Phantom’s RDWC Cherry Cookies Grow Journal

Drop in distilled water until they crack, throw ‘em in a paper towel soaked with the water they were in, put inside a sandwich baggy that I try to get vertical but a min. of 45Deg angle (I find it helps with getting a straight taproot since the seed has a more up down orientation), once a taproot shows I plant them anywhere from an inch to 1/2” deep depending on how long the root is, cover with soil, and then water about 5ml once a day until she sprouts. I never seem to have issues with helmets because of my depth. I had some bad luck this go around sprouting seeds but I think it was more the seeds than me. Out of the 12 I’ve germinated I have 8 going. Two failed to crack, one cracked but never grew a root, one had a nub of a taproot and stopped growing. Three out of the 4 were freebies. I haven’t dosed the soaking water with kelp or GA3, but I do give some kelp (Sea-K) in with their first watering after they sprout above ground as a first feeding so to speak. The second watering they are getting MC already, no need to screw around and waste time waiting. I remember seeing the GA3 used in the one thread where the guy was spouting 30-40yr old seeds.
 
Drop in distilled water until they crack, throw ‘em in a paper towel soaked with the water they were in, put inside a sandwich baggy that I try to get vertical but a min. of 45Deg angle (I find it helps with getting a straight taproot since the seed has a more up down orientation), once a taproot shows I plant them anywhere from an inch to 1/2” deep depending on how long the root is, cover with soil, and then water about 5ml once a day until she sprouts. I never seem to have issues with helmets because of my depth. I had some bad luck this go around sprouting seeds but I think it was more the seeds than me. Out of the 12 I’ve germinated I have 8 going. Two failed to crack, one cracked but never grew a root, one had a nub of a taproot and stopped growing. Three out of the 4 were freebies. I haven’t dosed the soaking water with kelp or GA3, but I do give some kelp (Sea-K) in with their first watering after they sprout above ground as a first feeding so to speak. The second watering they are getting MC already, no need to screw around and waste time waiting. I remember seeing the GA3 used in the one thread where the guy was spouting 30-40yr old seeds.
Thanks for the info. How long until they crack in the distilled water? Do you take them out if not cracked, say within 48 hours?
 
Jeeez @The Phantom, that quite the process.... I’m just a drop it in a shot glass of RO keep trying to “tap” sink every now and then, usually by 12 they’ll have sunk. Cracked or not into paper towel and in a ziplock sealed 75% on top of the internet router. Usually by the next day I have Taproots
 
Tonight’s readings,
pH 5.9 - static
EC 1.56 - falling
Water Level - falling
Sounds like I need to feed the girls at the next top off.

Here’s tonight’s photo. It looks like a bear went through the blueberry patch. I went and laid down what branches I could to let some of the center under growth hit the light for a minute or so before the plants fix themselves.
497D0E1B-508F-48F7-BA07-D38940464C71.jpeg
 
Tonight’s readings,
pH 5.9 - static
EC 1.56 - falling
Water Level - falling
Sounds like I need to feed the girls at the next top off.

Here’s tonight’s photo. It looks like a bear went through the blueberry patch. I went and laid down what branches I could to let some of the center under growth hit the light for a minute or so before the plants fix themselves.
497D0E1B-508F-48F7-BA07-D38940464C71.jpeg
Looking good and good tip, I keep that in mind for when mine gets to that point.
 
This morning’s readings,
pH 5.9 - static
EC 1.56 - static
Water Level - falling (down around 5-6 gallons)
All is good, I was too slow this morning to catch the girls before lights off but here is a photo from last night after pushing down the branches (3-4 hours after doing it). I’m sure this morning they were back to normal.
34FBDF37-4BE2-4898-A97F-41372E9A6F45.jpeg
 
Looking good @The Phantom. I love how you get local wood for smoking. How were the ribs???

It reminded me to ask my dad and I got a massive bag of black cherry wood. They are making a massive table and had tons of scraps. Should last me through winter but I smoke a lot of ribs and weed :lot-o-toke:
 
Are you going to put any type of support or Trellis above them?
I think I will use string or yo-yos to support whatever branch I keep after trimming them up once the stretch is over. I plan on trimming two plants and leaving two plants but will pluck the small/lower bud sites off to see if there’s any difference. I’ll probably only will have 3-5 main colas per plant once I’m done.

