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My First Hydro Setup

KCCO 77

Well-Known Member
Accidentally added a double dose once, started to burn within hours. Good thing hydro reacts quickly going both ways. Can't repair the damage but sure can stop it.
Ya I guess I never really posted this because I’m high as a mofo lol(wake and bake)but if trying to bump certain elements you also have to look at you plant and cut certain things as well not to raise the ppm outside a usable range. When I’m trying to add cal and if my plants r showing no deficiency I cut back on my fortifier in order to bump cal and not raising ppm. My old faithful stain gets to much N on a regular feed regiment and when my leafs look like this
so dark green I can cut my Nitrogen 10% and add 10%of something else if needed not raising my ppm. I know I really don’t post the clearest and I hope I not confusing the shit out out of anything with my ramblings lol.
 

KCCO 77

Well-Known Member
So here is some art for you. I told you I can’t draw but I can build like a mofo.
This is the layout of a under current system minus the air pump.
these systems r good but more chances of leaks(more holes and external pump). This is the lay out of a top feed system.
This is how I run. Pros less chance of leaks (less holes and pump in res) and water fall effect and top feeds r good for young plants and seeds as you don’t have to manually water from the top when the roots have not hit the water in the buckets. Cons of top feed pumps in res will raise temps and more parts to clean. Note a pump can be run external on a top feed like this.
I found this on 420 somewhere so thanks to whoever posted it. Notice the chiller just feeds the res. The lines to and from the chiller can not exceed a certain length. The shorter they r the faster the chiller will work in turn give it a chance not to run continuously and turn off periodically.
 

higherthehigh

Well-Known Member
Do I need to put to top feed them?

Tell you what I will do, I will show you will the available bits and pieces I have up to now and I think you will be able to see if it's possible lol.

The tent door is always open so the air pump always has semi good air, I am moving it soon as this is just a temp tent, no idea what's been going on with these roots it's a nightmare at the moment.
 

KCCO 77

Well-Known Member
Do I need to put to top feed them?

Tell you what I will do, I will show you will the available bits and pieces I have up to now and I think you will be able to see if it's possible lol.

The tent door is always open so the air pump always has semi good air, I am moving it soon as this is just a temp tent, no idea what's been going on with these roots it's a nightmare at the moment.
Hey man ya that’s shit about those roots. Keep pounding them with liquid Oxygen. Maybe grab some Z7 or something else when that stuff runs out. You don’t need top feed at all it’s completely up to you. So you would do the under current setup. This is a simple and effective way to go that can keep you working outside the tent.
 

bluenoserjoe

Photo of the Month: May 2019
What gets me is they seem to look so good on the topside even with whats going on underneath. I would expect to see more signs of stress then they are showing. The liquid oxygen may be the key, but in what concentration? The old addage, less is more, holds very true for cannabis, maybe not in this case.
 

KCCO 77

Well-Known Member
I know those roots are really quite bad but I will keep going, I'm just wondering should I add more Liquid Oxygen to the water even though I won't be adding more water!

I'm going to try get another res tank tomorrow then I will buy some fleshy 1-1/2" pipe.

This was yesterday's photos.






Hey man plants r looking good. Have those spots stopped spreading?? The plants look good on the pic I can see. The liquid O2 I would keep it up as will deplete every 4 days or so even with no topping up with water. R those plants eating and drinking as they should be dropping the water level every 24 hr by now judging by their size. When you say fleshy pipe r you talking poly pipe. It’s black and is potable and comes off a roll??
 

Northern Hydro

Well-Known Member
Still see the air pump in the tent .

If that was my situation I would drain my tea completely and run z7 or hydroguard alone in ph’d water for 24 - 48.
Take the air pump out and place it away from the plants .. then after 24-48 recheck , drain , repeat and or feed.
In my experience the only things that cause root rot are bad nutes, not doing water changes frequently enough, light leaks, or pumping recycled air and not enough air into the water .
I don’t think it’s a total loss yet thou keep fighting !! :) good luck
 

higherthehigh

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, yeah I'm going to take a look at the roots today and put a few ml of Liquid Oxygen in to the both res pots so will grab some pictures buddy, I need to rethink the silver on the pots as it's a bit tricky to look at the roots but after my final home improvements are done I can get a screen up and rethink the whole idea.

