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- #21
Mike80
Well-Known Member
I will experiment next watering and give half the plants watering in that range. Its just that most sites recommend between 6.5-6.8 for soil.
Nute burn, help!
- Thread starter Mike80
- Start date
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
most sites do not... but that is ok, you have just been visiting the wrong sites until you found your way here. 6.3 mathematically is the point where the most nutes are the most mobile in a soil grow. The pH range in soil is 6.2-6.8 and for someone to recommend watering at 6.8 pH is completely ridiculous, especially in a strongly buffered soil like Fox Farm Happy Frog. Almost immediately upon watering the pH will drift upwards, and if you came in at 6.8, every nute you just gave will immediately be out of the recommended pH range and many will be totally immobile.
Please do experiment. When you are taking advice online, believe nothing that you read or see until you have had a chance to verify it for yourself. 90% of what you read is nothing more than opinion or bad information. It doesn't matter who you look at, even seedbanks are putting out stupid information regarding flushing and the starting of plants and there are gobs of YouTube videos putting out garbage information and sadly, many popular websites do the same thing. There is one website that I don't even have to name, I can just mention that every time the "grow expert" is stumped, he mentions tobacco mosaic virus as the possible cause, and many will know exactly who I mean. You just can't trust what you read out there, and even some of the old trusted information from the old masters, related to us in their grow bibles, has been proven to be wrong.
Here at 420Mag, I like to feel pride in the fact that we are on the cutting edge of the latest information on growing this weed, and old myths come here to die. We document what we do here in grow journals that are open to world criticism, yet much of our very current advice is standing up to scrutiny. If I was blowing smoke at you, 10 people would jump on here after I was done and tell you why I was wrong. As you can see, that is not happening. There is a good reason for that. Examine all of your premises... at least a couple of them are wrong.
id no pen though a whole grow no problems just used the ph of water it was 6.6 NO PROBLEMS you can make a few mistakes but not too often ,
Not every bag that comes out of a factory is the exact same ,
Not every bag that comes out of a factory is the exact same ,
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- #24
Mike80
Well-Known Member
Okay thanks for your time. I will start giving them 6.2-6.3 PH water and see how they do.
Gotcha thank you. I need to test my soil
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
No you don't. It was buffered correctly to 6.8 or so at the factory and there is nothing you need to or should do to adjust that soil. Anyone telling you to check the pH of your soil and that this high pH is a problem, has absolutely no idea what they are talking about. Physics doesn't lie, although many people do not understand it. When you water to saturation, you end up with a column of water/soil suspension in that container. Guess what the pH of that entire column HAS TO BE?
Since there is so much more molecular water weight in that column than anything else, the pH of that water determines the pH of that column of water. If you water at 6.3, your container is at 6.3 pH. Only when the soil begins to dry out, does it begin to assume its "base" pH, or the pH it was buffered to at the factory, and the pH of that drying out region begins to drift upwards, towards 6.8 pH. Since we are told to use the pH range of 6.2-6.8 in our soil grows, this system neatly allows you to water at the low end, and then allows the soil to drift the pH towards the upper end, RUNNING THE NUTES THROUGH THE ENTIRE USABLE RANGE, and picking up each nute in its turn as it becomes most mobile in that soil.
It is a beautiful system. My advice is to not jack with it until you know exactly what you are doing, and why. 99% of the people out here writing about soil pH, have no clue what is really going on. Now you do... please don't mess with that good soil.
We recommend two slurries:
slurry – mix 1 part soil to 1 part distilled water (by volume)
Happy Frog
slurry – mix 1 part soil to 1 part distilled water (by volume)
Happy Frog
- A 1:5 slurry – mix 1 part soil to 5 parts distilled water (by volume)
- Thoroughly mix these slurries and allow them to sit for about 15 minutes
- Once the soil particulates has settled, check the pH and TDS of the slurry with a calibrated meter
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
And what exactly does this tell you? Is there some useful information to be gained that one didn't already know by reading the package?
Emilya have you bipolar by any chance ?
