MVortex's Perpetual Thread For A 4x4 Tent & RDWC

[multiVortex]

Shit, it would be nice if I could get close to that delta.

You can get there. Venting to the garage is a going to be a good start.

Too bad there isn't a can light you could take out and pump it up and out through the attic.

If my exhaust mod keeps my room the same as the house I would be around 79 F inside the tent. I don't think I can get the flower colors I want with the high temps and high temp swings.

I've been letting mine slip into the upper 60's at night, thinking about dropping the HVAC down a degree at night to help that along a little more.

 

[Brett Blaze]

You can get there. Venting to the garage is a going to be a good start.

Too bad there isn't a can light you could take out and pump it up and out through the attic.







I've been letting mine slip into the upper 60's at night, thinking about dropping the HVAC down a degree at night to help that along a little more.

There's a ceiling fan but that's pretty much a necessity out here. One plan I had was to remove the ceiling fan so I could raise the tent a foot. By doing so this would allow for a hole for the vent but I decided I get a lower profile ceiling fan and raise the tent because I have 10' ceilings. Also the access to the attic is very inconvenient because the attic is not really designed to be used. It's always f'n hot. Hell if I passed out up there I would never be found. Damn I'm getting stressed just thinking about going into the attic. Friggin dope!

 

[multiVortex]

There's a ceiling fan but that's pretty much a necessity out here. One plan I had was to remove the ceiling fan so I could raise the tent a foot. By doing so this would allow for a hole for the vent but I decided I get a lower profile ceiling fan and raise the tent because I have 10' ceilings. Also the access to the attic is very inconvenient because the attic is not really designed to be used. It's always f'n hot. Hell if I passed out up there I would never be found. Damn I'm getting stressed just thinking about going into the attic. Friggin dope!

Right, right. I remember the discussion about hobbies and holes in walls, ceilings, etc. lol

But would you like a new can light somewhere?

Well, when you're done with the hole anyway!


Really though, no matter where you are (maybe not Hawaii, lol) you're going to have environmental challenges one way or another. Some are easier to overcome than others.

I'll probably shut my RDWC down after this grow finishes up in a couple months. I'm going to do another auto run in the other tent, which should finish up in June, so not too far into AC season. Although it will be my luck that the furnace comes off the end of April and the AC on the beginning of May with no spring in between. (Happened two years ago, with about a 10-day break between heat off and AC on.)

After that run, I may run a single plant in the 3x3 with the blurple light, provided it does alright with the GDP. This would be just to have a run still going. Might be a good spot for another run at the Mexican Airlines or something. Will have to see how it all plays out. I could also run 2 plants in the other 4x4 with just one light running.

Will most likely fire up the RDWC again in mid to late September.

 

[multiVortex]

Something I forgot to mention, and I'm keeping an eye on.

I'm not sure what happened, but Wednesday I was in the middle of work and couldn't get down to the garden to check when everything came on at 11a. By the time was able to give a quick look it was close to 2p, and....

the fecking lights were off on the RDWC.


Of course I flipped for a minute, and then figured out the deal. The light rig had power. Next, check the controller. It wouldn't "wake up." Normally it wakes up when you touch the screen, and shows you a general overview of what is on, intensity, on/off times, etc. Then if you touch again, it makes you do a swipe to "unlock" the screen and go to the main menu.

Nothing. It wouldn't wake up. So I unplugged it, waited 30 seconds, and plugged it back in. Up it came and on went the lights. Needless to say, starting yesterday I will be sneaking into the garden area a few minutes before 11a, making sure the controller wakes up, and then making sure the lights come on.

Not really sure what happened or why, but you know how it goes. If I have a problem with it again I will cut the controller out and just run the light without it. It only has 40/60/80/100 percent options on the dimming knob, but that's fine. Those all fall in line with what I've been running at one time or another anyway.

So why the controller then?

a) I like gadgets and toys.

b) I like the sunrise/sunset simulation it does. Wish it spread it a bit more, but starts at like 30%, and raises to set intensity from there over the course of 20 minutes. Reverse that for the sunset routine.

 

[Pennywise]

Shouldn’t hurt anything for just a few hours. I’ve had power go out and nothing bad happened.

 

[multiVortex]

Yeah, I wasn't overly concerned about a little extra dark time. Now extra light? That would have sucked.

It was concerning that the controller froze more than anything. At least it was on the start and not end. Maybe it was just lonely as it hadn't been looked at for a few days. I dunno. Keeping an eye on it though. Not sure about the warranty on it, but the card I used to buy it has an extended warranty benefit, so that would make it at least 2 years, if not more.

 

[PCaddict]

On the mechanical timers is up on or is down on I have trouble every time I mess with it that and setting it to the right time so far as the time of day to correspond with the timer

 

[multiVortex]

On mine, the tabs being pushed down means "on".

With one exception, the only thing I'm using mechanical timers for are (or were) to keep heaters on a schedule.

I put a timer into the socket, then plug a temp controller (like for a heat mat, but double check how many watts/amps it can take) into the timer and set it for the desired temp. From there, I plug a space heater into the controller.

