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- #21
PositiveGrape
New Member
i tugged pretty hard, and they stayed.. so i'm just gonna leave em for the time being.. see what happens..
Nute Burn or Light Burn on New growth
- Thread starter PositiveGrape
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I would suggest not touching the leaves yet. Here's my reasoning--
In my experience, MJ plants will sacrifice lower fans leaves during troubled times either for their nutritional value or because they are easily replaced.
If you discard them before the plant 'is done using them', she will start sacrificing upper leaves.
So IMO until you have 10 or 20 nice fan leaves, let her do her thing.
As for the topping, it looks more like a FIM. But it still should promote branching, and as daTenshi said, you cant clone leaves, only branches.
In my experience, MJ plants will sacrifice lower fans leaves during troubled times either for their nutritional value or because they are easily replaced.
If you discard them before the plant 'is done using them', she will start sacrificing upper leaves.
So IMO until you have 10 or 20 nice fan leaves, let her do her thing.
As for the topping, it looks more like a FIM. But it still should promote branching, and as daTenshi said, you cant clone leaves, only branches.
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- #23
PositiveGrape
New Member
As for the topping, it looks more like a FIM. But it still should promote branching, and as daTenshi said, you cant clone leaves, only branches.
Now just to make sure, thats a great thing right. cause thats gonna have 4 main stems, and i can do some LSI and make this girl really grow out. right?
Nothing wrong with a FIM. The main difference is that a topping will give you two new tops. Pretty much every time. A FIM will give you 2+ depending.
But what it really does is give more light access to the branching sites as well as slow down the vertical growth.
And yes, LST should help your branches start branching.
But what it really does is give more light access to the branching sites as well as slow down the vertical growth.
And yes, LST should help your branches start branching.
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PositiveGrape
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Nothing wrong with a FIM. The main difference is that a topping will give you two new tops. Pretty much every time. A FIM will give you 2+ depending.
now with 4 tops, that means 4 top cola's.. and i knooooooow thats a good thing.. lol i'm so excited to see where this goes..
David Bowman
New Member
I double topped my kids and was also expecting four tops, however the side shoots of the next node down have stretched so much that I now have 6 tops, with no LST as of yet.
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PositiveGrape
New Member
that sounds amazing.. do you have a time lapse pics of this.. i'd love to see what something like that looks like..
David Bowman
New Member
This is as close to time lapse as I can get with the pictures I took. This is a series of pictures of the same kid taken over a 21 day period -
June 7th - 5 days after the first topping -
June 14th - 2 days after the second topping -
June 18th -
June 21st -
June 27th -
Here is an overhead shot of the same kid, taken on June 21st, to better showing top formation, with no LST as of yet -
June 7th - 5 days after the first topping -
June 14th - 2 days after the second topping -
June 18th -
June 21st -
June 27th -
Here is an overhead shot of the same kid, taken on June 21st, to better showing top formation, with no LST as of yet -
Excellent plant!
Very similar to my GDP I grew where I topped, then topped the Y again.
I didn't get the explosive growths as quickly as you so I used a little LST (spreading using some tie's) and ended up with 14 tops in the end. I'm sure your girl there ColoradoHigh is gonna blow my little one away without even using LST. Very Nice sir.
Its so interesting to see the different growth rates and reactions to variables of all these girls on the site.
Very similar to my GDP I grew where I topped, then topped the Y again.
I didn't get the explosive growths as quickly as you so I used a little LST (spreading using some tie's) and ended up with 14 tops in the end. I'm sure your girl there ColoradoHigh is gonna blow my little one away without even using LST. Very Nice sir.
Its so interesting to see the different growth rates and reactions to variables of all these girls on the site.
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- #30
PositiveGrape
New Member
you guys are all amazing.. i'm so happy i found this. it has made this such a joyful experience, other then being tortured and worried i'm gonna eff something up. not to mention i've learned ssssooooooo much.. and spimp is right, ColoradoHigh those plants are incredible.. i'm not to sure whats gonna happy with my top/tops.. i'm so interested to see where they grow tooooo
daTenshi
Well-Known Member
Here is an overhead shot of the same kid, taken on June 21st, to better showing top formation, with no LST as of yet -
Looking awesome!