I’m figuring out a pvc scrog setup for each grow tote that is attached to the lid and adjustable for the next grow. This way I can remove each one separately without any issues.

How were the ribs???
The ribs were great, although not really my style of rib. I was catering to my friends tastes, one rack was a sweet and rich maple bourbon sauce and the other was a honey habanero and sriracha sauce. They were friggen delicious but I prefer more of a traditional dry rub style rib and a rich molasses style sauce on the side, of I feel like it.


I’ve also failed to mention that starting at the flip I set one of two lights to run ir and uv through to harvest. The other set I’m running the ir now and the uv will be turned on the last 3-4 weeks of the grow, as suggested to me by @multiVortex in the UV and IR lighting thread.
I’m still convinced there probably won’t be much difference or any difference from not running them, just based on the limited number of diodes each have on a board, 8 each for both ir and uv. I do have 16 far red (660nm) that run full time on the boards.
 
So awesome to see you doing all these test and to find what works best / what you like. When can I get you to run a 600w or 1000w HPS in your 4 x 4 in flower for a test? :D:yahoo:

Winter time is awesome for those cold/cool nights, extra heat =)
 
Maybe sooner than you think. How much would it cost to light a 15’x5’ SOG setup? It would be part of my sun room, I think is actually 25-28’x8’ but I need room on one side to access my backyard door and room around the other 3 sides for tending to the plants. New or used fixtures and the cost of bulbs would be nice, doesn’t need to be vented my ceiling height is about 10-12 and it should be cool enough in the fall/winter or anything fancy by any means.
 
I think I will use string or yo-yos to support whatever branch I keep after trimming them up once the stretch is over. I plan on trimming two plants and leaving two plants but will pluck the small/lower bud sites off to see if there’s any difference. I’ll probably only will have 3-5 main colas per plant once I’m done.

I’m figuring out a pvc scrog setup for each grow tote that is attached to the lid and adjustable for the next grow. This way I can remove each one separately without any issues.


The ribs were great, although not really my style of rib. I was catering to my friends tastes, one rack was a sweet and rich maple bourbon sauce and the other was a honey habanero and sriracha sauce. They were friggen delicious but I prefer more of a traditional dry rub style rib and a rich molasses style sauce on the side, of I feel like it.


I’ve also failed to mention that starting at the flip I set one of two lights to run ir and uv through to harvest. The other set I’m running the ir now and the uv will be turned on the last 3-4 weeks of the grow, as suggested to me by @multiVortex in the UV and IR lighting thread.
I’m still convinced there probably won’t be much difference or any difference from not running them, just based on the limited number of diodes each have on a board, 8 each for both ir and uv. I do have 16 far red (660nm) that run full time on the boards.


UVB is what knocks it up a few %. Diodes are going to (typically) be UVA.

A might a tick, but B is where it’s at.

Just like Texas Pepper Jelly is also where it’s at. Nom nom nom.
 
You would be correct, I think I’m running LG UVA 395nm diodes. So what’s the verdict, keep running them how I have them to see if there’s any difference or turn them all on and forget about testing since the UVA isn’t as good as UVB where you would need to worry about limiting exposure to the end of the grow?
 
It’s not going to hurt anything to keep running as you are. The absolute worst thing that can happen is you see how much of a difference it makes to you, and then you’ll know for sure.

Many lights include a little UVA bump, so I wouldn’t say it’s worthless by any means. To me it’s more akin to one of those “every little bit helps” kind of things, vice something much further up the scale like environment or genetics, if that makes sense. Something worth doing, but not an “absolute must or you bust your grow” thing.
 
After doing a ton more LED light research, spectrums, and supplemental lighting, I will be turning off the Far-Red/IR (730nm) lights after the stretch is over on the one board I have not turned the UVA on. The other board will continue with both on for the rest of the grow as planned.

You may have told me this already in the other thread but the Far-Red/IR wave lengths (700nm+) is really only beneficial during preflowering. So I will run the one set of boards as recommended Far-Red/IR during preflowering and UV during the final weeks of harvest.
 
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