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Welcome back, Stone!Hey Azi, thought I'd come by for a re read of all this. Spring will be here asap, not soon enough for me! Got my Jadam book and your journal to guide me. Going to be a fun season!
Get your buckets ready! Even if all you do is a single bucket of mostly dandelion, you'll be able to get a feel for the process and see how well the plants respond.I will be tagging along for the ride if that’s ok. So interested in JADAM.
Come on Spring!
I should have an adequate supply of leaf mold by springtime too. Have several piles of leaves and grass clippings maturing. Also have a worm bed started. Just getting my feet wet in it all.Get your buckets ready! Even if all you do is a single bucket of mostly dandelion, you'll be able to get a feel for the process and see how well the plants respond.
I'm looking at the small more frequently made or added to batches too.Welcome back, Stone!
Not soon enough for me either. I'm looking forward to spring too. I've got my plan ready to go. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, the 20 gallon single barrel approach was way overkill for my needs, so this year I'm going to go with much smaller containers (two, 5 gallon buckets for me). One for veg nutes and the other for flower. And a weekly production of a much smaller quantity of the microbe solution.
Since you dilute the fertilizer extract by 20-30 times with water and the microbe solution by 10 times, a little goes a long way. Plus you can add to the existing ferment whenever you have more material.
Once I get the buckets going I'll repost the relevant lines from the tables at the beginning of the thread to highlight why I'm choosing the plants I am in the amounts I'm using and compare them to both dandelion and fish amino acid. I do think the plants you choose are important if using it as your main source of nutes, which I will be doing.
Probably a lot less important if you're mainly using compost and mulches like @Bode does.
It really makes so much sense to me. I didn't use most of what I produced and the bigger container was too heavy to move, and took longer sticks to mix it up and then, at the end of the season I just had more than I needed to deal with.I'm looking at the small more frequently made or added to batches too.
If your FAA is truly 3-1-1, then you might be low on K. I would prefer something like 3-1-4Most of the information I've researched for FAA tout it as a great source of nitrogen for plants. I saw a commercial product that seems to be the same type of process as I use, and listed it as 31 for NPK. Commercial version
If that's true for what I produce, does that nitrogen level make sense when compared to the P and K listed in the tables I listed (and you quoted from)? The FAA is a cold process as opposed to those producing fish meals and emulsions that cook out some of the highly beneficial properties for use in other products. With FAA or fish hydrolysate, a cold process is used which preserves all of the fish oils and other things.
That would be comfrey, which, interestingly enough, is lower in just about everything else.If your FAA is truly 3-1-1, then you might be low on K. I would prefer something like 3-1-4
What in your toolbox has mostly K?
*** Cloning Experiment ***
Today I'm going to start a cloning experiment since my current round failed miserably. My usual process is to cut the clones, remove most of the foliage, scrape them, dip them in aloe, and stick them in my dampened seed starting mix. I leave them under a misted dome for three days, then gradually harden them off for another three, and then keep them open to the air until they root, typically in 15-20 days.
But this round, due to low humidity and a proximate fan in my cabinet, they all dried out before they could root. So, I want to come up with a cloning process that I can use in the low humidity conditions we usually get around these parts during the winter season. Water based cloning systems are supposed to not need a dome since there is ample moisture for the cuttings from the water bath below. The challenge is you usually need to keep the water temps low since it's easy to get water borne root pathogens breeding in warm, stagnant water, but for me clones root best above 75*F.
In @Virgin Ground 's current thread she highlighted her Coffee Can Cloner set up, and I'll include a version of it in mine.
My setup will be pretty simple. I'll adapt my popsicle cloner and fill each of four tubes with a different mix. I'll test: 1) water only, 2) sand only, 3) sand and leaf mold, and 4) sand and worm castings. The mixes will be equal parts of each.
I'll set the popsicle cloner in a shallow water bath in an outer container on a heat mat and use the wicking capabilities of the sand to keep the mediums damp. I have a hempy hole in my outer container so the water bath level should be at a fairly consistent height.
Cuttings in the various sand mixtures will be set so the bottom of the cut remains above the water line. For the water only cut, it will rest on the bottom of the container in the water.
For the water bath, I'll use rain water mixed with a combination of three FPJ's that are supposed to have good rooting hormones contained in them (aloe, seaweed, and willow) along with some worm casting extract to hopefully keep root rot nasties at bay since I'm going to keep the setup on a heat mat, probably in the mid to high 70*'s F. Maybe low 80*'s.
I'll probably clean out the outer container every 2-3 days and replace with fresh solution.
I'll prepare the cuttings in my usual way, trimming most of the foliage off, scraping the bottom inch or so on one side and dipping them in fresh aloe. Assuming I get roots on all, I'll compare things like number days to root, robustness of roots and how well they transplant on.
The cloning area is off to the side of the veg box in my cabinet. There is no light directly above but the area does get ambient light from the rest of the box.
Hopefully with this method I will eliminate some of the low seasonal humidity issues. We'll see.