David Bowman
New Member
Thanks so much Spimp! I really appreciate that! A little sidenote, the picture taken on June 18th was the only one taken during the one hour of light during the middle of lights off. Since I'm running an inverted light schedule for the first time, I'm awake during that one hour of light and I've noticed that the kids are super groggy each and every time. At first I thought they were stressing out over something that I had done or didn't do and I got a bit concerned, but after a few days, I realized that they were really resenting being woken up during a sound sleep. 
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- #33
PositiveGrape
New Member
Hey guys i'm gonna feed my little girl today with the EJ Rainbow mix.. it calls for 2-4 tbls per gallon. I'm in a 3 gal pot and i want to use 1/3 strength. so 1/3 of 4 tbls is 1.32 tbls TIMES a 3 gal pot = 3.96 tbls.. Now i was going to mix this into a half gallon of water. I have a 4 way meter (bought this and rootech clone gel for $10 bucks!!! SCORE) and it says my soil is very dry, and low nutes.. SHOULD I FOLLOW THIS 4 WAY??
Also does it sound like i have this calculated correctly? it's alittle confusing and i certainly don't want to have nute burn.
any help is amazing if you need some more info lemme know.. i've got some other post out there regarding deformed leaves and a failed top/fim job.. oh the learning curve.. lolol thanks again for the help..
Also does it sound like i have this calculated correctly? it's alittle confusing and i certainly don't want to have nute burn.
any help is amazing if you need some more info lemme know.. i've got some other post out there regarding deformed leaves and a failed top/fim job.. oh the learning curve.. lolol thanks again for the help..
Your pot size is not a factor in how strong to mix the nutrients.
If it calls for 2-4 Tablespoons per gallon and you want to feed 1/3rd, Mix 1 tablespoon per gallon. Doesn't matter if your pot size is 1 gallon or 30.
If it calls for 2-4 Tablespoons per gallon and you want to feed 1/3rd, Mix 1 tablespoon per gallon. Doesn't matter if your pot size is 1 gallon or 30.
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- #35
PositiveGrape
New Member
ok so i use the amount of water i'm feeding to determine nutes, NOT SOIL AMOUNT?? i was about to really screw up.. man you guys rock.. so if i'm feeding a 1/2 gallon of water.. then it's half of 1.32 tbls. so like 2/3's of tablespoon (.66). WOW THATS SO DIFFERENT. you guys rock.. i also have some questions about deformed leaves.. can you please help there too..
Newbie Questions - Why do my leaves look like this?
thanks again..
Newbie Questions - Why do my leaves look like this?
thanks again..
I took a quick glance and it looks like over watering/heat stess maybe. Can you post a pic here under whiter light so we can see the color better?
As for watering, you are making it more complicated than it is. Follow me here...
Your instructions say 3 tbls (picking the middle) per gallon. That's full strength.
You want to feed 1/3rd that. That means 1 tbls spoon per gallon is what you mix.
If your mixing container is 1/2 a gallon, you would mix 1/2 a tablespoon into that to get 1/3rd strength.
The amount of liquid you are feeding is irrelevant. The size container is irrelevant. Or else people growing in soil (pretty big container) would need 500 tablespoons+++ of ferts! 
Mix your nutrients to what ever strength you want.
Water til the planter is wet and starts to runoff slightly. Discard the extra mix. Its that easy.
The most important thing about watering is to let them dry out really really good before watering again. If you check your plants several times a day like me, It's not the end of the world to let them get dry enough to start to wilt. (better to test this in veg than flower) Feel how light the pot is? That's how light it should be every time you water.
I know it is hard to do, but I promise they will perk right up in 20 mins if this happens.
Over watering cause the roots to do a lot of bad stuff like roots swell and crack, get waterlogged, and can actually prune up the main root and kill the whole plant.
