My First Grow - Is This Normal?

How do you calibrate a trucheon stick?
Also I have been recalibrate every other test/day and I'll start with .PH4 buffer solution and it'll read either 4.0/4.1 calibrated. soft wipe with clean paper towel and dip into clean freshly added water swirling for a min or so. Then wipe again with another clean paper towel then use .ph7 buffer solution and it'll read 7.1 rarely 7 and then press calibrate button and I can also do a 3 point once I but .ph10. I have removed the solution that came with the .ph pen as it was reading 6.2. And used the storage solution I have .ph1 to strip what ever salts are left behind.
Also I have noticed the res tank half empty from 2days and the old growth looki .ng healthy green.
New growth is appearing slowly but not as yellow but the last lot of new growth the ones before I pulled have a ill burn on the tips.
So where I'd pulled all the effected leaves of buds will still grow from them places correct?
Otherwise I'll be lucky to get an Oz dry from all four. Hope it's worth all the costs so far.
But need to get this second light but as I'll be going on holiday end August I will not be able to attend them. So as soon as I get back I'll be buying 1 a.s.a.p as I could of killed 2 and thrown them in 4was into flower which would of legged for 3-4wks. Any advice on a good decent not so hot veg light as I'm over whelmed with the choices but not so sure on types to suit a 60cmx60x80-100 veg box with no extraction fan just an oscilating fan to strengthen them stems.

Pics as follows....
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T5's now are they the 1's where it has 3 4 tubes about £60-70 GBP!
How will three of these fit in a 60cm box??

What do you know! or can tell me about males in hydro transferring to the great outdoors via soil??? please

Some pictures of Big Bud, as i'm sure its a male but really need a more experienced grower to confirm it for me, As it it is what i believe to be i don't wanna cull it but would prefer to put him in my Greenhouse out the back.
I no i'll need to clean everything first but this will be the plan, Now will it go back to Veg? as it is the end of June but rather dullish tho. As i heard they flower around about the September period.,..Any thing would be great as i no your an hydroponic grower like myself. Thanks

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It may just be the smaller buds/leaves the start of!!! Or worst case a Male....May be a lil to early to tell yet but could not grab most of the sick leaves as some have been to small for me to pull the leaves of, But most of them are all gone apart from the smaller leaves i could not grab.

PS, sorry about the pictures will be more patient when taking pic next and will use the Digi cam and not my phone GS3.
:peace:
Sick leaves Pullin them of the planr, now i asume were the leaf node once was is where the buds come from correct? Now by pulling these leaves will the buds still come through just as if the leaf were there??
 
WRONG!! Hehe. put your ggoggle on
Hydrofarm FLT52 24-Inch T5 Single Fluorescent Fixture with Tube


T5 Fluorescent Fixture with Tube, 24 inches here's what you're looking for, if your wanna find a place in UK for shipping costs...

But I say get your Hydro Shop and tell them you're growing LETTUCE inside and you want some single High Output T5's for light augmentation.
 
As far a ripping your male out, I say just pull it out of the hydrotone, and set it outside in the dirt. Do you have it in a grow block? If you want it to live you can be careful with it, but if not, put it in the compost heap and turn it under.

To make it live, it's just like transplanting anything. Lots of B12, water, love and tenderness and the best soil you can reasonably afford. It's a male so there's less worry about potency and yield here, but just be careful with the roots, because every root you break off will stunt your boy's growth that much more as the plant tries to replace them.

From what I see of the pics, I kinda see male flowers, but I'm also seeing what looks like female flowers, so I'm at a loss... take some macro shots and post them if you can... as clearly focused as possible and the closer the better.
 
As far a ripping your male out, I say just pull it out of the hydrotone, and set it outside in the dirt. Do you have it in a grow block? If you want it to live you can be careful with it, but if not, put it in the compost heap and turn it under.

To make it live, it's just like transplanting anything. Lots of B12, water, love and tenderness and the best soil you can reasonably afford. It's a male so there's less worry about potency and yield here, but just be careful with the roots, because every root you break off will stunt your boy's growth that much more as the plant tries to replace them.

