New Grow Room Help

Noobie65

420 Member
first grow room first grow

have a room that is spray insulated 8x9x9h

hubby already framed and put chipboard up to cover up the insulation.

Pretty sure I got everything we need. We decided to do 5gallon pail rdwc. (ya, already got told im nuts)

got led lights 1200w versapector (or however you spell it)
8" fan and phresh carbon filter
6" fan and phresh intake filter

only doing one setup for now and then plan to have a separate area for veg

Questions
1) carbon filter in the room or out?(got told by a good friend that he saw someone put it in and took the smell and taste right out of the plant) so kinda got me second guessing what our plan was.

2) mylar or the white/black poly? was planning mylar (actually have some its folded though so lots of creases) but again was told poly better

3) connecting buckets, so many different ways want them to be able to move though so something flexible in between, Hubby and I are disagreeing he wants things that screw together, I say go rubber grommets because they are cheap and easier to get at if theres a clog by any chance.

4) Nutrients? was planning looking into general hydro trio set but got told go dutch a and b what are your reviews
 
0) Why do you have an intake fan? Is your exhaust fan underpowered and, therefore, not up to the task of moving air through the space? Or do you lack sufficient (or sufficiently sized) intake openings/vents for it to do so unassisted? Is your exhaust fan not up to the task of moving air against a restriction (your carbon filter, bends, long duct runs)? I prefer the squirrel cage type fans. Actually, I would prefer a nice, hefty Dayton blower, lol - those things could run as part of an HVAC system for... well, the one on my furnace is the same age as the furnace (which won't be 50 until next year ;) ), but <KNOCKS ON WOOD> I hope it's still got a few years of service left in it. Anyway, they run for decades, most of them probably not even receiving the few drops of oil and good cleaning once per year that they're probably supposed to get as maintenance. But, yeah, a good squirrel cage fan should be better at moving air in a "partially restricted" setup. Be sure your carbon filter has a higher rating than your fan does.

00) That's not nuts. I like DWC setups, myself - but I like them to use 20- to 25-gallon reservoirs, lol, so it kind of makes up for the lack of the extra reservoir. I've been doing soil recently (I couldn't really explain why, :rolleyes: ) and some passive hydroponics. I'll be doing more of both, directly, but hope to get back into DWC late this year or next year sometime.

000) A permanent, insulated, dedicated grow space... Have you considered sealing it, adding some kind of air conditioner (maybe a mini split type), and running CO₂? That would get expensive with LED lighting, though. In addition to the expense of buying a monitor/controller and tank, and paying for the gas, you wouldn't have the option of running air-cooled ("sealed") reflectors so that you could bring in air, move it through those reflectors, and move it back out of the grow room without it ever coming into contact with your general grow room environment. One of the downsides of running LED lighting instead of HIDs, I suppose; the only LED product I've seen that had flanges for duct connections and was otherwise sealed was a few years ago and it was something like $1,000 (maybe slightly higher) then, lol. Never could understand why that didn't catch on. Maybe the manufacturers are afraid people will try to run them without forced-air (fan) cooling, burn out the components due to overheating, and try to make warranty claims, IDK.

1) I must assume that your friend had his/her carbon filter on a recirculating setup, where the air stays in the grow space - and I still find it difficult to believe. The only anti-odor device I can think of that would be capable of that is an ozone generator. They don't cover odor and they don't filter it, either - they *destroy* it, lol.

It seems to me that the carbon filter should be before the fan, so that the air passing through the fan will be filtered. Plus, the prefilter is more or less useless if you're pushing air through the carbon filter instead of the reverse, since it would be the last thing the air would pass through.

2) Orca Film seems to be the highest-rated product in terms of (light-) reflectivity. It's not the cheapest product, though.

