pH Down Doesn't Actually Work?

Am I correct in thinking there are stronger alternative pH down solutions? And could that help with water that climbs back to 8.5 pH?

And if true, an RO system vs pH down alternatives, would one be better for someone growing a few plants at a time?

Onto sciency stuffs -

I'm now getting the idea that there are three possible things that might be causing my changes in pH:

  1. Tap water with high base pH
  2. Nutrient elements interacting with hydrogen molecules in water
  3. CEC
I'm growing in Canna Coco that comes pre-buffered at 600 EC and near pH neutral, so when I first planted seeds I rinsed with plain old water down to 400 EC cause the seed has the nutes it needs already then later started feeding low EC/PPM nutes with 6.3 pH after day 6 following a nute schedule.

This is what I'm reading about buffering/watering CEC in coco and @TorturedSoul I think you were saying this:

"As the process commences, a high concentration of Ca molecules attaches to the media—as each Ca++ molecule is adsorbed, two molecules of K+ or Na+ are released because the Ca has a double-plus charge and K and Na are single-plus charges.

In the beginning, the exchange goes very quickly, but as the exchange continues, the concentration of the K and Na molecules released into the solution slows the exchange down and it will eventually come into equilibrium. The buffering process can be done in 10-15 minutes—the point at which the exchange slows down enough that the greater exchange is not worth the wait."

So the exchange comes into equilibrium and there's a higher overall concentration of Ca++? Buuuut that can't be the cause of the increase in pH runoff..... Cal/Mag water test pH went down....... or am I missing something?

Starting Tap Water w/ Cal/Mag: 8.5 pH
24hrs - 8.1 pH
48hrs - 8.0 pH

But what I thought was interesting was that the final nute solution test increased in pH, possibly because how nutrient elements interact with hydrogen over time? And this solution also includes elements like K which CEC also releases when Ca is added.

Starting Tap Water w/ Completed Nute Solution: 6.9 pH
24hrs - 7.5 pH
48hrs - 7.6 pH
72hrs - 7.7 pH

Again, the completed nute solution could have risen in pH because the tap water pH went up, but I did one more test today and it only went up 0.1, unlike the 0.6 pH increase in the very first 24hrs, indicating it could be close to it's final pH. It's still possible it could slowly climb back to the tap water's original pH of 8.5 or even higher I'm guessing.

I'm using the General Hydroponics Flora Series, mixed thoroughly in the correct order (Silica, Cal/Mag, Micro, Gro, Bloom, Diamond Nectar, Wetting Agent and lastly RapidStart).

The wetting agent is Coco-Wet aaaaaand ya... I just read on the bottle it's for foliar feeds.... whoops... could that be causing problems? It is 90% Modified Cocodiethanolamide and 10% inert constituents considered ineffective as an adjuvant o_O

Anyway, when I first started feeding the runoff pH was pretty close or the same as the water put in. But over the course of about a week or so the runoff pH started going up higher than the water I was putting in. So I'm almost 100% certain something is happening in the CEC like increased concentrations of nutes to water AND/OR it's an accumulation/buffering affect of my 8.5 pH tap water slowly rising back to it's original pH over time.

I have an idea though...... if I buy an RO system and soak the coco in it for like a week or something (even though it's already pre-buffered, I don't actually know the starting pH of the medium) would that keep the CEC more or less manageable? I would use RO water of course while feeding... and I think if I just keep watering every 10 hours or so, I would be able to flush the old nutes out of the medium before they start mixing/reacting and up the pH again.

What do you think?
 
I think you are trying to overthink this. Use good water like distilled or reverse osmosis because obviously you have some issues with your tap water. Next, be sure you rinse your Coco well before use. Finally, don't worry about the pH of your runoff or the PPM of your runoff unless your plant is showing problems. If you use good water, rinse your Coco before use and pH your nutrient Solutions when feeding your plant all should be perfect no matter what your runoff pH or PPM reads.
 
Any opinions on a 3 stage RO Buddie or 4 stage with DI to get close to 0 TDS/PPM ?

Tap water is 168ish PPM.
Any of them should do the job. Myself, I do prefer the di units. 1st filter will be a sediment filter, then a carbon filter, then a tighter carbon filter followed by the RO membrane filter followed by the di filter. That is a 5 stage. 4 stage will skip the sediment or 1 of the carbon filters.
 
Any of them should do the job. Myself, I do prefer the di units. 1st filter will be a sediment filter, then a carbon filter, then a tighter carbon filter followed by the RO membrane filter followed by the di filter. That is a 5 stage. 4 stage will skip the sediment or 1 of the carbon filters.

Thinking if the DI unit pumps out cleaner water with less waste water it's a good buy?
 