From what I see of the pics, I kinda see male flowers, but I'm also seeing what looks like female flowers, so I'm at a loss... take some macro shots and post them if you can... as clearly focused as possible and the closer the better.

So!!! growing just for the seeds! now will they be just like as the 1's i bought regular? any info would be great. Specially if the seeds can produce females as i heard the Big Bud produces a good yield once grown properly lol. I'll get there, Plants are just testing me o see if i deserve there beautiful rewards...

So moment of truth because i was puzzled by your reply lol, but think it is because i can see oval balls near the stems.....
Take a look please
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would love to hear your opinion as it is much appreciated as without an experienced growers view on these things, think i'd have made the typical newbie mistake and separated him from the females.

If he does turn out to be a male !!? And i plan on keeping him I think it will re-veg back giving it enough time get get bigger!
Any idea's on re-vegging before September?
:thanks: once agian
 
These are beautiful macros!! And all male, I'm afraid. If you have a Female of the same strain, you can selectively pollinate her and get about 100 regular seeds to play with later.

Isolate him from the females or he will pollinate your entire crop. Collect the pollen, and "paint" it onto the lower buds of your females within 2 days of pollen collection. After 20 minutes Give all the buds pollinated, a good spray with pure water to kill any pollen left unused, and wash it off the plant.

In about 3-6 weeks, those lower buds will be popping with seeds to be collected.

Alternatively, When your male starts to open his flowers, you can select a "Mommy" and get Male and Female a room for the night. Place them both together with a fan blowing from him to her. In the morning take her out, and give her a shower to wash up. Literally... a shower... as in put her in the shower and turn it on cold only. Take care not to wash the topsoil out of the pot though... While the new mommy is getting cleaned up, you go get a change of clothes, and throw your clothes you wore to get "Mommy" into the washer, and then shower as well. This will help keep from getting stray pollen into your flower room.

When all is clean, take the new mommy back to her girlfriends and let her gossip and grow those seeds.
 
These are beautiful macros!! And all male, I'm afraid. If you have a Female of the same strain, you can selectively pollinate her and get about 100 regular seeds to play with later.

Isolate him from the females or he will pollinate your entire crop. Collect the pollen, and "paint" it onto the lower buds of your females within 2 days of pollen collection. After 20 minutes Give all the buds pollinated, a good spray with pure water to kill any pollen left unused, and wash it off the plant.

In about 3-6 weeks, those lower buds will be popping with seeds to be collected.

Alternatively, When your male starts to open his flowers, you can select a "Mommy" and get Male and Female a room for the night. Place them both together with a fan blowing from him to her. In the morning take her out, and give her a shower to wash up. Literally... a shower... as in put her in the shower and turn it on cold only. Take care not to wash the topsoil out of the pot though... While the new mommy is getting cleaned up, you go get a change of clothes, and throw your clothes you wore to get "Mommy" into the washer, and then shower as well. This will help keep from getting stray pollen into your flower room.

When all is clean, take the new mommy back to her girlfriends and let her gossip and grow those seeds.
Thanks for the comment, I was taking pistures and i was to far away and remembered what you said get right up close so i did :high-five: :thanks:,
Thanks for confirming what i thought and no mistaking those oval shaped buds, So i will remove it today and transplant it,
So about him pollinating the same female which i don't have. So basically then when a male shows its sex and doesn't pollinate a male thus stopping the circle of life what becomes of a single male left to seed/bud!!!! Are these seeds useless then????
 
Thanks for the comment, I was taking pistures and i was to far away and remembered what you said get right up close so i did :high-five: :thanks:,
Thanks for confirming what i thought and no mistaking those oval shaped buds, So i will remove it today and transplant it,
So about him pollinating the same female which i don't have. So basically then when a male shows its sex and doesn't pollinate a male thus stopping the circle of life what becomes of a single male left to seed/bud!!!! Are these seeds useless then????

