Yes, red for bloom, blue for veg.
Yer doin fine

Well, it’s more like red setting and a white setting. There isn’t really any blue in either :confused:
 
Here’s the blueberry
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New life!
:party:
 
I’m anxious and frustrated cuz I don’t understand why they’re growing so slowly.

the good news is both of the green crack are producing new growth (See pics)

but for 24hrs of light, it seems exponentially slow. :confused:

I’m growing all autos and everything I've read suggests not needing a dark period. Tho I might try some.

i do have both green crack in the same pot tho. We really didn’t understand the what the fuck was meant by “X number of plants per sq meter” thing. So maybe I fucked it from the get go? I just don’t feel successful at all rn.

ugh idk

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Your plants do seem to be slow, but that could be due to the size of your pot. Most of the action could be happening underground. Just make sure your temperature is about 75°F / 24°C and your humidity is 60 - 80%. Most of my reading suggests that autos benefit from a dark period, so 20/4 or 18/6 are the light schedules I see used. Some do go with 24/0 lighting.

Are the cotyledons changing color? It looks like it in the photo, but it's hard to tell under 'blurple.' Can you post images under white light?
 
Your plants do seem to be slow, but that could be due to the size of your pot. Most of the action could be happening underground. Just make sure your temperature is about 75°F / 24°C and your humidity is 60 - 80%. Most of my reading suggests that autos benefit from a dark period, so 20/4 or 18/6 are the light schedules I see used. Some do go with 24/0 lighting.

Are the cotyledons changing color? It looks like it in the photo, but it's hard to tell under 'blurple.' Can you post images under white light?

This is already helpful.

I had read the humidity needed to be 40-60 and I’ve been hovering around 46-50%.

I’ll work to up that!

the temp has been around 25-28 over the last 2 weeks. I’ve been keeping it to 25-26 the last several days.

Thank you for pointing that out. I think I will follow one of those light schedules.

The cotyledons aren’t changing much. The only true yellow one has been because the seed shell hadn’t fully come off and was pinching the blueberry closed and that leaf never turned green. But it wasn’t pictured above. I’ll post the blueberry pics secondly so as not to confuse.
 

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This is the blueberry. It’s in a pot by itself. I planted it about a week (at least 4 days) after the green crack. It has grown the most but slowed down over the last 24 hours it seems
 

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I’ve never ran autos but I’ve followed journals that had the 20/4 as @Old Salt mentioned.

it’s all a process. It will reward you well

good luck
 
I've found, more often than not, when a seedling isn't growing, it's generally do to overwatering. Happens in bigger pots, and definitely moreso in soil than coco. Also very common with new growers. Easy to correct though.

Anyhow, my suggestion would be to get them into a cycle of letting the soil dry out much more between waterings. Get a feel for the weight of the pot right after watering, then again when dry. That'll really tell you when they need water again.

Roots don't need to stretch out, searching for water, if they always have it available. Make them ladies stretch out a bit in search of water.... what happens below the soil dictates what happens above.

Just MHO....
:passitleft:
 
Good point @Preston9mm

When j first started it was gently put to me that I had a “love toxicity and a knowledge deficiency “ lol I was guilty of the over watering for sure
 
Good point @Preston9mm

When j first started it was gently put to me that I had a “love toxicity and a knowledge deficiency “ lol I was guilty of the over watering for sure
I've been growing for years and still catch myself doing it from time to time.

Easy enough to dial in though. We all have a tendency to "over love" a plant on occasion.
:thumb:
 
That’s great advice @Preston9mm and @Silverfox125, thank you.

I’m going to ensure good dry out between waterings.

I was also wondering, i have a tower fan blowing on the plants (it’s fairly direct), would this be drying out the plants? The leaves appear papery and dry :confused:
 
That’s great advice @Preston9mm and @Silverfox125, thank you.

I’m going to ensure good dry out between waterings.

I was also wondering, i have a tower fan blowing on the plants (it’s fairly direct), would this be drying out the plants? The leaves appear papery and dry :confused:
Don't sweat the fungus gnats to much we all have them or get them they will never go away and do little damage when controlled.Sticky mouse traps lay them upside down on top of soil catches them when they emerge and they never get air born.Good luck.
 
Don't sweat the fungus gnats to much we all have them or get them they will never go away and do little damage when controlled.Sticky mouse traps lay them upside down on top of soil catches them when they emerge and they never get air born.Good luck.

Sorry, but that’s crazy. They eat the leaves. If you can avoid, fungus gnats you really want to do that. If you have them, you need to treat the soil, the plant, the soil surface, and hang sticky tape for the fliers. Basically, you need to break the cycle. They may not go away completely, but they will be greatly reduced. Odds are they will after 2 or 3 treatments.


 
Don't sweat the fungus gnats to much we all have them or get them they will never go away and do little damage when controlled.Sticky mouse traps lay them upside down on top of soil catches them when they emerge and they never get air born.Good luck.
The fungus gnat larvae is what you have to look out for its those little buggers that do the damage by feeding on the little fury hairs in our beloved root zone!!!
 
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