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Mother, Germination & Small Batch Combination Station

multiVortex

Well-Known Member
Let me start off by saying that the following is just a concept. I'm still thinking it over, and by no means am I close to ready to do anything like this. However, I am trying to plan ahead a bit. So here we go. :)


I've been thinking it over for a bit, and wondering what I can do to accomplish a few goals:

a) Space for a few mothers
b) Space for germ/seedling
c) Space for small batch grows (a couple three autos, a single photo, etc)
d) Space for experimentation
e) Space for drying, or whatever else


As it stands, I have available (or will have shortly) (2) 4x4 tents, and a 4x2 tent. That's all fine and dandy. When I started thinking this up, there was only (1) 4x4, but the situation as a whole still persists.

I'd like to have some type of space where I can tinker around, keep a handful of mothers, sprout some seeds, etc. So I got to thinking and knew I had come across some tents that had a grow area and a sprout/seedling/mother area.

I began digging into that a bit, and found that for the cost it just wasn't worth it. The quality wasn't tops, and the design wasn't quite what I wanted. I did find some grow cabinets that were similar, but not for the prices they want for those! So I began thinking and doodling to come up with an initial draft. Here it is:

custom-tent.jpg



This isn't a final blueprint, but a simple concept. It provides for a primary grow area that is 4ft wide, 2.5ft deep, and 7ft tall. It also provides (2) smaller spaces which are 2x2.5x3.5. There is a 12" void between the chambers, as well as a 12" void under the floor for ventilation/cables/plumbing/etc.

With the floor void I can snake ducting underneath to supply air intake. As it would be sitting on a concrete floor in the basement, the ducting would remain pretty cool, plus all of the snaking would allow for even further contact of the duct with the floor and help maintain it's cool air state. It would also provide light trapping, which is obviously important.

I will also be able to route plumbing (like an emergency drain, or whatever) for various needs as well.


Having a void between grow chambers allows for the running of ducting, wiring, etc.


I can use the bottom small chamber for mothers. At 2ft x 2.5ft that should allow me 6-8 or so in a bonsai style setup. The top chamber can be for germination, seedlings, etc.

The main chamber would be multi-purpose. I would mount rails in the middle off the left and right sides which would allow me to turn it into a 2-level area if desired. This also allows for room to grow a couple of autos, a unique photo, experiment with styles, etc.

I would probably use a 6" exhaust for the whole thing, along with a carbon filter. Each chamber would most likely have passive intakes through the voids, which would lead to a carbon filter in the wall void which will be attached to the exhaust.

Still working all those details out, but kicking around that idea.

Would have doors on the front and back for access, and some type of access for the bottom void. Most likely from any side. All walls in the grow areas would get the diamond reflective material (which will probably be half the cost of the build. lol)



If it's spring time, I can also double up and use this for my outdoor garden seedlings, which is a plus.

If I were to build something like this, it would replace my secondary 4x4 and 4x2. I could then use those as backups, drying space (if this box is in use) or whatever. Most likely they will sit dormant 95% of the time. I may end up going with an 8ft overall width, simply because lumber is 8ft and that would end up wasting 1ft on some boards. If so I could then have an 18" void between chambers, and then that would make the small chambers 2.5x2.5 and square.


Now of course I don't have 8ft ceilings in the basement, either. They're like 7'10". Might mean the bottom void ends up only 8" instead of 12", but that still leaves the grow areas the same.

If I organize it right, I could have this at the other end of my basement, which would allow me to use wall vents which are already in place, without having to either install a new one or run 80ft of ducting all the way across the basement.


Back to the bottom void. That's a lot of space underneath. I suppose I could section it out a bit, and come up with some way to add a cheap furnace filter to the intake. Certainly would keep the gunk/dust/bugs from being sucked in. I could run 1" pipe from the bottom to each small chamber, maybe two or three for the main area. Those would be passive, then in the wall void I would put the carbon filter and exhaust fan. Add slots/holes at the top of each grow chamber, and there we go. Place the passive intakes opposite the exhaust, and that sets up the cross-ventilation.

