N00B Grower...Please Help w/Leaf Problem

A

AboveDaClouds

New Member
I have 2 babies that I planted on 7/3
1 is almost double in size over the smaller one.

I have noticed that the bigger one has started to turn a light green and has yellow/rust colored spots on its leaves..kind of looks like someone took a cheese shredder and ran it across the leaf once , while the smaller plant looks normal...

I'm very concerned....lets call the big plant # 1 and the small plant # 2

#1 since last night has gotten worse but still is growing a a pretty good pace

what could be the problem? any help would be greatly appreciated


Meduim: MG 3 months Continuous release NPK is 21-7-14
CFL's: 2 26w, 2 27w, 2 15w, and 1 14w all are cool white daylight
Pots: 8 inch thats what it says on the bottom
small desk fan blowing on them.
24/0 light schedule....last night was the 2 week mark so I switched to 18/6

I used superthrive a week ago when I transplanted from dixie cups.

I have pics that I will post upon approval...its 6 pics 5 of my babies and 1 of the setup.


G-roomSetup.jpg
2114.jpg

1B2.jpg

1117.jpg

1A1.jpg
 
Well, check out this page


It's hard for me to guess cause they are so young, and I also can't help as much as the grow mods. Doesn't it sort of look like figure 18, just not as far into the stage as the figure? Wait for someone elses responce before taking my word for it. Give it time but you'll get a good responce.

Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.

Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces "little leaf" in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc defeciency may also produce "rosetting"; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched.
 
They don't look bad too me. Your pictures are kind of blurry, but if you mean the yellowing of the small leaves at the bottom (cotyledons) then that is perfectly normal. Also, your soil looks a little dry.
 
I just got up from a short nap and went to check on my babies......now I have noticed yellowing of the tips of my older leaves and the 2 leaves are curling up, and a few are curling down :(

I hope my PH isn't off...I went to home depot to buy a PH meter....I checked the PH but the meter wouldn't move past 7 so I'm not sure if its broke or not.

I"m just confused, because plant #2 isn't having these problems at all and she looks totally fine....

it looks like something is just eating my babies up...I checked for gnats I did notice 1 the other day but I believe I got rid of it.

I bought some fish emulsion....should I apply it or just wait and see how things turn out?

I stuck my finger down about an inch and a 1/2 and the dirt felt cold..not sure when I should water them again....I watered my plants last on 7/10 when I transplanted with superthrive and watered each plant with 250ml each of water

This is my first grow..I need all the help I can get

Thanks in Advance
 
Hey ATC,
I grow hydroponicly so my opinions should be taken with a grain of salt.

Have you fed them ANY nutrients at all. Superthrive is not a nutrient. If you have fed them then the first thing you want to do is flush your soil asap. Also once a noobie..........I learned that when in doubt, flush it out. It won't hurt you to just use PLAIN.......PH CORRECTED water. Prefferably bottled water from the store unless you KNOW whats coming out of your tap. Personally, I would use Distilled. Thay way you'de be flushing with pure, low PPM water and not adding in uknown micronutirnts and salts.

Not knowing all the info about your grow such as, soil type, ph levels, nutrients used if any, ect makes it hard for anyone to diagnose the problem.

Flush it. Thats the first thing you want to do. After that, give it some time...............like a day or so and see if that helped. If not then I would look into a possible potassium deficiency. Thats what it looks like to me anyway. But flush it first. If salts are built up and your ph isn't right the nutrients would be locked out and unavailable to the plant.

The ph meter from home depot is not reliable. Get a cheap ph meter kit that has small vials of ph tester, ph up and ph down. (Usually made by General Hydroponics) There will be a little chart to follow. Any hydro shop should have one for 10 bucks or less. It'll work for now. If no hyro shops near you go to a graden center and tell them you want the liquid type ph tester, not the stick in the dirt type. If you have the money............Get a digital. Its the very first tool for proper growing.

Run ph corrected water through the soil and collect what runs out the bottom of the pot. Test this run off for a more accurate reading than the meter from home depot. (which I also used before I new better). The stick it in the dirt meter will not test liquids. And i cannot stress enough how unreliable I found mine after I got a digital one and compared the 2.

Once you flush with good water and know for sure what your ph is then you can apply VERY light nutrients if thats what the problem turns out to be.

Hope anything I said helps and Good luck.

Trust me....................I know what your going through right now. And I know it sucks. MJ is VERY resilient. You would not believe some of the shit I put mine through and I am only days away from a massive harvest. You'll overcome this and when you do............You be proud you did. But get ready. The problems will not end until the day you harvest. But that makes it taste so much better. IMO.

Pirate:headbanger:
 
Thanks Pirate......

I flushed her with Dasani Purified Water....thats all I've been watering my babies with since day 1.

The soil I'm using is MG continuous release 3 months!!!