I'm going to move the air pump today and place it on my window will where it's super cold but I'm wondering if I extended the air pump pipe would it affect the LPM at the stone, I was also thinking of adding a T piece on and add another pump to each pipe.
 

KCCO 77

Well-Known Member
So I have gone over your drawings and I hope I studied them hard enough, will this setup work?


I know I put the pump there but it may be easier fitting wise to move it closer to the res. In this pic you can see they put it by the res.

If you watch a few under current videos you can c the different configurations. I have never built a UC system but the ones I do c all use hard pvc pipe on the bottom. Your on the proper track now just try to figure out how you want to configure it for your needs. That pic above is a proper set up and if you can visualize it in a two bucket set up it will probably serve you well.
 

higherthehigh

Well-Known Member
I'm going to start 3 Cheese from Seedsman and start a coco grow in here, I must admit I have really missed coco!

I plan to germinate them and plant them in a jiffy pod till I manage to get some coco, I then will transplant into Canna Coco Professional Plus with Perlite at a ratio of 50/50%, I also plan to germinate for a good 4-6 weeks which means lots of time to prune and train as each plant will have a 40x60cm canopy, I will flip them to flower 3 weeks before I harvest these two current plants so then when they eventually go in the flowering tent I can give them a good trim, so I should get a harvest around the middle of December and then another harvest around January to the middle of February then I think that will do me till around September time.
 

KCCO 77

Well-Known Member
@bluenoserjoe Yeah they look okay but I have noticed the left plant is now cupping like N toxicity and the right has now brown spotty leaves, I am genuinely mind blown as I have never had these problems so I'm questioning whether or not to take clones from these to run in coco.
Could it be light to close?? Generally N toxicity is accompanied buy real dark green and almost waxy feeling leafs as well as burnt tips.Not always but generally they group together. I don’t c this in the pic but I’m using a I phone 5 with a scratched busted screen so I do miss lots in pics. . Dose your cal/mag add extra N?? I use Cali magic and it dose have added N in it.
 

KCCO 77

Well-Known Member
I'm so confused now lol so when I pump the water back out I do put the two returning pipes above the below pipe don't i?

I was planning to put the return pipe in the air space near the where the net pot sits so as if it's gravity fed.
Don’t b confused we r just working through the system layout. Keep in mind Under current systems pull the water from the res. Top feeds pump from the res there is a big difference in the two systems. That pump is what makes this system circulate. However if you t off in the middle of the two buckets and tie the pump in as I drew it you can put the return line in the air back to the res but the pumps is still running the system not gravity. Keep in mind you can put that pump anywhere on that return line. Whatever works best for you and your space.
 

higherthehigh

Well-Known Member
The light is at around 3ft away from the canopy turned up to 400w bud, but I have just checked the ph and ppm, I have a label over the level when filled, so they have used around 5mm so around a litre, oh was 6.3 and ppm was 570.

Roots were 23c again and froth at the sides so really not good, I will have to buy a chilled and these parts real soon to prevent any more problems, I added 5ml of Liquid Oxygen in so hopefully this will do some good, good thing was there was no slime at all and the roots looked dark but a little white at the same time so I think there now stained of the H&G.











 

KCCO 77

Well-Known Member
The light is at around 3ft away from the canopy turned up to 400w bud, but I have just checked the ph and ppm, I have a label over the level when filled, so they have used around 5mm so around a litre, oh was 6.3 and ppm was 570.

Roots were 23c again and froth at the sides so really not good, I will have to buy a chilled and these parts real soon to prevent any more problems, I added 5ml of Liquid Oxygen in so hopefully this will do some good, good thing was there was no slime at all and the roots looked dark but a little white at the same time so I think there now stained of the H&G.











All thing considered at least the numbers r still trending the right way with the ph rising and ppm falling. Ppm is still falling right??last time we talked about this You were at 600 if I remember correctly. Plz correct me if I’m wrong. The plant with the leafs cupping down may be N did you bump your ppm lately??or is that the plant you sprayed the roots off (stress maybe)??
 
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