The main chamber and bottom small would have vents through the floor, directly to the void. The upper small would need the pipe. Would need to figure out how to do the floor ones, so that light is trapped. A zig-zag or P-trap style should work. Maybe a vertical section of pipe in the floor void, into a 90* elbow, up into the grow chamber, into a 90* elbow, with a final length of pipe. Make kind of an S, or even a U out of it. Would work, but will need to check out the air dynamics of all that.



Summing up parts (minus lights and exhaust fan) I could build it for about $450, give or take. That doesn't include style specific plumbing, like for a gravity drain to a res, recirculating hempy, or anything like that. Just the box, ready to go.

Carbon filter and fan, add $200ish.

Lights I would already have, so that's good.


Oh, and the lumber calculated was for a 4ft depth, not 2.5ft. (You know, 8ft boards, cut in half is 4ft, why waste it, blah blah blah.)

I could do a 6ft board and cut in half, which would be 3ft depth, so maybe that happens instead.


For the lumber I spec'd out the following lumber:

- treated 2x4 (frame)
- treated 4x4 (corner posts)
- treated 4x8 1/2" plywood (floors)
- 1x4 appearance board (poplar)
- 4x8 poplar plywood (doors/walls)


I would have to put together a real measurement, but that's pretty close. So for roughly $650 before lighting, that's not bad at all.

If one were to also add lights...

The 2 small spaces could do fine with $150 per light, and that's QB style. Could probably get it to $100 or a hair less each if you wanted to go blurple style. (This isn't an LED debate, just throwing it out there.)

The main space would need a bit more. Let's assume for now it's 4x3. Several ways to go about lighting this, but for the sake of simplicity for now, we can go with (2) 250w, 2-board panels from Budget LED for $600 (current price, without any discounts available). We could also go with something from Mars Hydro for a little less.

Lighting is a personal choice, and that should be left to ones own decisions. For heat reasons I'll say LED of some type, and the cooler running the better.

That would put us at $900 for lighting, and brings the top end total to $1550. One can budget it down a bit, or if they already have some of the pieces needed. Myself for example, I could potentially just use the 4" exhaust I have on hand, and not worry about it. It would clear the whole thing well enough. Not on its lowest setting, but even then it's still only sucking up just under 30w and super quiet. No problem. (Could also spend maybe another $20 and add some noise reduction to the wall void to make it even more quiet.) If I were to do all of that, and considering I already have lighting, then I've already reduced the cost by 2/3 down to about $500.

Even at $1550, compare that to the $4k-$5k for an off the shelf grow cabinet. It's 2/3 cheaper, way more configurable, better built, and you can paint/stain/decorate as you see fit. :)



So that's that. That is the idea I'm kicking around in my head for the time being. :19::19::19:
 

Old Salt

Member of the Month: Apr 2019
I'm going to suggest an electrical panel with two built-in timers be placed in front of the vertical void. Add four receptacles to the grow spaces, one near the top each of the smaller ones, and two in the larger, one near the top, and a second just below it's center. One side of the receptacles can go to switches, allowing you to switch between the two timers. (one for flowering, the other for veg. The power should be two feeds of 15 Amps, and be routed through GFI receptacles.

A 3" - 4" plenum at the top of each chamber will allow you to use diffusers for extraction. Your fan and in-line filter will fit between the sides of your assembly.

I think two by fours, and four by fours are over kill for your design. Consider 1 X 3's instead. You can join them at 90° for the corners to make a very sturdy structure, at a lower cost. You may want to use insulation panels covered with foil on the inside of your structure. Aluminum duct tape can be used to seal the seams.

Are you moving the drivers/ballasts out of the grow areas? You can plan for that now, and even route the exhaust over them for active cooling.
 

multiVortex

Well-Known Member
I'm going to suggest an electrical panel with two built-in timers be placed in front of the vertical void. Add four receptacles to the grow spaces, one near the top each of the smaller ones, and two in the larger, one near the top, and a second just below it's center. One side of the receptacles can go to switches, allowing you to switch between the two timers. (one for flowering, the other for veg. The power should be two feeds of 15 Amps, and be routed through GFI receptacles.

If I were to build something like this, it would already have access to two 15A GFI circuits, so that's perfect. :D

Wouldn't need panels or anything like that. The electrician did a good job putting those around the basement area, and on their own breakers. There are 6 total, and 3 of them are within reach of my grow corner. Not sure if this corner was built with a "shop" in mind, or what. I'm quite happy they are there though.

