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Optimal PH and PPM from seed/clone: Harvest?

McCdive

Well-Known Member
Very cool propagator, Steve. :)
 

BuddroGreen

New Member
420Steve your rock wool cubes are too wet for those little seedlings, even the bigger one. You just want the rock wool cube moist/damp not sitting in non-aerated water until they grow roots, you want the roots to search out for water. Once they have roots you can spray the roots and rock wool down every day with pH'd water, and leave some water in the clone dome bottom channels for the roots to lay in (lightly water every day) until you're ready to move into hydro set-up.

Also, you can get a seedling heating mat for underneath your clone dome to help bring temp up to 72-78f & 65%-80% RH (relative humidity) where propagation works best.
 

420Steve

New Member
420Steve you're rock wool cubes are too wet for those little seedlings, even the bigger one. You just want the rockwool cube moist/damp not sitting in non-aerated water until they grow roots, you want the roots to search out for water. Once they have roots you can spray the roots and rock wool down every day with pH'd water, and leave some water in the clone dome bottom channels for the roots to lay in (lightly water every day) until you're ready to move into hydro set-up.

Also, you can get a seedling heating mat for underneath your clone dome to help bring temp up to 72-78f & 65%-80% RH (relative humidity) where propagation works best.
Hey BuddroGreen, i have tried to bring the temp up and it was way to hot for me let alone the seedlings i left it for 2 hours and one of the big seedlings leaf was getting crispy, i am finding it so difficult to maintain that temp and RH i have no idea what to do i feel like i have already caused to much damage for these seeds.

I will let the rockwall cubes dry out abit more to increase root growth, i need help with the seedling stage i need a in depth guide how to do it, time frame, when to add root nutes, how often to water ect ect
 

McCdive

Well-Known Member
Steve, go to the grow room tab at the top of the page and check out "how to grow marijuana" and FAQs. Check around in there, As always, You Tube has a wealth of info on seedlings! It's damn hard ti kill a seed if you stick to light, water & warmth. Try a small heating pad that is not on a timer under you propagator for constant temps. You can shim the bottom of the tray so it's off the pad till you get the temps you're looking for. Just a thought. Worked for me. For RH, I put a glass of water in it with a small aquarium pump and stone in it. simple :)
 

BuddroGreen

New Member
OK 420Steve, keep the clone dome at room temp, keep the air vent on top closed...this will help build up humidity & warmth (remove dome daily, waving it creating air movement over seedlings 15-20 seconds when spraying water). Drain the water out and only have the rock wool cubes moist, the seedling with roots can have it's root in a channel on bottom of clone dome with a little pH'd water keeping it moist.

The seedlings without roots make them search for water by only keeping rock wool moist (lightly moist), also if you have one or can get one the bottom I have on my clone dome has horizontal channels in it and I keep the rock wool cubes on top of them so air can get under rock wool, this type of bottom tray helps.

Don't give them nutrients until you have 3"-6" roots and the seedlings are a little taller and stronger. (or really light ppm if they start showing deficiencies when roots start to emerge)
 

420Steve

New Member
Guys this advice is key to my success i think keeping the rockwool moist and no water at the bottom is a good shout and misting them every now and thenwill try this from now on, keep the advice coming boys :goodjob:
 

Papageno

Well-Known Member
Sorry been away but those are way too damp. The larger one actually would be fine transferred at that point but it is fine to wait for roots.

The roots need oxygen so if they can't get any it is harder for them. The point of a dome is that you can allow the medium to become more dry then it could get without. The dome allows for the plant to get moisture through the air so you can dry out the medium more. That doesn't mean dry... but it can aid you in the early stages of growth by keeping the root zone moist and full of oxygen. Stagnant water kills roots. Luckily there is a lot of slack in this rope. But weed grows in ditches man.
 

epsilon

New Member
Hey guys, good stuff here, going to check out your journal vi. I wish more people would read up on things before jumping in, would save so much headache. Lol, speaking from experience of course, in the aquarium hobby... thankfully I learned my lessons there! Been reading everything I can get my hands on for about the last month, don't expect to start anything (primarily due to funds and location, want to stay legal) for at least another 3-4 months. I personally like hydro because it's similar to the saltwater hobby in technique and I can see the possibilities of automation once I get a feel for how things go. I am a huge diyer. I'll prob set out to build my own leds and controller eventually. Of course all in phases...
 

Thephats

New Member
LOL

There are a lot of hydro guys who say it is easy as hell. I think it is... once you know what you are doing, but the ramp up is much steeper. You have to learn everything you need to grow in soil plus a bunch of stuff you need for hydro all at once. I think everyone should start in soil then transition to hydro. First off it is way cheaper to start because half the equipment is the same. You need vent fans and lights regardless. But if you start in soil you just get a fabric pot and some stuff for a soil blend. You can do your first couple of runs with a basic nutrient line or even just miracle grow like we did in the 80's, while learning about all the fun stuff like how to brew a good microbial tea. Once you know how the plant life cycle is and what nute burn looks like then you can start on Hydro. In soil it is hard to screw things up but you have added problems related to pests. In hyrdo you wont have near the pest problems but you can loose the whole batch in a day if something gets outta whack and you are not there. It is easy to underfeed in hydro and near impossible in a decent soil mix.

So there is a lot to learn and I think soil is the way to go in the beginning. Once you have that 80% down you can try learning the 20% extra that is hydro. All you really need to learn about hydro that isn't something you learn in soil is nutrient regimen. But everything else that you must learn can be done with less risk and easier in soil...except for pests.

One thing more to note.

Hydro is good when you have limited space. You can use a much smaller res then a soil pot for the same size plant. But most industrial huge for profit growers like the warehouse growers in Colorado are doing it in soil. If you are doing a perpetual grow there is no point in doing hydro. But if you are doing 1 run at a time like most of us home growers then Hydro is the way to go. The only real way to run perpetual is to have a bunch of independent bubble buckets, Hempy buckets, or soil. Since the nute profile changes weekly if you want to run a multi-plant hydro system they should be the same strain and age for best results. However if you want to run many strains you need to run them separately. And hauling a nicer hydro system than a bubble Bucket back and forth from a veg room to a bloom room is just the worst if even possible. So large scale perpetual grow ops do soil.
 
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