A male cannot pollinate a male- only a female. This is why it is isolated from the females, otherwise it will seed your entire crop. A male cannot pollinate itself, for obvious reasons as well. A female (same strain or a different strain) must be introduced to Mr. Balls so he can *poof* his love powder all over her. If no female is present, then all that pollen ends up dead babies in the floor, on the walls, the ceiling, and everywhere else his pollen can float. Turn on the black light and it'll look like a Jackson Pollock painting exploded in the room. That or Mr. Bean has been painting with explosives again... The only way to ensure that this doesn't happen is put him in a room in which the air is ABSOLUTELY and COMPLETELY still, which is highly unlikely, or to set him outside, and let him relieve himself on the lawn.
 
jandre2k3 said:
A male cannot pollinate a male- only a female. This is why it is isolated from the females, otherwise it will seed your entire crop. A male cannot pollinate itself, for obvious reasons as well. A female (same strain or a different strain) must be introduced to Mr. Balls so he can *poof* his love powder all over her. If no female is present, then all that pollen ends up dead babies in the floor, on the walls, the ceiling, and everywhere else his pollen can float. Turn on the black light and it'll look like a Jackson Pollock painting exploded in the room. That or Mr. Bean has been painting with explosives again... The only way to ensure that this doesn't happen is put him in a room in which the air is ABSOLUTELY and COMPLETELY still, which is highly unlikely, or to set him outside, and let him relieve himself on the lawn.

So a male growing on it's own will have viable worthless seeds then.


Cleaning after a recent PH issue (Id done it soon as I realised). But it's been 11days since the last 1 and .ph is dropping to much. Any advice on cleaning the pots properly but safely.....????

Flower day 13. Do I continue with transition phase schedule or go straight to week 3 Just Bloom @.EC 21???? As I was thinking about the stunted growth and stuff like transition phase being prolonged or does this not matter thanks you have been a great help.

Ps. hope you win M.O.T.M you so deserve it ;-)
 
So a male growing on it's own will have viable worthless seeds then.


Cleaning after a recent PH issue (Id done it soon as I realised). But it's been 11days since the last 1 and .ph is dropping to much. Any advice on cleaning the pots properly but safely.....????

Flower day 13. Do I continue with transition phase schedule or go straight to week 3 Just Bloom @.EC 21???? As I was thinking about the stunted growth and stuff like transition phase being prolonged or does this not matter thanks you have been a great help.

Ps. hope you win M.O.T.M you so deserve it ;-)

A male growing on its own WILL NOT HAVE SEEDS. Only a female may produce seeds and only after a male or a hermied female pollinates her. If pollinated by a male, it will be regular seeds. If pollinated by a female that hermied they will be feminized seeds.

What do you mean "Cleaning after pH issue"?

After the two week transition nutrients, switch to full bloom nutrients schedule. Do a FULL FLUSH to remove any residual salts in the pots and in the system. 3xvolume of pots, and drain to waste. Clean, sanitize, and reset with freah Bloom nutes.

:cheesygrinsmiley: Hey! Thanks for the vote in MOTM!
 
jandre2k3 said:
A male growing on its own WILL NOT HAVE SEEDS. Only a female may produce seeds and only after a male or a hermied female pollinates her. If pollinated by a male, it will be regular seeds. If pollinated by a female that hermied they will be feminized seeds.

What do you mean "Cleaning after pH issue"?

After the two week transition nutrients, switch to full bloom nutrients schedule. Do a FULL FLUSH to remove any residual salts in the pots and in the system. 3xvolume of pots, and drain to waste. Clean, sanitize, and reset with freah Bloom nutes.

:cheesygrinsmiley: Hey! Thanks for the vote in MOTM!

Ok I see now thanks, I meant when I had the .ph issue and cleaned reservoir and flushed with fresh water that was all I'd done! Now was I suppose to clean pots with a sanitizer like you mentioned?
.ph pen problems. So I'd calibrate every other day and rinse in a fresh water cup then dry it and rinse in second cup.
Now when I went to calibrate the new pen i'd noticed it wasn't detecting the buffer as usual it was a whole 1.0 under .ph buffer 4. So I panicked and I had to use the .ph test die but it is not accurate.
Suggestions to what may have happened.......
Maybe be where the cup is contaminated and when left over night to swill of in pure clean water.
Or when I left it over night in the storage solution and whatever was in the cap of .ph pen had dried out(.ph 6.4 it would read?) So I squirted storage solution in the .ph pen cap.
I'd ran it under running water for 10mins or so and started reading 7.3 which is roughly my areas water ph.
Open to all suggestions on what went wrong.
In future I will rinse under running water until .ph is reading what my local area is. Thank you