For internal wiring, while it would be bad ass to just need to flip switches and such on the outside, I think I'll keep it simple and just run cords out of ducts like a tent. I'll sleep easier at night without the worry about humidity and electricity coming into contact. :19::19:



A 3" - 4" plenum at the top of each chamber will allow you to use diffusers for extraction. Your fan and in-line filter will fit between the sides of your assembly.

Was thinking for the filter, and maybe the fan, to be inside the vertical void space. Unless I'm misreading your idea, which is possible as the power has been out for an hour and I've had no COFFEE!!!!!!!



I think two by fours, and four by fours are over kill for your design. Consider 1 X 3's instead. You can join them at 90° for the corners to make a very sturdy structure, at a lower cost. You may want to use insulation panels covered with foil on the inside of your structure. Aluminum duct tape can be used to seal the seams.

I thought about that, and you're right. It probably would hold up just fine with 1x3's/1x4's. On my "estimate" above I intentionally wanted to go overkill. That puts me at a realistic max cost, and let's me see if it would be a feasible project or not. I think that the numbers show it's not a bad option if I (or anyone else) really wanted to put together their own cabinet.



Are you moving the drivers/ballasts out of the grow areas? You can plan for that now, and even route the exhaust over them for active cooling.

For the small LED's that would be used in this for myself, I think I would just leave the drivers as they come. Now I agree that it would absolutely be possible to do something like peg board on one (or both) of the vertical void walls and mount things like drivers to that. Keeps them inside the unit, but not inside the grow chambers.


Something I was thinking about last evening was how to put it together so it can be taken apart without too much fuss. Which is probably the biggest obstacle for me right now. If I were to actually build it anytime soon, I wouldn't want to weaken the structure by taking it all apart and putting it back together when I move at some point in the next few years. If the width were 32", that gets me through doors just fine on the width. Now the height is another matter.

In that regard, I've thought about different ways to "split" it horizontally, but have not came up with anything good enough yet. An ideal split would be between the floor/ceiling of the small grow chambers. My concern with that is weakening of the structure integrity. That being where the strength for the ceiling comes, and where all the equipment is going to hang from (save one light on the lower small chamber) leaves me uncomfortable. I could cap it at the 6' mark and do the same, but be able to better secure it.
 

Old Salt

Member of the Month: Apr 2019
Was thinking for the filter, and maybe the fan, to be inside the vertical void space. Unless I'm misreading your idea, which is possible as the power has been out for an hour and I've had no COFFEE!!!!!!!
I was thinking more along these lines. No fan in the plenum. It's only an air passageway.

Something I was thinking about last evening was how to put it together so it can be taken apart without too much fuss.
I :love: T-Nuts! T-Nuts and bolts will let you disassemble and move the cabinet.
 

multiVortex

Well-Known Member
I was thinking more along these lines. No fan in the plenum. It's only an air passageway.

Got ya. We're on the same page, but I was going to put vent slots/holes on the walls of the vertical void, at the top of each grow chamber. That saves space at the top, and every inch of height counts. :)

The intakes will be on the floor, on the opposite side from the exhaust. With the fan/filter in the void, it should suck right out. Being opposite sides, it should create a cross breeze on it's own, but obviously I would supplement with internal circulation fans as usual.



I :love: T-Nuts! T-Nuts and bolts will let you disassemble and move the cabinet.

"That's a fine idea." - Forrest Gump.

I don't know why I always overlook those.


Still a bit leery of how it would affect the strength of the vertical support legs. The real sticking point would be on the main grow chamber. I'd have to put a support across the width, which would be in the way when trying to work in there.

I guess it could also be tipped on edge to get it through a door to counter the height.
 

Old Salt

Member of the Month: Apr 2019
"That's a fine idea." - Forrest Gump.

I don't know why I always overlook those.


Still a bit leery of how it would affect the strength of the vertical support legs. The real sticking point would be on the main grow chamber. I'd have to put a support across the width, which would be in the way when trying to work in there.

I guess it could also be tipped on edge to get it through a door to counter the height.
I built this a few years ago for a contest. The verticals, and base are 1 X 3's screwed together with drywall screws, and proved to be very strong. All the pieces are held together with T-Nuts. It was all assembled on a different site every morning, and disassembled after the rush hour for over two months. It worked very well, even in high winds when I staked it to the ground with 2' lengths of rebar. I'll be using the same techniques if I ever build a grow cabinet.