End result is that during the time I specify, the controller is powered up and then turns the heater on/off as needed.

Why the timer?

I want lower temps at night. So I run a second setup that is like the above, but set to a lower temp. The bigger heater is a vornado 375/750, and I use it during the day. The smaller one is a Lasko 101 that is 200w, and I use that overnight to keep the temps at a minimum level.

My Lab tent has the second heater turned off now, and I'm letting temps dip down to about 66F overnight. With being mid to late flower in there, depending on the plant, I'm fine with temps in the 60's at night. Even preferred, really. As long as it's over 60F at night, I'm not worried.

The RDWC has only 1 heater, but the temp on it is set to 70F and only comes on at night. During the day the light rig is keeping the tent around 80F, so don't need the heater. I had two set up in there, but needed the small heater for the Dev Lab (3rd) tent in the 3x3 space. So took that out and put it in there, then set the bigger heater to 70F. Wasn't a hard choice since the heater wasn't coming on during the day anyway.

As some may recall, the exhaust on this tent is backwards. At least for now. Later in flower may be a different story. But for now the exhaust is sucking out a bottom duct port (on the right) and I have 2 passive intake trunks (6" ducting) coming in through two different duct ports at the top. I did this for a few reasons.

First, it was a super short run from the bottom duct to the fan; less than 2ft total run.

Second, I wanted to use the heat from the light to heat up the tent. (Mission accomplished.)

Third, in order to pull from the top, I would have to get creative with the intake. That meant either using a trunk down to the floor (which would suck and take up canopy space), or building a light trap and trying to use the passive intake on the tent. Neither of which were exactly a stellar option when I was laying it all out.

As the temps are good during the day from the light (for this run, at least), I'm happy with the backwards setup. I may improve/adapt/redo it at some point, but it's good for now.

If I were smart, I'd probably be doing that on the other tent, too. Why not use the little bit of heat from the lights instead of a heater? Makes sense to me.

 

[PCaddict]

Thank You now if I have to drop the time down from 12/12 I will know how to set it. Your set up sounds good. I would Love to be able to take my tent to the basement and use it for seedlings and Veg and set the bedroom up as a flower room. Lots of work getting set up to do it and I cant do it till it warms up so I can clean our garages then the basement and then the room but that is my long term plan for this summer.

 

[Hyena Merica]

On mine, the tabs being pushed down means "on".

With one exception, the only thing I'm using mechanical timers for are (or were) to keep heaters on a schedule.

I put a timer into the socket, then plug a temp controller (like for a heat mat, but double check how many watts/amps it can take) into the timer and set it for the desired temp. From there, I plug a space heater into the controller.

End result is that during the time I specify, the controller is powered up and then turns the heater on/off as needed.

Why the timer?

I want lower temps at night. So I run a second setup that is like the above, but set to a lower temp. The bigger heater is a vornado 375/750, and I use it during the day. The smaller one is a Lasko 101 that is 200w, and I use that overnight to keep the temps at a minimum level.

My Lab tent has the second heater turned off now, and I'm letting temps dip down to about 66F overnight. With being mid to late flower in there, depending on the plant, I'm fine with temps in the 60's at night. Even preferred, really. As long as it's over 60F at night, I'm not worried.

The RDWC has only 1 heater, but the temp on it is set to 70F and only comes on at night. During the day the light rig is keeping the tent around 80F, so don't need the heater. I had two set up in there, but needed the small heater for the Dev Lab (3rd) tent in the 3x3 space. So took that out and put it in there, then set the bigger heater to 70F. Wasn't a hard choice since the heater wasn't coming on during the day anyway.

As some may recall, the exhaust on this tent is backwards. At least for now. Later in flower may be a different story. But for now the exhaust is sucking out a bottom duct port (on the right) and I have 2 passive intake trunks (6" ducting) coming in through two different duct ports at the top. I did this for a few reasons.

First, it was a super short run from the bottom duct to the fan; less than 2ft total run.

Second, I wanted to use the heat from the light to heat up the tent. (Mission accomplished.)

Third, in order to pull from the top, I would have to get creative with the intake. That meant either using a trunk down to the floor (which would suck and take up canopy space), or building a light trap and trying to use the passive intake on the tent. Neither of which were exactly a stellar option when I was laying it all out.

As the temps are good during the day from the light (for this run, at least), I'm happy with the backwards setup. I may improve/adapt/redo it at some point, but it's good for now.

If I were smart, I'd probably be doing that on the other tent, too. Why not use the little bit of heat from the lights instead of a heater? Makes sense to me.

I think you'll find that every setup will require four distinct temperature adjustments...Spring, Fall, Summer, and Winter. I have been surprised how much they vary even though they are all inside a house. At this point I literally do my environmentals in 3-month increments, with a different combination of variables each time (fans, A/C, external heat, heat from lights, reservoir cooler, humidifier). But as long as everything stays in a reasonable range you're golden.

The good news is you only have to figure out everything once. And the bad news is that takes a year.

