. That's were I got the ratio. I was "in training" lol. I was informed that to keep the ratio of 1:1 I had to feed 20 carbon to 1 scraps. And if I wanted to raise the fungi(which I'm already thinking about) to go up to 40-1. Does tgat make sense?? Iwas told to increase fungi to add oats and to increase bacteria add molasses. Lol. This is a little overwhelming.
I'm really looking forward to this. It will be a year(9mo) till that bin gets going so I've some time to learn and experiment with this bag of vermi I was gifted. Btw I was blessed to have the hut, worms and vermi gifted!
Going to try the easiest first and mix 25%with coco and see how that works. Also going to saturate the pot so I know exactly how much fluid it takes to fill. I don't think run off is good if all you have are bugs in your soil? Ugghh
 
I mean @Blew Hiller was my worm coach. And for now it's like a KISS method. I add dead leaves green leaves but as you saw I my journal it's mostly just soil coco peat and perlite. The coco I added were old dead root balls attached.

I know nothing about ratios just that my worms have gone ape shit on the container. Going to grab another batch tomorrow of soil and peat. I already have perlite. Fungus and bacteria will be naturally occurring in any decomposing material. Carbon is an easy one. Ash tray? Fire pit? Mix some charcoal in, and boom.

Snow is melting more and more every day time to ramp up the veggies out side! I can see the tip of my compost pile and will seed it with worms at the soonest possible chance.

What a fun hobby huh?

@Bonsaiweed what is the stuff for bugs that is okay for worms? Is NEEM meal like NEEM oil? And how do I get the bug resistent plant? Enough microbes. High enough brix?
 
Subbed for the ride, best of luck to you.✌️
Just Subbed.
From all I've read, you never really know how much fungi you have. You would have to do some real heavy root biopsies to find out. I don't think you need to. The more of the right kind of food you feed, the more beneficial fungi you are going to have, up to a point that no more will help. They multiply just like any other living organism.

Dabber is right. Worm castings are the thing the fungi like best. It is readily available to the fungi. No more processing is required.

I've talked to so many people, that have studied all of this, that it really is remarkable. If you feed your plant a balanced vermicompost diet, the plants' immune system gets so strong, even most bugs will leave it alone.

Now that is all based on food-based plants, but I don't see the difference.

Some carbon is required or the bacteria will not be nutritious enough for the worms. Paper or cardboard really helps.

The green items will cause a thermophilic pile, and the worms don't like that. You can do that in the winter to keep them warm, but in the summer you must cut down or cut out the nitrogen storing items (green).

If you want the low down, you can do a lot of "feeding" reading on Red Worm Composting (it's a website). Worm composting HQ is another good site to learn about worms.

I will warn, that compost does attract some pests we do not want near our plants. Fungus gnats are one. They love worm bins. They don't hurt the worms, so no big deal for the worm bin. But a huge deal for your plants. But you can treat your bin with BT and the red worms don't care. It doesn't affect them at all.

Hope all this helps.
I mean @Blew Hiller was my worm coach. And for now it's like a KISS method. I add dead leaves green leaves but as you saw I my journal it's mostly just soil coco peat and perlite. The coco I added were old dead root balls attached.

I know nothing about ratios just that my worms have gone ape shit on the container. Going to grab another batch tomorrow of soil and peat. I already have perlite. Fungus and bacteria will be naturally occurring in any decomposing material. Carbon is an easy one. Ash tray? Fire pit? Mix some charcoal in, and boom.

Snow is melting more and more every day time to ramp up the veggies out side! I can see the tip of my compost pile and will seed it with worms at the soonest possible chance.

What a fun hobby huh?

@Bonsaiweed what is the stuff for bugs that is okay for worms? Is NEEM meal like NEEM oil? And how do I get the bug resistent plant? Enough microbes. High enough brix?

Welcome friends!
 
I mean

[USER=322299]@Bonsaiweed
what is the stuff for bugs that is okay for worms? Is NEEM meal like NEEM oil? And how do I get the bug resistent plant? Enough microbes. High enough brix?

Mosquito Dunks or Bacillus thuringiensis

It's a bacteria that does something to the gnat larvae that prevents them from eating.

Also, I'm not knocking anyone's method. I'm just relaying what the college and industrial worm compost makers are doing. Most of what I'm passing along came directly from Auburn University. They have spent decades researching worms, worm castings, and worm composting. All in the name of creating a true organic farming method, for very large farms. They are not there yet but have gotten it to the point a micro-farm can use their methods.

Just like cannabis, there are a million ways to do this.

This is what I've read with regard to the plant being bug resistant. When fed a worm compost that is balanced, the plant's immune system will create a balance, like what happens in nature automatically. The fungi are the secret to the plant's immune system. They allow the plant to defend itself with its natural defense mechanisms. This can be as simple as the liquid in the plant becoming distasteful to the pest in question. Or the liquid becoming thick and hard to harvest for the pests.

I do have a problem with this though. Bugs will attack the weakest of what is available. So some pest control will be needed indoors. We can't keep all of our plants as healthy as others. A healthy plant basically sacrifices the weaker plant close to them.

There is an Orchid farm in the UK, that is growing in hydro using worm compost tea (ONLY), and has become 100% organic. They use no pesticides. But I do think that they do have some plants that end up being the sacrificial lambs. They use no other nutrients or pesticides (by the article). It's increased their output and reduced their costs. I won't quote numbers because I don't remember by how much.

Now with all this being said, there are some differences with all of these organic products. Like NFTG and the like. Be careful with what you believe is organic. It can be organic but skip feeding the microbes/fungi.

Some feed the microbes/fungi. Others are organic but feed the plant directly. The optimum for pest resistance will be by feeding the microbes/fungi. But for the best plant/yield, feeding the plant directly is the best. Hence why hydro works so well.

There must be some balance, and that is hard if you feed the plant directly. The plant, if fed directly, will not communicate with the fungi/microbes. It doesn't need to. That is going to screw with the symbiotic relationship of the microbes and the plant. If the plant doesn't' need the microbes..... then the immune system is flawed.

I don't know enough about the high brix system to give an educated answer. I can only say, the college people are only using worm compost. They are not amending it with anything (maybe some limestone or other grit for the worms). But they do control what the worms eat. Mostly food scraps, grocery store rejects, and paper/cardboard.

I know that was a lot, but I wanted to cover the topics that were asked. This is what I believe, and have been told. I can't swear to it, but it seems to work. It is the direction I'm headed, but it does take time to get the full circle going (worms).

This is just information I believe to be true. I can't state it as truth, because the truth is elusive.

I'm just a simple old dood that loves nature. I think she has worked on it longer than we have. It would stand to reason maybe we should do it her way.

I'm going for qualtity over quantity. I always have and always will.
 
Great info there bud.

I asked about the hi brix because I guess once the brix level gets to a certain point bugs aren't interested. I don't know much I read docs page a long time ago. But I do know from sue that the kit and LOS or this worm poop stuff are fundamentally different cannot be used in conjunction (they achieve the same means different ways).

Anyways thanks again for the good info.
 
Welcome friends!
Hey, was it you that cracked your new dab rig??

There is a new sponsor that is made for dab rigs.... It looks really cool, and would save a rig from cracking I believe. I tagged Dabber and someone else (I don't remember who). I was going to tag you, but didn't remember if it were you that cracked the rig.
 
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