Display for Contest
 

multiVortex

Well-Known Member
I built this a few years ago for a contest. The verticals, and base are 1 X 3's screwed together with drywall screws, and proved to be very strong. All the pieces are held together with T-Nuts. It was all assembled on a different site every morning, and disassembled after the rush hour for over two months. It worked very well, even in high winds when I staked it to the ground with 2' lengths of rebar. I'll be using the same techniques if I ever build a grow cabinet.


Display for Contest

Nice counter sinking! :D


1x3s would be fine, certainly. I priced 2x4s and 4x4s as overkill. Price-wise it came out tolerable, and 1x3s will be cheaper, so we're good.

I was looking at some of the finer details and poking around. I don't think the void underneath need be more then 8 inches tall, if that. I found some 6in tall, 24in long, and 1in thick furnace filters (rated for dust/mold/bacteria/viruses) that would be awesome on the main air intake. Also found some 1inch and 2inch round, screen vent caps that would be good on the internal vent holes. Screen is about the same mesh as a window screen, and I'm thinking a little cheese cloth would help that out and be great. Keep the little bugs out if they get into the bottom.

Speaking of the bottom, thinking foam tape on the bottom, unless I seal it up with plywood. Plywood would add to the cost as opposed to the very bottom (bottom of the void) just being open. If I were to leave it open, I the foam tape on the bottom would help seal it against the floor. Plywood bottom would be the best option, but not necessary by any means.
 

Old Salt

Member of the Month: Apr 2019
Nice counter sinking! :D


1x3s would be fine, certainly. I priced 2x4s and 4x4s as overkill. Price-wise it came out tolerable, and 1x3s will be cheaper, so we're good.

I was looking at some of the finer details and poking around. I don't think the void underneath need be more then 8 inches tall, if that. I found some 6in tall, 24in long, and 1in thick furnace filters (rated for dust/mold/bacteria/viruses) that would be awesome on the main air intake. Also found some 1inch and 2inch round, screen vent caps that would be good on the internal vent holes. Screen is about the same mesh as a window screen, and I'm thinking a little cheese cloth would help that out and be great. Keep the little bugs out if they get into the bottom.

Speaking of the bottom, thinking foam tape on the bottom, unless I seal it up with plywood. Plywood would add to the cost as opposed to the very bottom (bottom of the void) just being open. If I were to leave it open, I the foam tape on the bottom would help seal it against the floor. Plywood bottom would be the best option, but not necessary by any means.
The reason I went with the diffusers was to allow one exhaust fan and filter to handle several tents. The diffusers are adjustable, so the flows can be set as needed for the different tents.
 

multiVortex

Well-Known Member
The reason I went with the diffusers was to allow one exhaust fan and filter to handle several tents. The diffusers are adjustable, so the flows can be set as needed for the different tents.

Right. I'm thinking the same thing, but on the wall instead of in the ceiling. ;)



Niceeee! Im watching this! Dont mind me back in the corner, I chime in here and there.

It will probably be a good while before I build something like this, but I wanted to just kick the idea around a bit and see what happens.


Grab a cup of coffee and a bowl, here's the backstory...

See, I start out the other day hooking up stuff for my new 4x4 RDWC setup. I knew I bought a 600D tent, and I was alright with that. I already had a 4x2 that was 600D (from the same company) and it's fine. Not top of the line for sure, but all things considered it was a good deal. Knowing what I wanted to build for the RDWC setup, I went ahead and just got their 4x4 version. It's fine, nothing wrong with it. (Spoiler alert: I'm going to use it as my secondary tent now.)

Where I ran into a problem was with the pole strength. Between my big light, fan, filter, etc hanging from the ceiling, it was getting to be too heavy. The light on its own is 50lb (about 23kg) and the ceiling is rated at 80lb (about 36kg.)

The end result is I ended up playing it safe and ordered up a 4x4 Gorilla. Got it for $300 shipped, so absolutely not complaining on that front.