“People who always need to be right tend to have fragile egos,” . When they feel as if their self-image has been threatened, they want to make themselves look bigger or smarter, so they blame others. It's a coping mechanism to deal with insecurity,
, i am posting to say they recommend two tests , wind your neck back in .
When you have a whole list of plant of the month beside your name ill tend to listen , out of all my plants the only one that give me crap was letting dry out and feeding at a low ph all the time ( your method) , THE ONLY PLANT going by what you do < even your own plants are so heavy watered the leaves wouldn't lift with your fan , they are water logged , stop harping on , there is more than one way to skin a cat , look at your own , i bet you lose loads of bottom leaves after next up date they will magically disappear
even though you said to me never to remove leaves lol
the ugly plant is doing your method
and the over watered plant you replied to was yours , ( leave me alone ) !!
these are soil and coco i even mixed up feedings and didnt worry about ph to often , you can make a few mistakes ( like your self )
8 weeks so i cant be wrong every time all the time look at them fan leaves blow
“People who always need to be right tend to have fragile egos,” . When they feel as if their self-image has been threatened, they want to make themselves look bigger or smarter, so they blame others. It's a coping mechanism to deal with insecurity,
, i am posting to say they recommend two tests , wind your neck back in .
When you have a whole list of plant of the month beside your name ill tend to listen , out of all my plants the only one that give me crap was letting dry out and feeding at a low ph all the time ( your method) , THE ONLY PLANT going by what you do < even your own plants are so heavy watered the leaves wouldn't lift with your fan , they are water logged , stop harping on , there is more than one way to skin a cat , look at your own , i bet you lose loads of bottom leaves after next up date they will magically disappear
even though you said to me never to remove leaves lolthe ugly plant is doing your method
and the over watered plant you replied to was yours , ( leave me alone ) !!
these are soil and coco i even mixed up feedings and didnt worry about ph to often , you can make a few mistakes ( like your self )
8 weeks so i cant be wrong every time all the time look at them fan leaves blow
Which is it, lol, we or they? And, whichever you settle on, please define the term (as used in context).
Also:
By your own standards, your advice should not be heeded... even by YOU.
look back when you started , the stupid things you asked , when your a noob , then you got member of the month and turned into an a$$hole tbh
When using FFOF, do you add lime? If so, do you add it to the bags with perlite when you mix them, or do you do it differently (example: Vegetation in 2-gallon buckets and then transplanting into 5-gallon buckets for flowering, do you only add the lime when preparing the flowering buckets?).
I've got some lime around here somewhere. I cannot remember if it's agricultural lime or dolomite lime (there is a bit of a difference). It's not "hydrated lime" (calcium hydroxide).
I'm thinking that the pH-buffering ability of the FFOF will be adequate for vegetative in the smaller buckets, but I'm just guessing at this point.
When using FFOF, do you add lime? If so, do you add it to the bags with perlite when you mix them, or do you do it differently (example: Vegetation in 2-gallon buckets and then transplanting into 5-gallon buckets for flowering, do you only add the lime when preparing the flowering buckets?).
I've got some lime around here somewhere. I cannot remember if it's agricultural lime or dolomite lime (there is a bit of a difference). It's not "hydrated lime" (calcium hydroxide).
I'm thinking that the pH-buffering ability of the FFOF will be adequate for vegetative in the smaller buckets, but I'm just guessing at this point.
No one is perfect 100 % of the time
Such as? And what's your point?
I've been an asshole since before I could walk, lol - but, again, what's your point? Are you just attempting to get me to argue with you in hopes that I won't notice that you're ignoring my questions? Because (a) I noticed, and (b) I don't really feel like arguing with someone over the Internet.
they must put in on the bag because you do not have to test lol and they must love wasting ink to print it also 
why print it on there then
why print it on there then- Thread starter
- #34
Mike80
Well-Known Member
Hi guys,
Thanks for the advice everyone but I will be throwing this batch out and startIng again. Been about 74 days now. Sort of gave up on it but let the plants grow. Here are updated pictures.
Thanks for the advice everyone but I will be throwing this batch out and startIng again. Been about 74 days now. Sort of gave up on it but let the plants grow. Here are updated pictures.
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