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:cheesygrinsmiley: Hey! Thanks for the vote in MOTM![/QUOTE]

No Probes dude, Just my opinion and so deserve all the help and advice and also encouragement which is so reassuring at times and I see your name all most every where giving out the best advice one could possibly give. Got my fingers crossed..........It's a close 1. Every 1 In the race all deserve to win.
Good Luck
Thanks

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Ok I see now thanks, I meant when I had the .ph issue and cleaned reservoir and flushed with fresh water that was all I'd done! Now was I suppose to clean pots with a sanitizer like you mentioned?
.ph pen problems. So I'd calibrate every other day and rinse in a fresh water cup then dry it and rinse in second cup.
Now when I went to calibrate the new pen i'd noticed it wasn't detecting the buffer as usual it was a whole 1.0 under .ph buffer 4. So I panicked and I had to use the .ph test die but it is not accurate.
Suggestions to what may have happened.......
Maybe be where the cup is contaminated and when left over night to swill of in pure clean water.
Or when I left it over night in the storage solution and whatever was in the cap of .ph pen had dried out(.ph 6.4 it would read?) So I squirted storage solution in the .ph pen cap.
I'd ran it under running water for 10mins or so and started reading 7.3 which is roughly my areas water ph.
Open to all suggestions on what went wrong.
In future I will rinse under running water until .ph is reading what my local area is. Thank you

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I would read up on calibration and make absolutely sure you follow each step as it is in the book.. I mean literally, read step 1, do step 1, read step 2, do step 2, and so on. Don't try to do it all after reading it all... go step-by-step to make sure it's done right.
 
jandre2k3 said:
What do you mean, "the top"? It could be storage buffer.

Always, always, always calibrate a new pen. Fully read your directions to fully understand the readings the meter gives. For the first several uses, test once, rinse in tap water, test again. For pH the readings should be within 0.1 of each other. For EC the two readings should be within 0.01 of each other.

I always store mine in pH 7 buffer in the cap, but yours may not have the space to do this. It is just best not to ever let your probe dry out...ever. So if it is an open-tipped probe, get a 2 fl oz shot glass, pour pH 7 buffer to fill 1/2 full and place pen into the solution and both of those in a zipper storage bag, leaving the electronic part to the open air, to keep the solution from evaporating.

Had to go back a few pages at to not repeat myself lol.
Ok so it must of been buffer solution in the ph cap that dried out, that I put storage solution in!! So I think I should run tap water over cap and clean the sponge then put buffer 7.ph in cap how it was.
As I Need this to be right and no more hic ups (strange how my first grow had no problems).

So how often should I use the storage solution?
If buffer 7.ph is in the cap then the pen will be set at neutral thus abling me to calibrate a.s.a.p thanks for that as this sounds easier and of course most of allmakes sense.

Last night's observations .ph pen once I rinsed it was reading correctly! Local water.
So I calibrate buffer 7.ph ok all was good there but when I calibrated at 4.ph it was out by .6 but the ph die confirmed the ph pen was in range when I double checked the reservoir. (dodgy I no).
So when I use any of the buffers I Never pour back into the bottle.. But have left it in the open air, now is this ok to use again? Or stop being tight and do it properly.
How often do I use buffer 4.ph?
It is a 3point calibrate ph pen.
Stressing me now lol

See now in the beginning I didn't need to go into GR every day! Say 2-3days, but my first grow I was OBSESSED LOL;-)
How often you advice to check ph?
And when is best? as I heard not to at night and obviously when lights on before first feed!! But do check say the last 2 feeds before lights of?

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Had to go back a few pages at to not repeat myself lol.
Ok so it must of been buffer solution in the ph cap that dried out, that I put storage solution in!! So I think I should run tap water over cap and clean the sponge then put buffer 7.ph in cap how it was.
As I Need this to be right and no more hic ups (strange how my first grow had no problems).

So how often should I use the storage solution?
If buffer 7.ph is in the cap then the pen will be set at neutral thus abling me to calibrate a.s.a.p thanks for that as this sounds easier and of course most of allmakes sense.

