Not sure what's going on here: PH? Genetics?

[growinggreen7]

So im running 78watts per square foot of led lights between two 2300 lumen bulbs and one 2400 lumen hortitek Growsaber,
I have no ph or nutrient measurement device,
the plants have had just one feed of NPK+C and watered with tap water with disolved epsom salts
The room temp is 18 at night and 23 in the day
They are all on heatpads
The seed has shown signs of mutant genes before the first feed
And they are all 3 weeks old since germination.
Iv tried using a fan, a total of 30 hours of fan, but stopped since these signs have shown.
Its been 5 days since the feed when i took these photos, also misted the leafs prior to taking the photo
I want to know what the spots are on the first picture, and if its related to the ulgy looking new growth.
i want to know why there are strips ofa lighter shade of green of which you can see a salty texture to the leaf.
On photo three, is this damage from genetics?
And photo four iv just never seen anything like it, my favourite looking plant, makes me consider buying a ph tool when i can next

 

[Tokin Roll]

@growinggreen7

We can help, but you need to help us first.

The images are great; now tell us about your soil, nutrients, and water to start.

I have no ph or nutrient measurement device,

Is this a coco grow? The reason I ask is because it's a different ballgame from soil.

tok..

 

[growinggreen7]

@growinggreen7

We can help, but you need to help us first.

The images are great; now tell us about your soil, nutrients, and water to start.

Is this a coco grow? The reason I ask is because it's a different ballgame from soil.

tok..

Hey there, nah its soil, the soil additives i used is a half a teaspoon of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium in each pot and a bit less of phosphate and potassium and the water is straight out the tap 60mls of it in each pot into the soil

 

[growinggreen7]

Here is my overall growsetup, its hard to see my concerns from this distance

 

[growinggreen7]

If its a phosphorus thing does it look like too much or not enough? I dont understand how it cant be enough as this doesnt happen when i dont feed any soil additives at all

 

[013]

Hey GG7,

Welcome to 420! Your crew looks really great, excellent job on getting here by yourself! Ok so spooning on inputs of N P K ca & mg does not necessarily make them available to the plant. If you give too much or not enough of one element it throws the all other shyte out of whack, that’s why most buy into a system. Used to be you had to get 7 bottles of real expensive crap now they’ve got really good nutes that are reasonably cheap formulated as a one shot type of deal. One of our sponsors is GeoFlora they make an organic dry mix that you spoon on as top dress every 2 weeks and water in or megacrop is a one part that works well.

Of course it’s perfectly fine to roll your own with a supersoil or LOS and add amendments. It would help to know whats in your soil mix and what you amendments are adding

I don’t see a genetic problem, I do think its pest pressure on damaged leaves & deficiency too. Your soil looks pretty wet but your roots are nice & white. If you are North America cheap ph & ppm pen combo vivosun about 20 clams online at bezos grey smiley van site of world domination place

 

[growinggreen7]

Hey GG7,

Welcome to 420! Your crew looks really great, excellent job on getting here by yourself! Ok so spooning on inputs of N P K ca & mg does not necessarily make them available to the plant. If you give too much or not enough of one element it throws the all other shyte out of whack, that’s why most buy into a system. Used to be you had to get 7 bottles of real expensive crap now they’ve got really good nutes that are reasonably cheap formulated as a one shot type of deal. One of our sponsors is GeoFlora they make an organic dry mix that you spoon on as top dress every 2 weeks and water in or megacrop is a one part that works well.

Of course it’s perfectly fine to roll your own with a supersoil or LOS and add amendments. It would help to know whats in your soil mix and what you amendments are adding

I don’t see a genetic problem, I do think its pest pressure on damaged leaves & deficiency too. Your soil looks pretty wet but your roots are nice & white. If you are North America cheap ph & ppm pen combo vivosun about 20 clams online at bezos grey smiley van site of world domination place

Thankyou, and thanku for the reply, and yes it would really help to know the ppm and ph, because here i tried to make my soil extra premium like in the past, when my plants just started boosting and i didnt have to touch the soil again for the remaining veg cycle, but it seems some plants had a reaction, that varies between plants.. (they all reacted differently) and some didnt at all

 

[BigD13]

Hey there, nah its soil,

What kind of soil exactly? It hard for us to help you without more details.

the soil additives i used is a half a teaspoon of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium in each pot and a bit less of phosphate and potassium

Again, what are you using exactly? Did you use a liquid or dry additives? Are you using something like the Fox Farms trio?

Also, in the pic of the roots your soil looks very damp. Are you letting it dry out between watering? If not you should be.

Also, in soil you don’t need to pH your nutes. Check out the link below for a discussion on if you need to do that or not.

Do we need to pH adjust our nutrient solutions?

Greetings all! I recently had a running email conversation with the "Grower Services & Product Development Director" at ProMix (aka Premier Tech). I began the conversation by posting a question on their website, asking if I should be treating ProMix HP as soil or soil-less when mixing...

www.420magazine.com

 

[013]

I could be wrong here BigD13 but it sounded to me like they were using something like blood meal, bone meal etc for inputs but yes we need clarification on ferts from the op

Ditto it’s a point of disagreement with many folks here that you don’t necessarily have to check ph of your feed solution for soil grows but as I mentioned you can get an inexpensive vivosun ph meter and ppm meter at 20 bucks for both on Amazon and it’s not going to hurt to know the numbers of what you are feeding your crew with or to know the starting point of your water from the tap. When troubleshooting an issue ph & ppm are a good place for a new gardener to start

ditto on the wet soil...