But, while I was looking at tents in general, some thoughts were going through my head in regards to my secondary grow space. Originally that was going to be the old 4x2. No problem. Then the obvious choice was the original 4x4. However, it got me to thinking/dreaming/planning about what I would like to be able to do with that secondary space.

That is when I came up with the goals above. Then I started looking at the various "multi chamber" grow tents available, and none of them really met the needs I was looking for. They were either small on the main chamber, the secondary chambers, or all of the above. And nothing that really made some of the basic growing chores any easier.

Then the mind went into gear and I started thinking up a design, which got changed a few times, and finally into the rough draft above.

The big things to me with the current design concept are:

- I can fit 3 trays per shelf in the smaller areas
- The bottom void where I can run things like plumbing and intake ventilation without light escaping or bugs entering.
- The vertical wall void that I can use as the main exhaust suction point, run cords, hang controllers, stick a res, whatever. Pretty much that's the closet to hide shit. :D :D :D


I've also been thinking this over a bit this morning, and think I could partition that vertical void, and make a true closet/cabinet out of the front part of it. This would isolate anything electrical from the exhaust portion, and not near the concern of electricity mixing with humidity. (Not that it would be a huge deal anyway with the air exchange that would be taking place, but still.

If I made it into a 3-section void:

- Back section would be for the exhaust system. Filter, fan, etc.

- Middle would be for hanging things that don't need adjusting very often or at all (drivers, etc), as well as be the main power hook up with several power strips, etc.

- Front portion would be where things like fan controller, hygrometer, and various controls could be mounted. Put that divider on one of those magnetic latches, and it opens like a door when needed.

Now some of that adds a little to the cost, some of that cost is offset by overestimating and using larger lumber than I actually will on the build. Still, the additional cost is minimal to do something like that. Then I could wire it up so that it has two plug cords, and plug one each into outlets on different circuits.

However, If I add it all up, it may not need to be separated out into two circuits. Depends on the amps it pulls. If it's 10 or less, I think I would be fine.
 

Old Salt

Member of the Month: Apr 2019
Wow! those lights are heavy! I'm a good one to talk, my DIY light is up there as well, due to the oversized heat sinks and passive cooling.. I haven't weighed it.

A recessed door for the electrical is a good idea.

Thirty inches (76cm) is probably too small for three of the 10" X 20" standard trays. Mine are a little larger than that. You may want to check out the re-usable fiberglass trays. They last for years, and are difficult to damage.

For LED lighting I see up to 500W in the main grow area, and 300W combined for the two smaller areas. Right there you have an 8A draw. Add in the fans and pumps and you'll be over ten amps easily. It's better to design for more up front than to have to rip it apart for a future upgrade. Your design could include two separate load lines throughout, but connected together for your first kick at the cat.
 

multiVortex

Well-Known Member
Wow! those lights are heavy! I'm a good one to talk, my DIY light is up there as well, due to the oversized heat sinks and passive cooling.. I haven't weighed it.
Mine's a big girl. 47"x47". Most of the weight is from the frame though.



A recessed door for the electrical is a good idea.
That's what I was thinking. Dividing the space into 3 parts would be a good idea. The exhaust section can be accessed from the back, since it doesn't really need to be accessed often, or I could probably hinge that panel too I guess.

The center section would be good. Wouldn't be getting moisture drawn over it from the grow spaces.

Then the door to keep that closed, and put any controllers or on/off switches in there as well. Although while I'm thinking this over, I may want to make that void 2ft wide instead of just 1ft. I think the carbon filter would have a little better performance with a little more room around it, plus the extra room would be good for the other equipment, and allow for slightly easier access to the very back from the front.



Thirty inches (76cm) is probably too small for three of the 10" X 20" standard trays. Mine are a little larger than that. You may want to check out the re-usable fiberglass trays. They last for years, and are difficult to damage.

Agreed. I would prefer to have 3 trays worth of width, so may look at going 32" deep, or deal with 2 trays. That part will need some thought, as it ends up making a difference in the overall design and main grow space too. I may stick it back to 24" on the interior, just from that being a good division for plywood. (Unless it was a sheet and a half. I dunno, have to have a think on that.)



For LED lighting I see up to 500W in the main grow area, and 300W combined for the two smaller areas. Right there you have an 8A draw. Add in the fans and pumps and you'll be over ten amps easily. It's better to design for more up front than to have to rip it apart for a future upgrade. Your design could include two separate load lines throughout, but connected together for your first kick at the cat.