Last night's observations .ph pen once I rinsed it was reading correctly! Local water.
So I calibrate buffer 7.ph ok all was good there but when I calibrated at 4.ph it was out by .6 but the ph die confirmed the ph pen was in range when I double checked the reservoir. (dodgy I no).
So when I use any of the buffers I Never pour back into the bottle.. But have left it in the open air, now is this ok to use again? Or stop being tight and do it properly.
How often do I use buffer 4.ph?
It is a 3point calibrate ph pen.
Stressing me now lol

See now in the beginning I didn't need to go into GR every day! Say 2-3days, but my first grow I was OBSESSED LOL;-)
How often you advice to check ph?
And when is best? as I heard not to at night and obviously when lights on before first feed!! But do check say the last 2 feeds before lights of?

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Okay, if you have 3-point calibration, use all three to calibrate. I'm assuming you do the 7.01 first, then the other two. But run the 3-point calibration every other time you use it. Be sure to follow the manual as to which is first, then second, then third, and use the 3-point EVERY TIME you calibrate. I like to check it just in case in the 7.01 cal fluid to see if it needs calibration before I actually calibrate. Mine is only calibrated with the 7 so I don't need the other two.

I use just tap water to store mine, but my tap EC is 0.08. VERY low for tap water and I read 7.0 pH on my tap water. I wouldn't recommend anyone else do this unless you have very pure tap water. Before I realized that my kitchen tap was so pure, I used the 7.01 calibration fluid to store my pen- right in the cap. But mine seals water tight. Of course, now I just put the cap on, wet from last use in the res. This may be a bad practice, but I've gotten used to this pen's little quirks, so I'm fine with it. I do rinse it with pure water and shake off access before testing in the 7 Cal fluid. If it's off, I turn the little screw inside and set it back to 7.0.

Once used, calibration fluids should be tossed. They pick up contaminants from your tap water and/or nutrient solution that is on the pen when you calibrate. Even if your probe is dry when you calibrate, the residue of those is dissolved into the cal fluid and will soon be off, and therefore not accurate for calibration purposes.

You should be using the 3 Calibration fluids specified in your manual to calibrate your pen. These have been specifically designed for your pen... or visa versa... and any other fluids might not give the correct calibration point. Bite the bullet and spend the 3 pence more.
 
jandre2k3 said:
Okay, if you have 3-point calibration, use all three to calibrate. I'm assuming you do the 7.01 first, then the other two. But run the 3-point calibration every other time you use it. Be sure to follow the manual as to which is first, then second, then third, and use the 3-point EVERY TIME you calibrate. I like to check it just in case in the 7.01 cal fluid to see if it needs calibration before I actually calibrate. Mine is only calibrated with the 7 so I don't need the other two.

I use just tap water to store mine, but my tap EC is 0.08. VERY low for tap water and I read 7.0 pH on my tap water. I wouldn't recommend anyone else do this unless you have very pure tap water. Before I realized that my kitchen tap was so pure, I used the 7.01 calibration fluid to store my pen- right in the cap. But mine seals water tight. Of course, now I just put the cap on, wet from last use in the res. This may be a bad practice, but I've gotten used to this pen's little quirks, so I'm fine with it. I do rinse it with pure water and shake off access before testing in the 7 Cal fluid. If it's off, I turn the little screw inside and set it back to 7.0.

Once used, calibration fluids should be tossed. They pick up contaminants from your tap water and/or nutrient solution that is on the pen when you calibrate. Even if your probe is dry when you calibrate, the residue of those is dissolved into the cal fluid and will soon be off, and therefore not accurate for calibration purposes.

You should be using the 3 Calibration fluids specified in your manual to calibrate your pen. These have been specifically designed for your pen... or visa versa... and any other fluids might not give the correct calibration point. Bite the bullet and spend the 3 pence more.


Well it has or had a buffer recognition and before it would read buffer7 straight away but now buffer 7 is reading at 4?. & buffer 4@ 1??.
I don't have the buffer 10.ph yet but it does say it is not completely accurate but may need to buy it to try to stabilize it. Some how or hope it will ready it automatically and may reset itself back.
Personal preference on different ph meters is that once the probe don't read the buffers it is raft where at least the trimmer ph meter one is still able to do a 3 point calibrate in theory thus testing to see how far it is on/out and adjusting accordingly but the auto cal pen are Shit pardon the French. Off to buy batterys to see u f I can save the first ph pen with the trimmer.

