New automated setup
- Thread starter Raymont
- Start date
It's a nice setup. I have a few questions:
- Can you get at all the plants for training/maintenance without taking them out of the buckets?
- How are you controlling the nutrient solution level in the buckets? Is it dependent on the level in the reservoir, or have you done something in the buckets to control the level?
- How easy is it to take the lids off of the buckets for inspection/cleaning/maintenance (replace airstones)?
Salton
Well-Known Member
Nice setup.
- Thread starter
- #4
Very interesting!
I'm building similar at the moment.
Using the place where the front tent flaps/doors come together as your duct port? Nice. Damn nice. Beats the duct port height on the sides.
Nice and clean plumbing run. Great job on that! (Mine looks a mess with valves and primer drips everywhere, but it will work!)
White buckets: you really, really need to either take those out and spray paint black, or add reflective film all the way around. That white is going to let light into your res, and you're going to end up with a bad case of the goopies.
You may want to consider both, just to be safe. Even pin holes of light into the res can be trouble.
I'm building similar at the moment.
Using the place where the front tent flaps/doors come together as your duct port? Nice. Damn nice. Beats the duct port height on the sides.
Nice and clean plumbing run. Great job on that! (Mine looks a mess with valves and primer drips everywhere, but it will work!)
White buckets: you really, really need to either take those out and spray paint black, or add reflective film all the way around. That white is going to let light into your res, and you're going to end up with a bad case of the goopies.
You may want to consider both, just to be safe. Even pin holes of light into the res can be trouble.
- Thread starter
- #6
Remystemple
Well-Known Member
nice stuff.. i'd just buy some gorilla tape and tape em lol.
- Thread starter
- #8
Well I mixed my nutes early and got water pH'ed. Was gonna wait a few more days for the seedlings to get a bit stronger and off to the races....NOT, sure enough slime. I bleached system painted buckets black (black ones on order for next run.) and now have panda film over the whole bucket setup. Total darkness. I'll cut holes in the plastic and drop the nets thru them. Bummer lost one seedling...will run 3 for scrog.
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Remystemple
Well-Known Member
3 should be lots for scrog broski. I was just considering doing 3 in my 4x8. but i've never done scrog before so i'm not confident i'd be able to fill it with 3 plants. you'll fill the 4x4 with 3 no problemo. i don't think you'll even miss the one that got away.
- Thread starter
- #10
I think your right. I shouldn't have any trouble filling the screen with 2 in hydro even....
Remystemple
Well-Known Member
i bought 10 black 5 gallon pails of excellent quality from amazon ca for $100. i couldn't believe how much the hydro companies charge for an effing pail.
- Thread starter
- #12
- Thread starter
- #13
Ive learned a lot from this build even before it has started. I already have a new design. I plan to put the bulkhead fittings in the bottom of the bucket and build a 4 inch base/frame to sit on. Therefore allowing to drain 100% back to resy for water changes. 4 inches elevation required is for the 1 1/2inch pvc elbow to fit under the bucket.. I will then build a 2 inch base for the resy so it doesnt have much of a difference of water elevation. Which is only important when plants are young and roots are short.
Remystemple
Well-Known Member
no sorry. i didn't even think of that.
- Thread starter
- #15
I got the bulkhead fittings that I could thread a piece of pipe inside the bucket. That piece of pipe served as a riser, keeping the water level in the bucket constant, regardless of the level in the reservoir. Drill holes in the sides of the riser at, and above the level you want in the bucket. drill a hole in the lid of the bucket, and you'll be able to unscrew the riser to drain the bucket for nutrient changes, without disturbing the plant. If you put your reservoir on the floor, instead of on the platform, you'll gain capacity.
- Thread starter
- #17
I want EVERYTHING to drain back to the reservoir. Im concerned about relocating the 1 1/2 in pvc to the very bottom to allow 100% drainage. Directly thru the bottom and not the side. So Ill raise it. I have the water piped in thru the top of the bucket or incoming water. Reservoir is what controls my levels. Ill be 2 inches lower on the return for 100% drainage for water changes.
Holy cow! I paid $30 US for the same.
Now the rectangular ones, those are pricey. Seems silly for a bucket, but as soon as you label it for "growing", you can kick the price up by a factor of 5.
Greenlizard
Well-Known Member
Holy cow! I paid $30 US for the same.
Now the rectangular ones, those are pricey. Seems silly for a bucket, but as soon as you label it for "growing", you can kick the price up by a factor of 5.
With the exchange difference between the US/Can currency Remy probably only paid about $20 more than you did. The source is probably in the US and that makes the difference likely.
I hear ya on the price inflation as soon as it's deemed "special purpose" such as for growing.
A person could probably make a few bucks selling pre-assembled 4 plant packages to their local market. Seems to be a demand from what I can tell.
You won't get everything. There will be about 1/2" or 12mm left in the buckets after draining.
Those riser pipes I mentioned can be screwed out for nutrient changes. I'll take a picture in a few days. Things are a little crazy around here now. I'm taking a coffee break and checking updates.
Those riser pipes I mentioned can be screwed out for nutrient changes. I'll take a picture in a few days. Things are a little crazy around here now. I'm taking a coffee break and checking updates.
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