3) Hubby is correct, sort of. With metal pipes and fittings, you should have a better seal, or a better chance at a good seal, however you want to look at it. With cheap plastic stuff, though, that's not quite so much of a given. I mean the should is still present, but it's easier to cross-thread if the installer isn't paying attention (sometimes even if es is) or if there's some kind of manufacturing defect with the threads. Bulkhead fittings are fine. Most of the ones you'll find will be plastic, and threaded. Remember that the washers/gaskets should be treated as maintenance items (because they are). Worried about clogs? Go up a size (or two) in pipe diameter, lol. It shouldn't be an issue, really, but if it happens you should be up to dealing with it. You could always include provision for overflows on your buckets that can drain back to your main(?) reservoir via gravity if you plan to be away from your garden for periods of time and worry that you might not discover a partial clog before it becomes more or less a complete one.

4) I used General Hydroponics nutrients in DWC for years, and had no complaints (I was selling back then). Couple people told me they were happy I was able to get "good outdoor bud instead of that hydro sh!t," ;) . It's been used in space, lol. And, while it really isn't rocket science, the guy that started the company was kind of a rocket scientist at the time. Science guy (out in Berkley? I cannot remember...), doing interesting things during the day, coming home and tending to his little cannabis garden on the back porch. He was mixing up his own nutrients out of the elemental components. Then one of his friends, coworkers, somebody... said, "Hey, man, you ought to think about selling this stuff, I bet a few people would be interested in buying it." I just paraphrased it because I'm too lazy to search for and post an exact interview quote, but that's basically the creation of General Hydroponics in a nutshell. I wonder, if he hadn't gone into hydroponics nutrients production, would we be getting high on Mars right now? Hmm... Nah. I'm guessing that one has to be crazy, consume some kind of mind-altering substances, or be a son of a b!tch like the late Carl Sagen to actively want to work in a space program, so there have probably been a few friends of cannabis in it all along, and we're still here. Not that I think it'd be in any way wise to attempt to colonize Mars - about the only thing dumber, IMHO, would be to remain bound to Terra - because it'd probably take approximately 500 years of daily bombardments with substantially-sized chunks of ice (comets) along with a few other "minor" things in order to turn its rather tenuous atmosphere into something that we could walk around in and breathe, let alone do so in something thinner than an arctic parka... and it still wouldn't have a magnetic field, so Sol would just strip it away again. But I digress (okay... ramble).

General Hydroponics' products are okay. It's the owner of the company that I can't stand. It was purchased by Scotts Miracle-Gro's Hawthorne Group, and I'd be quite happy to never give another penny to that entity. Ironically, I just did :( . I was given some nutrients and decided to "complete the set" instead of throwing them away and having to start over.

Most nutrient brands are capable of producing top-shelf cannabis. Some of them are kind of expensive (and I would guess the profit margins on even the cheapest brands are... comfortable). People have been growing cannabis since... Well, I don't know that there was any present in the Hanging Gardens, lol, but there were undoubtedly cannabis plants being cultivated somewhere on the planet way back then. Its nutritional requirements are pretty well understood by now. And hydroponics has been around since - okay, I just mentioned the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, so that's a good indicator. In the modern era, it's been a thing since at least as far back as 1972, because I once saw a (really thin) book on how to make one's own hydroponic nutrients and that was its copyright date.

There are a lot of nutrient brands discussed in this thread (and it's pretty large, so you may wish to use our search routine (set to search that specific thread) and type in brand names), perhaps it will include things about those two brands:

Price isn't really an indicator of quality. You can grow fine bud with something as cheap/simple as Osmocote Plus:
...or something like General Hydroponics MaxiGro and MaxiBloom dry nutrients, which is one of the cheapest hydroponic nutrient lines, Jack's Classic products (also dry nutrients, and also pretty inexpensive)... or spend a grand or more to purchase the full set of a brand's "premium" nutrient line.

It's about giving the plants what they need, in a form they can use, at the proper pH. General Hydroponics is fine if you don't mind enriching the Scotts Miracle-Gro Company. If you do (bless you, lol), pick another brand. It'll be fine, too - and there'll probably be a thread or two about it, and there will probably already be a grow journal thread (or 100+ of them) in which the brand was used.

Good luck with your upcoming grow!
 