I will go tomorrow for a ph tester

I will definitely keep everyone posted....I'm gonna give her a day or 2 and hopefully flushing her out makes her perk up :allgood:
 
here man hope i dont get in trouble for this....just a bunch of info to help u decided wat disorder ur facing as pics can only help so much...hope this helps :bong::allgood:
Key on Nutrient Disorders
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before
making major changes.
1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.
b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #3.

3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #4.

4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
b) If not, keep reading...

5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and
leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #6.

6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
b) If not, go to #7.

7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray,
brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).
b) If not, go to #8...

8) a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).
b) If not, go to #9.

9) a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
b) If not, go to #10...

10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
b) If not, #11.

11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
b) If not, #12.

12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency.
b) If not, #13.

13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not... You may just have a weak plant.
hope you find out wats wrong with ur plant....btw just my opinion ut look at # 6....i think its an over fert of nitrogen...but u can follow the guide and
find out for sure...peace man and good luck
 
Sounds to me like you need to water more often. 7 days is a long time to have the plant go with no water. I would water them every other day.

Part of your problem is most likely the MG soil. Perhaps there is salt buildup (Na) in the soil that is sucessfully causing potassium (K) to be locked out. Like Pirate said, I would flush the plants with pH 6.2-7.0 water and wait a few days for results to show.
 
I bought some Miracle gro Organic Potting mix 10-5-5......the soil is still wet from the flush, so I was thinking when it drys out a little I can transplant them into the Organic soil.


The new growth looks fine but the older leaves are really yellowing/rust color with the tips curling upward......
 
No problem ATCs.

The old burned leaves will not recover. They will stay like that. The new growth is what you want to watch as well as any spreading of the problem on the old growth. But again. The old rusty leaves will not turn green again.

Your babys look a bit young for any nutes at this point (I could be wrong) (been wrong before). Just use basic soil and water for now. Stabalize the little cuties and when they start to get some rapid growth you can use tiny bits of nutes while watching toi see the reaction. If all goes well you can gradually add more and more nutes according to the specific feeding schedule of the nutes your using.

I've learned to start using nutrients only when the plant is asking for it. Like a little baby crying for its mommys tit. Over feeding will only backfire on ya. (like shit in the diaper or puke on your shoulder)

Again, Good luck with em.

Pirate.
 
I transplanted her from a 8 inch pot to a 10 inch pot like 4 hours ago using the MG Organic.

I will display pics and keep you all posted on any changes within the next few days.
 
So, you've gotten some great advice. . . so let me add a couple of things. .. That slow realease MG could be a prob. . its good that you switched, although miricle grow is not the best choice to begin with.. . and this is from personal experience. IMO, its still too early to be given them nutes. . . The organic mix MG should hold up for about a month, and 4 weeks is a good start time for a 1/4 strength nute feeding. Along with buying a pH kit, get yourself a moisture meter too. . . One of the easiest mistakes too make, too much or not enough water. . . you want your soil to dry out a little too allow the roots to go looking for water. .. with the meter its not a question.

The 3 most common reason why a new grower has issues with their babes:
Patience - when you change something, give the plant a chance to recover and respond before doing something else. . it makes it difficult for you to know what's causing it, and it causes stress and damage.

Water - lots of growers overlook this issue. . . over/under watering is a prob even with experienced growers. . . moisture meters aren't expensive. . and they take the questions out of watering.

Nutes - This will take some practice to get it right. . . 4 weeks in soil is the min time to start nutes. . . some don't even need it then. but you shouldn't give any before 4 weeks. . start with a 1/4 strength mix and slowly work your way up to strength. Gives the babe a chance to adjust. MG nutes even at half strength can burn your plants. . .so take care. .

And finally, if your gonna transplant, make the effort worth it. . . transplanting and such cause stress, and you went from an 8" pot to a 10". . . I don't know what you want to finish your plants in, 10" isn't enough. .. should have went bigger. . . and now you'll have to transplant again prior to flowering. Once my plants are established, They go in 3 gal buckets, and they stay there. .

Good luck man, and if you have any more questions ask away. .

Bagz :peace:
 
i have a little update....

I'm not trying to grow a super big...thats why I just transplanted her into a 10 inch pot to have a little personal stash. If this turns out great then I'll order me some of the real deal seeds...these were just bagseed.

I flushed with about 600ml purified water......

since she is on a 18/6 light schedule now......and I don't have a switch to turn lights on and off yet I woke up at 6am EST this morning to turn the lights back on and all was fine....so I went back to sleep and just got up to check on her at 1230pm EST and now I have major droopage the 2 bottom big sets of leaves are touching the ground and the stem is leaning a little but all the leaves but the new growth leaves are drooping... I also feed her a little superthrive.

is that from stress of the transplant/shock? is that normal?

will she perk back up in a few days?
 

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