Peace, Hyena

 

[multiVortex]

I think you'll find that every setup will require four distinct temperature adjustments...Spring, Fall, Summer, and Winter. I have been surprised how much they vary even though they are all inside a house. At this point I literally do my environmentals in 3-month increments, with a different combination of variables each time (fans, A/C, external heat, heat from lights, reservoir cooler, humidifier). But as long as everything stays in a reasonable range you're golden.

The good news is you only have to figure out everything once. And the bad news is that takes a year.

Peace, Hyena

Amen to that. Which is also another reason I'm slowing it down over the summer.

 

[multiVortex]

Today is???


Saturday. Duh. Thanks for playing




That also means it's res change day!

We flipped 6 days ago, (Monday, 1/27) and that makes today day 6.

For this week I'm taking out the botanicare calmag and the Protekt silica. Wait, wut? I've started seeing a bit of nitrogen saturation with the other girls, and with calmag and its nitrogen I would like to hold it off if possible. But fear not, for I have a plan.

I'll be using instead a little balance. First, I'll be using 10% tap water in the mix. So there's a little calmag from that. Plus I'll be using True Plant Science Organic Cal-Mag instead. Why? It has zero nitrogen in it. I will also be upping the dose of MegaCrop from 6.25 to 6.5 grams per gallon.

It's all mixed up, been pH'd (started at 6.4, and I dropped it to 6.2ish) and is now being circulated in the barrel. It's been in the mix stabilization mode for almost an hour, so it's about time to drain and fill. Right after a chicken wing late lunch.

Once I'm all swapped out, it will be time for a quick tuck check on at least the Durban Poison, and I'll also snap some pics.

 

[multiVortex]

OK, so pics didn't happen. Yesterday was a cluster getting ready for company. Barely had time to think let alone anything else. I did get down and get some weaving done, and also took a few fans off the DP to try and keep her stretch in check.

My EC may be a hair high. Looks like the pH swing is trending down, along with the water level (a tick, not a ton), but the EC is pretty much steady. No bueno, and my plan for later today (first chance I'll have) will be to pull out about 10gal of water and replace with straight RO.

The plants look fine, pH isn't bottoming out, but in 2 days it went from 6.2 down to the 5.7 mark. The handy dandy chart recommends lowering EC, so that's what I'll roll with. Not a lot, but a small amount. Maybe 10% to start, give or take. Going from 1.82EC down to 1.65EC (1280 and 1157 PPM, respectively.)

Provided my math is right, anyway, that's about where we should end up. Not going to bother with a pH on the RO, as it's pH won't swing the main mix up much. An uptick is desired though, so we'll see where it comes out and go from there.

In the short term I did add 10ml of UP to try and help it out a bit.

Quite the odd deal, especially after the battles of keeping it up.

Feckin plants!

 

[Pennywise]

Seems they have a mind of their own.

 

[multiVortex]

And then some!

They look fine, but I'll take the hint from the parameters and head it off at the pass.

"I hate that cliché!" -Hedley Lamar

 

[Pennywise]

That chart you have hasn’t failed me yet. It’s saved me a few times running RDWC.

 

[multiVortex]

It seems to be well thought of around here, and saved a lot of folks.

Just have to work the numbers again to make sure the math works out (it should, I've run it a few times) and then get a chance to get into the garden and get it done. (Shouldn't take 10 minutes, but getting that 10 minutes is a chore today.)

 

[Pennywise]

I here you, just changed the water on the BH7 cuttings so I’m done for today.

 

[multiVortex]

Managed to squeeze in 10 minutes a little earlier than planned.

Well, not squeezed. I just said fuck it, put other stuff aside for a bit, and got it done. Took out 10gal, and replaced with RO. Should drop the EC to 1.67ish, or for PPM, 1172. I was off a hair on my original math, as the EC was just a tick higher at 1.85 vice the 1.82 I used for math previously. Either way, the RO is mixing in, and EC is coming back up from the initial splash of RO into the res.

How did I figure up the dilution rate?

I did it a couple of times to narrow it down to where I was happy with the adjustment. Effectively:

1) I took the original measurement in PPM (1300), and multiplied by the % of the volume that would remain (90%).

2) I took the original measurement in PPM for my RO water, and multiplied that by the % of the volume it would replace (10%).

3) Added those numbers together, then divided by 100.

I expect to be a couple off from that estimate, as I wasn't precise down to the drop of water removed/replaced. It was the same amount out and in, I just used a quart pitcher to pull it out, and filled the bucket an inch from the top. If the math was right, and it should be (close enough, anyway) fine, then that should pull it back about 1/2g/gal. If I had not just changed the water Saturday, I would have just done a full res change. As the EC has been steady or on a very slight rise, that tells me the mix wasn't being eaten up and just water being drank. Either way, I'll be keeping an eye on the meter for the next couple of hours, and always eyes on plants.

Next break will be spent in the Lab, and putting a few plants on risers.

 

[multiVortex]

I think we're good for the evening. The pH is 6.2, with the EC sitting at 1.65 (1157ppm). I'll know in the morning if the girls are happy or not. They seem fine for the moment, so hopefully I got ahead of it before anything became an issue.