 

[BigD13]

I could be wrong here BigD13 but it sounded to me like they were using something like blood meal, bone meal etc for inputs

You might be right. What confused me was when he said:

the plants have had just one feed of NPK+C

the soil additives i used is a half a teaspoon of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium in each pot and a bit less of phosphate and potassium

so I don’t know if it was blood meal, or bone meal, or something else. I know you can buy straight potassium/potash from Amazon.

but yes we need clarification on ferts from the op

I agree.

When troubleshooting an issue ph & ppm are a good place for a new gardener to start

Yep. Couldn’t hurt.

 

[growinggreen7]

UPDATE: potted them up a pot size
(Temp in pic is 5° lower than usual(( had the door open for a while early in the morning)))

And i threw out this stupid looking plant, i now believe my concerns were due to a rust bacteria.... unbelievable

:/

 

[growinggreen7]

You might be right. What confused me was when he said:



so I don’t know if it was blood meal, or bone meal, or something else. I know you can buy straight potassium/potash from Amazon.


I agree.


Yep. Couldn’t hurt.

Hey there BigD,
Specifics:
N: tui branded urea, 42-0-0
P: tui branded super potassium 0-9-0
K: tui branded sulphate of potash 0-0-42
Ca: tui branded lime +32ca
S: tui branded hydrangea blue
Mg: tui branded epsom salts

 

[growinggreen7]

I could be wrong here BigD13 but it sounded to me like they were using something like blood meal, bone meal etc for inputs but yes we need clarification on ferts from the op

Ditto it’s a point of disagreement with many folks here that you don’t necessarily have to check ph of your feed solution for soil grows but as I mentioned you can get an inexpensive vivosun ph meter and ppm meter at 20 bucks for both on Amazon and it’s not going to hurt to know the numbers of what you are feeding your crew with or to know the starting point of your water from the tap. When troubleshooting an issue ph & ppm are a good place for a new gardener to start

ditto on the wet soil...

The soil in the photo displaying the roots, is seed raising mix, and looks wet from out the packet,

And so in this photo, i have just potted up the plants and yes, again the soil will look wet, thats because i just gave them another water after the transplant as advised to help ease the stress of being repotted, i have had no further damage to the leaves since i started this thread, but everyone here has been very helpful and i appreciate everything, its good to learn and understand other peoples practices , thanks guys
EDIT: these plant WILL stand up(reach up) again within a couple of hours

 

[BigD13]

N: tui branded urea, 42-0-0

So, I went to the Tui website. Here’s what it says: The addition of Tui Urea to your garden provides a fast-acting source of nitrogen to correct deficiencies.

I don’t think that’s what you want. You’re not trying to correct deficiencies, you’re trying to grow weed. You don’t want fast acting nitrogen in that percentage. You risk burning your plants. The urea should be slow release urea with either sulphur or polymer coating. You need to look into a more cannabis specific fertilizer.

Are you in NZ or Australia? They have a sub forum you may find interesting. Also, seek out other local growers to help you out.

Australia

www.420magazine.com

New Zealand

www.420magazine.com

 

[013]

Sulfur nails the rust it’s also a preventative for mites & pm. You must know your way around the garden so kudos on this nice piece of work!

Yes I was just commenting that soil did look wet but had mentioned previously that your roots were nice & white. I believe you have great instincts and are careful to avoid overwatering. I would be afraid to grow from NPK that way personally because I would burn something but I’m a total screw up in the garden anyway!!! Those 2 prong 3 way soil meters aren’t reliable & are best used as double marsh-mellow roasting stick

Again - welcome aboard! Jump in and toss down a journal takes 5 minutes and you are cooking How to make a grow journal

 

[BigD13]

After looking at the Tui website, I would just use their:

TUI ORGANIC GENERAL FERTILISER - BIOGRO CERTIFIED​

Tui Organic General Fertiliser - BioGro Certified

Tui Organic General Fertiliser is BioGro certified and a helping hand for your organic garden – replenishing soil with much-needed nutrients to maximise the natural goodness in the plants you have carefully tended. Crafted from natural inputs, this all-purpose plant food can be used on...

tuigarden.co.nz

You could then use the other Tui products if problems arise.

 

[growinggreen7]

So, I went to the Tui website. Here’s what it says: The addition of Tui Urea to your garden provides a fast-acting source of nitrogen to correct deficiencies.

I don’t think that’s what you want. You’re not trying to correct deficiencies, you’re trying to grow weed. You don’t want fast acting nitrogen in that percentage. You risk burning your plants. The urea should be slow release urea with either sulphur or polymer coating. You need to look into a more cannabis specific fertilizer.

Are you in NZ or Australia? They have a sub forum you may find interesting. Also, seek out other local growers to help you out.

Australia

www.420magazine.com

New Zealand

www.420magazine.com

Nz, ahh ok well maybe thats why the weaker plants are being effected, plus they are young of course, the ones that arnt showing signs.. like in photo #2 of the thread, are boosting

 

[growinggreen7]

Sulfur nails the rust it’s also a preventative for mites & pm. You must know your way around the garden so kudos on this nice piece of work!

Yes I was just commenting that soil did look wet but had mentioned previously that your roots were nice & white. I believe you have great instincts and are careful to avoid overwatering. I would be afraid to grow from NPK that way personally because I would burn something but I’m a total screw up in the garden anyway!!! Those 2 prong 3 way soil meters aren’t reliable & are best used as double marsh-mellow roasting stick

Again - welcome aboard! Jump in and toss down a journal takes 5 minutes and you are cooking How to make a grow journal

Hahahahaha double roasting sticks, nice, yeah they are shit haha.

Yeah if i get the npk mixture right i can call my soil super soil, and dont need to feed the plant for the rest of the veg cycle which is my preference...
It does also eliminate the weak fragile plants, pretty much by killing them, which i dont mind so much, because those would have had shit genes for cloning or feminising, like not being able to handle stronger light in budding, not being able to hold the buds up, subject to stunting easier, so on and so forth