Going to send the new 1 back once I buy the ph buffer 10 either way i will need it if 7 neutral and the nutrient ph range is 4ph but the tap is just above 7 so I think I will need it.
But not happy tho and it may be busted.

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I never have liked the Auto Calibration meters. if the probe goes bad and you don't know it, it won't recognize the Cal fluids and then you're out a pen or WORSE, it will recognize the fluids, and calibrate wrong, and then your out PLANTS becaus you're setting the pH incorrectly in the res and your plants can't get the nutes they need.

I like the trimmer style, because I can adjust it myself and not worry about some chip trying to do it. I know the buffer is 7.01, so I set the trim to make the meter show 7.0, and I'm done.
 
jandre2k3 said:
I never have liked the Auto Calibration meters. if the probe goes bad and you don't know it, it won't recognize the Cal fluids and then you're out a pen or WORSE, it will recognize the fluids, and calibrate wrong, and then your out PLANTS becaus you're setting the pH incorrectly in the res and your plants can't get the nutes they need.

I like the trimmer style, because I can adjust it myself and not worry about some chip trying to do it. I know the buffer is 7.01, so I set the trim to make the meter show 7.0, and I'm done.

Yeah I know exactly what you mean, it's like the new ph pen I noticed that it would read say 5.6 but it's buffer 7 so I calibrate yes. Then I wash with Luke warm water(Now hot as I done this and it is bust) but it has an ATC Automatic temp compensation so this means that it doesn't matter what the temp is as I read this also as an effect on ph (Damn too late temp is busted?? I think)
Any way after I calibrate@7.ph buffer and rinsed it and then calibrate at buffer 4.ph and rinse it was reading below 6.ph local tap water and I no it is at least 7.3-.4 and my last resort will be to buy the buffer 10 and do the 3point as at times it recognizes tube buffer but not always.
Plan of action leave in storage solution for 5+hours and try for the final time otherwise I will need to phone the shop back and try get a new 1 or my money back.

Guess what! my old ph pen the 1 I said the display was half showing which dried out and was always left to dry out as I was unaware of the keeping and maintenance ph pens. But guess what I bought new battery's and the display is fine lol :). So I put it into the buffer 7. turned the trimer from 5.7.ph to 7.ph and calibrated @.7 rinsed and then tested @ buffer 4 it read 4.3 I was happy with that so tested my tap water and read 7.4 HAPPY DAYS :):). Been totally stressed I knew my reservoir was in range @ last night's end of the run and read 6.2 and will lower it a second after lights on as of the off/ lights out period.
Old ph pen 1 point! So is it possible to actually adjust after calibrate at buffer 7 then 4 &10, or is there no need??.
Ph range hydro. I understand that different nutrients have different optimum ph ranges like the one I am using which is on the bottle 5.8 & I was wondering that is it healthy to let the ph swing slightly as obviously it doesn't stay where we want it.

On average how long or how many days can the hydro system be left to run unattended before being put back into range??
How often before you have to adjust your ph range?
What is the BPN nutes you use the optimum ph level? And do you allow you reservoir ph to swing slightly?
Is it healthy to let it swing slightly from optimum level 5.8 ph to 6.2 to strengthen or what ever it does doing this.
I realizes that the PH is the single and the most important thing that needs to be Spot On and the PH Pen is the most important tool in GR and is the most essential thing in a GR that also needs to be looked after properly. As it is the last thing anyone wants.

Ps sorry for the bombardment of questions.

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Hydroponic nutrient rang is not exclusive to the nutrient maker.

The optimal range is 5.5 to 6.1 I've had success though at 5.2 to 5.5, but I wouldn't suggest staying that low for most cannabis plants. That was a singular instance, and that plant is now gone. I have left my res for 11 days with BPN and it was at 6.0 when I returned.

If you calibrate, there is no need to readjust.... that would ruin your calibration.

Glad you found that your other pen works!! This is good news indeed.
 
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