1. Filter in the room can't suck the taste out of a plant. Tell you're mate he's mental lol.
2. Black n white sheeting is sound.
3. got absolutely no idea but how many buckets you planning on using?
4. Dutch Pro a&b is the absolute dogs bollocks! Plenty cheaper versions though. I'm now using growth technology. Probably the cheapest liquid nutes out there and getting great results. Seen loads of folk do well with the even cheaper powdered stuff too.
5. That light can't cover a 8x9. Sure it's about 450w so best not covering more than a square metre.
6. WELCOME TO 420!
 
0) Why do you have an intake fan? Is your exhaust fan underpowered and, therefore, not up to the task of moving air through the space? Or do you lack sufficient (or sufficiently sized) intake openings/vents for it to do so unassisted? Is your exhaust fan not up to the task of moving air against a restriction (your carbon filter, bends, long duct runs)? I prefer the squirrel cage type fans. Actually, I would prefer a nice, hefty Dayton blower, lol - those things could run as part of an HVAC system for... well, the one on my furnace is the same age as the furnace (which won't be 50 until next year ;) ), but <KNOCKS ON WOOD> I hope it's still got a few years of service left in it. Anyway, they run for decades, most of them probably not even receiving the few drops of oil and good cleaning once per year that they're probably supposed to get as maintenance. But, yeah, a good squirrel cage fan should be better at moving air in a "partially restricted" setup. Be sure your carbon filter has a higher rating than your fan does.

00) That's not nuts. I like DWC setups, myself - but I like them to use 20- to 25-gallon reservoirs, lol, so it kind of makes up for the lack of the extra reservoir. I've been doing soil recently (I couldn't really explain why, :rolleyes: ) and some passive hydroponics. I'll be doing more of both, directly, but hope to get back into DWC late this year or next year sometime.

000) A permanent, insulated, dedicated grow space... Have you considered sealing it, adding some kind of air conditioner (maybe a mini split type), and running CO₂? That would get expensive with LED lighting, though. In addition to the expense of buying a monitor/controller and tank, and paying for the gas, you wouldn't have the option of running air-cooled ("sealed") reflectors so that you could bring in air, move it through those reflectors, and move it back out of the grow room without it ever coming into contact with your general grow room environment. One of the downsides of running LED lighting instead of HIDs, I suppose; the only LED product I've seen that had flanges for duct connections and was otherwise sealed was a few years ago and it was something like $1,000 (maybe slightly higher) then, lol. Never could understand why that didn't catch on. Maybe the manufacturers are afraid people will try to run them without forced-air (fan) cooling, burn out the components due to overheating, and try to make warranty claims, IDK.

1) I must assume that your friend had his/her carbon filter on a recirculating setup, where the air stays in the grow space - and I still find it difficult to believe. The only anti-odor device I can think of that would be capable of that is an ozone generator. They don't cover odor and they don't filter it, either - they *destroy* it, lol.

It seems to me that the carbon filter should be before the fan, so that the air passing through the fan will be filtered. Plus, the prefilter is more or less useless if you're pushing air through the carbon filter instead of the reverse, since it would be the last thing the air would pass through.

2) Orca Film seems to be the highest-rated product in terms of (light-) reflectivity. It's not the cheapest product, though.

3) Hubby is correct, sort of. With metal pipes and fittings, you should have a better seal, or a better chance at a good seal, however you want to look at it. With cheap plastic stuff, though, that's not quite so much of a given. I mean the should is still present, but it's easier to cross-thread if the installer isn't paying attention (sometimes even if es is) or if there's some kind of manufacturing defect with the threads. Bulkhead fittings are fine. Most of the ones you'll find will be plastic, and threaded. Remember that the washers/gaskets should be treated as maintenance items (because they are). Worried about clogs? Go up a size (or two) in pipe diameter, lol. It shouldn't be an issue, really, but if it happens you should be up to dealing with it. You could always include provision for overflows on your buckets that can drain back to your main(?) reservoir via gravity if you plan to be away from your garden for periods of time and worry that you might not discover a partial clog before it becomes more or less a complete one.