You're right. And could be more. I think the safe approach is to put the lighting on one circuit, and the rest on another. Granted the rest won't eat a whole lot, especially if it's not running anything hydro. Then it's just a few fans (which will be usb powered), maybe a humidifier/dehumidifier, and the exhaust fan.

Now pumps and air pumps and blah blah... yeah.

So you're right. Safety first.
 

Old Salt

Member of the Month: Apr 2019
Agreed. I would prefer to have 3 trays worth of width, so may look at going 32" deep, or deal with 2 trays. That part will need some thought, as it ends up making a difference in the overall design and main grow space too. I may stick it back to 24" on the interior, just from that being a good division for plywood. (Unless it was a sheet and a half. I dunno, have to have a think on that.)
You may be able to get two trays and a storage container or two to fit. Egg crate light diffusers work well to keep the pots out of the water, since storage containers typically don't have ridges for this.

Another option is to make the small compartments deeper instead of wider.
 

multiVortex

Well-Known Member
You may be able to get two trays and a storage container or two to fit. Egg crate light diffusers work well to keep the pots out of the water, since storage containers typically don't have ridges for this.
True enough. I like to use the basic nursery tray size. I have risers for that size, and half flats, and also have wicking mats for those as well. I really like wicking for seedlings and young plants. Keeps the moisture level even, and they can have as much or little as they want.


Another option is to make the small compartments deeper instead of wider.
True, but then you're still left with 2 flats.

When approaching 32" of space for the depth, you get into a bit of a sticky point with lighting. You can really use a 4x2 light effectively, and you're now 8" over it's recommended footprint. 30" is even pushing it. Common sense says make the inside 24", but thinking this through, the light intensity for veg requires less in general. So the lights on the small spaces can remain the same and things will still be alright. For the main chamber, I can make the walls thicker and shave the footprint down a notch to where it's less than 30" deep. More insulation, move the back wall in, but then build an exhaust hood type deal, or something. Or I could turn my lights sideways and rock the crap out of that little spot. :19::19::19:

Ugh... I didn't include sealer or stain in my estimate. And when humidity is involved, you better seal your wood up or it'll make you wish you had at some point. Edges, nail/screw/bolt holes. (I said bOLt, lol) You name it, if it's a wood surface, seal it up good.
 

Old Salt

Member of the Month: Apr 2019
True enough. I like to use the basic nursery tray size. I have risers for that size, and half flats, and also have wicking mats for those as well. I really like wicking for seedlings and young plants. Keeps the moisture level even, and they can have as much or little as they want.




True, but then you're still left with 2 flats.

When approaching 32" of space for the depth, you get into a bit of a sticky point with lighting. You can really use a 4x2 light effectively, and you're now 8" over it's recommended footprint. 30" is even pushing it. Common sense says make the inside 24", but thinking this through, the light intensity for veg requires less in general. So the lights on the small spaces can remain the same and things will still be alright. For the main chamber, I can make the walls thicker and shave the footprint down a notch to where it's less than 30" deep. More insulation, move the back wall in, but then build an exhaust hood type deal, or something. Or I could turn my lights sideways and rock the crap out of that little spot. :19::19::19:

Ugh... I didn't include sealer or stain in my estimate. And when humidity is involved, you better seal your wood up or it'll make you wish you had at some point. Edges, nail/screw/bolt holes. (I said bOLt, lol) You name it, if it's a wood surface, seal it up good.
I'd use a DIY, QB's, two Mars Hydro TSW-2000's or SP-250s for lights.

I was thinking a white epoxy paint for the interiors, and varathane or kitchen/bath paint for the exterior.
 

multiVortex

Well-Known Member
I'd use a DIY, QB's, two Mars Hydro TSW-2000's or SP-250s for lights.

I was thinking a white epoxy paint for the interiors, and varathane or kitchen/bath paint for the exterior.
I would have (2) 250w budget led’s available if I went with this. Would replace my secondary 4x4, so I would pull the gear from that.

Quite a ways off from any of that though. :)
 

multiVortex

Well-Known Member
:D Planning ahead is always good. It gives you time to refine your solutions.