As for watering, you are making it more complicated than it is.
Follow me here...Your instructions say 3 tbls (picking the middle) per gallon. That's full strength.
You want to feed 1/3rd that. That means 1 tbls spoon per gallon is what you mix.
If your mixing container is 1/2 a gallon, you would mix 1/2 a tablespoon into that to get 1/3rd strength.
The amount of liquid you are feeding is irrelevant. The size container is irrelevant. Or else people growing in soil (pretty big container
) would need 500 tablespoons+++ of ferts! Mix your nutrients to what ever strength you want.
Water til the planter is wet and starts to runoff slightly. Discard the extra mix. Its that easy.
The most important thing about watering is to let them dry out really really good before watering again. If you check your plants several times a day like me, It's not the end of the world to let them get dry enough to start to wilt. (better to test this in veg than flower) Feel how light the pot is? That's how light it should be every time you water.
I know it is hard to do, but I promise they will perk right up in 20 mins if this happens.
Over watering cause the roots to do a lot of bad stuff like roots swell and crack, get waterlogged, and can actually prune up the main root and kill the whole plant.
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- #37
PositiveGrape
New Member
nute level
lumins
moister of soil.
ph of soil
stand by of pics under white light.. i dont' think it's over water cause it's been since last saturday over 7 days with water. might be to much heat. so the deformed leaves are normal?
Slightly deformed leaves are not a deal breaker by any means.
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- #39
PositiveGrape
New Member
UPDATE:
Does she look normal. Color wise at least. i know the leaves are deformed.. haven't got a straight answer on on why or if it's bad..
also i got a gauge so i figured out it's 81 with lights on and 35% humidity.. i'm trying to add humidity into the air but it's not working real well. anyways heres the pics with the plant color, from the top, and the new correctly done top.
any comments are very welcomed.. thanks guys..
Does she look normal. Color wise at least. i know the leaves are deformed.. haven't got a straight answer on on why or if it's bad..
also i got a gauge so i figured out it's 81 with lights on and 35% humidity.. i'm trying to add humidity into the air but it's not working real well. anyways heres the pics with the plant color, from the top, and the new correctly done top.
any comments are very welcomed.. thanks guys..
Since your other questions were already answered, I'll take this one
Now those meters are not the best to use due to their lower accuracy. The best meters are the digital types. However, I use a similar meter (3 way testing ability for light, PH and moisture), and it's been working alright for me.
I wouldn't personally trust the meter at all when it's telling you about nutes. I'd trust my own nute feedings to tell me when my plants need to be fed. Using the meter over time to test for fertility, and comparing it to your own factual knowledge of when you KNOW it's time to feed nutes, and comparing it to what the meter says right after you've fed nutes will give you a baseline idea of how accurate that portion is.
As for the light meter, it seems to be a very loose guideline to basically use once when setting everything up. I really don't use my light testing function unless it's for novelty purposes.
With that being said, the moisture and PH functions are the most helpful for me. I would wait until I thought it was time to water because the top of the soil was dry, then check with the meter, and the meter will show it's still a little early too water still. So that's been really helpful.
And obviously the PH function lets you test the PH of your water, nutes, and soil. To get the best baseline reading for the PH meter, I suggest getting a baseline by testing distilled and deionized water, which should have a completely neutral PH of 7. Then comparing that reading to what the meter says. From there you'll have a decent idea if your meter is fairly accurate, if it reads a little high, or if it reads a little low. To keep the meter reading fairly accurately, I've found it helps to clean the probes after every use, and between uses (like measuring soil, then clean, then measure water/nutes so you know how to adjust the PH)
Now onto leaves... Did those deformities occur at the site of your failed FIM attempt? If so, then I'd say it's completely normal, the same exact thing happened to both of my plants after I failed a FIM.
You can see my failed FIM in my grow journal in my signature, my deformed leaves start at the bottom of page 1, and then there's a better picture near the top of page 2.