4) I used General Hydroponics nutrients in DWC for years, and had no complaints (I was selling back then). Couple people told me they were happy I was able to get "good outdoor bud instead of that hydro sh!t," ;) . It's been used in space, lol. And, while it really isn't rocket science, the guy that started the company was kind of a rocket scientist at the time. Science guy (out in Berkley? I cannot remember...), doing interesting things during the day, coming home and tending to his little cannabis garden on the back porch. He was mixing up his own nutrients out of the elemental components. Then one of his friends, coworkers, somebody... said, "Hey, man, you ought to think about selling this stuff, I bet a few people would be interested in buying it." I just paraphrased it because I'm too lazy to search for and post an exact interview quote, but that's basically the creation of General Hydroponics in a nutshell. I wonder, if he hadn't gone into hydroponics nutrients production, would we be getting high on Mars right now? Hmm... Nah. I'm guessing that one has to be crazy, consume some kind of mind-altering substances, or be a son of a b!tch like the late Carl Sagen to actively want to work in a space program, so there have probably been a few friends of cannabis in it all along, and we're still here. Not that I think it'd be in any way wise to attempt to colonize Mars - about the only thing dumber, IMHO, would be to remain bound to Terra - because it'd probably take approximately 500 years of daily bombardments with substantially-sized chunks of ice (comets) along with a few other "minor" things in order to turn its rather tenuous atmosphere into something that we could walk around in and breathe, let alone do so in something thinner than an arctic parka... and it still wouldn't have a magnetic field, so Sol would just strip it away again. But I digress (okay... ramble).

General Hydroponics' products are okay. It's the owner of the company that I can't stand. It was purchased by Scotts Miracle-Gro's Hawthorne Group, and I'd be quite happy to never give another penny to that entity. Ironically, I just did :( . I was given some nutrients and decided to "complete the set" instead of throwing them away and having to start over.

Most nutrient brands are capable of producing top-shelf cannabis. Some of them are kind of expensive (and I would guess the profit margins on even the cheapest brands are... comfortable). People have been growing cannabis since... Well, I don't know that there was any present in the Hanging Gardens, lol, but there were undoubtedly cannabis plants being cultivated somewhere on the planet way back then. Its nutritional requirements are pretty well understood by now. And hydroponics has been around since - okay, I just mentioned the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, so that's a good indicator. In the modern era, it's been a thing since at least as far back as 1972, because I once saw a (really thin) book on how to make one's own hydroponic nutrients and that was its copyright date.

There are a lot of nutrient brands discussed in this thread (and it's pretty large, so you may wish to use our search routine (set to search that specific thread) and type in brand names), perhaps it will include things about those two brands:

Price isn't really an indicator of quality. You can grow fine bud with something as cheap/simple as Osmocote Plus:
...or something like General Hydroponics MaxiGro and MaxiBloom dry nutrients, which is one of the cheapest hydroponic nutrient lines, Jack's Classic products (also dry nutrients, and also pretty inexpensive)... or spend a grand or more to purchase the full set of a brand's "premium" nutrient line.

It's about giving the plants what they need, in a form they can use, at the proper pH. General Hydroponics is fine if you don't mind enriching the Scotts Miracle-Gro Company. If you do (bless you, lol), pick another brand. It'll be fine, too - and there'll probably be a thread or two about it, and there will probably already be a grow journal thread (or 100+ of them) in which the brand was used.

Good luck with your upcoming grow!


0) its the way the room was set up before. (bought a new house and found a grow room lol (hubby was clearing out space in out storage shed (an old kiln turn shed) to make a grow room and he happened to accidently break some of the spray insulation and we found the room) , hadnt been used since 2003 (from grow journal left there), (shame as the flood tables were probably mint, nice metal ones, but were too far gone). just got cheap growneer 8" 800cfm (carbon filter is 750). there is actually another duct line thats like 12" in the middle of the one wall havent figured out what they did there. and then growneer 6" to do the intake. There was a window shaker in there so think they used lights for heat in winter.

00) Just got told nuts as first time growing really, decided on rdwc 12 buckets as just incase dont get out there a day or something with work and kids. and hubby seems to like smoking the hydro stuff over outdoor or soil.

000) have thought about co2 tanks but around this area its a pain the ass to get them. have trouble getting them for restaurant i manage

1) wasnt my friend was a setup he has seen, he actually helps people set them up hes been doing it for 40 years. so asked him for his input on mine.