Yes it does. I did price out good boards for the outside, so a nice stain on it and it should look pretty good. The inside will get kilz as a base, the outside stain. Then several coats of marine varnish to top it off. That should seal it up real good.

Maybe that will help counteract the wife and her "you're building what in the heck now??!???" :19::19::19::19:


Thinking back on the width, I better check common door width (I think it's 36", but better safe than sorry) and if it's too narrow I'll stick to the more narrow width. If I need to divide the smaller chambers into 3 shorter parts, that's ok too.
 

multiVortex

Well-Known Member
Revision # (something or other):

custom-tent-2.jpg





Now we may be stokin the fire a bit, and gettin closer to cookin with gas.


What's changed?

1) Overall height has decresed by 6".

This is from the bottom void being reduced to 8", and taking 2" from the main grow chamber. This should fit in any room I want to put it, as it will now have a minimum of 6" clearance with a standard 8ft ceiling.


2) Overall width has increased by 12".

This serves two purposes:

a) It increases the width of the vertical void.

This makes it easier to get to things. (NOTE: the red lines seen on the top view represent access doors, which will run the entire height of the void.

b) It increases the width of the two small grow spaces to: 32" (up from 24").

With the desire for 3 nursery flats to be able to fit in either small grow space, I was overthinking it too much. I was for some reason set on the door to those spaces being on the end. Door on front, make it longer, problem solved.

Combined with the 30" depth, that's 10" to work with for tray placement. Right on. :)



3) Bottom void no longer extends the full width of the cabinet. This allows for:

a) Taller ceilings on the small grow spaces (net increase of 3" each, after dropping the overall height 6")

b) See the green lines? Those are where I plan to make the cabinet come apart. Now it will fit through any door, and be able to be easier moved if needed. The bottom void separates, and the small grow spaces separate. So it ends up in 3 pieces. Main grow/vertical void sits on top of the bottom void. Small grow spaces then attach.


This shouldn't have an impact on what I wanted to do with the bottom void at all, and honestly works out pretty well I think. Ventilation intake/exhaust will still work as planned, still have plenty of room for plumbing, and makes it way easier to "slice up" so it can come apart and be moved.

Now for a little more fun, eh?

See, another thing with moving the void is it now would allow me to experiment with hempy/dutch buckets. How so?

Well, the big thing with that is the res has to be below the buckets. I can put the buckets in the main chamber on a small riser of say, 6". That still gives a decent height of 76" in the main space, and I can then run through the vertical void over to a res in the small grow space. It's crazy enough, it just might work.

(Remember, this cabinet would effectively be my backup grow, and allow me to experiment and tinker too.)

If I do the vertical void right, I could put changeable panels in the lower part of it, and swap around as needed. :D



Now what I haven't quite figured out is how I would put together an RDWC run. Specifically, where I could place the res. In this fashion, I "think" this is where I may scrap the door between the electrical/controller sections of the vertical void. This is assuming I'm using the lower of the smaller grow spaces. If not, I can do same as above, and even have a little larger res if I wanted to do so. :)

If that space is in use, the new width should allow for a res, but definitely wouldn't be able to have 3 sections in the void. Obviously the exhaust needs to be isolated, but the other two not as much I guess. If I really think I need the isolation between them, I can add a horizontal shelf around 2' up from the void floor, and it would effectively become the floor for the 2 remaining voids. Not like those spaces need to be the full height of the void to begin with, although it would make it easier to replace the carbon filter as needed. I would say it could be possible to place an access door on the back, but if it's up against a wall and full of gear, it would be a pain in the ass to have to move it out to replace the filter. Maybe I could come up with an easier connection system for it. Maybe use PVC and male/female threaded connections. Still, in the end, probably not as simple as unscrewing a pipe clamp once a year.



Note to self: Need to figure out a way to bypass carbon filter so it's not wasted when the air isn't stinky. May need to figure up a dual fan system. One for filtered air, one for not. Would also extend the life of the filters, too.
 

Old Salt

Member of the Month: Apr 2019
How air you going to get fresh air into the small grow spaces?

The electrics, and controllers, could be mounted on a recessed panel or door at the front of the cabinet, eliminating the need for a separate space. this space could be used as a fresh air plenum for the two small grow spaces.
 
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