BTW, from my college chemistry days, always always always add the acid to water rather than the other way around. Adding water to acid will likely boil out the water from the heat released in the reaction and splash, or it may even explode in your face. Be advised... add acid to water, and not water to acid.
 
BTW, from my college chemistry days, always always always add the acid to water rather than the other way around. Adding water to acid will likely boil out the water from the heat released in the reaction and splash, or it may even explode in your face. Be advised... add acid to water, and not water to acid.
Only needed to be done with concentrated acids though. Otherwise we would have to drain our fish tanks and put the acid in the tank, then replace the fish and the water lol.
 
Plants and I thank you. 4 stage w/ DI coming soon :)
Excellent! You will love knowing that the water problem will simply be out of the equation. That really helps narrow things down with any future when/if any plant issues arise.
 
Only needed to be done with concentrated acids though. Otherwise we would have to drain our fish tanks and put the acid in the tank, then replace the fish and the water lol.

I have no idea what you are saying here. Adding acid to a fish tank is fine. That is adding acid to water... not water to acid. Your draining and filling method would add water (and fish) to concentrated acid. Not good. Adding water to acidic water is not an issue if you are topping up your fish tank. I would think that would be obvious. Its just water with a lower pH. Unless your fish tank is full of acid? Not sure why you are clarifying my post here.
 
I have no idea what you are saying here. Adding acid to a fish tank is fine. That is adding acid to water... not water to acid. Your draining and filling method would add water (and fish) to concentrated acid. Not good. Adding water to acidic water is not an issue if you are topping up your fish tank. I would think that would be obvious. Its just water with a lower pH. Unless your fish tank is full of acid? Not sure why you are clarifying my post here.
You are so right LOL. I spoke backwards. None the less what I was getting at was unless you were using concentrated acids I've never seen it be an issue adding water to lower concentrated acids. I have seen reactions adding water to strong, concentrated acids but never acids that are commonly bought. I have seen some very cool but very dangerous reactions with nitric acid! That can be a very dangerous acid to fool with. Just like Lye (sodium hydroxide) is a very dangerous base.
 
You are so right LOL.

Yes he is; I received the same warning in high school - along with a little demonstration.

It's not really comparable for several reasons, but if it helps, you can imagine pouring water into a fryer full of hot oil (do not do this!). The resulting "reaction" will often cause mayhem - and it's not the water that comes spewing out. Add the dangerous to the "not dangerous" not the reverse.
 
Hey all,

I'm growing in coco for my first grow, and I'm now discovering and reading about coco having issues with Cal/Mag due to the Cation Exchange Capacity, but........

I decided to do a simple experiment in regards to pH'd water because I noticed runoff pH was increasing and then capping at 6.5 - 6.6. This isn't ideal since plant nutrients are absorbed at different pH levels, and I'm noticing stunted plant growth after ruling out as many stunting factors as I possibly could.

Test group:
Tap Water (168 EC, 81 PPM)
Tap Water w/ pH Down
Tap Water w/ Cal/Mag
Tap Water w/ Flora Mirco Solution
Tap Water w/ completed flora series nutes, rooting, silica and wetting agent solution suitable for a late veg watering (no pH up/down added).

I tested the pH levels over a 48hr period. pH meter was re-calibrated in pH calibration solution before test started. Temperature of 68-70 F during each test, not enough to change the pH more than .01 pH.

Starting Tap Water: 8.0 pH
24hrs - 8.3 - 8.4 pH
48hrs - 8.5 pH

Starting Tap Water w/ pH Down: 6.4 pH
24hrs - 7.3 - 7.4 pH
48hrs - 7.7 pH

Starting Tap Water w/ Cal/Mag: 8.5 pH
24hrs - 8.1 pH
48hrs - 8.0 pH

Starting Tap Water w/ Flora Micro Solution: 8.0 pH
24hrs - 8.2 pH
48hrs - 8.1 pH

Starting Tap Water w/ Completed Nute Solution: 6.9 pH
24hrs - 7.5 pH
48hrs - 7.6 pH

One could argue that the tap water with pH down went up because the tap water pH went up, but the pH'd down water increased 1 pH in 24hrs compared to the tap water w/o pH down increasing 0.4 pH in 24hrs.

So to remedy this in a coco grow, (or hydroponic) one would want to constantly water to runoff 2-3x daily with correct pH, regardless of growth stage, just to keep the pH in check. But in addition to this, grows in soil would be subject to the increase in pH in pH'd down water as well.

Do you agree?

My first grow as well, also coco, found that its best to fill 4-1 gal jugs with tap water and store them in my grow tent allowing the chlorine to evaporate and water to stay @ a comfortable temp. I mix my nutrients and PH my water every time I water, between 2-3 days and the grow has went well.

I didn't chance storing pre-mixed water because of the problem you encountered and also if you wan't to modify your blend for any reason your not pouring money down the drain.
 
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