2)have to look into that, probably wont be first harvest trying to do things some what on budget until we get some more $

3) this one he won out last night, wants the threaded stuff doing 2" flexible tubing in between so can move buckets easier

4) think i might lean more towards dutch (pretty sure thats what they used in room before too with cans labeled a and b lol) and following a KISS (keep it simple stupid) protocol.

Thank you will do, hopefully dont kill them i have a pretty black thumb with regular plants lol. Although the cherry tomato plant we had on porch managed to revive a few times, never got any tomatoes as kids would always pick them off.
 
1. Filter in the room can't suck the taste out of a plant. Tell you're mate he's mental lol.
2. Black n white sheeting is sound.
3. got absolutely no idea but how many buckets you planning on using?
4. Dutch Pro a&b is the absolute dogs bollocks! Plenty cheaper versions though. I'm now using growth technology. Probably the cheapest liquid nutes out there and getting great results. Seen loads of folk do well with the even cheaper powdered stuff too.
5. That light can't cover a 8x9. Sure it's about 450w so best not covering more than a square metre.
6. WELCOME TO 420!

1) okay will do, not sure what the set up is that he saw that happen, maybe like someone said was ozone thing.
2) thank you
3) 12 buckets + control hubby decided last night doing the screw thingys (cant for life of me think of the name of them lol)
4) thank you think thats the one gonna go with
5) got two viparspectra v1200 (actual 520w draw) (only going to use 4x8 for the grow space. and eventually set an area up for veg.

Thank you again
 
Ahh that sounds a bit better for the lighting. Dutch Pro really are awesome nutes, can't praise them enough. Just too bloody expensive for me. Last big plant cost me about £150 Just in nutes.
I'm a hydro grower so can answer any questions you'll have that don't relate to the actual system, I'm an individual res per plant kinda guy. Not sure how rdwc systems physically work but the rest is all the same.

Top tip is make sure your using something to keep that res clean. Sm-90 or hydroguard are the only 2 products I can vouch for but there are other things. If you don't use some sort of cleaning product you'll get root rot and all sorts of gunk growing. Catches out loads of first time hydro heads. Use something for it though and you'll be perfectly safe. Nothing worse than seeing someone spend 4 months creating a masterpiece to lose it all when the roots die first time the res gets too hot.

Spend some cash on a decent ph meter and a decent ppm meter too, the cheap ones on Amazon are useless. Sometimes they work but generally cause more dramas than good. Hard to diagnose an issue if your meters don't work right. Personally I recommend "essentials" for those but depends where you are and what's available. Bluelab are the most recommended on these sites but they're effin expensive too! Essentials are just as reliable and half the price.

Hydro is an absolute piece of piss though. Just follow the numbers on the meters and literally nothing can go wrong.

Oh and just spotted the co2 comment. Just forget you ever heard the term for now. It's for pros to go from 90% to 95%. You, me and the next guy will get little to no benefit from it.
 
was thinking hydroguard as heard nothing but great things, just havent found a good price yet. Dutch has one called sparkle

ph have no idea which one to use, got told by two people now that i shouldnt have a problem because i have good well water so just get a cheap one.

the ec was gonna use the bluelab stick thingy truncheon, it is expensive but if we dont manage to kill them, we should get our money worth with the first harvest saving from hubby buying it he smokes more than an oz a week and got some auto flower northern lights and white widow seeds to get first one fast.


thank you i will def bug you as grow goes on
 
Nah honestly, don't skimp on the meters. I went through 4 cheap pH meters before I finally bit the bullet.
You need to know exactly what the pH and ppm of the Res is at all times.
If the pH (acidity level of the nutes) gets too far off you bring it back or the plant won't be able to absorb the nutes.
If the ppm ( strength of the nutes in parts per million) rises you add more water, if it drops you add more nutes.
Keep the ppm steady or dropping just slightly from day to day and you'll never get any issues.
There's a million and 1 things can go wrong with a hydro grow but if you keep those 2 numbers steady you don't need to know a single thing about any of them.

