Need Help, Advice Please

[MrSauga]

Two gallons of water does not seem like much for all 5 pots. The runoff may be from watering to quick before it has a chance to soak. You are doing it slowly, but if it's dry below it could take a bit for it to soak up.
Do the pots feel light all the time, like a day after they are watered?

 

[MrCountry]

I will go get some pics without lights on and move the lights up to approximately 24", Thanks

 

[MrCountry]

Lights are moved to 24, just makes no sense. The plants were doing good for a few weeks with lower lights. I have so much to learn. Should I just do my final transplant to regular pots or maybe fabric pots

 

[fanleaf]

The first thing I would do is get rid of the cloudline S6 intake blower. There's no need or reason at all to have a blower on the intake side, it should be passive. The only one you need is your exhaust that will suck fresh air in on the intake side passively nothing. Blowers create Heat as well. Anything that uses electricity creates Heat. Get rid of the intake blower and that will actually probably help drop your temperature for you.

 

[Mj76]

Hmmmm. Unscrew your air pots and take a look at those roots. The smallest girl looks relatively ok and that may be a clue.

 

[Mj76]

@fanleaf at the start of this adventure he had his thermometer on top of the pots, 18in below the lights.

 

[MrSauga]

OK I see all the rocks on there too. You may have misunderstood me earlier. It was just the individual leaves that touched the soil. You want to keep them off the soil. I would remove the extras. Typically it would be something to keep the leaf or leaves off the soil.
It looks like heat stress, and probably from the strong LEDS at 18". I just keep getting a feeling they are underwatered.

 

[MrCountry]

Yes I misunderstood about the rocks. To me the roots dont seem to be a problem, the soil is moist. Does the S6 really need to be removed, can't see it producing that much heat. I went ahead and transplanted to a 5 gallon smart pot from the 2 gallon air pot

 

[fanleaf]

@fanleaf at the start of this adventure he had his thermometer on top of the pots, 18in below the lights.

Oh, okay. Gotcha. Still no need for an intake blower but yeah, thermometer location location location LOL

 

[fanleaf]

Yes I misunderstood about the rocks. To me the roots dont seem to be a problem, the soil is moist. Does the S6 really need to be removed, can't see it producing that much heat. I went ahead and transplanted to a 5 gallon smart pot from the 2 gallon air pot

Well the thing is there's absolutely no reason to have it. You basically have two blowers fighting each other even if they are at the same setting they will never be equal. Passive air intake is the way you really want to go. This creates a slight negative pressure in the grow area. As far as how much heat it creates, you can think of it this way. If you plugged it into a kilowatt meter to see how many watts it's pulling oh, let's say for instance 75 Watts, then that blower is producing 75 heat Watts. It's actually quite a bit when you look at it that way isn't it?

 

[MrCountry]

OK I will remove the S6 intake fan, what will be the best way to keep light from entering the grow area. I will also remove all the rocks tomorrow as I misunderstood the previous advice. I still shouldn't have any issues with smell by running a passive set up, correct

 

[fanleaf]

OK I will remove the S6 intake fan, what will be the best way to keep light from entering the grow area. I will also remove all the rocks tomorrow as I misunderstood the previous advice. I still shouldn't have any issues with smell by running a passive set up, correct

Running passive will actually make it easier to control the smell. If you think about it, running passive your exhaust blower has a constant suction on the grow area so nothing escapes. You can use some dryer vent tubing and just make a few bends to block the light. I would put the tubing on the outside of the grow area so it's not in your way. Just two or three bends in the tube will block all of the light.

When you are running an intake blower and an exhaust blower, anytime the intake blower pushes enough air in the room to equalize or almost equalize the pressure, smell will escape.

 

[MrCountry]

Thanks so much for the advice. I have removed the S6 intake fan and now only using the T6 exhaust fan. Should it be slight negative pressure or a little more aggressive. If I can just get the drooping and curling of the plants corrected I will be good. Thanks so much for your time

 

[fanleaf]

Thanks so much for the advice. I have removed the S6 intake fan and now only using the T6 exhaust fan. Should it be slight negative pressure or a little more aggressive. If I can just get the drooping and curling of the plants corrected I will be good. Thanks so much for your time

Slight or aggressive is fine either way. As long as it has a negative pressure you won't have any smell Escape. Let's put it this way, in my larger grow room if I leave the door open about a foot, the door will suck itself shut completely. That's how you know that no smell will be leaking out of the grow area. As far as how much negative pressure is in the room the plants don't care. I tend to keep mine fairly aggressive I guess.

 

[MrCountry]

Thanks much Fanleaf, much appreciated.

 

[fanleaf]

Another thing for you to, it is actually easier as far as the workload goes on your exhaust blower when there is no intake blower. With a passive intake, your exhaust blower has a little bit of a load on it and is actually easier on it because of that. When you are running both, intake and exhaust blowers, The Blower's are pretty much free spinning with no load. That's actually worse for any bearings or parts in the blower. Don't know how if I explained that easy enough to understand LOL. Sometimes I confuse myself when I'm trying to explain things.

 

[MrCountry]

That does make sense and I thought you did a great job explaining, thanks

 

[MrCountry]

Could the humidifier be causing the issue with the plants drooping. I just can't get it figured out. It's a cool mist humidifier and humidity is only at 50%,

 

[MrCountry]

I've tried the some plants less water and some more water but same results for all except the smaller middle plant which looks great with no drooping, I just dont get it

 

[fanleaf]

The problem is in the roots and there's not much you can do to instantly fix it. It's a metabolic issue. Just let the plant heal over time by treating it right. It's a supply-and-demand thing. You can tell this by how waterlogged the Leafs look. As long as you are now watering correctly it will fix itself as long as you keep doing so and you keep temperatures and humidity in line. You see, when you have really low humidity in a grow room with high temps like you had you get what appears to be a nutrient issue, and it is , but not like a simple "too much or not enough" issue. In this case the issue is caused by the demand of the "system" (plant) or supply and demand.
When you have high temps but low humidity a whole lot of water moves through the leafs. Leaf transpiration is peaked. This causes a supply issue because the roots cannot keep up with the demand.
Just keep your humidity up as high as you can. If 50% is about as high as you can get it that is fine I would just get the canopy temperature down no higher than 78 - 80 degrees. It will sort itself out as the supply and demand equalize.