The magic ppm number is roughly 100ppm per week of veg asuming they're growing properly.
Keep that steady, and the ph will rise slowly during veg and drop slowly during bloom.
To make life easy you go in at 5.7 for veg and 6.3 for bloom. Gives you the best range before needing to adjust it again. Get it down to a t and you won't have to adjust it much at all.

Don't let the res get too hot. I start struggling at 30*c but I think the general consensus is 17-22*c. Mines is a bit different so heat isn't so much an issue for me. Would double check the temperature with a Dwc grower actually. Just to be safe.

And that's literally all there is to hydro growing.

Bottoms go yellow and you up the a&b (NPK - nitrogen, potassium and phosperous)
Tops go yellow or you get rusty spots on mid growth, you up the micro bottle. (Ca,mg,fe - calcium magnesium and iron)
I found vitalink calmag to be the perfect acompaniement as it's got added iron and there's not much in the Dutch nutes so anything on the bigger side gets deficits. And you'll need calmag for lots of reasons.

You don't need a feeding schedule or anything like that. Just make up a 10L batch of like half strength nutes as it says on the bottle. Check the ppm then divide it down to 100ppm. You'll be mixing it in large volumes so even 0.1ml per litre won't be hard to get perfect.
Follow the numbers and use a cleaning product and there is literally nothing that can possibly go wrong from the reservoir side.

I spent 4 months struggling till someone explained that to me. It might not all make sense now but once you get up and running re-read it and you'll see what I mean. Just following numbers on sticks and looking out for yellow bits. Easy peasy.
 
Nah honestly, don't skimp on the meters. I went through 4 cheap pH meters before I finally bit the bullet.
You need to know exactly what the pH and ppm of the Res is at all times.
If the pH (acidity level of the nutes) gets too far off you bring it back or the plant won't be able to absorb the nutes.
If the ppm ( strength of the nutes in parts per million) rises you add more water, if it drops you add more nutes.
Keep the ppm steady or dropping just slightly from day to day and you'll never get any issues.
There's a million and 1 things can go wrong with a hydro grow but if you keep those 2 numbers steady you don't need to know a single thing about any of them.

The magic ppm number is roughly 100ppm per week of veg asuming they're growing properly.
Keep that steady, and the ph will rise slowly during veg and drop slowly during bloom.
To make life easy you go in at 5.7 for veg and 6.3 for bloom. Gives you the best range before needing to adjust it again. Get it down to a t and you won't have to adjust it much at all.

Don't let the res get too hot. I start struggling at 30*c but I think the general consensus is 17-22*c. Mines is a bit different so heat isn't so much an issue for me. Would double check the temperature with a Dwc grower actually. Just to be safe.

And that's literally all there is to hydro growing.

Bottoms go yellow and you up the a&b (NPK - nitrogen, potassium and phosperous)
Tops go yellow or you get rusty spots on mid growth, you up the micro bottle. (Ca,mg,fe - calcium magnesium and iron)
I found vitalink calmag to be the perfect acompaniement as it's got added iron and there's not much in the Dutch nutes so anything on the bigger side gets deficits. And you'll need calmag for lots of reasons.

You don't need a feeding schedule or anything like that. Just make up a 10L batch of like half strength nutes as it says on the bottle. Check the ppm then divide it down to 100ppm. You'll be mixing it in large volumes so even 0.1ml per litre won't be hard to get perfect.
Follow the numbers and use a cleaning product and there is literally nothing that can possibly go wrong from the reservoir side.

I spent 4 months struggling till someone explained that to me. It might not all make sense now but once you get up and running re-read it and you'll see what I mean. Just following numbers on sticks and looking out for yellow bits. Easy peasy.
Barney, what pH meter did you land on? I just had a $40 meter arrive DOA.
 
Barney, what pH meter did you land on? I just had a $40 meter arrive DOA.
I got the 'essentials' one. Can't fault it like. Been spot on every time I've tested it. 40 bucks should be worth the money though. The cheaper ones will be way cheaper than that. Usually yellow for some reason too.
 
Yeah, the On-Off button worked the first few times, later that evening it wouldn't work at all. Had to pull the batteries to get it to power on. No worries, it can go right back and I get a refund.
 
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